Bigrupp
New member
Drove it straight to work to pay for all these new mods I want!
Better plan on working LOTS of overtime!
Drove it straight to work to pay for all these new mods I want!
Not sure what kind of turbo it is,but it sounds good to meSee if you can find someone local that has the Gibson. I love mine. Nice low rumble, nice sound at WOT, but quite enough for around town cruising.
Here is what my problem is for past 3 years: Engage to 4H no problem, center lock engage no problem (I found it is always easier for center lock to engage while in Neutral). Then since 4L always requires to be engaged only in Neutral, so I was trying it whenever I have a chance, 4Lo will just always blink in orange and never stop blinking, which means not engaged. Sometimes I will try to rock the car back and forth just a bit but always hearing the beep since 4Lo will only be engageable while in Neutral.
Here is exactly what i did yesterday to resolve this problem:
Went to Rausch Creek (past weekend), bumped the crap out of my car. Tried engaging at end of the day of Rausch Creek, still only go the 4Lo to blink. Did not stay on.
Yesterday, went to WAWA and it was a hot day, 85F to be exact according to 4runner. Turn on the car, shift knob at P, turn to 4H, engaged, then shift to N, feet on the brake, shift to 4L, only got blinking 4Lo, while 4Lo is still blinking (4WD knob at 4L) shift from N to D then to 3D then to 2 and then to L while the car is still stationary (feet on the brake the whole process), then shift from L to 2 to 3D to D and back to N, this entire process car was beeping at me because I am not supposed to have my shifter out of N while trying to engage to 4L. Now the shifter is in N and it still beeps becuase I did not reset 4wd knob back to 4H. So I turned it back to 4H and turned to 4L again, wa-lah, 4Lo blinked once and stayed on, I was literally in tears cuz this saved me about $2500 according to a quote proved by my local toyota dealer. So then I had to stay in 4Low to drive as much as I can to avoid the 4L being stuck/sticky again. Then I made sure I am able to switch back to 4L after it disengages, then drove away in 2H. Last night tried it again, worked fine, so now I officially have 4Low.
Sounds like good troubleshooting. Try everything reasonable and see how it works out. If it doesn't work out move to stage two. I'm a big fan of dielectric grease on all electrical connections so I'd slap some onto the transfer case connections.
Oh I do trust me.Better plan on working LOTS of overtime!
Today I got my 2008 4Runner back from the body shop after being professionally buffed and waxed and polished and whatever other magic he did to get my natural white paint back to a mirror finish![]()
Today I got my 2008 4Runner back from the body shop after being professionally buffed and waxed and polished and whatever other magic he did to get my natural white paint back to a mirror finish
Over the last 2 weeks I rolled over 100k and performed quite a few PMs including draining and filling the diffs and transfer case with Mobil 1, flushing the power steering system, new spark plugs, new serpentine belt, greasing the drive shafts and an oil change.
We bought our 2007 in 2012 and by all accounts the first owner garage kept it because the paint was in great shape. Our rental house hassn't allow covered or garage parking for the past 4 years it's been sitting outside in the driveway. While I've tried to keep it washed and clean as much as possible, 4 years had taken it's toll on the Natural White paint job. It was obviously cloudy, faded and covered with various contaminants. Now that we're moving in a few weeks I decided it was time to see if I could recover the paint and hit the reset button.
I started off with a wash, then clayed it, then broke out the Flex DA buffer and Wolfgang products. For extra protection I put a coat of Collinite 845 over top the Wolfgang sealant...
After 5 hours, it turned out much better than I thought it would and has me thinking I may not trade it in later this year, early next year as I was planning to when I bought my new vehicle.... It may be time to say goodbye to Carol The Corolla (2005 with 190,000 miles) instead and let the wifey drive Stella full time.
Here's the results:
Fair warning, I bought my control arms on eBay through a reseller so SPC would not warranty directly. Luckily they were helpful enough to tell me what was needed to get my reseller through to their distributor and back to SPC to allow them to send replacements. A little extra headache and work but an understandable process and still great customer service. Surprisingly quick too.Oil change and tire rotation. Started prying around to find a newly developed springy clunk that was more apparent on the front right but also on the front left. Ended up being my SPC upper control arm ball joints with lots of play :cry2: they aren't even a year old yet! Contacted them about warranty/upgrade to the latest part so we'll see what happens.