When y'all do a Tundra 231mm brake upgrade...

[chainring]

...do you guys just buy the rebuilt units from the Napa, etc. or shop for used ones at the wrecking yard? I found a set of used calipers at a wrecking yard that can be had for $75 for both. The cheapest remanufactured units I found were about $150 each. Factory parts bought new are over $400 each. What's the word?

In addition, are normal Brembo rotors worth the $100 or so each, or should I just buy the generic $50 units at the local parts store? Or find the "slotted Brembos" that I see some folks referring to in build threads? Or some other brand? I did a quick search, and regular Brembos seem plentiful, but slotted stuff isn't just jumping off the page at me. Any reliable sources for that sort of thing. Several of the threads I've seen have mentioned "backordered slotted Brembos" too, so maybe they are a bit of a problem to find.

Thanks for your help!

 

[rjaudi]

I am using junkyard units with great success. Put a new set of OEM pads in them and have worked great. Don't waste money on slotted rotors. The junkyard I went to had 2 rotors with 26k miles on them for 50 bucks. I painted them and had them turned. Worked great. Some people buy from NAPA then return their old 4runner calipers as cores. You may get lucky and that will work.

 

[brian2sun]

I got my 231mm calipers at Autozone for $79.99 each after the core and they are lifetime warranty too. The core was $75/ea. on my old 4runner calipers and I had no problem returning them.

I went with Napa premium rotors ($51.99/ea.) and Napa ceramic pads ($44.99 for the set of 4). I also got the 10% AAA discount on top of that at Napa. I saved ~$50 by buying the calipers at Autozone instead of Napa and both brands are lifetime warranty so that was a no brainer. I like the idea of buying new/reman calipers with a warranty over junkyard calipers.

 

[4-Ripcord]

Napa 231 calipers, Napa Premium rotors, Napa pads. Total was $378

 

[LittleCaesar]

I have heard success stories from both sides of the fence. I got my 231s off an 06 Tundra, bought a Toyota OEM rebuild kit, and have been trouble free from day one except for the mushy pedal initially.

 

[chainring]

Thanks, y'all.

Toyota OEM rebuild kit? Easy install? Didn't know there was such a thing. Interesting..

 

[LittleCaesar]

I had a torn boot around the piston. I think the rebuild kit runs $30~$40 per caliper, or it may be for two calipers. If no boot tears, or leaks, just mount them and move on.

 

[JWaldz]

I guess while we're talking about this...

I know cross drilled/slotted etc etc rotors are nice but are they worth it? They way I look at it is, I'm not doing any kind of racing but I do a lot of harder offroad stuff. With 285's, bumper, skids, and all the possibilities to add more armor... the weight adds up. Essentially it's like being stock pulling a seadoo or 4wheeler all the time. So would it be beneficial for me to get better rotors rather than just getting plain "blanks".

Brian, I know you and I are kind of on the same level with offroading. You seem to be pretty happy with your brake setup?

I've got a really good buddy (manager) at AutoZone and he sometimes hooks me up if I'm spending a good chunk of money. So I plan on doing most the shopping there if I can.

 

[brian2sun]

Brian, I know you and I are kind of on the same level with offroading. You seem to be pretty happy with your brake setup?

I've got a really good buddy (manager) at AutoZone and he sometimes hooks me up if I'm spending a good chunk of money. So I plan on doing most the shopping there if I can.

Yes, I'm very happy with my setup. And, I even have a leaky rear axle seal so I know my back brakes aren't working as good as they should be. These Tundras rock! I've never had slotted rotors, but one thing I noticed on the Tundras is the pad retainer spring is like a big paper clip on the Tundras whereas it's a big wide metal plate on the 4runners. That alone lets the "fins" (or whatever you call them) inside the Tundra rotor get way more airflow and keep cooler.

 

[chainring]

Don't believe any boots were torn, and didn't see any leaks...the boots were a bit baked by the sun, though. Guess I could put 'em on and see how they did. Rebuild 'em if they start leaking, etc.

 

[JWaldz]

Yes, I'm very happy with my setup. And, I even have a leaky rear axle seal so I know my back brakes aren't working as good as they should be. These Tundras rock! I've never had slotted rotors, but one thing I noticed on the Tundras is the pad retainer spring is like a big paper clip on the Tundras whereas it's a big wide metal plate on the 4runners. That alone lets the "fins" (or whatever you call them) inside the Tundra rotor get way more airflow and keep cooler.

good to know.. the only couple drawbacks I have with slotted/cross drilled rotors is I would think they wear down the pads a little quicker and I might not have the application to benefit from them. I'm willing to give them a try though. I'm sure anything is a lot better than what I have now.

 

[IanB]

Blanks offer more swept area for the pad to act on, so they will allow you to stop faster than slotted/drilled. New technology brake pads don't off-gas the same way they did 10+ years ago, so slotted/drilled rotors aren't needed the same way they were back then when they would help evacuate the gasses. Drilled rotors are also prone to cracking, and both slotted/drilled will wear pads down faster. Good quality blanks are the way to go these days.

