What did you do with your 4runner today?
- Thread starter NorthGa4R
- Start date
Got passenger side rockauto cat/manifold in easy.
Donut was bad for sure, and hopefully the egg smell will go away as well as the p0420.
Driver side lower bracket bolt is frozen and rounded so at a shop waiting to get it torched off.
Already had replaced O2 sensors, plugs, fuel cap, pcv valve and no luck but it does have nearly 230k on it and had a bad head gasket at 150k miles that perhaps helped degrade the cats.
Donut was bad for sure, and hopefully the egg smell will go away as well as the p0420.
Driver side lower bracket bolt is frozen and rounded so at a shop waiting to get it torched off.
Already had replaced O2 sensors, plugs, fuel cap, pcv valve and no luck but it does have nearly 230k on it and had a bad head gasket at 150k miles that perhaps helped degrade the cats.
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originalg00kster
New member
Ran out of paint already lol. One can down, 6 more cans of adhesion promoter and 6 cans of black on the way
How hard was it to remove dash?
Upper dash was already black, obviously. The knee panel wasn't bad really, just pop out a few 10mm bolts on the bottom and start pulling on it. Disconnect any switches and your hood/fuel door releases.
originalg00kster
New member
oh damn, I thought you painted the top part. I think my dash is grey?
Yeah I think the "black" inside is a really dark gray after painting the lower dash piece in actual black. Oh well. Some pieces on the interior are actual black like the cubby under the HVAC control panel and cup holders. My black Weathertech mats are actually black too and match the new pieces very well.
originalg00kster
New member
Are you gonna do the carpet? Lol
Yep. Replacement carpet in black is around $200.
originalg00kster
New member
Nice that's not bad. Probably better to buy than spray with fabric paint/dye.
Ya. Some of the stuff will have to get sprayed like the carpet on the seats but I may look into just covering it instead.
Bassturd
New member
I haven’t pulled a 4Runner dash but I have pulled several Ford dashes. They are easier then they appear but go slow and don’t force anything. Lots of hidden screws behind vents, appliqués, bezels! I have better luck pulling the dashes with the support bar and transferring everything over outside the vehicle then putting the whole assembly back in.
Got the LED Flasher relay from Diode Dynamics, adapter harness from Toyota and new LED bulbs in. Previously I had LEDs in the rear with a built in resistor from LasFit. I really liked them, they were super bright but only lasted 2 1/2 years and at $50 a pair, I couldn’t justify the price tag of replacing them.
For this change, I was not interested in wiring in resistors but definitely wanted LEDs everywhere and eliminate the hyperflash. Unfortunately this does make you lose the DRLs which is unfortunate, I will miss those as I like the benefit of being seen better when the headlights are off, kind of the point of switching to LEDs. It really makes me cringe at the thought of cutting the factory harness. So after some searching through the forums, I decided on changing the flasher relay, which accomplishes what I intended which was being able to run any LEDs I wanted to without a huge price tag. I ended up with Sylvania LEDs for both front and rear for their “Lifetime” warranty and what I see as a reasonable price. I am pleased with the rears, but the fronts are not impressive. Two reasons for that, the housing of my after market headlights is full black and does not capture and reflect the light out like a chrome or polished housing would. Secondly, the bulb is not clocked correctly in the housing, so even if it was a chrome housing, it would not be using the light output to its fullest. To remedy this, I’ll be looking for new bulbs in the front that have more of a 360° design and maybe a forward facing lens.
For this change, I was not interested in wiring in resistors but definitely wanted LEDs everywhere and eliminate the hyperflash. Unfortunately this does make you lose the DRLs which is unfortunate, I will miss those as I like the benefit of being seen better when the headlights are off, kind of the point of switching to LEDs. It really makes me cringe at the thought of cutting the factory harness. So after some searching through the forums, I decided on changing the flasher relay, which accomplishes what I intended which was being able to run any LEDs I wanted to without a huge price tag. I ended up with Sylvania LEDs for both front and rear for their “Lifetime” warranty and what I see as a reasonable price. I am pleased with the rears, but the fronts are not impressive. Two reasons for that, the housing of my after market headlights is full black and does not capture and reflect the light out like a chrome or polished housing would. Secondly, the bulb is not clocked correctly in the housing, so even if it was a chrome housing, it would not be using the light output to its fullest. To remedy this, I’ll be looking for new bulbs in the front that have more of a 360° design and maybe a forward facing lens.
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dirty monkey
Member
miller507
New member
How are you liking that isolator? I'll probably go the blue seas route everybody goes, but doesn't hurt to see other options.
I'm running 2 subs and 3 class d amps one is a 4channel pushing around 3krms give or take on a 1000cca deep cycle battery upfront, Big 3 and 0 gauge front to back.
Voltage drops a bit to low 11 at stop lights with out dimming issues. Will probably add a battery in the back when I add a winch
More black interior progress. Door panels are done too, just have to install them. Dash is 90% done, the pieces behind the glove box will have to be done in the car, UGH. Center console is also done. Fun fact, the black plastic in the Runner was painted gray from the factory
Ph03n1x24
Member
So far, so good! It's working great.
As you can tell by the pictures, I couldn't leave well enough alone and upgraded to a ported sub box which gave me an additional 3db at the same power as the bigger sealed enclosure from before. I am noticing though that once isolated w/ the ignition off the secondary battery HC600 drops down to about 9.7~10 volts. This tells me that my Kinetik is fading and needs replaced although I have seen that this voltage is still ok. I am going to replace it as these batteries are inexpensive and are relatively reliable for audio applications.
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