What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[2TH4IST]

Been working on my switch pro mount and electrical panel for a few days. I ditched cruise control to give me more room as i dont use it. I had a spare cruise control module and cut off the male connector to seal the stock connector up. It's made from 1/4 inch abs, heated it up and bent to shape. No breakers, all main power fuses will be on the battery, which is a Odyssey 27f, just got to install it. Still have to finish wiring up the lights/winch/big 3 but work has been horrid at scheduling consistency. Also installed spc rear lower links, rago ditch light brackets. Still need to fab up a rear swingout. Also picked up a arcworx outboard shock relocation kit. Now to start saving up for new shocks/coilovers.

 

[Devbot]

Been working on my switch pro mount and electrical panel for a few days. I ditched cruise control to give me more room as i dont use it. I had a spare cruise control module and cut off the male connector to seal the stock connector up. It's made from 1/4 inch abs, heated it up and bent to shape. No breakers, all main power fuses will be on the battery, which is a Odyssey 27f, just got to install it. Still have to finish wiring up the lights/winch/big 3 but work has been horrid at scheduling consistency. Also installed spc rear lower links, rago ditch light brackets. Still need to fab up a rear swingout. Also picked up a arcworx outboard shock relocation kit. Now to start saving up for new shocks/coilovers.

Dang, I wish I thought of that back before I wanted to sell the truck. Never once in my life have I used cruise control, to me it's a useless accessory

 

[36degreesnorth]

Been working on my switch pro mount and electrical panel for a few days. I ditched cruise control to give me more room as i dont use it. I had a spare cruise control module and cut off the male connector to seal the stock connector up. It's made from 1/4 inch abs, heated it up and bent to shape.

I will never use cruse on my 98 this is a great idea.

 

[GhostRing]

Never once in my life have I used cruise control, to me it's a useless accessory

I always want to hook up a old bike shifter for a hand throttle
but I never get around to it...maybe worth it now that I have a winch?

 

[36degreesnorth]

Picked up a set of manual 4th gen seats for $60 to replace my broken and worn out power seats. Plan to drill the floor and then weld nuts to the underside. Will probably also throw bolts into the two stock mounting holds to keep them clean.

 

[phattyduck]

I always want to hook up a old bike shifter for a hand throttle
but I never get around to it...maybe worth it now that I have a winch?

If you just want idle-up for winch work, you can use a switch and a resistor inline with the coolant temp sensor to fool the ECU into cold idle. You just need to find the point that it stays closed loop but holds the idle up at 1000-1200 RPM. No need for any mechanical mods for that one. There's a few threads on Tacoma World about it.

-Charlie

 

[sjwelna]

Recently redid front brakes on my 2000 and upgraded to the 199mm tundra's. Then realized my shake was still there while braking, and then redid drums/shoes and hardware in the rear. Put it all back together and THEN found that my rear bell cranks were totally siezed, so I pulled those off and ground them off and packed them full of grease. Now the brakes feel good but I can feel a vibration in the rear driveline somewhere so I get to pull the rear driveshaft and pray it's just the transfer case flange nut that's backed off a little. If I have to rebuild a 3rd member I'm just going to pull the whole rear end and have an ARB air locker put in......:shrug:

 

[GhostRing]

Replaced both 10 yr. old 13WL calipers due to seized components that I *thought* where causing my dart-to-the-left issue when stabbing the brakes.
It is far less pronounced on a steady slow-down, and combined with the brake bleed marathon I pulled, seems to be a better feel/response.
At least now everything functions properly, but I'm stumped as to why it STILL pulls. New everything else (except bearings) up front too. :/

 

[2TH4IST]

but I'm stumped as to why it STILL pulls.

More then likely it's your alignment. Have you check your suspension components for wear?

As for what I did the other day. I'm almost completely finished with the wiring and other electrical stuff. Due to work schedule, progress isn't steady. But I got all my lights wire up and checked ked. Got all the temp stuff I did years ago remove and moved over the the permanent set up finally. I dug out my freshly rebuilt 200a cs144 alternator. So next up is finish the fuel pump wiring and kill switch stuff. Winch and big 3 are left.

@mods there is something seriously wrong with the forum. Layout/format is all messed up and icons have broken image icon.

 

[OpenYota]

Finally replaced my fuel tank, sending unit, float, and fuel pump.
The original gas tank had rust on top and pin holes and was constantly giving me a P0440 code.

Now when I go to fill up my tank I hear a nice whoosh sound from it properly pressurizing itself!

 

[GhostRing]

More then likely it's your alignment. Have you check your suspension components for wear?

It's ALL new bushings, tie rods, steering rack, LBJs, tires(ish), re-packed CVs, The Works.
It was also aligned by a reputable performance shop with modified vehicle experience.
I'll keep picking at it, who knows - it probably the rear end f'ing with me...

I guess it's just part of the adventure!

