What did you do with your 4runner today?
- Thread starter NorthGa4R
- Start date
JuniorPigeon
New member
Put some new wheels and tires on the ol' girl last Friday. The wait for each of them was rough but so worth it!
SCS F5 17x9 -38/Goodyear DuraTrac 315/70
SCS F5 17x9 -38/Goodyear DuraTrac 315/70
Installed my $290 Toyota intermediate steering shaft.
Off 1 tooth.
No more rattles at all though.
Despite all attach points having paint marks, flat to flat areas for the thru stopper bolts, I managed to not trust the angle that I had the steering wheel bungeed. There must be enough room on the flats to turn the shaft 1 tooth and still get the stopper bolt through. Time to go out and try to move the collar one way and reattach. The whole thing took 1 hour, with 45 minutes of it trying to loosen the collar.
Off 1 tooth.
No more rattles at all though.
Despite all attach points having paint marks, flat to flat areas for the thru stopper bolts, I managed to not trust the angle that I had the steering wheel bungeed. There must be enough room on the flats to turn the shaft 1 tooth and still get the stopper bolt through. Time to go out and try to move the collar one way and reattach. The whole thing took 1 hour, with 45 minutes of it trying to loosen the collar.
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Took 10 minutes to pop off the bolts and get it lined up. Will go in and thread lock the bolts tomorrow.
It is amazing over my washboard road and downhill entry to sharp uphill left turn with a bump into my drive how solid it is now.
hgill
Member
After noticing an unusual noise coming when the 4runner was coasting - it sounded like the engine was revving, I was able to diagnose it as a bad driver side wheel bearing thanks to this awesome forum.
Called our local stealership and they wanted around $970 for both front hub assemblies. Found a member [05Taco4x4] on the tacoma forums that sells quality hub assemblies and ordered through him for a third of the price. He was quick to respond and shipped out the hub assemblies the very next day.
Also finally got around to swapping out the second key fob to AJTdesigns key fob replacement.
Called our local stealership and they wanted around $970 for both front hub assemblies. Found a member [05Taco4x4] on the tacoma forums that sells quality hub assemblies and ordered through him for a third of the price. He was quick to respond and shipped out the hub assemblies the very next day.
Also finally got around to swapping out the second key fob to AJTdesigns key fob replacement.
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Sausage_gut
New member
Put some new wheels and tires on the ol' girl last Friday. The wait for each of them was rough but so worth it!
SCS F5 17x9 -38/Goodyear DuraTrac 315/70
Looks good
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Replaced one of the u joints, the OE one had lasted 250k. I started to get a drive line vibration that seemed to peak at around 25mph, over the course of two days it went from mild to wow something serious is happening here. As a guess I picked up an Universal joint from the local auto parts store, store brand, for $12.99 on my way home from work.
Upon removal of the driveshaft it was clear that one of the bearing cups was in bad shape, 45 minutes with a hammer later I had the joint replaced. After a quick test drive, the vibration is now all gone.
FYI
My 4Runner is a 2wd so it only has 2 u joints the OEM are not grease-able, only the front joint was bad. The drive shaft is a solid 1 piece design. The rear of the driveshaft unbolts from the rear with 4 14mm nuts, I found taking one or two of the studs out made removing the driveshaft significantly easier.
The replacement joint does have a grease zerk but is quite difficult to get to once the driveshaft is installed.
Upon removal of the driveshaft it was clear that one of the bearing cups was in bad shape, 45 minutes with a hammer later I had the joint replaced. After a quick test drive, the vibration is now all gone.
FYI
My 4Runner is a 2wd so it only has 2 u joints the OEM are not grease-able, only the front joint was bad. The drive shaft is a solid 1 piece design. The rear of the driveshaft unbolts from the rear with 4 14mm nuts, I found taking one or two of the studs out made removing the driveshaft significantly easier.
The replacement joint does have a grease zerk but is quite difficult to get to once the driveshaft is installed.
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xtremewlr
Member
Oil and filter changed today. Also sucked out as much brake fluid from the reservoir that I could get and replaced with new DOT 3. Then I burned in the passenger side Marlin HD LCA frame braces. Do the driver side tomorrow.
Driver side done this morning. Stock skids fit, just have to trim them a little bit in a couple spots to clear the braces.
xtremewlr
Member
I installed Tin's center console switch guard...no more being stranded leaving the light bar on...unless I work at it. 4mx16mm cap bolts FTW! Great piece of work and design and it looks "right" and tasteful! Well done Momo and Tin!
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Nice, just placed an order for one. I've always been afraid I would hit switched there by accident.
y=mx+b
New member
If your straps were making a load vibrating noise in the wind, you can twist them so they have a more round profile, and they won't vibrate. The flat strap in the wind is like a reed on a clarinet type deal, it vibrates and makes a noise.
I've also made the mistake of putting a strap going underneath the roof rack but over the roof. Even with it twisted, the straps still vibrate a tad, just without the noise. But because it was close to the roof, it was contacting the roof and making an annoying noise. I stuffed the gab with some pool noodles instead of restrapping everything.
gimlithepirate
New member
Cleaned the headlights with one of those restorer kits from Turtle Wax. Surprisingly, did not have to buff at all. Difference is night and day:
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Also, washed and rainX'd the front and rear windows.
I think I've got my big winter project planned out. Ebay Bumper, 9k winch, SuperPro offset LCA, and gas tank lean spacer, plus I'll move the Eibach struts up to the second perch. All of that should set me back about 1500.
Normally wouldn't mess with the bumper, but previous owner banged it up, so it needs to be replaced. If I replace the bumper and adjust the shocks, I've got to get it aligned anyway, and the previous shop told me I needed new LCA bushings. By the time I replace bushings and bolts, I'm half way to new arms, which also have new ball joints. At 180k miles, this is not something I want to screw with, so I'm just going to get the new ones and call it a day.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Also, washed and rainX'd the front and rear windows.
I think I've got my big winter project planned out. Ebay Bumper, 9k winch, SuperPro offset LCA, and gas tank lean spacer, plus I'll move the Eibach struts up to the second perch. All of that should set me back about 1500.
Normally wouldn't mess with the bumper, but previous owner banged it up, so it needs to be replaced. If I replace the bumper and adjust the shocks, I've got to get it aligned anyway, and the previous shop told me I needed new LCA bushings. By the time I replace bushings and bolts, I'm half way to new arms, which also have new ball joints. At 180k miles, this is not something I want to screw with, so I'm just going to get the new ones and call it a day.
Sausage_gut
New member
Pushed out a dent. It still has waves but it’s not bad enough to make it a priority over other things
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
shootersanks
New member
This weekend I finally had time to replace my XREAS suspension with 5100s and FJ springs. It wasn't easy but with all the walk throughs on this site and some youtube videos I was able to do it by myself in a day.
ieatfish
Member
So Bilstein on all corners and FJ springs as well? How much of a lift does that give you? Thoughts so far?
Cascade4runner
New member
Got under the truck today and greased all the zerks (Amsoil Moly and Heavy Duty), then got rear and front diff fluid changed out to Amsoil as well. Still have to do center diff but made a lot of progress. New grease gun got stuck on one of the zerks too, that was a pain!
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