What did you do with your 4runner today?
- Thread starter NorthGa4R
- Start date
Hunter.Cribb
New member
Removed flat port spoiler and Installed the factory spoiler with the hump.
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Vehicle: 2005 4WD 4.0L V6 SR5 with 206,000 miles
Drained and replaced 4qts of transmission fluid today, plus the screen, o-ring and pan gasket. First time I have done that. Took 2 1/2 hours including 2 breaks. I was working slowly. It is about a 1 hour job, working steadily and methodically.
Parts all available via online parts catalog at your local Toyota dealer.
Vehicle should be on a flat and level surface.
Parts:
- 4 qts Toyota WS transmission fluid
- 2 crush washers
- transmission oil pan gasket
- metal screen
- o-ring for metal screen
Tools:
- bottle-type transfer pump (I used an empty windshield wiper fluid bottle to hold the fresh oil)
- 10mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 24mm hex socket
- 6mm hex bit
- 6" socket extension
- ratchet drive
- oil catch pan/tub
- funnel
- paper towels
Procedure:
- check (crack open) that fill plug can be removed
- check (crack open) drain plug and level check plug, retighten temporarily
- check (crack open) each transmission oil pan screw to see that they can be removed
- position oil drain tub
- remove drain plug and level check plug, drain oil into tub
- throw away old crush washers
- install new crush washer on drain plug, install and tighten drain plug
- remove all but 2 (one on each side, opposite each other) of the 20 oil pan screws
- position the catch tub under the transmission, carefully remove by hand the remaining two screws, carefully lower the oil pan and tip the remaining oil into the catch tub *****THIS IS A FULLY ACCESSIBLE OPERATION ON A 1GR-FE 4.0L V6 4WD***** V8 powertrains require partial exhaust removal
- remove pan and drain tub to a convenient place, remove old gasket, clean magnet, wipe out inside of pan, wipe sealing surface, replace magnets
- gently place new gasket in position
- move pan under the transmission
- insert an oil pan screw through the pan and gasket, carefully start the screw by hand, then do the same with one screw opposite the first
- install remaining 18 screws and snug tight
- torque gradually in a diagonal pattern
- position oil tub under fill hole and level check hole
- pump in new oil until it flows out the level check hole
- install new crush washer on level check plug, install and tighten plug
- install and tighten fill plug
- start vehicle, cycle through all gears with foot on brake
- test drive through all gears
- clean tools and dispose of oil and used parts properly
Observations:
- oil pan screws were not tight when I checked them. The vehicle had never seen transmission service. A small amount of oil was moistening the leading and trailing edges of the pan gasket.
- magnets were about as dirty as I expected
- transmission never had problems shifting. It shifts nicely now, but I can not conclusively say it is because of the oil change
- in the future I may decide to due a full 12 quart flush through the cooling tubes
Drained and replaced 4qts of transmission fluid today, plus the screen, o-ring and pan gasket. First time I have done that. Took 2 1/2 hours including 2 breaks. I was working slowly. It is about a 1 hour job, working steadily and methodically.
Parts all available via online parts catalog at your local Toyota dealer.
Vehicle should be on a flat and level surface.
