What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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fourfive
Senior Member
Part number is 73220-35491-B1. I bought it online through Cobb County Toyota but had to pick it up in person. I forgot the reason why but it was something about it being a seatbelt. I don't remember how much I paid but it wasn't cheap. Pretty sure I got it during a 20-25% off sale which helped.
habanero
Senior Member
Prolly the explodey bit, Toyota shipped the belt for my 96, which doesn't have it.
5VZ-FE
Member
We got a mint '99 Limited at the local Pick n Pull and I think I was one of the first to get there. Scored a bunch of bits and bobs but what I was most excited about was the turn/headlight stalk with the fog light selector.
I've been hunting for one of these ever since I read this thread a few years ago, but didn't want to shell out the $120+. So I swapped it out and added the requisite relay.
Then tested for power at the deutsch connectors next to the turn signals.
Voila. Now I just have to find some auxiliary lighting solutions I like.
P.S. If anyone wants a perfectly good non-fog stalk let me know...
P.P.S. Does anyone know what the other (black) connector is for?
I've been hunting for one of these ever since I read this thread a few years ago, but didn't want to shell out the $120+. So I swapped it out and added the requisite relay.
Then tested for power at the deutsch connectors next to the turn signals.
Voila. Now I just have to find some auxiliary lighting solutions I like.
P.S. If anyone wants a perfectly good non-fog stalk let me know...
P.P.S. Does anyone know what the other (black) connector is for?
AlfiT4R
Junior Member
We got a mint '99 Limited at the local Pick n Pull and I think I was one of the first to get there. Scored a bunch of bits and bobs but what I was most excited about was the turn/headlight stalk with the fog light selector.
I've been hunting for one of these ever since I read this thread a few years ago, but didn't want to shell out the $120+. So I swapped it out and added the requisite relay.
Then tested for power at the deutsch connectors next to the turn signals.
Voila. Now I just have to find some auxiliary lighting solutions I like.
P.S. If anyone wants a perfectly good non-fog stalk let me know...
P.P.S. Does anyone know what the other (black) connector is for?
You can find some well-priced OE salvage fog lights on car-part.com from some salvage yards, most will ship it out for a small fee, and offer partial credit if lens is scratched etc. I looked and couldn't find any non white LED fog light options when I searched (for ~2 inch diameter lenses), so that's the route I went when I retrofitted them a few weeks ago, I'm curious to see what you come up with!
Bump for the other connector, not sure what it does either
5VZ-FE
Member
Thanks. That's what I would go with, but I actually have a '96-'98 bumper and valance on my '99 so the factory fog lights would have nowhere to go. There are some nice horizontal gaps in the lower valance that I think would accommodate a 4"-6" light bar so I might look into that, just have to make sure the current draw is within limits. Just another reason to get a plate bumper that matches the rear...
Oh interesting. I wonder if there's a simple way to integrate it into an SR5 dash that looks OEM. I use OBDII intake air temp to get an approximate outside temp but its incredibly inaccurate.
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phattyduck
Elite Member
No, but I did use that connector (slightly modified) for the exterior temps sensor for the JDM Field Monitor... You do have to add wires on the interior side of the harness to connect to anything in the cab (only the Limited has those wires installed in the factory dash harness).
-Charlie
fourfive
Senior Member
"explodey bit" sounds way less threatening lol.
zacnelms2027
New member
I took it to a muffler shop and realized the catalytic converter had been removed a long time ago and that I have a small hole in my exhaust. So, hellooooooo Flowmasters. Also, is it work it to install a catalytic converter?
Jdm4Runner1789!
New member
AlfiT4R
Junior Member
Removed rear diff, drilled, tapped, and grinded out the housing for an Elocker 4.30 retrofit on my rwd. It fit in after I cut, but before I tapped and installed studs, tomorrow I fit it in and hope and pray it all fits together happily lol. Writeup with wiring to a custom switch pending 
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TylerT252525
New member
Fighting a lack of power in my 5vf after swapping motors into my 2001 4runner. Its driving me crazy lol
2TH4IST
Member
Well had an interesting thing happen to the 4runner. While driving, the engine warms up fine and drives good going slight down hill to work. Not a ton of load on the engine. Now driving home its all slightly up hill. While driving my coolant Temps will hit 198 to 200 while at speed on streets. Odd. Even with tems in the low 60's. But at a stop Temps drop to normal 190ish. And getting bad milage too at around 10 mpg's in the city. I used to get 14ish mpg's. There is pressure in the cooling system. Other then that and the bad mpg's, it drives perfectly.
No other issues, freeway speeds, 190ish. Off road with max load on engine, 190 to 195.
Okay, so easiest thing to try is the t-stat. I have an oem toyota 170 degree t-stat, so I swapped that in. Drove it for a week, Temps between 175 to 182. Mpg's bumped up 1 mpg to 11.
Absolutely forgot to test the old t-stat. So into a pot of boiling water. Doesn't even begin to Crack open until 192 degrees. So I ordered both a aisin t-stat and another oem t-stat. Got them today, and before I did anything, into boiling water they both go. The aisin unit started to open at 180 on the dot, the new oem opened around 182, close enough. Took it to max opening around 200 degrees. The oem opened much bigger then the aisin unit.
