What did you do with your 4runner today?

[Greydog]

You want the camber and toe very near zero. The positive camber is a bit high.

The caster should be 2-3 atleast, would handle alot better at 3-4 with UCAs.

You can do the UCAs with the spring/shock installed, just drop the LCA down by removing the lower ball joint bolts. Pop the upper ball joint off and then remove the UCA nut and bolt.

Big breaker bar is ideal !

 

[Mytoy4]

Haha I was trying to withold myself because I figured out of everyone you would be the most understanding. Also I may be stopping by Omaha this weekend for a craigslist deal

Really? Whatcha coming to get? Must be something good if you're coming clear over here. Too bad my 4Runner is in the shop

 

[emelianenkov]

I apologize for being off topic in advance:

Almost broke my ankle yesterday spotting a guy up an obstacle. Watch the first 10 seconds
http://youtu.be/UaEgqtXMjQk

 

[Bastone]

Put my new vanity plate on because... well I guess I'm vain.

KCCO from a fellow Chiver! :bigok:

 

[LTDSC]

Haha I was trying to withold myself because I figured out of everyone you would be the most understanding. Also I may be stopping by Omaha this weekend for a craigslist deal


Yeah thats what I was afraid you were gonna say. Handles fine it really does just worried about dropping money on UCAs. For install would I have to drop my whole new front suspension or would it be difficult to do it myself?(amateur mechanical status)

im a decent garage mechanic but i installed my LR UCAs alone, in under 40 minutes once i had the front end up and taken apart. I was shocked with how easy it was.

 

[superman3043]

Yeah thats what I was afraid you were gonna say. Handles fine it really does just worried about dropping money on UCAs. For install would I have to drop my whole new front suspension or would it be difficult to do it myself?(amateur mechanical status)

If it drives fine, then I wouldn't stress over too much. Just save up and switch them out when you can. There are plenty of folks that have lifted their trucks with factory UCA's that drive around without any issues.

Install isn't too bad. The worst part to me is maneuvering the long bolt that holds the UCA to the frame out through the engine bay. I imagine that it's significantly easier on a V6. People also make room by removing the battery, but I didn't need to. I'll be removing and re-installing mine Thursday evening since I received updated pivot sleeves from SPC that eliminates the inner washers. I'll also be upgrading brakes at the same time. You do not have to remove your struts to do it. Somebody mentioned unbolting the LBJ, but I really don't see why you would need to do that either. Just jack the truck up, remove the wheel, unbolt the UBJ (cotter pin & castle nut), remove the control arm (nut & long bolt) and re-install in reverse order. You won't know how hard it is until you do it, but I think if you were able to do the front struts, you should be able to do UCA's.

 

[Duck'n]

Rear shocks are here but no install today...my 4R is back in the shop with a "mystery" rattle/clunk after they installed the CV axles and front brakes yesterday. Here we go...

 

[emelianenkov]

T-minus 4 hours 53 minutes until I start work on my bumper finally!!!

 

[wadle5]

Really? Whatcha coming to get? Must be something good if you're coming clear over here. Too bad my 4Runner is in the shop

Maybe getting some new wheels for the rig. Would you say $300 for new fj wheels with lugs is fair? Hell if I know, I just know I have always wanted newer wheels as my stock ones are flaking and rusted.

im a decent garage mechanic but i installed my LR UCAs alone, in under 40 minutes once i had the front end up and taken apart. I was shocked with how easy it was.

Thanks this helps my low mechanic morale:banana:

If it drives fine, then I wouldn't stress over too much. Just save up and switch them out when you can. There are plenty of folks that have lifted their trucks with factory UCA's that drive around without any issues.

Install isn't too bad. The worst part to me is maneuvering the long bolt that holds the UCA to the frame out through the engine bay. I imagine that it's significantly easier on a V6. People also make room by removing the battery, but I didn't need to. I'll be removing and re-installing mine Thursday evening since I received updated pivot sleeves from SPC that eliminates the inner washers. I'll also be upgrading brakes at the same time. You do not have to remove your struts to do it. Somebody mentioned unbolting the LBJ, but I really don't see why you would need to do that either. Just jack the truck up, remove the wheel, unbolt the UBJ (cotter pin & castle nut), remove the control arm (nut & long bolt) and re-install in reverse order. You won't know how hard it is until you do it, but I think if you were able to do the front struts, you should be able to do UCA's.

Fair enough so it may be something I will do down the road as you stated and doesn't seem AS hard as I thought, but everything is great now and it drives well after the alignment. I think my weekend activities gave the steering components and suspension a workout.