Parts:
- 4 qts Toyota WS transmission fluid
- 2 crush washers
- transmission oil pan gasket
- metal screen
- o-ring for metal screen
Tools:
- bottle-type transfer pump (I used an empty windshield wiper fluid bottle to hold the fresh oil)
- 10mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 24mm hex socket
- 6mm hex bit
- 6" socket extension
- ratchet drive
- oil catch pan/tub
- funnel
- paper towels
Procedure:
- check (crack open) that fill plug can be removed
- check (crack open) drain plug and level check plug, retighten temporarily
- check (crack open) each transmission oil pan screw to see that they can be removed
- position oil drain tub
- remove drain plug and level check plug, drain oil into tub
- throw away old crush washers
- install new crush washer on drain plug, install and tighten drain plug
- remove all but 2 (one on each side, opposite each other) of the 20 oil pan screws
- position the catch tub under the transmission, carefully remove by hand the remaining two screws, carefully lower the oil pan and tip the remaining oil into the catch tub *****THIS IS A FULLY ACCESSIBLE OPERATION ON A 1GR-FE 4.0L V6 4WD***** V8 powertrains require partial exhaust removal
- remove pan and drain tub to a convenient place, remove old gasket, clean magnet, wipe out inside of pan, wipe sealing surface, replace magnets
- gently place new gasket in position
- move pan under the transmission
- insert an oil pan screw through the pan and gasket, carefully start the screw by hand, then do the same with one screw opposite the first
- install remaining 18 screws and snug tight
- torque gradually in a diagonal pattern
- position oil tub under fill hole and level check hole
- pump in new oil until it flows out the level check hole
- install new crush washer on level check plug, install and tighten plug
- install and tighten fill plug
- start vehicle, cycle through all gears with foot on brake
- test drive through all gears
- clean tools and dispose of oil and used parts properly
Observations:
- oil pan screws were not tight when I checked them. The vehicle had never seen transmission service. A small amount of oil was moistening the leading and trailing edges of the pan gasket.
- magnets were about as dirty as I expected
- transmission never had problems shifting. It shifts nicely now, but I can not conclusively say it is because of the oil change
- in the future I may decide to due a full 12 quart flush through the cooling tubes
Recharged the air conditioning system with about 1 lb of R-134A with an AC PRO tank and gage.
Wow what a difference! The AC blows ice cold now.
The AC PRO canister and gage were easy to use. There are videos on the AC PRO website, and also independent videos to see how this is done. Easy. I have never recharged air conditioning before, so anyone can do this.
Wow what a difference! The AC blows ice cold now.
The AC PRO canister and gage were easy to use. There are videos on the AC PRO website, and also independent videos to see how this is done. Easy. I have never recharged air conditioning before, so anyone can do this.
UrbanRunnerNY
New member
My first Toyota ever and I absolutely it. Always been a Mercedes and Jeep guy, but decided to try a T4R to replace my Cherokee.
Changed fluid in both diffs, transfer case, replaced coolant, spark plugs and removed the carbon filter. Next weekend is oil change, trans service and greasing DS and u-joints. Weekend after that, leveling kit. Lots to do!
Changed fluid in both diffs, transfer case, replaced coolant, spark plugs and removed the carbon filter. Next weekend is oil change, trans service and greasing DS and u-joints. Weekend after that, leveling kit. Lots to do!
MikeinNH67
Senior Member
What did you use to clean it? Mine needs some help.
I came from XJ life too, I miss the size a bit but the 4runner is a comfy beast that handles bumps better. I also don't miss the spring wrap effect the Jeep had plus the body was falling apart.
Replaced the cabin air filter, it was very dirty after 14 years.
Replaced the forward dome light bulb.
Broke free the front axle drain plug! Used an air chisel, that was the trick. Maybe also the 2 weeks of penetrating oil having time to do its thing. The old plug is mangled and the hex drive is stripped beyond recovery. Ordered a new one from the local dealer. Hope to get the diff oil changed this weekend.
Replaced the forward dome light bulb.
Broke free the front axle drain plug! Used an air chisel, that was the trick. Maybe also the 2 weeks of penetrating oil having time to do its thing. The old plug is mangled and the hex drive is stripped beyond recovery. Ordered a new one from the local dealer. Hope to get the diff oil changed this weekend.
Mike, I used "carpet cleaner" in AutoZone. It is in an aerosol can, contains several versions of alcohol. Says it is good for blood, wine, etc. stain removal. I didn't get the brand, and I threw the can away already. I used a whole can on the carpet area in the rear seat floor. It worked great. Not sure if the slight odor has been eradicated, but at least the carpet looks great.
Terminator03
New member
I had a heck of a time with my front plug as well. When I first tried it and realized that stripping the hex was imminent if I twisted any harder, despite trying to shock it with a hammer and chisel, I immediately ordered a replacement before proceeding. Once I had it in hand, I went at it again, but for me, it required a mapp gas torch with a ton of heat before it broke loose. I used a liberal coating of anti-seize on the new plug, so hopefully it will come apart easier next time!
