What to look for in a cargo trailer...

bofa

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I'm planning to pick up an enclosed 5x8 V-nose trailer for our upcoming move across country. I'll probably get some other uses out of it before and after the move but that size should be sufficient for what I don't plan to send with the movers. Anyway... I'm totally new to this and have no idea what to look for in a cargo trailer. From what I gather, something that size doesn't need brakes. They all look pretty similar. I imagine the wheels and axle are probably the biggest difference I've noticed so far.

So, any tips, tricks, or regrets? Thanks!
 
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Depends on it's loaded weight

After it's loaded (safely of course), what will it weigh?? Anything over 1500 pounds , and I would highly recommend trailer brakes. The extra weight will need to be stopped by your truck brakes, and adding 1500+ cargo pounds will be harder to stop. Be safe.
 
Really, for just 1500 lb gross? I imagine an empty 5x8 weighs about 1000lb alone. None of the 5x8s, I've seen come with brakes, even U-hauls, but if there's a safety concern I will certainly consider it.

I don't really know how heavy the load will be just yet. I'd guess a little under 1,000 lbs.
 
It's your call

Really, for just 1500 lb gross? I imagine an empty 5x8 weighs about 1000lb alone. None of the 5x8s, I've seen come with brakes, even U-hauls, but if there's a safety concern I will certainly consider it.

I don't really know how heavy the load will be just yet. I'd guess a little under 1,000 lbs.

Mass is mass. It has to be stopped, and trailer brakes are there to take care of it so your truck doesn't have to. If the trailer doesn't have brakes, and you take it easy, it will probably be fine. Just leave plenty of extra safety distance between the vehicles in front of you on the highway.
 
Personally, I don't think you need brakes. I have a single axle 6 by 12 enclosed with no brakes and it is fine. I regularly load it up with an atv, tow behind brush cutter, fuel, chainsaw, gear, and sometimes wood. It pulls perfectly fine and it is just a bit of a pain in rush hour but driving on the freeway is fine. I have loaded it up for dump runs, wood chips, furniture to move without any problems. My guess is that a 5x8 v-nose should be easy for you to tow.

TIP 1: Spend the extra money and get a spare rim/tire. The last thing you want to do is be in the middle of nowhere with no spare.

TIP 2: Buy as many locks as you can afford.

TIP 3: When it is empty, leave the trailer unlocked so that a thief doesn't break your locks or door to get in. You can lock the tongue and wheels, but don't lock the cargo area.
 
Most trailers are made the same except when you get into the all aluminum ones like the Featherlite and Aluma. Buy something that looks nice and run with it.
 
Most trailers are made the same except when you get into the all aluminum ones like the Featherlite and Aluma. Buy something that looks nice and run with it.

Agree. Personally, I think the aluminum ones are way too expensive. I've had mine for maybe 3 years and I don't regret getting a regular one. I'd rather use mine for 10 years, dump it and get another one.

TIP 4: Buy something 2 ft longer than you think you want/need. Everyone that I know that has a trailer always wishes that they had a bit more space.

TIP 5: To utilize all the space, think of making shelves or baskets on the walls. My PO put up baskets and hooks for landscaping and it works great for me. I hang my extension cords, shovels, cutters, fuel, oils, straps.

TIP 6: Look into getting e-track. It will save you so much time and head ache.

TIP 7: Rear door. What are you going to be using it for? Ramps are good for loading bikes and stuff and if you need to roll things in. Barn doors open with less space, so if you're in the city and need to open the back door. As well, if you are loading pallets/skids into the trailer, barn doors are much easier for a forklift. Loading a pallet into a trailer with ramp involves a lot of scratching and pushing on the floor.

TIP 8: If you're going to paint the floors, get some sand and sprinkle it while wet. It will get some grip in there so that you won't slip.

TIP 9: Do you have a place to park it? some HOA don't let you keep them in the driveway. I used to park it at my parent's place, then my sister-in-law's place and now it is at my father-in-law's lot. His lot is 40mins from me so it isn't too far but it is still a pain when I need it right away.
 
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I would like to add. Trailers with two axles tow better than single axle ones. I know that it's more expense and may not be available on a small trailer. Probably a moot point on the size you are looking at.

When you load it, 60% of the weight up front, 40% to the back. Trailers that are tongue light will sway like crazy. If your rig can handle it, load the tongue even heaver than the 60/40.
 
I would like to add. Trailers with two axles tow better than single axle ones. I know that it's more expense and may not be available on a small trailer. Probably a moot point on the size you are looking at.

When you load it, 60% of the weight up front, 40% to the back. Trailers that are tongue light will sway like crazy. If your rig can handle it, load the tongue even heaver than the 60/40.

