What did you do with your 4runner today?

I have 2 stuck calipers (front and rear) and the other 2 are crusted up with rust. I totally expect for them to be stuck as well. I figure: I'm going to pay big money to replace them, may as well go with the 5thgen brake upgrade. Crazy thing is: my brakes still work fine (for no, but I know they will fail inspection), but I'm 2 months past state inspection, so I should get my ass moving............

I had the same issue actually. fron't two rusted, rear two were factory brake pads and rotors from 12 years ago... that were never replaced, it was grinding metal on metal!
 
Finished up my spare LCA rebuild with poly bushings and new style moog greaseable ball joints. Now to weld up the alignment cam tabs and install the new arms.
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Garbage from front and rear arms. So far not impressed with the rear poly bushings, only in for a couple weeks and extremely squeaky.

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Honestly I put poly bushings on the F/R swaybar and HATED them. Not only did they make god awful noises on the 2nd day they completely fell apart after street driving.

I would not recommend them for anything other than the UCAs. OEM bushings/rubber are just in a different league from a quality standpoint.

What's the point of running them in the LCAs anyway?
 
Honestly I put poly bushings on the F/R swaybar and HATED them. Not only did they make god awful noises on the 2nd day they completely fell apart after street driving.

I would not recommend them for anything other than the UCAs. OEM bushings/rubber are just in a different league from a quality standpoint.

What's the point of running them in the LCAs anyway?

Poly has less give and is supposed to be stiffer, more responsive.
 
Honestly I put poly bushings on the F/R swaybar and HATED them. Not only did they make god awful noises on the 2nd day they completely fell apart after street driving.

I would not recommend them for anything other than the UCAs. OEM bushings/rubber are just in a different league from a quality standpoint.

What's the point of running them in the LCAs anyway?

Stock rubber bushings have more radial deflection (slop) and are captured so that they can only rotate so far. Lift something and give it more travel therefore larger angle of rotation in the bushing and you'll wear out the stock rubber bushings designed for a smaller angular range of motion much faster. Then throw in the fact that I'm currently running cheap aftermarket LCA's and multiply the wear effect, translate it into undesired steering feedback and slop. So while they don't add any additional travel (dictated by shock length) they certainly do make getting to either end of travel much easier and the ride more stable from just doing the rear arms so far. NVH is very much so a personal preference so to each their own there, but if you have them in one squeaky joint, might as well run it everywhere.

I've been running poly sway bushings for 2+ years now with no noise or degrading issues so we've had different experience there too. Maybe cheap bushings, wrong size, or wrong grease deteriorated them. I will agree that OEM ball joints and bushings are pretty impressive in terms of robustness but at 125k miles and lift and offroading they are well past their prime.
 
Finished up my spare LCA rebuild with poly bushings and new style moog greaseable ball joints. Now to weld up the alignment cam tabs and install the new arms.
bb146c279415ccb53ba3bcb1261ec28e.jpg


Garbage from front and rear arms. So far not impressed with the rear poly bushings, only in for a couple weeks and extremely squeaky.

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Was this job as bad as everyone says it is? I should do mine soon...
 
Was this job as bad as everyone says it is? I should do mine soon...

Best advice would be to get a MAPP torch instead of propane, and having a shop press, even the 12 ton harbor freight one will make the job that much easier and faster. And rent the master ball joint press tool to use the different sized cups and adapters for the ball joints. The real pain is if you need to cut the old bushings to get seized adjusters off the t4r. Yes it took me about 3 weeks to rebuild these arms but I only worked on them a couple nights a week so it could be a weekender job if you're ambitious and have everything together that you need.
 
Best advice would be to get a MAPP torch instead of propane, and having a shop press, even the 12 ton harbor freight one will make the job that much easier and faster. And rent the master ball joint press tool to use the different sized cups and adapters for the ball joints. The real pain is if you need to cut the old bushings to get seized adjusters off the t4r. Yes it took me about 3 weeks to rebuild these arms but I only worked on them a couple nights a week so it could be a weekender job if you're ambitious and have everything together that you need.

I actually used the ball joint press to press out the rubber with a oxy acetylene torch and my impact, also used the press to put it all back together
 
Installed LED bulbs in my turn signals and replaced the relay with one from SuperBrightLED's.com so they don't blink stupid fast. Replacing the relay took about 15 minutes. The bulbs took about an hour because I managed to drop the driver's side bulb into the light housing. So I had to remove the entire housing to get the bulb out. :frusty: :doh:
 
installed new support struts on the liftgate. cheap and effective. so nice to have it open faster now. in the winter it was dead, wouldn't open on its own.
 
I need to do this, where/what did you buy for replacements?

There are a few options on Amazon TUFF, W.A.S., Strong Arm etc. I prefer OEM parts for most things but this is one of those items you can go aftermarket and will perform the same at a much lower cost.

I went with the W.A.S. $50 for both L and R. I had previously used this brand when I replaced the shocks on my moms excursion when she complained lift gate kept falling on her head.

If you get this one pull the little spring pin before you attach it to the ball end. You'll see once you get it. Also left and right are labeled so make sure you look at that. There is also support shocks for the hood so make sure you order the right one. :thumb:
 
2005 4runner 4wd v6

Having fun with this beauty but have had problems recently. When my buddy plugged in his phone to the center console usb all of the indicator lights on the right side came on and the idling began to fluctuate. Any suggestions what it could be?
 

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velcro-mounted emergency hammer and wifi travel router/media and storage server

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The router, a $18 HooToo TM-02, is not a mobile data hotspot. Its purpose is to provide streaming media and other content such as maps and travel guides (on the attached USB flash drive) when no mobile data network is available, as well as an SMB network share for backing up photos and videos. This frees up storage on devices that don't have a memory card slot, such as my OnePlus One and Nexus 7.

We'll see how well the hammer stays in place on bumpy backroads.
 

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