What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[GhostRing]

True glad someone didn't run off with it. Have had that happen more times then I care to admit. And FedEx being the worst offenders too.

I too have the axle side sway bar lift brackets. I can say for sure the addco swaybar will not fit a e-locker 3rd member without the lift brackets. If it was a inch lower it would smash the elocker motor. Addco didn't copy the stock bar bends at all. It did come with felt fuzz lined bushings. So no lube needed, which is cool. I used the front links at first. But they put the swaybar 1 inch away from the lower links, which I'm sure would smack the lower links badly, flexed out. So I put the rear end links back in and it has more clerance, but they are now at wierd angles. It's like they should have made the sway bar narrower and put the end link mounts on the inside of the frame. Either way, I see bad contact in my future. Just not feeling to hot today, otherwise I'd pull the springs and check for issues under flex.

Pic is with front links on rear.

Wishing anti-sway bars were easy to modify, but alas...
Still entertaining frame bracket relocation, but not sure that is a solution.

 

[2TH4IST]

Wishing anti-sway bars were easy to modify, but alas...

I'm thinking of having the swaybar cold bent. At the ends, there is that kink, it needs to go the other direction, or be completely straightened. Then I could relocate the mounting tabs to the inside of the frame and clear the lower links. I wish I had the room to mount a anti-rock swaybar.

 

[RogueWaive]

if your daughter si going to school in cali, but you live elsewhere, cant you keep the car registered in your state and not worry about the cali laws. Years ago my brother in law went to school in cali for 2 years and did not remove his oregon plates

Dont know how it works in your area, but here i see all kind of different state plates from either school kids or service members

We may want her to get residency for in-state tuition after the first year.

It's tough because we're from Santa Cruz. But she was born in Oregon. Despite tons of family roots for generations in California, literally millions in taxes between us all, her parents are no longer California residents. And our 4.0 student... doesn't want to go to college in Oregon. After all her hard work, it's tough to deny her that.

Hoping for a scholarship!

 

[aatheiss]

Finished the Satoshi grill mod. Other recent upgrades include window tint, front wheel bearings, and Bilstein suspension lift.

 

[RogueWaive]

Finished the Satoshi grill mod. Other recent upgrades include window tint, front wheel bearings, and Bilstein suspension lift.

Yeah, that's pretty sweet. 4Runners rule!

 

[phattyduck]

Shoot. I wish I'da' seen this before I ordered from Amazon. Even with shipping, RockAuto's price is about a buck lower. And... I'm guessing... less concern about a counterfeit.

There's a good chance this rig may end up in Cali when my daughter goes to College, so I definitely want the AFR. But do you think the non-Cali O2 sensor would deliver the same performance, i.e. same mileage?

Oh, it isn't about the law. The AFR sensor and O2 sensor send completely different signals to the ECU. I thought I already made that clear. You have to get the correct one for your ECU / emissions configuration.

If you got an O2 sensor or spark plug from Amazon, assume it is counterfeit and throw it away. Use a local supplier (parts store), RockAuto or other reliable online source (so, basically anything but Amazon or eBay).

-Charlie

 

[RogueWaive]

Oh, it isn't about the law. The AFR sensor and O2 sensor send completely different signals to the ECU. I thought I already made that clear. You have to get the correct one for your ECU / emissions configuration.

If you did make that clear, I missed it. I only recall you saying the AFR was the right part. I never had any intention of putting in anything but the right part. I was just curious when you said some guys are fudging and getting an O2 sensor instead. I just wondered what kind of detriment that would or could have for those guys.

If you got an O2 sensor or spark plug from Amazon, assume it is counterfeit and throw it away. Use a local supplier (parts store), RockAuto or other reliable online source (so, basically anything but Amazon or eBay).


-Charlie

Well crap. They're scheduled for delivery Wednesday. I plan to perform the swap the following week. I imagine RockAuto can get them here in time.

I'll take a close look first and plan to return them. I was encouraged when the Amazon prices were almost identical to RockAuto's with shipping.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

I was encouraged when the Amazon prices were almost identical to RockAuto's with shipping.

The reason Charlie (correctly) said not to trust Amazon is that you just never know the origin of what you're getting. Amazon pools together parts from all sellers who supply a particular SKU, or FNSKU in Amazon-speak. So some parts may be legit, others may be fakes, and you as the buyer will never know. The only exception is if you buy a FNSKU that is authorized to be supplied by only one seller, but that is rare (Spiker Engineering products on Amazon are one such example ).

