What did you do with your 4runner today?

Mine stuck out a bit too. So I filledthe space with Jerry can carriers. :biggrin:

My hinge wobbled too when I first got my carrier. It was no big deal to just tighten the bolt up and it hasn't been a problem since.

It actually turns out that the hinge bolt wasn't tightened down enough. I fixed it the next day with a quarter turn of the wrench. Do you feel like you have to carry extra tools to be able to get the wheel off the tire gate? I sort of want to get the lug bolts welded on so I won't have to worry about having an extra wrench in the back. Although I think I recall you have almost a full tool set in your drawers.

Looks good. Just wondering if you’re required to do anything to make the rear license plate visible and lighted.

You should check out YetiX build. He has it written up better than I can describe. I'm just using ds tape right now and I'm waiting on my plate light to come in from Amazon. I planned on following his mounting method and then using a trailer 7 pin breakout wiring set to run a rear view cam and lights to the plates..

usually they plate and light are required...in MA they are but thats a tough benchmark (f'n state) looks sick...

i thought you were the guy on here from texas with an rx7 and like 4 other cars lol. looks like a clone with wheels and i think he got that carrier too

[MENTION=200736]ElectroBoy[/MENTION] quoted my post but he deleted part of the message so it looked like he was posting what I had posted. I'm sure most states require the rear plate. I have an update to post in a bit. I'm just working through a few pictures in my phone first.
 
Temporary rear plate solution

I had to come up with a temporary plate location. Otherwise I would have to remove the tire every time I went anywhere.

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It's a bit ghetto but the world of tuner cars is held together with double sided tape. My temp solution until I get my nutserts from Amazon to permanently install it. I also tied the plate to the tire carrier in case the DS tape decides to let go. It is pretty firm though, it might actually be difficult to remove once I redo the mounting.

41f9baf58b834e521d40110048ee81cd.jpg

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I think it looks cleaner under the tire but I might get flack for putting it there vs. a more visible location to the right. I'll have to decide where but it might have to goto the right. Also have to place an order for the wire adapter so I can wire up the plate lights. I already ordered the lights but it hasn't arrived yet. I did however, get these in the mail.

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My friend sent me a link to a page where they make custom hitch covers and he had these OG TRD logos along with USA colored ones. He was sold out of the USA ones but I thought these might look decent. I already have the TRD PRO emblems but it might be too ricer to put those on. It's just held on with painters tape for now. I just wanted to see how it'd turn out. It looks a little too sparse IMO. Might play with the alignment later.
 
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Started working on some maintenance stuff, as one of the cv axle boots just started seeping and the front passenger wheel bearing started making noise. The rear pads were also getting a bit low, and decided if I'm going to be pulling axles and doing brakes, I might as well pull all the XREAS stuff and replace with Bilsteins all at one time, do gear oil changes, etc.

Today: new rear pads/rotors, drained & filled rear diff, drained front diff and pulled both CV's to go get re-greased and re-booted.

Bilstein 5100's should be in tomorrow and for now I'll be keeping the stock springs, since I'm just looking to level for now and will probably replace coils next year with a set of Dobinsons.

You can set your Bilsteins to get up to 2.25” lift up front, and add an inexpensive spacer for the rear if needed and keep the stock springs. Here’s one of mine with that.
 

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It's quite interesting to see what various people do with their T4Rs. This place seems to be a wealth of knowledge.

I ordered some Weather Tech mats for mine that will make a lot of stuff easier (dealing with dog hair from our two pooches for starters). Looking forward to seeing those in a few days.

I do believe my rearview mirror (which has a compass & auto-dimmer) is a goner, and so I'm going to replace it. I got a quote from the dealership (around $250 including the part itself & labor).

Is there a cheaper way to go about getting this thing replaced or do I just need to pony up the money? I searched around eBay and elsewhere and mirrors similar to mine seem to be of a similar price range to what the dealership quoted.

If I'm able to obtain one in this way, would it be a difficult install? I've admittedly never done anything like this before.
 
It actually turns out that the hinge bolt wasn't tightened down enough. I fixed it the next day with a quarter turn of the wrench. Do you feel like you have to carry extra tools to be able to get the wheel off the tire gate? I sort of want to get the lug bolts welded on so I won't have to worry about having an extra wrench in the back. Although I think I recall you have almost a full tool set in your drawers.
Mine was exactly the same, a quarter turn and no more wobbling. As far as the wheel goes, I wanted to be able to secure the wheel to the mount with the same locking lug nuts I use for the wheels. I went to my local Ace Hardware and found two stainless steel bolts that were the right size and got two lock-washers with them. I still use the stock chrome lug nut for the top which offends my OCD, but at least I don't need any extra tools.

