What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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did you replace with stock bulb's or led's. i have a few burned out ones but not sure if I want to go led.

I have a mix in the 96 because between mod ideas and got a case of fiddly fingers. Just the large bulbs except for the gas light are leds and the rest are incandescent. I'm using Superbright smd leds. Dimmable, with multiple leds on the bulb for better distribution of light. I chose blue. I like red at night, but the blue is easier for me to see in the not-dark hours.
If I were to go with white I would pick the warmest white I could find- easier on the eyes than blue-whites. Actually, if I chose white I'd just try incandescent first.

The bulbs with a single led did not work well at all.

I cannot get a good pic, my eyes aren't picking up the hotspots like the camera is. This is as good as I can get...
dgUVhZSl.jpg
 
sniff sniff

Hello everyone. New guy here. What i did to my 4 Runner today?
I mostly stared at it while shedding some tears. As I cant drive it. because it wont start. And I've only had it for one week. Sniff, sniff.
I did order and had just received some floor mats, a 3 channel camera for it. Prolong engine and tranny additive, spark plugs, air filter and a rear cargo organizer.
I also had a spare chip key made from Home Depot (80.00) and it worked right off.....for a week. Then seems this key now made the security light keep blinking even when original OEM master key and Home Depot Key are now inserted, hence why it wont start. (I also just purchased a junkyard transceiver immobilizer ring and a junkyard ECU just in case.) So i do need some advise. Is it possible to reprogram the original Master chip key? w out changing the immobilizer? or do I need to reprogram the ECU if I install anything ? any help is welcomed.
Thank you all fine 4Runner folk.
 
So i do need some advise. Is it possible to reprogram the original Master chip key? w out changing the immobilizer? or do I need to reprogram the ECU if I install anything ? any help is welcomed.
Thank you all fine 4Runner folk.
The chip keys are not programmable, they have a fixed value. The ECU stores those values.

Is the truck cranking (engine spinning via the starter)? The immobilizer will shut the engine off about 1 second after starting if it isn't happy. There may be something else wrong that isn't the immobilizer.

Some more info:
Keys and Remotes and Immobilizers, Oh My!, or...

-Charlie
 
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Winter Tire Snow Shakedown — 2000 SR5 Manual

Installed Continental Winter Tires 245/75r16 on 16x7 Tundra wheels ('04-'06 SR5/Limited TRD Off-Road Package 16-in. alloy wheel)

Made snow driving video testing out my new winter wheel & tire setup. Also talk about purchasing this truck, its current condition, issues, & future plans.

YouTube VIDEO LINK:

5-Speed Manual 3rd Gen 4Runner ~170k Mile 'Winter Beater' — 4K
https://youtu.be/LuE6TGXlAlU?si=f0JdGstndxhM4CDc
 

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Mr. Fancy Links

This things are pretty bonkers - even compared to the Rokmens they
are replacing. I'm am probably unlikely to max them out with my
current suspension combo, but I'm mostly hoping they don't egg out
and make the axle squirm around. I am a little concerned that the nuts
on the lowers may get dinged/moved on rocks, but only time will tell.
There are now far too many new adjustments to make under the rig,
but just remember my signature...!
 

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[MENTION=93300]GhostRing[/MENTION] Beyond super fancy, like pinky out fancy.

Use tamper proof torque paint. Get everything set to where you want and tighten, clean a spot on the arm and nut (where it wont get hit). Then apply the paint. If nut or arm moves the paint breaks.

This is the best stuff I have used, it's burn your retina orange.

https://a.co/d/88CT6EN
 
[MENTION=93300]GhostRing[/MENTION] Beyond super fancy, like pinky out fancy.

Use tamper proof torque paint. Get everything set to where you want and tighten, clean a spot on the arm and nut (where it wont get hit). Then apply the paint. If nut or arm moves the paint breaks.

This is the best stuff I have used, it's burn your retina orange.

https://a.co/d/88CT6EN

Nice!
There's yellow paint pen lines all over the inside of the arms
but I bet can make that fancier too! My old arms have some
pretty decent abrasions on them - I've even toyed with the idea
of making mini skidplates for the jamnuts. I'll keep you informed
if I come up with something stupid enough...
 
Thank you

The chip keys are not programmable, they have a fixed value. The ECU stores those values.

Is the truck cranking (engine spinning via the starter)? The immobilizer will shut the engine off about 1 second after starting if it isn't happy. There may be something else wrong that isn't the immobilizer.

Some more info:
Keys and Remotes and Immobilizers, Oh My!, or...

-Charlie

Thanks for you help, now i know master key cant be programmed. Yes it does turn over and crank over. i will install the junkyard immobilizer. and once i do do i just put in the master key and see if security light stops blinking? and if it does is there a next step to do? The 73 Fj 40 was quite different. again thanks. (hope im following proper protocols)
 
Got the front lowered a tiny bit. Half an inch. Then took my rear driveshaft off to measure for a Tom's woods shaft. Transfer case bolt pattern is 66mm x 66mm diff is 60mm x 60mm and length is 48 7/16", measured like a trillion times. And the order placed.

Also got the opt offroad links today, damn those things are beefy. Firetruck!

Also ordered up the eimkeith lower link skid, upper link reinforcement, and opt's lower link axle side braces too. Think I'll remove the axle to weld up all that stuff.