I also did my cabin filter this past weekend. I took it out last year and blew it off with my compressor last year, but decided to replace the whole thing this time because not only was it clogged with tree debris, but also very discolored.
kcdehart
New member
With all the frame rust fun I was having, I forgot to mention I finally removed XREAS after several months of driving around with the lines cut off (after installing 5100s/OME springs)
Also, in hunting down a front end clunk, I think I have the infamous needle bearing failure on the driver's side. Planning to do the east cost gear supply clamshell bushing when I get some free time.
Also, in hunting down a front end clunk, I think I have the infamous needle bearing failure on the driver's side. Planning to do the east cost gear supply clamshell bushing when I get some free time.
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
How did you go about aiming them?
after replacing my entire carpet, Im still chasing that smell as well. There was avery obvious spot under the carpet where most of the smell was coming from, spilled pop or something. I think its in the seats as well so I have an appointment scheduled to get them cleaned. its not a terrible smeell, but I just cant stand it.
There’s a dial on the back of the headlight housing that you can turn to angle the headlights up or down. Super easy to get to and do with the right socket. Here’s a link to the forum I used to figure it out: Aiming Headlights on 4th Gen 4runner
NNV4Runner
New member
Put new 265/70R17's on mine today. Goodyear A/T's, Load Range E.
No Rub, Handles Better, Can't wait to take it Wheeling!
#NoMoreHighwayTires!
No Rub, Handles Better, Can't wait to take it Wheeling!
#NoMoreHighwayTires!
MY06T4R
Member
So my day started very interesting
it all stated yesterday when I decided to replace my fuel tank straps, if you saw my previous post from a week or so ago when I upgraded to the URD fuel pump with external fuel filter, what I didn't mention was that one of my straps was rusted in two and I had to weld it together until I could get new straps. They came in a few days later and I eventually painted them and decided to install them yesterday. Well I had an idiot attack and didn't use a jack, I ended up getting a fuel tank of fuel dropped on my face. I put it all back together and forgot to check the plug on top the tank. When I got up for work and started my car it ran then died. I knew what happened the wires were pulled out of plug. I had to re-pin the plug. As I have had no luck finding the pin locations for the fuel gauge I figured I would share the pin order for the connector. The connector is numbered 1-5. #1 is blank and blocked off, pins 2 & 3 are for the fuel gauge, pin 2 is the yellow wire and pin 3 is the red wire, you can identify the gauge wires because they are the smaller of the 4 wires and those colors. Pins 4 & 5 are heavier gauge wires. Pin 4 is black with red and pin 5 is white with black. I hope my idiocy will help someone. :der::dancin:
it all stated yesterday when I decided to replace my fuel tank straps, if you saw my previous post from a week or so ago when I upgraded to the URD fuel pump with external fuel filter, what I didn't mention was that one of my straps was rusted in two and I had to weld it together until I could get new straps. They came in a few days later and I eventually painted them and decided to install them yesterday. Well I had an idiot attack and didn't use a jack, I ended up getting a fuel tank of fuel dropped on my face. I put it all back together and forgot to check the plug on top the tank. When I got up for work and started my car it ran then died. I knew what happened the wires were pulled out of plug. I had to re-pin the plug. As I have had no luck finding the pin locations for the fuel gauge I figured I would share the pin order for the connector. The connector is numbered 1-5. #1 is blank and blocked off, pins 2 & 3 are for the fuel gauge, pin 2 is the yellow wire and pin 3 is the red wire, you can identify the gauge wires because they are the smaller of the 4 wires and those colors. Pins 4 & 5 are heavier gauge wires. Pin 4 is black with red and pin 5 is white with black. I hope my idiocy will help someone. :der::dancin:
5thgenyota
New member
Plan on draining the transmission fluid in my 13 SR5. Has just over 100k. Deciding if I want to drop the pan as well and clean that out and the filter I believe? Need to see if I have a Bluetooth obd reader and order the fluid. Should be all good for a while after that as far as PM.
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