What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[2TH4IST]

Correct, went back to stock hubs and all. I did email trackmotive last month asking if they will be doing extended travel manual hub cv's. Basically said we don't have them for manual hubs. So I'm guessing nothing will come of it.

But after taking mine apart, I don't think they will ever be made, as the manual hub cv's are somewhat free float in the hub. It has a c-clip that holds it from pulling out. A bronze bushing, washer then c clip. I'd imagine it would wear out that bronze bushing extremely fast. The cv "pulls" the hub side cv to extend the axle.

Eta - I had no issues installing the drivers side cv with the ECGS bushing. I guess driving with it already installed for a few years loosened it up a bit. Now taking them out will not be fun at all.

 

[bradyabbt]

Shuts off while driving

One day I was driving home and I reached a red light, all of the sudden my 4runner shut off. It immediately cranked back up and I was able to pull into a gas station parking lot where it shut off again. When I went to crank it back up it was lethargic. I let it sit for 1-2 minutes and it cranked back up, got a little bit further down the road until I had to repeat the same steps. When I got it back home I smelled burnt rubber. I measured the output on my battery and it was 12.4v with the car on and off. So I immediately went and changed the alternator. I just finished putting it back on and tested my battery output with the car on. It read 13.4v, all was well so I thought. I went on a test drive and all was well until I went to pull back into my house and it shut off again. I had to let it sit for 1-2 mins before it turned back on. Headlights remained on, dash lights were on. Not sure what to make of it. It is a new project car and it is the 3.4 5VZ-FE. I need to replace the intake boot because the previous owner had it duck taped, my first thought is that it is something to do with belt slippage. I got the code P0420 as well when I pulled the codes off. Assuming that it was related to the mass airflow sensor in the intake boot. I need as much help as I can get. Thanks

 

[JohnMc]

Correct, went back to stock hubs and all. I did email trackmotive last month asking if they will be doing extended travel manual hub cv's. Basically said we don't have them for manual hubs. So I'm guessing nothing will come of it.

But after taking mine apart, I don't think they will ever be made, as the manual hub cv's are somewhat free float in the hub. It has a c-clip that holds it from pulling out. A bronze bushing, washer then c clip. I'd imagine it would wear out that bronze bushing extremely fast. The cv "pulls" the hub side cv to extend the axle.

Did you have binding at full droop with the manual CV? I put longer travel UCA's and Icon shocks on mine, using Toyota rebuilt manual CV's and didn't notice any. But then I wasn't particularly looking. Makes me think I should jack it up by the frame and check that at full steering lock and droop.

 

[JZiggy]

Did you have binding at full droop with the manual CV? I put longer travel UCA's and Icon shocks on mine, using Toyota rebuilt manual CV's and didn't notice any. But then I wasn't particularly looking. Makes me think I should jack it up by the frame and check that at full steering lock and droop.

This is the first I had heard that the manual hub CVs may have different operating angle limits than the ADD CV's. The shafts are a bit different but the tulip and the rzeppa joints don't appear to be, so it's not obvious why there'd be this issue.

 

[JohnMc]

This is the first I had heard that the manual hub CVs may have different operating angle limits than the ADD CV's. The shafts are a bit different but the tulip and the rzeppa joints don't appear to be, so it's not obvious why there'd be this issue.

I wouldn't expect any difference. They installed extended travel CV's and converted back to ADD hubs from the manual hubs when they installed the upper control arms and longer shocks that give you an inch more droop.

I was curious if they'd encountered CV binding, or using extended travel CV's (and ADD hubs) was just in case.

I do have a diff drop on mine, drops the front diff maybe 2/3rds of an inch? 1 inch at the front mount, pivoted down from the rear mount.

I didn't think to check for CV binding with the steering turned lock to lock, when I installed my longer shocks and UCA's. Just noted that they were fine pointed straight ahead.

 

[2TH4IST]

When I had stock length front shocks, aftermarket upper arms (spc) and manual hubs/cv's they were fine, no binding. Both straight and full lock.

Then I installed extended travel radflos. When fully drooped, complete bind. As I could not rotate the tire with all my weight. Full lock was the same.

FWIW, I was using trackmotive manual hub cv's (stock) as I could not find oem cv's.

I don't run a diff drop, it hits the skid plate bad (skid row skids). But I tried it in case. Which eliminated the cv binding. It was 1" diff drop. But no skid plate is a no go.

