What did you do with your 4runner today?
- Thread starter NorthGa4R
- Start date
Hi-desertT4R
Member
daprotege5
Member
so my mother borrowed the truck, serpentine belt shredded and she decided to keep driving it, belt wrapped around the fan and the crank pulley. some of the belt wedged into the crank pulley and is still there but looks like it messed up the crank seal so having to remove whatever neccessary to get this thing back up and sealed.
Hi-desertT4R
Member
Damn that sucks
The quickest, cheapest and one of the best resulting mods on my entire build.. have a few more leds I’ll update this week and will tackle the climate control module when the 3mm leds arrive but overall I’m beyond happy with the results. No more 20 year old factory dash glow.
I'll have maybe $100 into this entire led conversion and that includes getting a new decent fine-tip soldering iron form amazon.
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I'll have maybe $100 into this entire led conversion and that includes getting a new decent fine-tip soldering iron form amazon.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Bluesky 07
Senior Member
Installed Eibach coilovers and TRQ/1A Auto LCAs. This completed my transition to an all-Eicach setup as I had installed their rear shocks & springs some time ago. Front end is thus just about all new as I still have the UCAs I got from a 2020 Tacoma TRD Offroad. Truck rides and handles far better than it ever has in the 8+ years I’ve owned it.
This LCA bushing is typical of what they all looked like, not surprisingly I suppose at 15+ years and 236K miles.
This LCA bushing is typical of what they all looked like, not surprisingly I suppose at 15+ years and 236K miles.
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TLar25
New member
I don't mind the orange glow, but man this looks good!The quickest, cheapest and one of the best resulting mods on my entire build.. have a few more leds I’ll update this week and will tackle the climate control module when the 3mm leds arrive but overall I’m beyond happy with the results. No more 20 year old factory dash glow.
I'll have maybe $100 into this entire led conversion and that includes getting a new decent fine-tip soldering iron form amazon.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Hi-desertT4R
Member
This just means it’s time for a metal bumper.
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
And now for a brief comic interlude. These are the before measurements from the alignment after I installed new front coilovers and LCAs. Yeah, I went 2 for 6, but in my defense, it seemed some of my match marks disappeared during the install.
The drive to the shop was an adventure. I would turn a corner or go around a curve and the truck would just keep trying to turn to that side. Felt more like it was driving me. Happy to say all is now well.
The drive to the shop was an adventure. I would turn a corner or go around a curve and the truck would just keep trying to turn to that side. Felt more like it was driving me. Happy to say all is now well.
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
Finished my front suspension refresh with TRQ/1A Auto sway bar links. They look pretty solid and compare to OEM:
Installation tip: 1A Auto has a nice video but they don't mention that the bolt ends will take a 6mm Allen wrench. If you have a ratcheting flat wrench, using an Allen wrench to keep the bolt from spinning is much easier than holding the bolt on the other side of the mount. That applies to removal and installation (the OEM bolts have the Allen wrench opening too). Also, torque spec is 52 ft lbs but I couldn't get the wrench to click. Visions of broken bolts led me to settle for TAGN (That Ain't Goin' Nowhere).
My front end now consists of:
UCAs - 2020 Tacoma TRD Offroad
LCAs & sway bar links - TRQ/1A Auto
Coilovers - Eibach
Bump stops: Wheeler’s Superbumps
Ride and handling are hands down the best since I bought the truck in 2014.
Next up:
OEM brakes all around
SS brake lines
Radiator, water pump, thermostat (ordered those today)
Installation tip: 1A Auto has a nice video but they don't mention that the bolt ends will take a 6mm Allen wrench. If you have a ratcheting flat wrench, using an Allen wrench to keep the bolt from spinning is much easier than holding the bolt on the other side of the mount. That applies to removal and installation (the OEM bolts have the Allen wrench opening too). Also, torque spec is 52 ft lbs but I couldn't get the wrench to click. Visions of broken bolts led me to settle for TAGN (That Ain't Goin' Nowhere).
