What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Nashely

had some concrete from a renovation to dispose of - took to local dump and started throwing it in dumpster - about 1/2 way done and attendant says I must take it to the rock pile - had to drive 3/4 mile through a "2 days of rain" soaked landfill strip to the rock pile and get rid of the rest - it was like driving through 10,000 lactose intolerant baby diapers -

found a harbor freight random orbital high rpm polisher - this is my 2000 5 speed post baby diaper clean off love
 
This barely warrants any notice but since it's all I've done this past weekend, I'll post it. The drain hose was falling off and disappearing from my shorty valve so i did a trade and got a long nipple version that fits a hose clamp better. I also take some sick pleasure in posting this because there are always people who seem to think a Fumoto valve is some sort of safety risk. The front is on a jack only because my oil jug was extra-tall. Onward...
 

Attachments

  • FUassy.jpg
    FUassy.jpg
    143.3 KB · Views: 276
  • FUpan.jpg
    FUpan.jpg
    101.3 KB · Views: 278
  • FUskid.jpg
    FUskid.jpg
    131.4 KB · Views: 273
Last edited:
I also take some sick pleasure in posting this because there are always people who seem to think a Fumoto valve is some sort of safety risk.
Those people are crazy, especially on the 4Runner - it is WAY up in there. I leave my hose connected 100% of the time, it just sticks down 1/2" or so below the skid plate. If a rock or debris pulls it off, I'll just replace it. Been that way for years now with no issues. I'm so much of a rebel I don't even run the little lock bit of plastic on most of my engines (including lowered vehicles).

-Charlie
 
Those people are crazy, especially on the 4Runner - it is WAY up in there. I leave my hose connected 100% of the time, it just sticks down 1/2" or so below the skid plate. If a rock or debris pulls it off, I'll just replace it. Been that way for years now with no issues. I'm so much of a rebel I don't even run the little lock bit of plastic on most of my engines (including lowered vehicles).

-Charlie

Damn bro, you ARE a wild man!! LOL

I leave my hose on too and just let it lay on the skidplate. The plastic clip was still in my photos bc it's a new valve - it will go missing soon. Stay free brother!
 
Spent 5 hours rewiring my air locker to a negative trigger, and went I finally went to test it... nothing.
Then I spent another whole hour diagnosing why that is.... before I realized I forgot to disconnect the battery and I blew the 40A fuse, probably while snipping the old wires :doh: :doh: :doh:
Which is kinda relieving, my new circuit (down below) is much more simple than what I did the first time and I was BAFFLED as to why it wasn't working. But still a bummer!
The star is supposed to be the dash light lol

edit: yes I realize now that it won't work :frusty:
 

Attachments

  • ARB.jpg
    ARB.jpg
    29.9 KB · Views: 210
Last edited:
Removed a couple of sad bearing noises by replacing the fan pulley bracket and also the 70amp alternator with a Denso 100amp reman that my husband found would fit with minimal alteration.
Whether changing the oil filter will be more interesting due to the alternator's output wire position remains to be seen, but it looks doable. I can go back to the oe filter rather than the taller V8 version I'm using now if it's a clearance issue.
SmWz8Tzl.jpg
 
Removed a couple of sad bearing noises by replacing the fan pulley bracket and also the 70amp alternator with a Denso 100amp reman that my husband found would fit with minimal alteration.
Whether changing the oil filter will be more interesting due to the alternator's output wire position remains to be seen, but it looks doable. I can go back to the oe filter rather than the taller V8 version I'm using now if it's a clearance issue.
SmWz8Tzl.jpg

I recently got the same alternator, have not yet installed. Form everything I have read the only modification is the threaded hole has to be drilled out a bit larger and does not need to be threaded with the toyota tensioning system.

Otherwise it mounts exactly same and hope we can still run the big filter.

Did you do any wire upgrades, some people say you dont need to , others say you should ? My other 2 past 4runners I had done the big 3 to it, this one I have not

for those interested....its a taco write up, but same as our 4runners in this case

1st gen 105 amp bolt in alternator. | Tacoma World
 
Last edited:
I recently got the same alternator, have not yet installed. Form everything I have read the only modification is the threaded hole has to be drilled out a bit larger and does not need to be threaded with the toyota tensioning system.

Otherwise it mounts exactly same and hope we can still run the big filter.

Did you do any wire upgrades, some people say you dont need to , others say you should ? My other 2 past 4runners I had done the big 3 to it, this one I have not

for those interested....its a taco write up, but same as our 4runners in this case

1st gen 105 amp bolt in alternator. | Tacoma World
I am due for my first oil change since adding that alternator, I'll try to report back in the next week or two after that... I do use the taller OEM V8 filter.

The '99+ 3rd gens already have a 120A alternator fusible link, so shouldn't need any changes. I think the '96-'98 have a 100A, if I remember right (I still have the harness from my '97 parts truck in a box in the garage all hacked up for parts). That, and maybe the charge/ground wires should be upgraded if you have the parts/skills, though it is unlikely to be necessary.

-Charlie
 
Me and lots of other people have been running the cadillac 140 amp alternator for years. I do not remember ever seeing anyone changing their fusable links, or changing wiring (outside of the big 3 mod). That is definitely something to think about though.