So I can put the aisin unit in and get it to begin to open at 180 or the oem that will open more if it gets hotter.
Needless to say, my moderately new oem t-stat failed as it would not crack open at the right temp.
Only other thing I could think might be a bad water pump, which I put on back when I did the t/b 6 years ago or so.
ETA - the advertised Temps on t-stats it when the t-stat should START to open, and usually 20 degrees more should be fully open.
No other issues, freeway speeds, 190ish. Off road with max load on engine, 190 to 195.
Okay, so easiest thing to try is the t-stat. I have an oem toyota 170 degree t-stat, so I swapped that in. Drove it for a week, Temps between 175 to 182. Mpg's bumped up 1 mpg to 11.
Absolutely forgot to test the old t-stat. So into a pot of boiling water. Doesn't even begin to Crack open until 192 degrees. So I ordered both a aisin t-stat and another oem t-stat. Got them today, and before I did anything, into boiling water they both go. The aisin unit started to open at 180 on the dot, the new oem opened around 182, close enough. Took it to max opening around 200 degrees. The oem opened much bigger then the aisin unit.
So I can put the aisin unit in and get it to begin to open at 180 or the oem that will open more if it gets hotter.
Needless to say, my moderately new oem t-stat failed as it would not crack open at the right temp.
Only other thing I could think might be a bad water pump, which I put on back when I did the t/b 6 years ago or so.
ETA - the advertised Temps on t-stats it when the t-stat should START to open, and usually 20 degrees more should be fully open.
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cascade123
New member
I checked it over, gave my truck a quick clean, and made sure it’s running smoothly.
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
As fellow sufferer of oddball temp fluctuations, and having done everything I could think of short of a water pump to get back to normal temps, I proactively swapped in an new OEM heater control valve this afternoon. Why? Because my heating system has become an important part of my cooling system and I don't want the original unit to fail in the middle ofnowhere. When I drive slow, and on most hills, the heater needs to be cranking to stay under 200 degrees. If I'm above 50MPH, all is well. 188.6 degrees. New water pump and TB, et., will be done in early December. I'm on T-Stat #4, Koyorad radiator, and a custom fan clutch that runs longer and louder over a wider range of temps than the stock one does. I know I shouldn't have to do any of this, but I am only human.
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BeachinBill
Junior Member
Headlight adjustment
Been working on a front bumper repair and in the final stages. Hoping someone could help me realign my headlight?
It seems like the bottom of headlight needs to be pushed out a little bit. There is more room between the housing and lamp on the unaffected side and the filler piece below it sticks out too far as currently assembled.
What pushes against the spring in the housing that is pulling the bottom of the headlight back in?
Been working on a front bumper repair and in the final stages. Hoping someone could help me realign my headlight?
It seems like the bottom of headlight needs to be pushed out a little bit. There is more room between the housing and lamp on the unaffected side and the filler piece below it sticks out too far as currently assembled.
What pushes against the spring in the housing that is pulling the bottom of the headlight back in?
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2TH4IST
Member
[MENTION=373697]Endlessblockades[/MENTION] yeah I feel you. I do think it is either a t-stat or w/p issue. My heat blasts hot, but I don't use it as my temps don't get too high yet. I wish I could find a 175/178 degree t-stat. But I'll keep looking for that.
I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a w/p. I don't know if I'll go oem of aisin (what's in there now). It's been about 5-6 years since I did the t/b & w/p.
The thing that got me going down this rout was when I was driving home from work. It was 58 outside. 45 mph and uphill. Engine rpm's were around 1800 rpm's. Temp hit 198 then 200 degrees. When I got home the lower radiator hose was ice cold. I let it idle for 5 more mins, still ice cold. It had pressure, and heaters worked.
Could this be a over cooling or to efficent radiator. Possibly. IE it cools the coolant way to fast, not letting the t-stat function as it should. Slowly open and slowly close. But honestly I don't know if that's what I have as 2/3 of my radiator is blocked by my plate bumper/winch.
Swapped in a 170 degree t-stat. Temps stay below 182 degrees and lower hose is warm after driving home in similar temps.
I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a w/p. I don't know if I'll go oem of aisin (what's in there now). It's been about 5-6 years since I did the t/b & w/p.
The thing that got me going down this rout was when I was driving home from work. It was 58 outside. 45 mph and uphill. Engine rpm's were around 1800 rpm's. Temp hit 198 then 200 degrees. When I got home the lower radiator hose was ice cold. I let it idle for 5 more mins, still ice cold. It had pressure, and heaters worked.
Could this be a over cooling or to efficent radiator. Possibly. IE it cools the coolant way to fast, not letting the t-stat function as it should. Slowly open and slowly close. But honestly I don't know if that's what I have as 2/3 of my radiator is blocked by my plate bumper/winch.
Swapped in a 170 degree t-stat. Temps stay below 182 degrees and lower hose is warm after driving home in similar temps.
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