Had to crank up the limit straps, I lost all the down travel I gained. I don't know if it was binding at the tulip or the rzeppa joint. But now that I think of it, it was probably the tulip joint.

Now, with ADD hubs and cv's (extended travel trackmotives) the shocks top out before any issue with the cv's binding. I do have the limit strap set 1/2" before the shock tops out. With that said, and where the limit strap is now, I gained a bit over 1" more droop. Which is a lot!

Hope this clears everything up.

 

[fourfive]

No longer in denial that my light output sucks compared to the new projector stuff. Been riding with stock toyota headlights & bulbs from day 1. Time for an update. Got some work to do.

Edit:
Snowbound Customs Quad LED Projector Headlight Retrofit Build

 

[JohnMc]

When I had stock length front shocks, aftermarket upper arms (spc) and manual hubs/cv's they were fine, no binding. Both straight and full lock.

Then I installed extended travel radflos. When fully drooped, complete bind. As I could not rotate the tire with all my weight. Full lock was the same.

FWIW, I was using trackmotive manual hub cv's (stock) as I could not find oem cv's.

I don't run a diff drop, it hits the skid plate bad (skid row skids). But I tried it in case. Which eliminated the cv binding. It was 1" diff drop. But no skid plate is a no go.

Had to crank up the limit straps, I lost all the down travel I gained. I don't know if it was binding at the tulip or the rzeppa joint. But now that I think of it, it was probably the tulip joint.

Now, with ADD hubs and cv's (extended travel trackmotives) the shocks top out before any issue with the cv's binding. I do have the limit strap set 1/2" before the shock tops out. With that said, and where the limit strap is now, I gained a bit over 1" more droop. Which is a lot!

Hope this clears everything up.

I have the Icon extended shocks and upper control arms, so I've got that extra inch of droop as well. I'd guess either the Toyota CV shafts have a tiny bit more travel than the Trackmotives, or the diff drop I'm running is saving the day. I have Savage skids and they (barely) fit with the diff drop.

I'm also running the softer springs (even though I have a winch and 4XI bumper) with the spring perches screwed upward, no front sway bar, but with the rear sway still on. This loosens the front end up a bunch, keeping the rear end a bit stiffer, so the articulation is a bit more balanced than the 90:10% articulation it normally does with the rear axle doing almost everything. You can certainly feel that working on the trail. And it's pretty soft and mushy feeling on pavement.

 

[Sonny.Deez]

I’m hoping I didn’t screw up my 4Runner today. I went to change the water pump / timing belt and had trouble breaking free the nut on the crank shaft pulley. Finally got it off buy now when I got to spin everything to top dead center I’m getting a ton of resistance at one point… much more than just the usual compression. Not sure what went wrong

 

[2TH4IST]

I have the Icon extended shocks and upper control arms, so I've got that extra inch of droop as well. I'd guess either the Toyota CV shafts have a tiny bit more travel than the Trackmotives, or the diff drop I'm running is saving the day. I have Savage skids and they (barely) fit with the diff drop.

I soooo want a set of savage skids, badly. I just waited to late and he stopped making them.

More then likely it's the diff drop that is saving the axles. When I tested mine with the diff drop it was fine. When I took them off it binded up.

That's interesting about your sway set up. I completely removed the rear bar and left on the front (still have to install the rear end links on the front). It handles amazing. I don't know if I can run w/o front bar. I have 650lb springs in front w/costal offroad front bumper & winch, and skid row skids.

 

[JZiggy]

FWIW I ran into a CV binding situation with my 1st gen 4Runner a while back. I had aftermarket CVs and the inner tulip joints were binding at full articulation. Once I get OEMs back on there the problem went away. There were reliefs cut in the OEM tulips that provided more range.

 

[phattyduck]

That's interesting about your sway set up. I completely removed the rear bar and left on the front (still have to install the rear end links on the front). It handles amazing. I don't know if I can run w/o front bar. I have 650lb springs in front w/costal offroad front bumper & winch, and skid row skids.

No front and with rear is the best way to run - most articulation total...

(4th/5th/FJ, but the same applies for us)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcgKbUTQJy8&feature=youtu.be

More info:
Toyota 4Runner Handling Modifications Addco Sway Roll Bars

I actually run a stiffer rear bar and no front these days.