Congrats on eliminating squeaky bearings.
 
I recently got the same alternator, have not yet installed. Form everything I have read the only modification is the threaded hole has to be drilled out a bit larger and does not need to be threaded with the toyota tensioning system.

Otherwise it mounts exactly same and hope we can still run the big filter.

Did you do any wire upgrades, some people say you dont need to , others say you should ? My other 2 past 4runners I had done the big 3 to it, this one I have not

for those interested....its a taco write up, but same as our 4runners in this case

1st gen 105 amp bolt in alternator. | Tacoma World
You're correct on drilling out the threaded hole, that was it.
I'd already done ground wire upgrades, but haven't done anything else...yet.
I am due for my first oil change since adding that alternator, I'll try to report back in the next week or two after that... I do use the taller OEM V8 filter.

The '99+ 3rd gens already have a 120A alternator fusible link, so shouldn't need any changes. I think the '96-'98 have a 100A, if I remember right (I still have the harness from my '97 parts truck in a box in the garage all hacked up for parts). That, and maybe the charge/ground wires should be upgraded if you have the parts/skills, though it is unlikely to be necessary.

-Charlie
Mine being the 96, some wiring might be in my future. I'll watch for your larger oil filter compatibility report.

Me and lots of other people have been running the cadillac 140 amp alternator for years. I do not remember ever seeing anyone changing their fusable links, or changing wiring (outside of the big 3 mod). That is definitely something to think about though.

Congrats on eliminating squeaky bearings.
The GM alternator would have been fine for amps and parts house availability except with the dual battery box there's no room for it.
Squeaky bearings make me nuts, that bracket bearing sounded terrible, luckily the notchety sound could even be heard when out of the truck and spun by hand. I was worried it could be the water pump, so glad it wasn't!
 
You're correct on drilling out the threaded hole, that was it.
I'd already done ground wire upgrades, but haven't done anything else...yet.
Mine being the 96, some wiring might be in my future. I'll watch for your larger oil filter compatibility report.


The GM alternator would have been fine for amps and parts house availability except with the dual battery box there's no room for it.
Squeaky bearings make me nuts, that bracket bearing sounded terrible, luckily the notchety sound could even be heard when out of the truck and spun by hand. I was worried it could be the water pump, so glad it wasn't!

being lazy...what is the stock awg wire from alternator to battery..if less than would 4awg be better. I have 4awg available at work..i think octanejunkie said to run 2 gauge.
i ask because i think my alternator is about to crap out...bearing...and I have the Suzuki one on hand ready to go and its cold outside...so if needed I want to go fast . as it appears to change that wire, I need to change the battery clamp...parking lot at minus burr is no fun. I cant remember when I did my big 3 many years ago on a previous 4runner if i had to change clamps

....btw...the Suzuki alternator is what habbernaro and phattyduck and I are referring too....its off a Suzuki

rock auto 210-461
 
Last edited:
We have these on my bike forums and didnt find one here with the search. So lets get this started. As the title states, what did you do to it today?

IÂ’m back home from college for the weekend and IÂ’ve been trying to figure out a p0300 p0303 and p0305 code IÂ’ve tracked it down to it being fuel injector related bc there was a little bit of fuel shooting out my tailpipe when I revved it my fuel injectors where recently replaced aslong side my FPR everything is OEM I just replaced my spark plugs for this issue and now it doesnÂ’t want to start itÂ’s cranking but no start the new 4 out of 6 of the new plugs have been burnt again I just took the fuel injectors out and checked them they seem to be fine but I noticed where the plugs that are burnt the cylinder is covered in like some black substance but where the plugs that werenÂ’t burnt you can see like a little squarish spark should I use something to clean them and go from there or do you guys think itÂ’s hydro locked? Sorry IÂ’m all over the place I need my 4Runner
 
being lazy...what is the stock awg wire from alternator to battery..if less than would 4awg be better. I have 4awg available at work..i think octanejunkie said to run 2 gauge.
i ask because i think my alternator is about to crap out...bearing...and I have the Suzuki one on hand ready to go and its cold outside...so if needed I want to go fast . as it appears to change that wire, I need to change the battery clamp...parking lot at minus burr is no fun. I cant remember when I did my big 3 many years ago on a previous 4runner if i had to change clamps

I honestly don't know and don't have anything to compare. A 6 or even a 4 maybe? You'll have to tell me.
For now I've left that wire as it was, I think I've still got some 2 awg around here somewhere. When I did my dual batteries I pulled the clamp part off the start battery and woggled out the hole in the eyelet to work with my military terminals with a 3/8" bolt. That was 14 years ago so my remembery is not precise...talk about time flying! I don't have the stock clamp any more.
 
Removed a couple of sad bearing noises by replacing the fan pulley bracket and also the 70amp alternator with a Denso 100amp reman that my husband found would fit with minimal alteration.
Whether changing the oil filter will be more interesting due to the alternator's output wire position remains to be seen, but it looks doable. I can go back to the oe filter rather than the taller V8 version I'm using now if it's a clearance issue.
SmWz8Tzl.jpg

Cool! One more upgrade I didn't know existed, but now can't live without :)!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top