My front end now consists of:
UCAs - 2020 Tacoma TRD Offroad
LCAs & sway bar links - TRQ/1A Auto
Coilovers - Eibach
Bump stops: Wheeler’s Superbumps
Ride and handling are hands down the best since I bought the truck in 2014.
Next up:
OEM brakes all around
SS brake lines
Radiator, water pump, thermostat (ordered those today)
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Bassturd
New member
The old girl got 12 quarts of WS today. The old stuff had 200k on it and looked it for sure hahahaha. The weather has been super trashy here and with no garage I decided to cheat and just take it to the shop and use the lift. I still did it through the return line and just hand pumped the fluid about 2 quarts at a time.
Hi-desertT4R
Member
Installed front Durobumps. Trail ride tomorrow with the Battle Born Toyotas crew.
originalg00kster
New member
I booked my appointment for the TNF front bumper install. Woo! I also recently just bought myself the 95L roam adventure box with their mounts for my roof rack. Looks great up top and also much needed storage since I sleep in my vehicle.
Switch pros has been on my mind, I want to clean up my wiring.
Switch pros has been on my mind, I want to clean up my wiring.
Considering doing this on mine with 217k but a little nervous to do a full exchange. No issues with yours?
Bassturd
New member
So far so good. I should’ve done 14 quarts just to make sure I got it all but Alldata said 12 quart capacity so that’s what I went with. I’ll be doing a drain and fills on it more often seeing as it’s really not too complicated checking the fluid. Well worth the $145 in fluid.
daprotege5
Member
Fixed the rear window.
When i bought it, first my wiper didn't work, than i realized the window didn't roll down. So took the back apart and noticed it was unplugged, plugged it back in and my window moved a bit, enough to get the wiper working again. that was months ago.
So looking at things yesterday, appears the regulator rotted and they just tied it together and called it a day. now when i went to install the new regulator i got in the mail, i took the old stuff out, and found that a little L shaped bracket was holding the window together with a screw on the body. so once i took that out the window moved freely. but all the regulator tabs were rotted off. as i attempted to dremel them off the window tabs, i guess the heating from cutting the rusted nuts, melted the nut through the plastic so the rotted brackets came free on 3 of them. one was so rotted it just broke up the tab with it.
so i took out the glass, cleaned everything up.
now when i went to remove the motor off the rusted one i broke the motor casing. cheapest around was $500 so looked in the junkyard today. found a regulator with motor attached for $140. so i have a brand new oem regulator for the rear window that i ordered in wrapping that i put up for sale.
mounted the junkyard regulator and motor, it moved but crawled when it got to the top. so greased the lines and rails and after two cycles, it smoothly works perfect.
When i bought it, first my wiper didn't work, than i realized the window didn't roll down. So took the back apart and noticed it was unplugged, plugged it back in and my window moved a bit, enough to get the wiper working again. that was months ago.
So looking at things yesterday, appears the regulator rotted and they just tied it together and called it a day. now when i went to install the new regulator i got in the mail, i took the old stuff out, and found that a little L shaped bracket was holding the window together with a screw on the body. so once i took that out the window moved freely. but all the regulator tabs were rotted off. as i attempted to dremel them off the window tabs, i guess the heating from cutting the rusted nuts, melted the nut through the plastic so the rotted brackets came free on 3 of them. one was so rotted it just broke up the tab with it.
so i took out the glass, cleaned everything up.
now when i went to remove the motor off the rusted one i broke the motor casing. cheapest around was $500 so looked in the junkyard today. found a regulator with motor attached for $140. so i have a brand new oem regulator for the rear window that i ordered in wrapping that i put up for sale.
mounted the junkyard regulator and motor, it moved but crawled when it got to the top. so greased the lines and rails and after two cycles, it smoothly works perfect.
Stitched on a new steering wheel cover over the factory leather. Gave it some more girth but not bad for $40
I did the same thing, but on the factory wheel. Probably bought the kit from the same place too lol. I could have spent more time doing it, but overall it came out amazing for the money.
Sidenote, is that a 5th gen wheel? Looks like quite a bit of a refresh over the factory wheel, I like it.
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