Here are the locking lug nuts (on the two lower bolts):

O7XnFz.jpg


And the back side showing the two bolts I bought at Ace:

p7kr9O.jpg


You should check out YetiX build. He has it written up better than I can describe. I'm just using ds tape right now and I'm waiting on my plate light to come in from Amazon. I planned on following his mounting method and then using a trailer 7 pin breakout wiring set to run a rear view cam and lights to the plates..

To secure and light mine, I drilled two holes in the Hitchgate and then inserted two M6 Nutserts:

x17VjR.jpg


The previous owner of my Hitchgate bought an LED trailer license plate bracket/light to hold the license plate and keep it legally lit. This is the one I have on Amazon LINK I painted it black because I don't like chrome and tinted the light because it was too bright:

3TVLKB.jpg


It is plugged in to the trailer wiring connector:

GKKv9o.jpg


Hope that helps!!
 
Toyota have had mine a few days now, $178 to fit and program an ecu. But the truck was giving some odd codes so they asked to keep it an extra day to get a proper diagnosis. So they phoned today to give me the good news that they confirmed it's the bank 2 sensor 2 that needs replacing and the cost for this will be $177 for the sensor and all in the bill will be around $300 fitted.

I told them I will try do it myself, I already paid them $200 to tell me the ecu was bad then $178 to fit the replacement. 300 to fit an o2 sensor feels like an extra kick in the nuts. Hoping to order the sensor tomorrow and fingers crossed it's easy to install and locate.
 
Where did you order the carpet kit from?

It's OEM carpet from a salvage yard

[MENTION=288463]iamBazzy[/MENTION] I have same question! Does it smell still?

Actually no smell, or even a little better than my old stuff! The one I pulled it from had been recently brought to the yard. We had 4 or 5 to pick from that smelled of mildew, but this one was incredibly clean. I think they charged me like $20 for the carpets
 
It's quite interesting to see what various people do with their T4Rs. This place seems to be a wealth of knowledge.

I ordered some Weather Tech mats for mine that will make a lot of stuff easier (dealing with dog hair from our two pooches for starters). Looking forward to seeing those in a few days.

I do believe my rearview mirror (which has a compass & auto-dimmer) is a goner, and so I'm going to replace it. I got a quote from the dealership (around $250 including the part itself & labor).

Is there a cheaper way to go about getting this thing replaced or do I just need to pony up the money? I searched around eBay and elsewhere and mirrors similar to mine seem to be of a similar price range to what the dealership quoted.

If I'm able to obtain one in this way, would it be a difficult install? I've admittedly never done anything like this before.

[MENTION=289803]PhantomF4E[/MENTION] Here is a start to help find a mirror. Shouldn't be too hard to install since you already have one. May be able to splice over the existing plug.
 
You can set your Bilsteins to get up to 2.25” lift up front, and add an inexpensive spacer for the rear if needed and keep the stock springs. Here’s one of mine with that.

That's with the spacer in the rear? That's already about where the rear of our sits right now, stock. Not going for lift right now (planning on running these tires for at least another year) so I think the 2nd notch (.85) should be enough to level it.

20181220_141130.jpg
 
It's quite interesting to see what various people do with their T4Rs. This place seems to be a wealth of knowledge.

I ordered some Weather Tech mats for mine that will make a lot of stuff easier (dealing with dog hair from our two pooches for starters). Looking forward to seeing those in a few days.

I do believe my rearview mirror (which has a compass & auto-dimmer) is a goner, and so I'm going to replace it. I got a quote from the dealership (around $250 including the part itself & labor).

Is there a cheaper way to go about getting this thing replaced or do I just need to pony up the money? I searched around eBay and elsewhere and mirrors similar to mine seem to be of a similar price range to what the dealership quoted.

If I'm able to obtain one in this way, would it be a difficult install? I've admittedly never done anything like this before.

I believe I found my auto-dimming mirror w/ compass for $25 on eBay. It's from a different Toyota, I can't recall which. All you need to do it get power to it and it'll be good to go. Should be easy if you already had one like it even if the plug isn't a fit. Just make sure the mirror includes a pigtail.
 
First time posting in this thread. My suspension came in yesterday and will be getting installed on the 14th so today Im doing some preparing. I’m going 3in in the front with icon 2.5s and 2in in the back with icon 2.0s with reservoirs. I also have a set of JBA control arms to go along with the shocks. The tires I’m going with are 285/75/17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers.

Once everything’s on I will be doing more cutting in the front with a more aggressive angle on the bumper while cleaning up today’s cuts. The rear might need some slight trimming at the most. If anyone can point me to a thread that explains the pinch welds and the best way to hammer them down (possibly with pictures), I would seriously appreciate it!

