What did you do with your 4runner today?

Well, it does concern me because we frequent the same areas of the forum. I've tried to ignore your posts, but it tells me, "I can't ignore moderators." I could skip over them, but then I'd be skipping half the 4th Gen section. Of course, this isn't your concern either I suppose

Not quite my concern. I stay on topic and I enjoy being a positive contributor to this community. So what if I think someone's mod is cool and I tell them that?

I apologize that I inconvenience you one extra scroll down the page. :rockthrow:

If you wanna get old school about it, I was here first. :trophy:
 
ordered my daystar 2.5/1.5 and wheel spacers .:madgrin:

edit: also ordered my interior white led lights from classy auto on amazon and reverse leds from whitebeauty
 
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While I am waiting on new clamps to arrive for my CV boots, I decided to investigate the other reason my truck failed MD inspection...

I cranked the driver's seat up as far as it would go and took a peek at the welds...

Right side:


Left side:


:censored:

As you can see, the left side weld is completely broken. If I had the money right now, I would just swap in leather power seats, but since that's not an option right now, I guess I am taking my driver's seat out and getting that left side welded back together. Hopefully the repair holds out until I can fund the leather swap, maybe next year.

I spent the last few days reading through all the frustrating driver's seat threads on here, YotaTech, and Toyota120. If I had seen all of those earlier, I may have looked harder for a Limited. :doh:
 
if they're anything like the Cooper STTs then they're amazing.

STT's were high on the list but people have told me that the lugs chunk off easily on rocks and that's mostly what my rig sees. I guess they're a softer compound than km2's? :shrug: Km2's are still on the top of the list.
 
STT's were high on the list but people have told me that the lugs chunk off easily on rocks and that's mostly what my rig sees. I guess they're a softer compound than km2's? :shrug: Km2's are still on the top of the list.

i only used them in sand and clay. Im too afraid of rocks, although i believe it. They changed to 10 ply recently. Maybe they have gotten stronger?
 
While I am waiting on new clamps to arrive for my CV boots, I decided to investigate the other reason my truck failed MD inspection...

I cranked the driver's seat up as far as it would go and took a peek at the welds...

Right side:


Left side:


:censored:

As you can see, the left side weld is completely broken. If I had the money right now, I would just swap in leather power seats, but since that's not an option right now, I guess I am taking my driver's seat out and getting that left side welded back together. Hopefully the repair holds out until I can fund the leather swap, maybe next year.

I spent the last few days reading through all the frustrating driver's seat threads on here, YotaTech, and Toyota120. If I had seen all of those earlier, I may have looked harder for a Limited. :doh:

Where at under the seat did you find this?
 
i only used them in sand and clay. Im too afraid of rocks, although i believe it. They changed to 10 ply recently. Maybe they have gotten stronger?

That's another issue I have. I'd like to keep the weight down since it does see road everyday and gas isn't cheap up here. 10 ply might be too much but I still have time to research. Rocks are the sh!t, as long as you have some protection!
 
Tpms disable

There has been a lot of write ups on this, but they change the connector and wire coloring on 08 and newer, and no cure for this. So determined to solve this idiot light. I looked at the other connectors and mine and found the wire positioning difference was at. Took a shot at it and Bamm. No more light.

I got the happy dance going on now. :reddance:

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STT's were high on the list but people have told me that the lugs chunk off easily on rocks and that's mostly what my rig sees. I guess they're a softer compound than km2's? :shrug: Km2's are still on the top of the list.

So Chris, how long ago since you tried the stt's. Cooper have the tek3 type now and states they have changed the compound in the rubber now. Is there statement B/S?
 
Lift ordered

I ordered my Toytec ultimate lift and light racing UCAs. Should be in early next week. I want to keep my 18" limited rims. What tires should I go with if I plan on being off road 25% of the time. Also I am pretty mind set on a 1.25" body lift. Will be ordering that tomorrow I believe.
 
So Chris, how long ago since you tried the stt's. Cooper have the tek3 type now and states they have changed the compound in the rubber now. Is there statement B/S?

I've never had a set of coopers. I believe it was Nathana92 that mentioned it a few months back.
 
There has been a lot of write ups on this, but they change the connector and wire coloring on 08 and newer, and no cure for this. So determined to solve this idiot light. I looked at the other connectors and mine and found the wire positioning difference was at. Took a shot at it and Bamm. No more light.

I got the happy dance going on now. :reddance:

I'm sorry, I don't know what issue you were having with the TPMS light. My light has always gone out when I ensured that all 5 tires had proper pressure. Do you think a sensor failed?
 
So it's not Truckee, CA, but we are supposedly in a blizzard warning here. No problem, the T4R got us to dinner with minimal slippage (self-induced!). The same can't be said for the minivan that almost t-boned me. She must have set a new distance record for sliding down the road in April.

I'm not taking my ski racks off for another week or so. We should have some good skiing at A-Basin after this dump.
 

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I'm sorry, I don't know what issue you were having with the TPMS light. My light has always gone out when I ensured that all 5 tires had proper pressure. Do you think a sensor failed?

Pretty much everyone else has when they DON'T WANT THAT LIGHT/ SYSTEM TO WORK. On the 08+ t4r, no one knew how to do the disable mod on it. So, I figured out the wiring sequence on the changed wire color and BAMM, no more light. I have a 2nd set of rims that I use at times with off road tires, get tired of looking at that light. And when the batteries die in the tire section, will not have to deal with the light or replacing them. Besides have a on/off switch to install on it now.
 
Where at under the seat did you find this?

Both pictures were taken looking up at the corners of the seat from the rear floor. I raised the seat height all the way using the handle, then pulled back the carpeted flap that protects the mechanisms from people's feet in the rear.

I discovered the broken weld right away by shaking the seat while looking underneath. The weld point is at the end of the round bar that supports the rear half of the seat. That bar attaches to the mechanism that pivots up or down when the seat height lever is adjusted. I'm willing to bet that the left side is more likely to break because of the stress on that side of the seat when entering/exiting the vehicle. I guess it wasn't designed for us fat Americans. :doh:
 

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