96 ToyRunner
Member
Finally got a new set of tires and went with the copper discovery stt pro’s in 285/75/r16 at 391,748
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
- Thread starter pin8246
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Cooling system upgrade, Koyorad aluminum radiator, new Aisin water pump, thermostat, fan and clutch, Denso heater valve, hoses and coolant. The Koyorad radiator fit really well, bonus was no internal trans cooler. All th OG parts came out, still worked well after 175K (except for coolant of course), but it was time....
2TH4IST
Member
Drove him 200 miles on t-day. High speed vibrations gone, I'd say my oem driveshaft was shot. Also received the eimkeith lls, ulbr, and freelgood axle lower link reinforcement. And the belmetric bolts that are longer for the braces.
Maybe sometime in a few weeks I'll order the new welder.
Maybe sometime in a few weeks I'll order the new welder.
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
I ordered up mix of parts at a sweet deal to convert my old Sherpa Antero into a full-length Matterhorn. Also rebuilt the ball joint ends of my OCD sway bar end links. I had buggered them up over the years and had cross-threaded stuff and even tore the boots. NOT OCD's fault. All tight and back to No Clunks again!
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2TH4IST
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Took him to the local trail, 2n49. And again it started puking front diff oil out of the breather. No water crossings, not over filled. I have Lucas 75w90, and hear that oil loves to climb. So it's time for the diffs and t case oil change. Going to replace the breather hose and add a cheap fuel filter onto it to help stop the puking. And use valvoline 75w90 this fill.
Also got to use the MORRflate system for the first time. Airing down was fast as all can be and airing up was like 2 mins. Worth the purchase!
Also got to use the MORRflate system for the first time. Airing down was fast as all can be and airing up was like 2 mins. Worth the purchase!
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
I've been following MORRflate since Day 1 and have never gotten around to pulling the trigger. Seemed like every time I got close there was a new version out! I have a crappy old Smitty compressor and still do one tire at a time. Did you get one of their compressors, too? I saw the Pro was on backordered last week but not sure if I need that much. Can you share which package you got (hose length, etc)?
blarchitect
Member
Prove it with pics you tease!
jmoskow
Member
Cleaned TB & IAC + Installed New Gaskets
When I recently bought this 2000 SR5 4x4 Manual with ~174k miles, the whole engine bay was covered in fine dust. Purchased with CEL p0171 and high warm idle (~1500rpm) as the only symptom. I cleared CEL and it came back.
Discovered a hole on clean side of the stock air box. Not sure how long the engine was exposed to unfiltered dust. Awhile by the looks of TB.
Fixed air box hole, got CEL p0505, so I set out cleaning throttle body & IAC. Replaced both gaskets and a number of vacuum lines. Cleared CEL, disconnected battery and EFI fuse. Been driving for about 120mi without CEL. Warm idle is between 850rpm and 1200rpm but mostly sits around 1000rpm.
Think I still have a vacuum leak. Replacing the entire intake with a stock unit and will report back.
When I recently bought this 2000 SR5 4x4 Manual with ~174k miles, the whole engine bay was covered in fine dust. Purchased with CEL p0171 and high warm idle (~1500rpm) as the only symptom. I cleared CEL and it came back.
Discovered a hole on clean side of the stock air box. Not sure how long the engine was exposed to unfiltered dust. Awhile by the looks of TB.
Fixed air box hole, got CEL p0505, so I set out cleaning throttle body & IAC. Replaced both gaskets and a number of vacuum lines. Cleared CEL, disconnected battery and EFI fuse. Been driving for about 120mi without CEL. Warm idle is between 850rpm and 1200rpm but mostly sits around 1000rpm.
Think I still have a vacuum leak. Replacing the entire intake with a stock unit and will report back.
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stuckinthemud
Member
I dropped the front of the rear drive shaft, and tightened the nut on the transfer case output yoke. I've had a whole vehicle vibration when I'm between 60 and 70 MPH.
Vibration gone!
Vibration gone!
I thought the front diff breather was in the engine compartment, near battery, I have 2 breathers there in my 2000
GhostRing
Member
Are you doing just the breather, or the tube as well?
I haven't messed with mine (yet) - only extended the rear.
Is it acting up or showing signs of failure?
2TH4IST
Member
[MENTION=124615]3bears[/MENTION] - Correct it's in driver side of engine compartment. But I'm going to replace the whole hose.
[MENTION=93300]GhostRing[/MENTION] - removing the metal tube. Running one hose with a vw bug style fuel filter to help prevent oil puking out the breather. Almost every time I go offroading he pukes out diff oil. I've checked for water contamination and over filled. It's neither one. But I am running Lucas gear oil. Which from what I have read it likes to climb.
[MENTION=93300]GhostRing[/MENTION] - removing the metal tube. Running one hose with a vw bug style fuel filter to help prevent oil puking out the breather. Almost every time I go offroading he pukes out diff oil. I've checked for water contamination and over filled. It's neither one. But I am running Lucas gear oil. Which from what I have read it likes to climb.
GhostRing
Member
Same - If that is the solution, I'm all ears!
I definitely see oil weeping out the cap fairly often.
Does the hose ID increase as well? Just curious what changes.
2TH4IST
Member
I'm taking a wild guess the vent hose is the same as the rear at 5/16 id. The fuel filter media will catch the oil but not let it burp out, or so I read, for under 10 bucks I'll give it a shot. If this doesn't work I'll try a tiny overflow bottle or something. I'll keep you posted. I'll post pics when I do this mod.
phattyduck
Elite Member
There's a short hose between the diff and the metal line assembly, then a longer one that runs from the driver's side up to the inner fender near the ADD VSVs. Its tight, but you should be able to do it in the truck.
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