Endlessblockades
Senior Member
That looks like a super fun jaunt! How were your temps?
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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That looks like a super fun jaunt! How were your temps?
bullshawrk
New member
Got the manual crank part and the metal piece got it to work again smoothly!
Just need to figure out whats wrong with the back window now
picantesauce
Junior Member
phattyduck
Elite Member
Looks like an SR5 with the "sport" package (wide flares). Like the windows were swapped to manual, so you will have plenty of investigation to get to the bottom of whatever is happening there.
-Charlie
2TH4IST
Member
[MENTION=373697]Endlessblockades[/MENTION]
Temps were good. Engine stayed a solid 190, trans never above 180. Hood vents let lots of hot air to pump out.
Went on another trail run on Friday. My usual trail, has good scenery and is chill. Well, the rain we got a few weeks ago really damaged the trail. It doesn't help a fire went through there earlier this year. So the water crossing areas were really damaged. I hope they are able to repair the trail, but all it needs is one more good rain and I think the trail is done for. They still haven't repaired anything from hurricane Hillary.
There was a wash out about 400 feet long and completely took out the trail, water looked to be about 15 to 20 feed deep. Lots of logs, giant rocks, soft mud. I just hope this trail gets fixed. I don't want to loose it.
Temps were good. Engine stayed a solid 190, trans never above 180. Hood vents let lots of hot air to pump out.
Went on another trail run on Friday. My usual trail, has good scenery and is chill. Well, the rain we got a few weeks ago really damaged the trail. It doesn't help a fire went through there earlier this year. So the water crossing areas were really damaged. I hope they are able to repair the trail, but all it needs is one more good rain and I think the trail is done for. They still haven't repaired anything from hurricane Hillary.
There was a wash out about 400 feet long and completely took out the trail, water looked to be about 15 to 20 feed deep. Lots of logs, giant rocks, soft mud. I just hope this trail gets fixed. I don't want to loose it.
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walkercars2
New member
Worked on it for about 5 hours straight, that’s just the life
picantesauce
Junior Member
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Decided to grease the driveline u-joints and the JBA control arms. Unfortunately my grease gun decided not to cooperate. Upon inspection, I found that the normally tacky Sta-lube Molygraph grease transformed into a hard consistency, similar to dried playdoh:
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/1v6yjOu" data-context="false" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/1v6yjOu"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Honestly I've never seen anything like this before with a synthetic grease.
Anyway, with some new Sta-Lube Molygraph EP MP lithium grease in the gun, I lubed the JBA arm ball joints and bushings, as well as the driveline zerks (except the rear slip yoke, which I disassembled and lubed with Ford's XG-8 PTFE grease).
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/1v6yjOu" data-context="false" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/1v6yjOu"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Honestly I've never seen anything like this before with a synthetic grease.
Anyway, with some new Sta-Lube Molygraph EP MP lithium grease in the gun, I lubed the JBA arm ball joints and bushings, as well as the driveline zerks (except the rear slip yoke, which I disassembled and lubed with Ford's XG-8 PTFE grease).
2TH4IST
Member
Gave forest a much needed bath! Now he's all squeaky clean with massive trail pin striping. Cleaned off the dust from the interior. Also replaced my blown out hatch lift supports. Went with the tuff added pressure, and man it opens the hatch with a vengeance now. Awesome. Also installed a Amazon special obd2 T adapter. Tired of unplugging the scan gauge to check PID's, works great with my Bluetooth obd2 reader.
Ordered up some more scratch and dent cross bar and mounting accessories from sherpa to fortify my roof rack system.
Also found out my right side of my steering rack is starting to leak. Sigh. Well can't be upset with it, 249k miles and 25 years of turning wheels, it's starting to fail. So ordered up a new rack from ourisman and oem outer tie rod ends. Was not expecting that expense. And my cat needed a vet visit, thankfully he only had chest congestion (I'm more worried about my cat then the sleep platform). So with these 2 expenses, ate up my funding for the sleep/storage build, so it will need to wait another month or 2.