 

[Duck'n]

Mystery noise SOLVED! Pretty funny that when I dropped it back off, my buddy's head mechanic swore up and down that it must have been making that noise before he did the CV/front brake swap yesterday. I asked him politely to get under it and check everything they did because I am VERY familiar with my truck and know for a fact it wasn't rattling before. Not even an hour later, he called and said it was "fixed" and to come pick it up. When I got there he explained that his regular hand was out this week so he was using the wash/wax guy to "help out" but was keeping a close eye on him. However, the guy didn't get one of my sway bar end links property tightened so it was clunking. Hmmm. At least the head mechanic went back over every single bolt and nut and made sure the rest was property tightened. Still a little nervous but onward through the fog...time to get after the rear spring/shock swap but it will probably have to wait until Saturday morning.

 

[dmalis12]

Mystery noise SOLVED! Pretty funny that when I dropped it back off, my buddy's head mechanic swore up and down that it must have been making that noise before he did the CV/front brake swap yesterday. I asked him politely to get under it and check everything they did because I am VERY familiar with my truck and know for a fact it wasn't rattling before. Not even an hour later, he called and said it was "fixed" and to come pick it up. When I got there he explained that his regular hand was out this week so he was using the wash/wax guy to "help out" but was keeping a close eye on him. However, the guy didn't get one of my sway bar end links property tightened so it was clunking. Hmmm. At least the head mechanic went back over every single bolt and nut and made sure the rest was property tightened. Still a little nervous but onward through the fog...time to get after the rear spring/shock swap but it will probably have to wait until Saturday morning.

I just did my axles, front and rear suspension and it sounds like i have the same thing happening. I had a buddy help that was no better than a 'car wash' guy. When i hit bumps it sounds like a click, light clunk that wasn't there before and this may be the reason. I can't think of anything else that would be loose.

 

[emelianenkov]

Getting closer!

 

[jconusn]

Today, I saved $1289.69...

Got my CV axle (Driver side) replaced, new calipers, rotors and pads up front. Dealer, after taking it in for the dreaded manifold tick issue, found that all that was wrong in addition to the Manifold being cracked. Dealer quote for the CV Axle: $795.86, for the Rotors, Pads, and Calipers: $1134.14, and for the Manifold: $1097.65. ound: LOL. Why so freaking high for all but the Manifold which is EXTREMELY fair? So, went to AutoZone, got the brakes, rotors, pads, calipers. Total cost using AutoZone and an installer they recommended locally: $640.31. Total at Checkered Flag Toyota in VA Beach: $1930!!!!!! I saved $1289.69 today! But, I did order the manifold from Checkered Flag and letting them install that as the other guy was at $800 just for labor...I think Toyota is using the manifold thing as a get you in ('cus they know they are faulty manifolds) and then try to stick it to ya elsewhere like brakes/rotors/calipers/CV Axle and the like. Just thought I would share, and let everyone who doesn't already know to never use the stealer :cheers:

 

[jconusn]

Awesome

Getting closer!

I honestly don't know what that is...but I do know that I wish I had the talent to make it, it looks awesome.

 

[wrestler157]

Got my CV axle (Driver side) replaced, new calipers, rotors and pads up front. Dealer, after taking it in for the dreaded manifold tick issue, found that all that was wrong in addition to the Manifold being cracked. Dealer quote for the CV Axle: $795.86, for the Rotors, Pads, and Calipers: $1134.14, and for the Manifold: $1097.65. ound: LOL. Why so freaking high for all but the Manifold which is EXTREMELY fair? So, went to AutoZone, got the brakes, rotors, pads, calipers. Total cost using AutoZone and an installer they recommended locally: $640.31. Total at Checkered Flag Toyota in VA Beach: $1930!!!!!! I saved $1289.69 today! But, I did order the manifold from Checkered Flag and letting them install that as the other guy was at $800 just for labor...I think Toyota is using the manifold thing as a get you in ('cus they know they are faulty manifolds) and then try to stick it to ya elsewhere like brakes/rotors/calipers/CV Axle and the like. Just thought I would share, and let everyone who doesn't already know to never use the stealer :cheers:

Nice to see another member from Hampton roads! But yea dealerships are rip offs they do have aftermarket CVS for cheaper but I'm sure they only gave you their parts price which is crazy expensive.

 

[PalmettoMud]

Bought 6 qts of Royal Purple, spark plugs, oil filter, & new brake pads (front & rear). Knocked out the HIDs & LEDs yesterday. Retail therapy meets mechanical therapy. :doh:

 

[emelianenkov]

Almost done with the winch plate. Just have to grind it down

My truck right now

 

[emelianenkov]

I honestly don't know what that is...but I do know that I wish I had the talent to make it, it looks awesome.

Thank you Lots of welding to do haha

That sir is my new custom built bumper!!

 

[Duck'n]

Lookin good Alex!

 

[Tayzorz]

Almost done with the winch plate. Just have to grind it down

My truck right now

op2: