Nyc-Runner
New member
Replaced all my idler pulleys today, i went thru some of the deepest water i've ever been in a couple weeks ago at the NHOC then my truck sounded like it grew a supercharger over night haha It's nice and quite again now!
What did you do with your 4runner today?
- Thread starter NorthGa4R
- Start date
wyanrard
New member
You have a part number on this? I need to do this soon, did the tensioner pulley last winter.
A10MileHusker
New member
Used the 4Runner to bring home a 2015 Stance 2 27.5 Mountain Bike. Stole this guy for $880. So pumped to finally find one and can't wait to get it on the trails!
Guys, for the sake of not starting a new thread, I will ask my question here. I would love to get some advice from anyone that may have a little insight for me.
So I bought my truck in March this year (Love it). A few weeks after I installed the Daystar lift that is currently still on my truck. I took the truck for an alignment the next day. They could not do he alignment because the LCA bushings were bad (siezed, torn, shitty). I replaced them that week with energy suspension polys. I also replaced the alignment bolts, nuts, etc because the shop rung the nut off and did not tell me. At this point my 285s had arrived, I finally got the alignment accomplished and the tires put on (Different shop than the one that rung the bolts off). HERE IS WHERE MY PROBLEM BEGINS.
After it was done, I drove home, and the wheels threw all of the weights, and the truck was pulling SLIGHTLY to the right. If I held the wheel straight, the truck would track straight, but if I let go, the wheel would turn, and the truck would pull right SLIGHTLY.
The tires ended up being out of round, and I sold them to a guy with a mud truck. The pull is still there however. I could not convince the guys to redo the alignment because the tires were bad, and they claimed the tires were causing the pull. I never got the alignment redone.
The pull has gotten worse since then. It is worse when braking. Especially when braking hard, or driving interstate speeds ~70mph. THE TRUCK ONLY PULLS WHEN I LET THE STEERING WHEEL GO. If I hold it in the middle, It dives straight, but it is a consistent pull. This is the only reason that I doubt an alignment issue at all. I need to know where to start without spending a fortune as I have a big trip in less than month.
My theories:
alignment (obviously)
wheel bearing (no noticabe noise)
something in the brakes
Any advice is helpful.
Thanks, GREG
Edit: I apologize for any grammatical errors. I'm on my 13th hour at work, typing on a shitty keyboard, and I'm in a rush because we're busy. All of the ball joints, and tie rods are good. No leaking or play. Stock UCAs
So I bought my truck in March this year (Love it). A few weeks after I installed the Daystar lift that is currently still on my truck. I took the truck for an alignment the next day. They could not do he alignment because the LCA bushings were bad (siezed, torn, shitty). I replaced them that week with energy suspension polys. I also replaced the alignment bolts, nuts, etc because the shop rung the nut off and did not tell me. At this point my 285s had arrived, I finally got the alignment accomplished and the tires put on (Different shop than the one that rung the bolts off). HERE IS WHERE MY PROBLEM BEGINS.
After it was done, I drove home, and the wheels threw all of the weights, and the truck was pulling SLIGHTLY to the right. If I held the wheel straight, the truck would track straight, but if I let go, the wheel would turn, and the truck would pull right SLIGHTLY.
The tires ended up being out of round, and I sold them to a guy with a mud truck. The pull is still there however. I could not convince the guys to redo the alignment because the tires were bad, and they claimed the tires were causing the pull. I never got the alignment redone.
The pull has gotten worse since then. It is worse when braking. Especially when braking hard, or driving interstate speeds ~70mph. THE TRUCK ONLY PULLS WHEN I LET THE STEERING WHEEL GO. If I hold it in the middle, It dives straight, but it is a consistent pull. This is the only reason that I doubt an alignment issue at all. I need to know where to start without spending a fortune as I have a big trip in less than month.
My theories:
alignment (obviously)
wheel bearing (no noticabe noise)
something in the brakes
Any advice is helpful.
Thanks, GREG
Edit: I apologize for any grammatical errors. I'm on my 13th hour at work, typing on a shitty keyboard, and I'm in a rush because we're busy. All of the ball joints, and tie rods are good. No leaking or play. Stock UCAs
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Duralast remanned unit from autozone. $61 and lifetime warranty. Next time I break it, they'll replace it!
superman3043
Senior Member
Pull that front right caliper and check if it's seized. Chances are that's what happened and it was just coincidence with everything else. Hope that helps. Keep us posted.
Unfortunately that caliper got replaced after all of this happened. I got a little carried away with a grinder trying to make a 15'' wheel fit. I know for a fact that the two rear calipers are good as well. I replaced those pads about a month ago. I sincerely appreciate the advice though. If there are any other ideas, hit me. I'm open to all suggestions.
I wish it was that easy though Superman3043...
Nyc-Runner
New member
Yes i do, there is also some very good threads on T120 and the FJ forum filled with info
here
http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4047
All the links to the FJ forum are in this ^ thread to.
There seems to be some different info on how many of which pulleys to get
Some say get 3/1 others say 2/2
I got 3 pt#36173 for the top two pulleys and tensioner pulley
and 1 pt#36174 for the bottom.
The reason for the confusion is that they don't actually sell just a pulley for the tension so you have to buy the whole tensioner assembly which is extra unnecessary money IMO when only the bearings in the pulley go bad. We measured the diameter of the tensioner pulley and it's the same as both pulleys listed above. So i just opted for 1 more #36173 as others have done and it worked out fine.
wyanrard
New member
Not today. But yesterday:
-oil change
-tire rotation
-re-tapped threads on some oem engine bay holes.
-bandaid fixed my cv boot (axle is 3 years old)
-had a pulley go bad , will find out which one soon. Reall hope it isn't the tensioner ...... Again.
---*** Also put new bolts through the clamshell heat shield over the cat that is directly under the driver, finally no more rattling. There was not much of the OEM bolt left after 186k miles.
-oil change
-tire rotation
-re-tapped threads on some oem engine bay holes.
-bandaid fixed my cv boot (axle is 3 years old)
-had a pulley go bad , will find out which one soon. Reall hope it isn't the tensioner ...... Again.
---*** Also put new bolts through the clamshell heat shield over the cat that is directly under the driver, finally no more rattling. There was not much of the OEM bolt left after 186k miles.
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wyanrard
New member
Awesome man ! Thanks. This is great. Yeah I actually had to scramble last year to find the tensioner pulley. So I bought a replacement tensioner and took off the pulley. Lol
wadle5
New member
Details on that beauty?! [emoji7]I don't. There's a good 8' at least. I have one under the hitch as well. They do okay when backing the trailer etc. For area lighting I love my hatch light.
I forgot you did that. Did you ever figure out if you would be able to fit a 15" with correct offset and some caliper grinding? I sooooooo want to go with 15" wheels!
It's an LED light strip off amazon. Run a ground wire from the rear dome light switch into the rear hatch. Attach the strip to the bottom of the hatch butted up to the door panel. Use a test light to find a +12v constant.
Only hard part is getting the wire ran beside the glass.
The answer to the question is no, you can't see it from inside or out when the gate is closed with doors open.
Should be finding out this weekend. I have the rim and tire in the back of the truck now. I know they will fit, but it's a matter of how much backspacing. I think it's going to be roughly 3.75'' backspacing that allows us to barley clear them. I'm going to measure the thickness needed this weekend, and order the spacers. Fingers crossed. I'll keep you posted
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