What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[phattyduck]

Mirror works perfectly! Compass and temp were spot on! 110° today and for the next few days.

I need to relocate my temp sensor (JDM field monitor) to be in front of the radiator... Its off to the side, below the headlight. I saw 49*C (120*F) - when it was really "only" about 110*F while going fairly slow in traffic. It reads correct at highway speeds.

-Charlie

 

[Spiker Engineering]

I need to relocate my temp sensor (JDM field monitor) to be in front of the radiator... Its off to the side, below the headlight. I saw 49*C (120*F) - when it was really "only" about 110*F while going fairly slow in traffic. It reads correct at highway speeds.

-Charlie

I'm still dealing with the same issue with my temp sensor, which I have just behind the grille. It reads correctly when moving, but goes up a lot when stopped due to soakback. I tried numerous locations, all with the same result.

I don't know how they get around that in factory installed temp sensors - I wonder if they use software to "average" or delay temperature readings, to eliminate the soakback effect?

Another thought I had was to wrap the sensor with insulation, but I haven't tried that yet.

 

[2TH4IST]

I have my temp sensor clipped to the top right of the grill looking at the front of the car. The idle heat vs moving is present on all my vehicles with a temp sensor. From a '15 Subaru Forrester to a '05 chevy 3500. I didn't notice it as much on the 4r, but I did foam tape the heat exchange stack so even with the fan spinning at idle speed it will pull air through the heat stack.
[MENTION=15163]Spiker[/MENTION]engineering

I wouldn't wrap the temp sensor, it would skew the readings.

 

[blarchitect]

Another thought I had was to wrap the sensor with insulation, but I haven't tried that yet.

Why not use the factory location? There is even a cut out in the body that accepts the tab on the OEM sensor. It's forward of the drivers wheel well and sits between body and bumper. My front end is in pieces so can take a pic if you want. I've never had the temp above the mid to late 30's here in the scorchiest days in Nassau.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Why not use the factory location? There is even a cut out in the body that accepts the tab on the OEM sensor. It's forward of the drivers wheel well and sits between body and bumper. My front end is in pieces so can take a pic if you want. I've never had the temp above the mid to late 30's here in the scorchiest days in Nassau.

I'm not familiar with any OEM location for temp sensors on 3rd Gens?

 

[Spiker Engineering]

[MENTION=15163]Spiker[/MENTION]engineering

I wouldn't wrap the temp sensor, it would skew the readings.

I haven't tried it yet; my idea was to wrap most of the probe (maybe not the tip), so as to reduce the temperature fluctuations between moving and stopped. I wouldn't wrap the entire probe with heavy insulation, as that would isolate it too much from the air temperature. I'll try it and see what happens.

 

[phattyduck]

I'm not familiar with any OEM location for temp sensors on 3rd Gens?

The Limiteds (probably '99+ only, since yours is also a Limited...) have an outside temp sensor as part of the auto-AC system. The SR5's have the connector there, unused, so I used that wiring for the JDM field monitor. It even uses the same connector with different keying up front. Here it is, plugged in. I put it just above where I'm holding it in the pic:

I experimented with it here, but I don't remember why I put it back in front of the wheel well.

You want it protected as much as possible from the sun, the ground and in the radiator air inlet airstream, generally.

-Charlie

 

[Spiker Engineering]

The Limiteds (probably '99+ only, since yours is also a Limited...) have an outside temp sensor as part of the auto-AC system. The SR5's have the connector there, unused, so I used that wiring for the JDM field monitor. It even uses the same connector with different keying up front. Here it is, plugged in. I put it just above where I'm holding it in the pic:

I experimented with it here, but I don't remember why I put it back in front of the wheel well.

You want it protected as much as possible from the sun, the ground and in the radiator air inlet airstream, generally.

-Charlie

Ah, thanks Charlie! My primitive '97 doesn't have that .

 

[blarchitect]

This is also where it is on my '99 Surf. Below the wasp.

 

[Kjs99]

The usual

Checked the oil. Still not using any. Put in new scuff plates in the door. Added some Striker eng hood lift pistons.