For example, I recently knowingly bought a counterfeit navigation screen from Aliexpress, because a genuine Toshiba one is not available. It actually has a sticker on it that says Made in Japan, as you can see in the listing photo. It works fine, but I had to chuckle at how they spelled "Made in Japan":

 

[phattyduck]

If you did make that clear, I missed it. I only recall you saying the AFR was the right part. I never had any intention of putting in anything but the right part. I was just curious when you said some guys are fudging and getting an O2 sensor instead. I just wondered what kind of detriment that would or could have for those guys.

It won't fit - wrong plug, wrong length and wrong signal. They would be quite disappointed when they try to install.



-Charlie

 

[RogueWaive]

The reason Charlie (correctly) said not to trust Amazon is that you just never know the origin of what you're getting. Amazon pools together parts from all sellers who supply a particular SKU, or FNSKU in Amazon-speak. So some parts may be legit, others may be fakes, and you as the buyer will never know. The only exception is if you buy a FNSKU that is authorized to be supplied by only one seller, but that is rare (Spiker Engineering products on Amazon are one such example ).

For example, I recently knowingly bought a counterfeit navigation screen from Aliexpress, because a genuine Toshiba one is not available. It actually has a sticker on it that says Made in Japan, as you can see in the listing photo. It works fine, but I had to chuckle at how they spelled "Made in Japan":

Ha!

Japna.

Is that maybe one of the islands in "The Jappans," as the anjin in Shogun might say?

Not sure if this is what you meant, but the seller and shipper were both Amazon. Lots of reviews and nearly all positive. Some with photos that show them looking identical. Like you said, a bit of a dice roll. But I cant think of ever having a problem when the seller/shipper is Amazon.

I can tell you, they are not lightweight. And according to my research, they came in the appropriate Denso boxes. Seems like quite an effort for a counterfeit, to me. Does it to you?
.

 

[RogueWaive]

It won't fit - wrong plug, wrong length and wrong signal. They would be quite disappointed when they try to install.



-Charlie

Ah

Yeah. For most everything, only the OEM will do for me.

Many years ago my Kenmore dryer kept blowing overheat fuses.

I finally determined I had gone with an aftermarket element that had a thinner wire... and likely heated up faster than the fuses were designed for. Switched back to OEM and never had the problem again.

I'd be interested to hear your take on my reply to Spiker Engineering with the photo of the parts.

 

[2TH4IST]

I also have a Cali emission 4runner. I had to buy the Cali afr sensor, but I got it through rockauto w/their discount code. Yeah it costs more, but it is what it is.

I've been burned by Amazon to many times. It's just cheap stuff I buy from them now. Otherwise I buy from the manufacture or a authorized dealer, even if I have to pay more. One of the worst one was a trijicon RMR. It was sold/shipped from amazon. It had a legit case and s/n on case but it was a horrific fake, with the same s/n on the fake. I had to go to hell and back to get a refund. After that, I now do what I said above.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Not sure if this is what you meant, but the seller and shipper were both Amazon. Lots of reviews and nearly all positive. Some with photos that show them looking identical. Like you said, a bit of a dice roll. But I cant think of ever having a problem when the seller/shipper is Amazon.

That doesn't mean anything. All that tells you is that it'll ship from an Amazon warehouse, where they'll pool all items they receive from different sellers under this FNSKU (Amazon obviously doesn't actually make anything). Some items may be legit, others will not be, but you will never know (unless you know how to tell a real one from a fake, in which case you can of course return it).

I can tell you, they are not lightweight. And according to my research, they came in the appropriate Denso boxes. Seems like quite an effort for a counterfeit, to me. Does it to you?

Look at this listing for a Chinese "version" of a NIssan MAF - particularly the last picture, with a "Genuine Nissan Part" and "Made in Japan" written on it. And look at the price.

Or look at this offering of the "Denso" AFR that you're after. You think that's genuine Denso?

 

[RogueWaive]

That doesn't mean anything. All that tells you is that it'll ship from an Amazon warehouse, where they'll pool all items they receive from different sellers under this FNSKU (Amazon obviously doesn't actually make anything). Some items may be legit, others will not be, but you will never know (unless you know how to tell a real one from a fake, in which case you can of course return it).

Roger that. Thanks!

Look at this listing for a Chinese "version" of a NIssan MAF - particularly the last picture, with a "Genuine Nissan Part" and "Made in Japan" written on it. And look at the price.

Or look at this offering of the "Denso" AFR that you're after. You think that's genuine Denso?