Then went and adjusted my headlights, and aux lighting. Holy hell its bright! Everything works perfectly..... except the switch pros dimming function. Which I think I have traced it down to the DRL module still being active. I will deactivate per the TSB EL011-00. As I'm getting some residual 5.0v on my parking light and headlight circuit.
 
Then went and adjusted my headlights, and aux lighting. Holy hell its bright! Everything works perfectly..... except the switch pros dimming function. Which I think I have traced it down to the DRL module still being active. I will deactivate per the TSB EL011-00. As I'm getting some residual 5.0v on my parking light and headlight circuit.
If you are all LED on those circuits, that's the cause. You either need a load resistor or incandescent filament somewhere to bleed everything down.

-Charlie
 
If you are all LED on those circuits, that's the cause. You either need a load resistor or incandescent filament somewhere to bleed everything down.

-Charlie

Yep, led on every bulb except 3rd brake light. HID on head lights. Yeah, the TSB didn't fix the issue. So I'll try this route. Thanks Charlie!

Just tested it, you are correct Charlie! Thanks for that. Though it fixed the issue, I can't run it on a constant circuit, the thing got smoking hot after 2 mins during my test lol. I guess I'll have my cake and not eat it lol.
 
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Winter Beater Snow Update — 5-Speed Manual

Made a video :)

Winter Beater Snow Update — Manual 3rd gen 4Runner
YT VIDEO LINK: https://youtu.be/MbOVh9HCrdU
 

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Yep, led on every bulb except 3rd brake light. HID on head lights. Yeah, the TSB didn't fix the issue. So I'll try this route. Thanks Charlie!

Just tested it, you are correct Charlie! Thanks for that. Though it fixed the issue, I can't run it on a constant circuit, the thing got smoking hot after 2 mins during my test lol. I guess I'll have my cake and not eat it lol.
I bet even a 74 size bulb would be enough, though a 168/194 bulb and socket hidden in a fender would be easier find and setup. That'll burn less wattage than a fixed resistor (bulbs have a positive temp coefficient - they get resistive only once they heat up and start glowing, otherwise they act like a short circuit)

-Charlie
 
[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] Thanks for the tip and wealth of info, I'll mess with a bit later, had a bit of a spill riding my bicycle home from work.
 
Today after work I installed the tom woods rear driveshaft. Only thing I had to do was remove the knurled studs on the transfer case flange as the studs were to short. The driveshafe cv flange is thicker then stock. It's awesome quality! Waiting on a 27mm crowsfoot to do the transfer case and front diff switches.
 
Well it was actually Saturday not today, but I took my 4runner out to go shopping. Some crazy mofu in a big pickup looked like he was going to hit me broadside in a parking lot, so I sped up to get out of his way. Then he came up behind me at a stop sign, still in the parking lot. He came up behind within an inch of me, and then closed that inch and pushed me about 15-20 feet out of his way. Then he drove around me and took off down a frontage road, with me in pursuit trying to get his license number. He came to another stop sign and I came up behind him to just where I could almost read his plate, but he gets out and starts walking toward me like the deranged crazy muffer that he was, and not wanting to escalate things and not knowing if he had a gun I threw it in reverse for a hundred feet. He kept coming, so I had to back all the way up a small hill and around a corner before he finally walked back to his truck. By now I had 9-1-1 on the line. He took off and I took off after him again, giving 9-1-1 all the description that I could. I followed him about a mile,but just barely because he was flying, then he turned and I got caught by the stop light so I lost him.

But the cops found him less than a 1/4 mile later. No drivers license, no insurance, and no ticket for what he did to me because there was no damage to his truck to prove it, except my trailer hitch bent his plate. Fortunately, it only did minor damage to my already seriously rusted rear bumper but it definitely rattled me.
 
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Well it was actually Saturday not today, but I took my 4runner out to go shopping. Some crazy mofu in a big pickup looked like he was going to hit me broadside in a parking lot, so I sped up to get out of his way. Then he came up behind me at a stop sign, still in the parking lot. He came up behind within an inch of me, and then closed that inch and pushed me about 15-20 feet out of his way. Then he drove around me and took off down a frontage road, with me in pursuit trying to get his license number. He came to another stop sign and I came up behind him to just where I could almost read his plate, but he gets out and starts walking toward me like the deranged crazy muffer that he was, and not wanting to escalate things and not knowing if he had a gun I threw it in reverse for a hundred feet. He kept coming, so I had to back all the way up a small hill and around a corner before he finally walked back to his truck. By now I had 9-1-1 on the line. He took off and I took off after him again, giving 9-1-1 all the description that I could. I followed him about a mile,but just barely because he was flying, then he turned and I got caught by the stop light so I lost him.

But the cops found him less than a 1/4 mile later. No drivers license, no insurance, and no ticket for what he did to me because there was no damage to his truck to prove it, except my trailer hitch bent his plate. Fortunately, it only did minor damage to my already seriously rusted rear bumper but it definitely rattled me.

Glad you got out of it OK. Road rage is a scary thing, you were smart to hightail it out of there.
 
Removed a few wafers from the ignition switch to allow the key to actually rotate after the truck stalled from a needed WOT in traffic
that subsequently left me coasting into & blocking the intersection until someone kind soul towed me out of the way. :/

I know the issues aren't exactly related, but they both happened at an irritatingly coincidental moment!
The WOT stall has happened before and I'm irked that no one has truly figured out the solution...
 
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