[MENTION=636945]Spiker Engineering[/MENTION] I've seen that, actually it happens to me a lot of times regarding the grease. Heat usually causes the oil in the grease to weep. Then the grease hardens to a thick paste. I'm currently running a locknlube easy prime grease gun, so far zero issues with leakage. And I too, greased the driveline this weekend.
Ordered up some more scratch and dent cross bar and mounting accessories from sherpa to fortify my roof rack system.
Also found out my right side of my steering rack is starting to leak. Sigh. Well can't be upset with it, 249k miles and 25 years of turning wheels, it's starting to fail. So ordered up a new rack from ourisman and oem outer tie rod ends. Was not expecting that expense. And my cat needed a vet visit, thankfully he only had chest congestion (I'm more worried about my cat then the sleep platform). So with these 2 expenses, ate up my funding for the sleep/storage build, so it will need to wait another month or 2.
[MENTION=636945]Spiker Engineering[/MENTION] I've seen that, actually it happens to me a lot of times regarding the grease. Heat usually causes the oil in the grease to weep. Then the grease hardens to a thick paste. I'm currently running a locknlube easy prime grease gun, so far zero issues with leakage. And I too, greased the driveline this weekend.
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Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Hopefully the orange tabby is all good now - you have priorities straight! We took our tuxedo guy to the vet today for a checkup - in the 4Runner of course
.The locknlube gun looks like an interesting concept, I may check it out. I'm not at all happy with my Steinbrucke gun, so maybe it's time for an upgrade.
Attempted to diagnose a new ticking sound. I'm now even less sure what it could be.
I recently took off the intake assembly to replace my fuel injectors. I was attempting to reduce or eliminate the occasional engine bog at highway speeds going uphill (4-cyl automatic doesn't have any spare power, but I didn't think flooring it at 60-70mph was supposed to bleed speed that much). I was also looking for signs of what could cause a pulsing hiss on the intake side somewhere, and while I was at it, I replaced my fuel filter and cleaned out the intake ports, throttle body, and everything in between.
During disassembly I noticed the PCV grommet was torn, which I wonder if that may have caused my hissing sound. Regardless, easy enough to replace that grommet and definitely necessary. Fuel filter replacement was the easiest thing ever with the intake assembly removed. The intake ports were very dirty, and I did my best to clean them with valve & carb cleaner and a shop vac to try and get everything out, being especially careful with cylinder #2 which had the valves open on the intake stroke.
I also took the IAC off to clean since the gasket kit I got for the throttle body included one. That may have been a mistake... I partially stripped the head of one of the four screws, but managed to get it fairly clean and reassembled to the throttle body.
Everything went back together fairly well and easy with the exception of the #4 injector cup, that was a bear to get seated. After checking and double checking everything was bolted, torqued, vacuum hoses reattached at the right ports, etc. I started her up. Took around 10 seconds of cranking for the fuel to get through the empty lines and new filter, but it started up fairly well! While looking for any leaks, I only found one connector I had missed, the lower plug on the IAC which I quickly connected. Then as the engine warmed up and the RPM lowered to normal idle, I noticed the ticking.
I'm not an expert at the various causes of engine ticks and how they sound compared to each other, but I can tell it's on the intake side, and seems to be louder towards the back of the engine. I tried disconnecting each injector plug one at a time, but that didn't eliminate the tick. However, when I tried to use a long screwdriver to "listen" to the injectors and the engine block by the intake ports, it seems like the tick IS coming from the injectors.
I was hoping to avoid taking everything apart again to check valve lash, but then I noticed a drip under the throttle body. It looks like the gasket and coolant lines to and from the IAC are all leaking.
The good news is my pulsing hiss has not returned. My guess is that was the PCV grommet. Unless, the pulsing hiss was one or more intake valve not seating fully when closed, and the gunk was sealing up most of the gap. When I cleaned out the gunk, the gap is now open and causing a tick?
There goes my planned camping trip next week.