Two axels are great if you ever have a blow out on the freeway or anywhere for that matter. But from what I understand usually the ones with double axels are very difficult to move by hand. Mind you, even my 6x12, I can only really rock it back and forth. But when I had a 6x10 open utility trailer I could unhook it and park it by hand close to the side of the driveway.

Weight distribution is key. I try to keep as much weight over the wheels.
 
Two axels are great if you ever have a blow out on the freeway or anywhere for that matter.

But from what I understand usually the ones with double axels are very difficult to move by hand.

The double tires does make a blow out safer.

The same thing that can make moving by hand harder makes them more stable on the highway. The tires sort of bind against each other to track straighter. This binding doesn't decrease tire life, it may actuall increase life due to a straight ride.

The key to safe (tires and bearings) towing is to run tires at the max pressure and service/grease bearings. Bearings shouldn't have much play in them. I have towed 500# single axle trailers to 18,000# double axle trailers across the country for years. Sure the 18k trailer does blow out tires but they are maxed out. One trailer I have has the small (20.5 x 8.5 - 10) tires. People say that you can't drive fast with them. I have towed that trailer around the country (~20,000 miles) without any issues. I grease the bearings every 3000-5000 miles.
 
Personally, I don't think you need brakes. I have a single axle 6 by 12 enclosed with no brakes and it is fine. I regularly load it up with an atv, tow behind brush cutter, fuel, chainsaw, gear, and sometimes wood. It pulls perfectly fine and it is just a bit of a pain in rush hour but driving on the freeway is fine. I have loaded it up for dump runs, wood chips, furniture to move without any problems. My guess is that a 5x8 v-nose should be easy for you to tow.

TIP 1: Spend the extra money and get a spare rim/tire. The last thing you want to do is be in the middle of nowhere with no spare.

TIP 2: Buy as many locks as you can afford.

TIP 3: When it is empty, leave the trailer unlocked so that a thief doesn't break your locks or door to get in. You can lock the tongue and wheels, but don't lock the cargo area.

For security reasons while in hotel/motel parking lot.... back trailer up against a wall. Nobody can open the doors or get anything out easily that way.
 
For security reasons while in hotel/motel parking lot.... back trailer up against a wall. Nobody can open the doors or get anything out easily that way.

Or a tree. Or back up onto another car ( with permission). Anything that is difficult to move.
 
If you have ever had to slam on the brakes with a trailer and no brakes you will see why brakes are a good thing. I have had too, it's scary.

In MI you are supposed to have brakes on all axles. You can get a registration with a bill of sale if your trailer is under a certain (low)weight, and thereby avoid the inspection, but it still seems technically illegal and you can't title it that way. Make sure it's legal in your current place and wherever you move to.

Double axle is easier to tow and back-up. Our little single axle is a PITB. The two doubles are easy.

I don't think anyone mentioned sway yet. Learn how to handle the truck if you start swaying. You have a short wheelbase and a big sail behind you. Don't brake, it makes it worse.
 
I towed a 12 x 6 open trailer with all my stuff on it from Texas to Virginia behind a 4 cylinder Colorado. By the time I had everything loaded and tarped over it was just as tall as a regular cargo trailer. The trick to preventing sway is to keep your speed up. I drove about 75 mph the whole way and didn't experience any kind of sway unless I was dipping down into the 60's. The trick is to keep the truck in the right powerband, so that you are applying power to the rear end. This will help keep things settled. Also, make sure you load the trailer evenly. This is the single biggest problem people don't take into account. The heaviest load should be right over the axle. You want the tongue weight as low as possible. You should be able to pick up the front of the trailer with a little force, but not without a little struggle.
 
I towed a 12 x 6 open trailer with all my stuff on it from Texas to Virginia behind a 4 cylinder Colorado. By the time I had everything loaded and tarped over it was just as tall as a regular cargo trailer. The trick to preventing sway is to keep your speed up. I drove about 75 mph the whole way and didn't experience any kind of sway unless I was dipping down into the 60's. The trick is to keep the truck in the right powerband, so that you are applying power to the rear end. This will help keep things settled. Also, make sure you load the trailer evenly. This is the single biggest problem people don't take into account. The heaviest load should be right over the axle. You want the tongue weight as low as possible. You should be able to pick up the front of the trailer with a little force, but not without a little struggle.

This could very well be the worst advice I've ever seen written on any forum..your logic is flawed and dangerous....and puts everyone's safety around you, on the highway or road, in jeopardy!!

Here is an article on understanding tongue weight, and weight distribution in a trailer...and very simply written.

HowStuffWorks "How Tongue Weight Works"

Another source...

Trailer Loading and Towing Guide

You have a responsibility, if not to your personal safety, to those around you on the highway.
 
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Damn it, I was trying to get that bug off my screen you SOB lol
 

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