 

[Nelsonmd]

I guess while we're talking about this...

I know cross drilled/slotted etc etc rotors are nice but are they worth it? They way I look at it is, I'm not doing any kind of racing but I do a lot of harder offroad stuff. With 285's, bumper, skids, and all the possibilities to add more armor... the weight adds up. Essentially it's like being stock pulling a seadoo or 4wheeler all the time. So would it be beneficial for me to get better rotors rather than just getting plain "blanks".

Brian, I know you and I are kind of on the same level with offroading. You seem to be pretty happy with your brake setup?

I've got a really good buddy (manager) at AutoZone and he sometimes hooks me up if I'm spending a good chunk of money. So I plan on doing most the shopping there if I can.

...do you guys just buy the rebuilt units from the Napa, etc. or shop for used ones at the wrecking yard? I found a set of used calipers at a wrecking yard that can be had for $75 for both. The cheapest remanufactured units I found were about $150 each. Factory parts bought new are over $400 each. What's the word?

In addition, are normal Brembo rotors worth the $100 or so each, or should I just buy the generic $50 units at the local parts store? Or find the "slotted Brembos" that I see some folks referring to in build threads? Or some other brand? I did a quick search, and regular Brembos seem plentiful, but slotted stuff isn't just jumping off the page at me. Any reliable sources for that sort of thing. Several of the threads I've seen have mentioned "backordered slotted Brembos" too, so maybe they are a bit of a problem to find.

Thanks for your help!

Blanks offer more swept area for the pad to act on, so they will allow you to stop faster than slotted/drilled. New technology brake pads don't off-gas the same way they did 10+ years ago, so slotted/drilled rotors aren't needed the same way they were back then when they would help evacuate the gasses. Drilled rotors are also prone to cracking, and both slotted/drilled will wear pads down faster. Good quality blanks are the way to go these days.

Yeah, I'm no expert on slotted vs blank rotors, but you do have to be careful with slotted rotors to make sure you get good ones that were cast with the slots in the mold vs machined slots. Machined slots are bad because they can leave residual stress and are more prone to cracking than cast slots. Assuming what IanB said is true (I have no reason to doubt it) then, the performance difference would be even less with modern pad materials.

Honestly, I have never heard of consumer vehicles needing slotted rotors. They have mostly been for race cars and high performance sports cars. Lots of heavy quick braking, and those were very expensive rotors to be sure. Doesn't seem worth the cost to me.

 

[binhsterbinh]

O'Reilly Auto 231mm A1 Cardone Remanufactured Calipers: $150/pair
Centric Fleet High Performance Pads (previously badged Stoptech Street Perfomance) -$58 shipped Rock Auto
Centric Slotted Rotors (non cryo) with E-Coat- $195 shipped Streetsideauto with coupon

Since it was $50 difference between Centric Premium vs Centric slotted, so I got the Slotted instead. No regrets - they look great regardless of performance drawbacks/gains.

Stopping power with Fleet Performance Pads are very linear and increased pedal travel due to larger calipers makes it easier to modulate braking force.

I grinded my split 3 spoke wheels using 4.5" Angle Grinder I bought for the purpose.

 

[brian2sun]

For whatever reason, my pedal doesn't/didn't feel mushy or feel like I had increased pedal travel after the Tundra swap. At least not any more than it was with normal brakes. I know most people say they feel that, but the only difference I feel is my brakes stop easier and there is virtually no brake fade.

 

[JWaldz]

Good info here.. I'll prob just go with some brembo blanks then. Those should be plenty good!

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

I got my brakes from the junkyard and haven't had an issue yet. Can't remember what I paid, maybe $100 for both. Bought Autozone premium rotors and pads. They stop great. Of course, depending on the wheel you will need spacers.

Maybe if it ever stops raining here every night in CO, I'll wash my truck and snap some pics.

 

[chainring]

Well, I bought the junkyard calipers off an 05 Tundra, and just finished cleaning 'em up and painting. So far, I'm into them for $83, including the can of Dark Silver Hammered finish spray paint. It's going to be awhile before I get to put 'em on, as I'm saving for the Hankook Dynapro ATM tires. They'll be going onto stock Tundra 17 inch wheels, so I don't think I'll need spacers with 265/65 or 255/70 tires. I AM going to need another 17 inch wheel that is compatable with the larger rotors, though, for my spare....buddy of mine made that point today. I had just been planning to get a junk tire for my original 15 spare that duplicated the size of the Hankooks. Gotta love inexperienced modders!

 

[brian2sun]

The 15' spare rim probably won't work with the Tundras.

 

[Dous]

The 15' spare rim probably won't work with the Tundras.

Thanks for pointing that out Brian, I was really thinking about getting the 231s, but if I ever had a flat I would be screwed because my spare is still a 15"!