-Charlie

 

[2TH4IST]

Well I guess I got more testing to do lol. Got to find my old swaybar stuff. To the garage I go lol. Ok I still got everything.

What links are you running [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] also you said stiffer rear? Is that the addco?

Eta - well call me silly, started collecting parts for a e-fan set up. Using a pwm spal fan from a 2016+ camaro it's a 18" fan, massive. Pulls around 4100-5000 cfm with the cooling stack. Soft start, ramping up etc.

 

[fourfive]

I soooo want a set of savage skids, badly. I just waited to late and he stopped making them.

Same. I'm likely going to get Doc Offroad skids which are similar to what Savage offered but think you can only get it through instagram which I don't have.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=Zhf0UmtlmsR-J-tn&v=gEhMUBGcTWY&feature=youtu.be

 

[3bears]

Well .....

Eta - well call me silly, started collecting parts for a e-fan set up. Using a pwm spal fan from a 2016+ camaro it's a 18" fan, massive. Pulls around 4100-5000 cfm with the cooling stack. Soft start, ramping up etc.

Interested how this works out. Been thinking of an electric fan

 

[phattyduck]

Well I guess I got more testing to do lol. Got to find my old swaybar stuff. To the garage I go lol. Ok I still got everything.

What links are you running [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] also you said stiffer rear? Is that the addco?

Eta - well call me silly, started collecting parts for a e-fan set up. Using a pwm spal fan from a 2016+ camaro it's a 18" fan, massive. Pulls around 4100-5000 cfm with the cooling stack. Soft start, ramping up etc.

Yeah, Addco rear, no front bar. I use front endlinks on the back - and I bet they would get really close or touch to my (still stock) lower rear links at full compression and/or articulation. I really should check with the rear springs out to make sure I don't damage anything back there. All my recent offroading has been high-speed dirt roads (rally safety car) not crawling.

I'm looking forward to someone finding a reliable and strong e-fan setup. Definitely report your results to a new thread.

-Charlie

 

[2TH4IST]

Same. I'm likely going to get Doc Offroad skids which are similar to what Savage offered but think you can only get it through instagram which I don't have.

Same I don't do social media.

Interested how this works out. Been thinking of an electric fan

I'll keep you posted how this works. I'll have to mod a aluminum shroud from a dirt late model car. But since I'm there I probably will switch to the CSF radiator. It's quite a bit thicker then the koyo aluminum rad I have now. Bonus is off the shelf parts availability, ability to turn off for water crossings.

This is the controller I'm going to use:

VARIABLE PWM FAN CONTROL works with ANY sensor, compare to Lingenfelter VSFM-002 | eBay

And shroud modded,, closest sized shroud for the 4runners radiator:

Northern Z40023 High Performanc​e Aluminum Engine Fan Shroud Kit for 31" Radiato | eBay

All my recent offroading has been high-speed dirt roads (rally safety car) not crawling.

I'm looking forward to someone finding a reliable and strong e-fan setup. Definitely report your results to a new thread.

-Charlie

Will keep you updated for sure. I'll make a new thread. Also, awesome on the rally safety car. My sister raced rally back in the day. Great to find a rally fan/worker too

 

[GhostRing]

Also, awesome on the rally safety car. My sister raced rally back in the day. Great to find a rally fan/worker too

There are dozens of us!

One of many Subies I built and co-drove back in another life.
Always a fun crowd, but nowadays I prefer a bit quieter outdoors...

 

[2TH4IST]

That's awesome! I wish I got the opportunity to drive or navigate, but alas I just fixed/serviced/towed them. But did get to do a "Monte carlo" style tsd rally in the miata, man it was a blast. 16-20+ hours of driving.

 

[2TH4IST]

Today I finished the drive train services. Drain and fill of the transfer case, rear diff. Cleaned the skids of oil, installed the extended front breather w/fuel filter in place. Then took it for a test drive. Everything was fine. No issues.

Just need to find a good alignment shop that is worth a damn. I've tried driveway alignments, but I just can't get them dialed in for some reason.

Also made a CAD version of the fridge I'm looking at, both sizes. (Cardboard aided design) smaller height is around 2.75". I'll see how it fits in the back seat with the bottom cushion remove. Plan is to have all the back seats removed for drawer/sleep platform. Also going to redo the spare mount inside. I do like the tire hanger setup, but I'm worried if it will hold the spare in case of an accident/rollover.