 

[96RedRunner]

Replaced both 10 yr. old 13WL calipers due to seized components that I *thought* where causing my dart-to-the-left issue when stabbing the brakes.
It is far less pronounced on a steady slow-down, and combined with the brake bleed marathon I pulled, seems to be a better feel/response.
At least now everything functions properly, but I'm stumped as to why it STILL pulls. New everything else (except bearings) up front too. :/

Seizing problems I'd bet you have uneven layer of pad material on rotors both sides.
Clean rotors with wire wheel on grinder and brake clean same on pads. Rebed the pads.

 

[GhostRing]

Seizing problems I'd bet you have uneven layer of pad material on rotors both sides.
Clean rotors with wire wheel on grinder and brake clean same on pads. Rebed the pads.

That's a smart call.

I do know one of the pads is a millimeter or two more worn that the other,
and it's probably prudent to just replace them, but there is still some decent
meat left and I'm being stubborn.

With everything being somewhat re-equalized in the caliper, is it that much
of a bad idea to have one side of the pistons slightly farther inward?
I know it will wear out sooner, but does the caliper "know" it's unbalanced?

 

[agecalculator]

My friend's 2001 4Runner has 234,000 miles on it and the fact that it hasn't had any problems other than a rotten exhaust system and a leaky air conditioner evaporator (both of which are easily repairable) I like it.

 

[96RedRunner]

I do know one of the pads is a millimeter or two more worn that the other.
With everything being somewhat re-equalized in the caliper, is it that much
of a bad idea to have one side of the pistons slightly farther inward?

Talking inside/outside. Inside pads go first been my experience more piston exposure less pad.
Piston pairs exposure should be equal normal use. Your case may be different.

Depending how things were seized you could have had one piston working one not same side.
Wearing pad out of square with backing plate a possibility, things being equal now uneven wear on pad
something to look at. Could be why things are less than up to snuff.

 

[sashcraft]

Say hello to my new friend.

2000 Limited, 165,761 AZ & CA miles. Clean, clean, clean. The pre-buy inspection showed no issues. I think she's a beauty! Now off to buy a new buffer to keep that black shiny.

 

[96RedRunner]

2000 Limited, 165,761 AZ & CA miles. Clean, clean, clean.

Real good find, today's market I'd have no problem dropping some coin. :cheers:

 

[Atomic_Robot]

All of the troubleshooting, Chasing a cyl #6 misfire...

 

[JohnMc]

No pics, didn't happen.

But the 2.5" Radflo shocks I put on many years ago had the spring perches absolutely 100% stuck to the shock body, unable to adjsut ride height. And with the manual hubs on it now, I can raise it up a little more and scrape a little less on the skids, right? But I could not budge them at all. Tried soaking with PBLaster daily for a week or two, then tried with proper coilover wrenches. Nothing. And it had a clunk from one, I think a worn spherical bushing.

In any case I hit it with my purse and bought new Icon 2.5 shocks for it. And while hovering over them, trying to decide whether I wanted the standard travel or extended travel, and noting that the extended travel needs UCA's with more travel, I decided to do both.

Hardest part of the install was removing the upper ball joints from the upright/spindle. They're pressed in there with a LOT of force, and it takes a lot of force to remove them. Such a PITA. But they're in there. As delivered, they're set to a roughly 2.5" higher ride height. So I went to crank them up a bit more and... lol, thy have holes in the adjusters, my coilover wrenches are for the style with slots. No go. I ordered some pin style wrenches on Amazon, they haven't gotten here yet. *SIGH*

Anyhow, once adjusted a little more ride height, a little more droop, and less clunking.

 

[2TH4IST]

Pulled out the cs144 alternator to replace the voltage regulator with a set point of 14.8v for my agm battery and to swap to a 1.9 inch pulley as it wouldn't charge with the stock pulley (rotor speed was to low) at engine idle. So with a crank pulley diameter of 6.247 inches and a 1.9 inch pulley it spins at 2460 rpm at idle and 18040 rpm at red line. Perfect! Tossed it back into the car and checked the work. Fantastic! Cold charging is 14.8v and hot charging is 14.6v, bingo!

Next moved onto the wench (winch). Got all the wires I made last week installed and tightened down. Sweet. I ended up taking the apex 12k control box apart and took the solenoid and installed it in the passenger wing of the coastal off road bumper. It's tight, but fits and works perfectly. Wired up the cable and wireless control stuff. Accidentally switched the wires so when you hit out it pulled in lol. Quick fix and it works fantastically. With that, all my electrical for now are complete! For now lol. Got to re thread the wench line as I ditched all metal on the line.

Next up is redoing the rear disc conversion. Ditching the Ford calipers for some lc80 rear calipers and wilwood mc4's for the parking brake, seriously need a good parking brake. And at the same time tossing in a lc80 master and booster too.

Then the rear swing out, hope to get these done in the next few months as I want to take a nice 3-5 week vacation offroad trip across country.

To busy working to get pics, sorry.