As sweet as they look, the driver side air injection tube is about 3/4” too short. Wtf! Hopefully URD can make it right. Already had to pay for a rental car for a week (sucks not having an extra car)
What did you do with your 4runner today?
- Thread starter NorthGa4R
- Start date
As sweet as they look, the driver side air injection tube is about 3/4” too short. Wtf! Hopefully URD can make it right. Already had to pay for a rental car for a week (sucks not having an extra car)
t-rex grrr 2
Junior Member
wow, that's a major fail! sorry to hear about that. hopefully they give you some sort of inconvenience discount.
Kind of doubt it. Going to try going directly to Thorley since this should be covered under the 5 year workmanship warranty. Plus they are in CA so if they have it in stock, it should get here pretty quick.
That's crazy.. I've been slowly eyeing/planning various upgrades to do during a head gasket job, and this was one item I was considering.. I wonder how often these errors come up.
I was a bit off on that 3/4" measurement, it's actually more like 3/8" but still no where close to being able to bolt that connection up. I don't think this is a common thing and I hope Thorley can make it right as my only car is down for the count.
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
I had a terrific Memorial Day running some trails in the beautiful Chattahoochee National Forest but unfortunately had to cut it short. I had backed into an empty dispersed camping spot to have a snack and the truck had a little hiccup when I started it up. Decided the middle of nowhere with no cell service wasn't the place to have an electrical problem so I went and had the charging system checked at two separate auto parts stores. Both said the voltage regulator failed. Which means the OEM alternator I just installed last July has to be replaced again. 
At least it's under their 12-month warranty for parts installed by a third party.
The day was great while it lasted. Here's a pano of that camping spot.
At least it's under their 12-month warranty for parts installed by a third party.The day was great while it lasted. Here's a pano of that camping spot.
vonRunner
Member
Wow, that's not something I would have expected to hear with those. Hope you're able to get it sorted out quickly and don't have to abandon the upgrade!
Yeah same. DT got back to me yesterday and said they'll have a solution today at the latest. Glad they are on top of it. And really missing having a 3rd vehicle at the moment lol
rhoyneriver
Member
how did you fix that? I've got a stuck skid plate bolt on the front left (under passenger side I guess) that I've been wrestling with here and there for the last year haha
I bought a file that I plan to try to re-square the bolt head to try and get it off. the only other thing I haven't tried is a blowtorch
Hi-desertT4R
Member
My bolt wasn’t broken off inside the welded nut in the frame just stripped threads. I was able to drill it larger and re-tap it to 10mm. Idk bud, maybe PB Blaster everyday for like a week straight and if you can get a vice grips on it after filing some flat spots. I like to replace the thumb screws on my vice grips with eye bolts so you can crank down on them. Maybe a a couple sharp strikes with a ball peen hammer then try and twist it out or drill and easy out.
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
I had a stuck bolt (not the skid plate but same problem). Got a set of these and it was out in no time.
rhoyneriver
Member
I actually tried a set of those from Home Depot and they didn't help, and ended up making it worse.
I still need to try the file when I get time, and see if I can't make it more square
Man this DT header install has been a rough one. Biggest takeaway is to not do a project this big without having another car to drive daily lol. Rental car for 2 weeks added $500 to the bill on these :nono:
Also be prepared for anything, I bought stainless MIG flux core wire off Amazon which turned out to be the wrong answer. Ended up TIG welding the cats on. Not sure what I would have done without having the TIG handy. Also spent way too much time making jigs to mock up and weld the new ones that I never ended up using because the jigs did not line up with the DT header and OEM cat. Instructions state to remove both OEM manifolds, cut the cats off, bolt everything back up then tack weld the headers to the cats. I should have done this from the start.
Don't count on the EGR tube flange being in the right spot from DT. Mine is 3/8" further away from the OEM air injection tube so I had to come up with a way to take up the gap. 2 new Remflex gaskets and a custom made stainless spacer and longer bolts is what I came up with. See attached. Because the flange sat 3/8" further away, that meant I also had that much less room to put the rear most nut on the header to head connection. That stud got removed in favor of an M10x1.25 Toyota bolt I had laying around :nono:
Also, I'm in the final stages of assembly and have zero clue how to torque some of these bolts down with a socket and torque wrench. There are 2 or 3 per side that you can only get a combo wrench on, zero room for a socket. Good-n-tight will have to suffice I suppose.
Also be prepared for anything, I bought stainless MIG flux core wire off Amazon which turned out to be the wrong answer. Ended up TIG welding the cats on. Not sure what I would have done without having the TIG handy. Also spent way too much time making jigs to mock up and weld the new ones that I never ended up using because the jigs did not line up with the DT header and OEM cat. Instructions state to remove both OEM manifolds, cut the cats off, bolt everything back up then tack weld the headers to the cats. I should have done this from the start.
Don't count on the EGR tube flange being in the right spot from DT. Mine is 3/8" further away from the OEM air injection tube so I had to come up with a way to take up the gap. 2 new Remflex gaskets and a custom made stainless spacer and longer bolts is what I came up with. See attached. Because the flange sat 3/8" further away, that meant I also had that much less room to put the rear most nut on the header to head connection. That stud got removed in favor of an M10x1.25 Toyota bolt I had laying around :nono:
Also, I'm in the final stages of assembly and have zero clue how to torque some of these bolts down with a socket and torque wrench. There are 2 or 3 per side that you can only get a combo wrench on, zero room for a socket. Good-n-tight will have to suffice I suppose.
Attachments
vonRunner
Member
Awesome! Bet you're happy to have that one over with haha. Look forward to hearing what you think after you get some time behind the wheel.
rhoyneriver
Member
Spent an hour or two fixing a clogged sunroof drain. It was the rear driver's side which is supposed to be the hardest to access. However, I realized you could just pull the tube that is visible next to the jack storage out of its gasket thing and you can access it from there.
I tried to use string trimmer (seen in the photos) but I couldn't get it further than 2-3 feet up. I read people saying not to use compressed air or you could pop the fittings apart, but I have a regulator on my compressor and only used 30~ psi and I think that fixed it. After running air through it (from the top near the sunroof and near the bottom), I was flushing through some dirt which I could see in the water bottle I was using to catch.
Also, using the water bottle as a catch helped me to determine if all the water was flowing through. Previously, some was leaking out above the rear driver side door, and running down into the rear cargo area and floor of the driver's side seat.
Here's a photo album: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Now I just need to figure out why my parking lights/DRL won't turn off when the truck is off. I'm still having some type of short or ground issue but it is no longer causing the rear wipers to go off constantly (while the truck is off). But I have to pull the IG1 fuse to stop the DRL's from draining my battery.
Tested my battery and it came out fine.
I tried to use string trimmer (seen in the photos) but I couldn't get it further than 2-3 feet up. I read people saying not to use compressed air or you could pop the fittings apart, but I have a regulator on my compressor and only used 30~ psi and I think that fixed it. After running air through it (from the top near the sunroof and near the bottom), I was flushing through some dirt which I could see in the water bottle I was using to catch.
Also, using the water bottle as a catch helped me to determine if all the water was flowing through. Previously, some was leaking out above the rear driver side door, and running down into the rear cargo area and floor of the driver's side seat.
Here's a photo album: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Now I just need to figure out why my parking lights/DRL won't turn off when the truck is off. I'm still having some type of short or ground issue but it is no longer causing the rear wipers to go off constantly (while the truck is off). But I have to pull the IG1 fuse to stop the DRL's from draining my battery.
Tested my battery and it came out fine.
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