Yeah, visually, that "Denso" part does look pretty identical to the OEM. The only thing I will say is... I don't know what the box for the OEM Nissan part looks like in comparison. And no box photo was displayed for that 4153.

Online research shows the boxes I received are identical. But then... if they can visually fake the part so well... I suppose they could fake the box.

There are a whole bunch of aftermarket units listed on Amazon for about half the price of the one (the only one) that's advertised as Denso. Could be a bunch of sellers peddling the one you quoted above. But at least they're not calling theirs OEM or Denso.

 

[RogueWaive]

I also have a Cali emission 4runner. I had to buy the Cali afr sensor, but I got it through rockauto w/their discount code. Yeah it costs more, but it is what it is.

I've been burned by Amazon to many times. It's just cheap stuff I buy from them now. Otherwise I buy from the manufacture or a authorized dealer, even if I have to pay more. One of the worst one was a trijicon RMR. It was sold/shipped from amazon. It had a legit case and s/n on case but it was a horrific fake, with the same s/n on the fake. I had to go to hell and back to get a refund. After that, I now do what I said above.

Yeah, I wish I would have known about RockAuto beforehand. Denso didn't list them as one of their online options. Folks on here seem to feel their parts are legit, even though they're priced at about half of the links on the Denso page.

 

[JoeT4R]

I drove mine yesterday for like the first time in a week... will roll 342K sometime next month I imagine.

 

[RogueWaive]

That doesn't mean anything. All that tells you is that it'll ship from an Amazon warehouse, where they'll pool all items they receive from different sellers under this FNSKU (Amazon obviously doesn't actually make anything). Some items may be legit, others will not be, but you will never know (unless you know how to tell a real one from a fake, in which case you can of course return it).



Look at this listing for a Chinese "version" of a NIssan MAF - particularly the last picture, with a "Genuine Nissan Part" and "Made in Japan" written on it. And look at the price.

Or look at this offering of the "Denso" AFR that you're after. You think that's genuine Denso?

Got the pair from RockAuto today. Looks like my dice roll with Amazon was successful. Same boxes. Parts and packaging look identical and the parts weigh exactly the same down to the tenth of an ounce.

With two exceptions

The boxes come in 2 shades of blue. The Amazon boxes came in two shades. And the RockAuto came in the same 2 shades. Only the reverse for the given part numbers. You can see the lighter shades on the bottom and the darker on top in the photo below.

And the metal tops, where the wires come out, are slightly shinier on the RockAutos.

If anything, I prefer the slightly greater length of "insulation wrap" around the wires. Though I would prefer they were all protected 100% of the way.

My research here on the site suggests RockAuto is generally to be trusted. But I can't help but wonder why. They're not listed as a retailer on the Denso site.

Either way, the packaging on these do not smack of your typical counterfeits. So I suspect they are all likely legit Denso OEM. I will be sending the Amazon units back... basically on a coin flip. Based on my expenditures to returns ratio... I will have zero guilt for doing this to "poor Jeff."

RockAuto on the left. Amazon on the right...
.

 

[2TH4IST]

Needed a rest from the local trail. And bit the bullet drove 2.5 hours one way to the Bradshaw trail. The trail was cool. Very low desert scrub brush scenery with nice colored mountains in the hue of reds and greens. Very pretty. But to be honest, the desert just doesn't refresh me like the mountains do. It is what it is. I still enjoyed the trail and scenery and drive. 390 miles round trip, 21mgp w/tailwind to trail. 14 mpg on trail, 16 mpg driving home w/ac and bad headwind.

Side by sides have torn the trail badly. Lots of odd width ruts. And a huge land rover group too. Only issue I had was I'm leaking cv grease. I think it might be the clamps I put on. When I was messing with the cv's I found there was practically no grease in them. So I re-greased them and put "universal" clamps on, which I think suck lol.

 

[GhostRing]

Only issue I had was I'm leaking cv grease. I think it might be the clamps I put on. When I was messing with the cv's I found there was practically no grease in them. So I re-greased them and put "universal" clamps on, which I think suck lol.

What clamps are you using?
I've been using Muzzy's worm drive style w/rolled edges
in conjunction with my boot stretch mod. Seem to be holding up well.
But props to the cable tie that lasted a year and a half!

 

[2TH4IST]

Yes actually I just ordered the muzzy's worm drive clamps lol. Thanks for the link!

El chepos from chinazon. They are the typical clamp type, but I had a hard time not ripping off the gripping teeth.