Would you buy either of these rigs?

Cree

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Between the two, based only on pictures I'd go for the '99

Less serious problems and that bush bar, combined with the chrome exhaust tip and the "stuck in 4X4" doesn't leave me with a good feeling.
 
To me either one, cosmetic stuff can come off easy. Looking at the problems of the two about even on a dollar basis. I do my own wrenching so I'd have only parts cost. These two have very good jew points, throw out numbers(inflated) how much repairs will cost. Drive em around show real interest. "Grandpa always said if you don't offend on first offer you paying too much" low ball em go from there.
 
To me either one, cosmetic stuff can come off easy. Looking at the problems of the two about even on a dollar basis. I do my own wrenching so I'd have only parts cost. These two have very good jew points, throw out numbers(inflated) how much repairs will cost. Drive em around show real interest. "Grandpa always said if you don't offend on first offer you paying too much" low ball em go from there.

Kind of how I feel. I'm leaning towards the 2000, as who knows how long the seals have been shot on that rear end. I did test drive it and there's no pinion or bearing noise, but that doesn't mean there couldn't be shortly.

The 00, however, is likely a bad sensor on the front differential. That's quick and easy.
 
The 2000 all day. Someone liked it quite a bit but the stated problems have just pushed him or her to get a newer auto. The one weird thing is that there is quite a bit of snow on the ground in some of those pics. I'd ask for updated ones.

Someone abused the 99 by letting it sit in the sun. Plus I am not a fan of the Mr. T. trim package.

I guess no one ever changes their brake fluid in Kansas.....
 
The 2000 all day. Someone liked it quite a bit but the stated problems have just pushed him or her to get a newer auto. The one weird thing is that there is quite a bit of snow on the ground in some of those pics. I'd ask for updated ones.

Someone abused the 99 by letting it sit in the sun. Plus I am not a fan of the Mr. T. trim package.

I guess no one ever changes their brake fluid in Kansas.....

Come ooonn man! you don't like Mr T,

Rear axle T case don't bother me rest is cosmetics. No rust thats cool.
which can you get cheaper.
 
Kind of how I feel. I'm leaning towards the 2000, as who knows how long the seals have been shot on that rear end. I did test drive it and there's no pinion or bearing noise, but that doesn't mean there couldn't be shortly.

The 00, however, is likely a bad sensor on the front differential. That's quick and easy.

Yes sir on front diff,
axle can be best case breather clogged ask me how I know:frusty:
 
I'd lean to the 2000- less wrong, less $$$ to get it fully functional.
The engine compartments on both seem to feature hoses that have been shined up with armorall...a bad sign where I live in California, but maybe normal in KS...To me, it means they're hiding something, like how poorly they maintained the vehicle until right before they wanted to sell it. Like I say, could just be a cultural thing. Hopefully it's just the lighting angle in the photos.
And like someone else said, the 'stuck in 4WD' thing could be a very simple electrical/single part fix.
Axle seals aren't simple or cheap.
In general, if you want it nice and unless otherwise proven, any 4Runner this old is going to need new tires, new springs, new shocks, and a new radiator. New drive belts, water hoses, plugs and wires, and battery are a good idea also.
As always, service records are gold.
 
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Cree, let's say you buy the 2000, a month later the axle seals go out. You would be replacing the same parts as you would on the 99. They are at the same place in life, Just saying. Again which can you get cheaper if their equal on all other counts.
 
I wouldn't think about either of them until I layed down under the rear end and looked at rust. I looked at a couple from KC and they were pretty bad. When 97% of people say there is no rust they mean you can't see any on the body panels and don't know where to look for it. The other 3%are lying and hope your not smart enough to get under it and look.

The rear frame area is where I always start. It's not worth fixing anything on a frame on its way out no matter how pretty the body is.
 
2000 for me. Although the stuck in 4x4 could also be a sensor/switch in the multi-mode transfer case

True. I kind of feel like if it's just stuck in 4 high open, it doesn't really matter if I fix it or not right away. I can just run it and all wheel drive.
 
click on the links

The OP edited his original post and added links.


I like both of them. I'm personally leaning towards the 1999. My next move would be to take them out for a test drive if you haven't already and really do a thorough inspection.
 
I bought neither. The 2000 was way rustier than it was portrayed. I did end up buying another one they had on the lot. 2000 Limited with 182 on the clock. It was a Chicago truck, but this guy popped for the undercoating. Bonus, everything works and no leaks outside of valve covers. Not fond of the Desert Dune/Silver combo, but that can be fixed easily enough.
 

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