 

[2TH4IST]

Got the perry parts extended bump stops. Nice quality! Also ordered up a set of new denso ignition coils and NGK plug wires. Time for an ignition tune up. Next time I'm off I'll do the rear limit straps, went with 17 inch straps from ORW. Great quality, looks exactly like the TMR straps.

If it's not to roasting hot I'll tackle the front limit strap welding. Says going to be 108°. It's a dry heat though.

 

[KD5NRH]

Checked the oil. Still not using any.

Wish I could say the same, but I seem to be at around 1500 miles to the quart. No drips, and the coolant is clean, so it's almost certainly burning. Not bad enough to start a major hunt at this point, and past a third of a million miles, either rings or head gasket, so I'll just keep an eye on it and start getting more concerned if it gets less than 1000 per quart.

Anyone done a Berryman's or SeaFoam soak on a 3.4? (i.e. dumping some in each cylinder and letting it sit a few hours before blowing it out and burning off the remainder) It's generally easy enough on any engine you can get to all the plugs on, and I had good luck with it on my old Saturn SL1, but not sure if these are prone to rings sticking. Definitely easier than digging through storage to find my compression tester.

 

[phattyduck]

I've been busy breaking in new 4.88 gears and TrueTrac diffs F/R this whole week. Still have a bunch of miles to go...

-Charlie

A couple weeks later, 500 mile break-in completed and new gear oil put in. So far, so good. I'll run conventional for at least 5k miles before considering swapping to synthetic. I have a feeling there is still a bit more break-in that is going to happen. TrueTracs supposedly work best with conventional gear oil (definitely no limited slip additive), so I may stick with my standard Valvoline 80w90 dino indefinitely. (that's what I use on my Alltrac, generally so its nice to keep to a single fluid)

-Charlie

 

[2TH4IST]

Congrats on finishing the break in!

As for what I did today, pulled off the rear shocks and sent them back to radflo for re-valving. Was going to tackle the rear limit straps, but well it's raining ashes and smokey as all can be. So no work outside until this stops. Oh yeah, the ac finally died after 47 years of service.....where can I find burried treasure or a massive wad of cash.....

 

[JZiggy]

A couple weeks later, 500 mile break-in completed and new gear oil put in. So far, so good. I'll run conventional for at least 5k miles before considering swapping to synthetic. I have a feeling there is still a bit more break-in that is going to happen. TrueTracs supposedly work best with conventional gear oil (definitely no limited slip additive), so I may stick with my standard Valvoline 80w90 dino indefinitely. (that's what I use on my Alltrac, generally so its nice to keep to a single fluid)

-Charlie

That's exactly the fluid I use and recommend for the TT. I put synth in my rear one some years ago (it had been broken in for 3+ years by that point) and it actually make the low-speed operation noisy. Switching back to conventional cured it. The higher CoF of conventional increases the torque bias of the unit as well. My SOP is to just change the rear lube every couple of years and call it good.

 

[GhostRing]

Wanted to thank [MENTION=405460]2TH4IST[/MENTION] for his help with the ECGS bushing installation - the removal tool makes it all too easy!
The wheel bearing however, took a little more persuasion...not sure if I did it wrong, but the bearing wouldn't let
go of the hub and also pushed through the snap-ring. Bit ugly, but got everything buttoned up and went for a test drive
that got me closer to the local fires than I expected. Made a safe retreat, but stay safe and aware out there!

 

[2TH4IST]

Happy it worked out for you! Damn fires, I have 3 around me at the moment.

 

[3bears]

what bushing you guys talking about,

and you two stay safe and away from fires

 

[2TH4IST]

It's the one in the drives side front diff. Here is the link:

TOYOTA 7.5" CLAMSHELL CV AXLE BUSHING

 

[3bears]

It's the one in the drives side front diff. Here is the link:

TOYOTA 7.5" CLAMSHELL CV AXLE BUSHING

and I guess this ECGS Clamshell CV Axle Bushing Install