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you set on the Nitto's?
I would look at the BFG KM2 or something else... i have had a couple of friends that have liked them for the first 1 or 2 k miles but after that they had nothing but lack of traction and complaints. One had issues with getting a couple of tires to balance out, so much that the tire shop sent them back and ordered up another set of 5...

I really like my Duratracs but dont think they are offered in the 75. I ran a set of used BFG KM2's that were the 285/75/17 and they were good up until the last 4/32nds of tread.

Just my $0.02
 
I do believe my rearview mirror (which has a compass & auto-dimmer) is a goner, and so I'm going to replace it. I got a quote from the dealership (around $250 including the part itself & labor).

Is there a cheaper way to go about getting this thing replaced or do I just need to pony up the money? I searched around eBay and elsewhere and mirrors similar to mine seem to be of a similar price range to what the dealership quoted.

If I'm able to obtain one in this way, would it be a difficult install? I've admittedly never done anything like this before.

Here's what I used. Brandmotion also has a compass/auto dim mirror I've seen used for about 100 if you want to keep that function.

9/03/18 - Brandmotion Infinity rear view mirror & IS300 brake pedal

I opted for the manual function for now just because I know the mecury in the auto dim has a finite lifespan and I wasn't sure if I wanted to have to replace it down the road.
 
I believe I found my auto-dimming mirror w/ compass for $25 on eBay. It's from a different Toyota, I can't recall which. All you need to do it get power to it and it'll be good to go. Should be easy if you already had one like it even if the plug isn't a fit. Just make sure the mirror includes a pigtail.

You think it's a safe bet then that it's just the mirror itself that's not working?
 
Mine was exactly the same, a quarter turn and no more wobbling. As far as the wheel goes, I wanted to be able to secure the wheel to the mount with the same locking lug nuts I use for the wheels. I went to my local Ace Hardware and found two stainless steel bolts that were the right size and got two lock-washers with them. I still use the stock chrome lug nut for the top which offends my OCD, but at least I don't need any extra tools.

And the back side showing the two bolts I bought at Ace:

p7kr9O.jpg

Would you still need a 3/4 wrench to hold those bolts from the back side when re-installing the wheel that you replaced with the spare?
 
Would you still need a 3/4 wrench to hold those bolts from the back side when re-installing the wheel that you replaced with the spare?

They're metric so they're a size I already have. I think they're 17 or 18 mm. I debated tack welding them in place, but that might limit the carrier's re-sale value if I ever go to a full bumper.
 
Feel like digging a big hole and driving my 4runner into it. Had a mechanic fit a new o2 sensor and 15 minutes after collecting the truck the dashboard lights up again. The code this time was P0106, so I went and bought some MAF sensor cleaner and a new air filter. Both were really nasty and after doing the cleaning I got the same code so I reset it again and went on a 20 minute drive, just got home and so far no codes.

Seems each time I replace something I end up with different codes pointing elsewhere. Really frustrating experience so far since I purchased this truck.
 
Picked up my Satin Black Icon Rebounds 17x8.5.

pufOohi.jpg


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Then headed to get the 285/70 17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W mounted up.

SMTmtj2.jpg


UmlmCNy.jpg


2xLE1v3.jpg


Couldn't be happier with the look and the ride. The sun was setting pretty quick so these were the only shots i was able to get today

Fca1gSz.jpg


QsptSAY.jpg
 
What I did today

Yesterday when I arrived home in my 4Runner I noticed a 'hot brake' smell. Unfortunately I discovered the left rear caliper was seized. Bought a new rotor & caliper. Didn't need to replace the pads as they have plenty left.

I also researched how to fix a broken light on the climate control display.

Loving my 4Runner so far.
 
Mine was exactly the same, a quarter turn and no more wobbling. As far as the wheel goes, I wanted to be able to secure the wheel to the mount with the same locking lug nuts I use for the wheels. I went to my local Ace Hardware and found two stainless steel bolts that were the right size and got two lock-washers with them. I still use the stock chrome lug nut for the top which offends my OCD, but at least I don't need any extra tools.

Here are the locking lug nuts (on the two lower bolts):

O7XnFz.jpg


And the back side showing the two bolts I bought at Ace:

p7kr9O.jpg




To secure and light mine, I drilled two holes in the Hitchgate and then inserted two M6 Nutserts:

x17VjR.jpg


The previous owner of my Hitchgate bought an LED trailer license plate bracket/light to hold the license plate and keep it legally lit. This is the one I have on Amazon LINK I painted it black because I don't like chrome and tinted the light because it was too bright:

3TVLKB.jpg


It is plugged in to the trailer wiring connector:

GKKv9o.jpg


Hope that helps!!

what plug is that for the wiring connector???
 

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