I recently took off the intake assembly to replace my fuel injectors. I was attempting to reduce or eliminate the occasional engine bog at highway speeds going uphill (4-cyl automatic doesn't have any spare power, but I didn't think flooring it at 60-70mph was supposed to bleed speed that much). I was also looking for signs of what could cause a pulsing hiss on the intake side somewhere, and while I was at it, I replaced my fuel filter and cleaned out the intake ports, throttle body, and everything in between.
During disassembly I noticed the PCV grommet was torn, which I wonder if that may have caused my hissing sound. Regardless, easy enough to replace that grommet and definitely necessary. Fuel filter replacement was the easiest thing ever with the intake assembly removed. The intake ports were very dirty, and I did my best to clean them with valve & carb cleaner and a shop vac to try and get everything out, being especially careful with cylinder #2 which had the valves open on the intake stroke.
I also took the IAC off to clean since the gasket kit I got for the throttle body included one. That may have been a mistake... I partially stripped the head of one of the four screws, but managed to get it fairly clean and reassembled to the throttle body.
Everything went back together fairly well and easy with the exception of the #4 injector cup, that was a bear to get seated. After checking and double checking everything was bolted, torqued, vacuum hoses reattached at the right ports, etc. I started her up. Took around 10 seconds of cranking for the fuel to get through the empty lines and new filter, but it started up fairly well! While looking for any leaks, I only found one connector I had missed, the lower plug on the IAC which I quickly connected. Then as the engine warmed up and the RPM lowered to normal idle, I noticed the ticking.
I'm not an expert at the various causes of engine ticks and how they sound compared to each other, but I can tell it's on the intake side, and seems to be louder towards the back of the engine. I tried disconnecting each injector plug one at a time, but that didn't eliminate the tick. However, when I tried to use a long screwdriver to "listen" to the injectors and the engine block by the intake ports, it seems like the tick IS coming from the injectors.
I was hoping to avoid taking everything apart again to check valve lash, but then I noticed a drip under the throttle body. It looks like the gasket and coolant lines to and from the IAC are all leaking.
The good news is my pulsing hiss has not returned. My guess is that was the PCV grommet. Unless, the pulsing hiss was one or more intake valve not seating fully when closed, and the gunk was sealing up most of the gap. When I cleaned out the gunk, the gap is now open and causing a tick?
There goes my planned camping trip next week.
ketamine_karl
New member
Burnt out my oem bushings and installed energy suspension ones.
fourfive
Senior Member
Replaced my driverside seatbelt with a new one from Toyota because the original started to fray.
If I remember correctly it was (3) 14mm bolts torqued to 30ft/lbs, (1) 10mm bolt torqued to 71in/lbs & (1) electrical connector.
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/Cw8p9Et" data-context="false" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/Cw8p9Et"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
The electrical connector has a white plastic tab that needs to be flipped up to unplug it.
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/3bHCw93" data-context="false" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/3bHCw93"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/VuRlqDt" data-context="false" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/VuRlqDt"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
If I remember correctly it was (3) 14mm bolts torqued to 30ft/lbs, (1) 10mm bolt torqued to 71in/lbs & (1) electrical connector.
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/Cw8p9Et" data-context="false" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/Cw8p9Et"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
The electrical connector has a white plastic tab that needs to be flipped up to unplug it.
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/3bHCw93" data-context="false" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/3bHCw93"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/VuRlqDt" data-context="false" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/VuRlqDt"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
HMGT4R
Member
infamousRNR
Senior Member
what was the part number on that bad boy?...
was it 7322035490E0 ???
also where did you buy it from? cheapest I could find was $275 plus shipping..
.
heat
Member
AlfiT4R
Junior Member
Axle seals blew, and wheel bearings exploded on highway. Taking this as always an opportunity for improving things. Ordered everything to retrofit a 4.10 elocker into my RWD '00 today, 2 weeks til the fun begins!
LKQ axle housing (cheaper than diff for some reason), new brake shoes, TEQ rear breather relocater, 10 pin rocker switch with 2 leds for illumination + activated, and OEM earings and seals from Amayama
LKQ axle housing (cheaper than diff for some reason), new brake shoes, TEQ rear breather relocater, 10 pin rocker switch with 2 leds for illumination + activated, and OEM earings and seals from Amayama
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