What did you do with your 4runner today?

How difficultwas the Apex quick disonnect install?

As long as you have the tools, it's really not that difficult. I had 3 friends over in my garage all doing some pre-trip maintenance on our rigs for an upcoming trip. Even with being social and slightly inebriated, I was done in 5ish hours. Re-routing the ABS line was probably the most tedious in my opinion.

The drilling part is super easy with the included drill guides. The written instructions as well as the video they have are both super informative and pretty easy to follow.
 
My 2007 SR-5 didn't have a trailer hitch. Replaced the bumper with the cutout version and installed the weight distributing hitch from a V8.

<a href="https://imgur.com/j6Khgr9"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/j6Khgr9.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/MLmVea6"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/MLmVea6.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
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Purchased a Coastal Offroad bumper.
Picked up my powder coated FJ rims (gunmetal w/ clear coat)from the shop.

Weekend plans:
- plug a hole in a wildpeak AT3W tire so that I can have them mounted on my "new" rims on Monday
- practice welding for when I pick-up my bumper next month
- update my car maintenance record book, as I've yet to do so since October when I purchased my rig.
 
Purchased a Coastal Offroad bumper.
Picked up my powder coated FJ rims (gunmetal w/ clear coat)from the shop.

Weekend plans:
- plug a hole in a wildpeak AT3W tire so that I can have them mounted on my "new" rims on Monday
- practice welding for when I pick-up my bumper next month
- update my car maintenance record book, as I've yet to do so since October when I purchased my rig.

Be sure and post an "after" picture(s).
 
Be sure and post an "after" picture(s).

Here's a sneak peek. I like simplicity in rims, and was a big fan of my Rota Grids from my first car back in the day. Kind of an homage to that.
 

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I was just starting to think my one year new to me 2003 T4R was becoming reliable. BIG MISTAKE. Got the brake warning light and solid chime. Booster pump was bad. Replaced it with a spare pump from the parts stache. Pump code is gone. Now have accumulator low code. I think that is related to bleed. It's dark now so bleed will have to wait.
 
I was just starting to think my one year new to me 2003 T4R was becoming reliable. BIG MISTAKE. Got the brake warning light and solid chime. Booster pump was bad. Replaced it with a spare pump from the parts stache. Pump code is gone. Now have accumulator low code. I think that is related to bleed. It's dark now so bleed will have to wait.


Keep us posted, I have an '03 too and not wanting to have that happen!
 
Topping off reservoir and bleed took care of accumulator low code. I cleared ABS module codes to be sure. All warning lights are gone. Took a quick lap of the neighborhood and the brakes are back. I'm going to carry a 10mm wrench and a bottle of Dot 3 until I trust my work.
 
Reverted to stock tires on gunmetal FJ cruiser rims.
Fixed up some plug issues
Installed poly sway bar bushings, no more clunks!
Sold/Shipped some stock skid plates that I had refreshed/painted to a 4Runner owner up in Yukon (before the postal strike)
 

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I ordered some cat converter guard plates and removed the roof rack. I never use the thing and it cuts down on a bunch of wind noise at high speed :)
 
Snapped off two of my rear sway bar bolts which is awesome.

Why the hell is it so hard to put those bolts in with no tension on the bar?

Bonus if anyone has ideas on repair. I think the bolts are just seized in place so I'm planning to drill them out and probably just toss in a rivnut to replace the original welded nut.
 
i need to ask a quistion. i want a trailer hitch for my 07 4runner. should i go with an aftermarker? i REALLY think it would be best to use an OEM. what do yall think?
 
My 5 year old battery took a crap when trying to leave for work yesterday so I went and purchased a new AGM battery today. Group 24f AGM battery from Wally World was under 200 bucks. We’ll see if it lasts. Cleaned up a little corrosion under the plastic battery tray and also cleaned and repainted the battery hold down. Wire brushed all the cable ends and battery to body ground as well. Inspected the wiring to the transfer case and ADD actuator because the 4lo light started coming on while driving highway speeds during a trip from So. NV to Sedona AZ. Only thing I found was the end of the vacuum (breather?) line to the Tcase actuator was split. Still need to go run up the pass to see if the 4lo light comes back on. It’s very strange.
 

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New Duralast AGM group 24F, alternator, ignition coils x6, serpentine belt, idlers x3 and tensioner.
I see now why people try to just replace the idler on the tensioner bracket. Changing that tensioner assembly was a CHORE! While putting the battery back in to finish things up, I noticed the ground cable from negative terminal to body is hanging on by a thread. I’m gonna have to figure out how involved I want to get in that.
 

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