What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
- Thread starter pin8246
- Start date
spartacus
Senior Member
That's a surprise. Add co is beefier then stock.
JustTroItIn
Member
Fluid Film treatment of the frame and under carriage in preparation for winter.
4RunAffairs
Junior Member
Finished a working prototype for an inclinometer dev project I’ve been thinking about for a couple years now! Always wished the 3rd gens had them. I installed the overhead monitor 4-5 years ago and now I need even more green and amber lights. In other words, more cowbell.
Also finished the design for the screen, it will look a little more like the VFD lights of the overhead unit once the new screen arrives.
Also finished the design for the screen, it will look a little more like the VFD lights of the overhead unit once the new screen arrives.
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irideforthebrand
Junior Member
u said u have drive line noise, could it be u joints on the drive shaft?
AuSeeker
Elite Member
The post you quoted is 15 years old, the member who posted it hasn't been on the forum in 9 years, you will not get a response from him.
TracyNorton
Member
So did mine (Addco 1")...a couple years ago....I unbolted it and left it out in the middle of the desert....and just use limit straps.
I am about to take a ball peen to my AEM wb AFR gauge..........yes, I will feel better. I only use that POS as a spot check for lean out anyway.
2TH4IST
Member
They did warranty the sway bar, wish I had took measurements from the old one, seems they might have did some improvements, I know the bushings and mounts have been beefed up. I too have never been happy with aem gauges. Now if I need serious gauges I cough up the $ for stack. We ran those on all our rally cars, my miata, and a 1j swapped Cressida I had years ago. But I think autometer might have bought them out.
irideforthebrand
Junior Member
its for people who look at it later,
TracyNorton
Member
Mine broke in same place as you show in your pics. But I discovered my truck handles better offroad w/o it. Scares other drivers in town when I corner hard (deliberately...lol).
I'm trying to find better gauge set. AEM's tech help is questionable at best. I'm not broke, so I'd certainly pay for a GOOD gauge set
Finished the refurbishment work I started on 08/20/2026 on the front suspension (upper control arms, upper ball joint, lower ball joint, front sway bar links and bushings) by having a shop replace the front lower control arms with OEMs.
1998 T4R Limited. 350,297 miles. Original control arms.
After replacing everything else in the wear and tear category on the front suspension, I'd still get the squeaking/creaking sound going over slow dips/bumps, especially traveling over them on a bias angle with a noticeable amount of loose wiggle. In the last week, I'd start hearing what I thought was occasional metal on metal contact in addition to the squeaking.
Afterwards, quiet and very tight. Attempts to mimic driving a slalom course left and right was tight and quiet.
About $1,200 for labor (replacement and wheel alignment). Bought the OEM lower control arm assemblies from Fredericksburg VA Toyota online and picked up in person to save on shipping. Also bought the toe plates, camber plates, and the bolt that goes through them, but the original's condition was good to not rate replacing them.
I'd like to post the pre- and post-refurbishment wheel alignment measurements for anyone who's got an opinion as to whether the degree of out of alignment would be considered typical, excessive, or not as bad for a vehicle with this amount of mileage:
TOE
LF Before: -0.74 LF After: 0.10
RF Before: 2.43 RF After 0.13
CAMBER
LF Before: -0.02 LF After: 0.04
RF Before: 0.72 RF After: 0.28
CASTER
LF Before: 1.49 LF After: 2.16
RF Before: 1.23 RF After: 2.14
Last alignment was on 09/2023.
How often do you do a wheel alignment to check if things are getting out of spec? I have a lifetime Firestone wheel alignment, so I could do so with time spent waiting being my only "cost."
1998 T4R Limited. 350,297 miles. Original control arms.
After replacing everything else in the wear and tear category on the front suspension, I'd still get the squeaking/creaking sound going over slow dips/bumps, especially traveling over them on a bias angle with a noticeable amount of loose wiggle. In the last week, I'd start hearing what I thought was occasional metal on metal contact in addition to the squeaking.
Afterwards, quiet and very tight. Attempts to mimic driving a slalom course left and right was tight and quiet.
About $1,200 for labor (replacement and wheel alignment). Bought the OEM lower control arm assemblies from Fredericksburg VA Toyota online and picked up in person to save on shipping. Also bought the toe plates, camber plates, and the bolt that goes through them, but the original's condition was good to not rate replacing them.
I'd like to post the pre- and post-refurbishment wheel alignment measurements for anyone who's got an opinion as to whether the degree of out of alignment would be considered typical, excessive, or not as bad for a vehicle with this amount of mileage:
TOE
LF Before: -0.74 LF After: 0.10
RF Before: 2.43 RF After 0.13
CAMBER
LF Before: -0.02 LF After: 0.04
RF Before: 0.72 RF After: 0.28
CASTER
LF Before: 1.49 LF After: 2.16
RF Before: 1.23 RF After: 2.14
Last alignment was on 09/2023.
How often do you do a wheel alignment to check if things are getting out of spec? I have a lifetime Firestone wheel alignment, so I could do so with time spent waiting being my only "cost."
