Yaw Rate and Acceleration Sensor Zero Point Calibration

[azn-sensation]

Sorry to bump an old thread. Gonna try this on my SR5, after I lifted it and took it up snowboarding I had the VSC kick in and scare my passengers. The truck is due for another check up, if they can do it awesome. If they charge I'll give it a go, I hope it helps!

 

[MONST4R]

Sorry to revive an old thread but I think I'm having the same issue. Azn did you take the truck into the dealer? Were you able to resolve the VSC issue?

 

[bRunner]

Bumping an old thread. I am having the same issue. Happens almost everyday to and from work on the same off/on ramp. The VSC is way to sensitive and downright scary/dangerous when you're not ready for it.

I have the instruction printed and I'll be looking tonight, but where is the panel (DLC3) located? I'm assuming it's under the steering wheel somewhere?

Thanks

-bh

 

[iDRiVaT4R]

bRunner, its the OBD2 connector under the dash.

 

[teepee73]

I performed the calibration through step 3. I don't think I have crawl control or downhill assist control so I didn't perform steps 4 and 5. Anyway my slip indicator light is still on all the time. Luckily I've never had any near death experiences like everyone else. My VSC has never engaged ... even going quickly on ramps. Do I just need to buy a fancy code reader that can erase codes? Thanks in advance for any info.

 

[jbstrd]

I just lifted my rig yesterday with 100 miles on it. I did not have much time behind the wheel with the suspension stock, so I don't know if the VSC was overactive or not. Tonight, while taking a corner at a little speed (not reckless in any way), the VSC kicked in. As others have mentioned it was not cool. So, I may be performing this calibration.

Being that my rig is a Trail Edition, therefore using Crawl Control instead of DAC, do I just skip step #4?

I have read different things about the "drive straight and level for 10 seconds at 25MPH." Some have said you can just drive around, others say you must be level, straight, and drive at the proper speed. Can anybody confirm one way or another?

Also, how do I know if I get a DTC C120A code?

One more question. What are people using in place of the SST? I was just thinking I could use two wires, insert them into the proper terminals (4 and 12), and touch them together when necessary in the steps.

Sorry for all the questions, hopefully this can clear things up for others as well.

Thanks, Jason

 

[GrantK]

I just lifted my rig yesterday with 100 miles on it. I did not have much time behind the wheel with the suspension stock, so I don't know if the VSC was overactive or not. Tonight, while taking a corner at a little speed (not reckless in any way), the VSC kicked in. As others have mentioned it was not cool. So, I may be performing this calibration.

Being that my rig is a Trail Edition, therefore using Crawl Control instead of DAC, do I just skip step #4?

I have read different things about the "drive straight and level for 10 seconds at 25MPH." Some have said you can just drive around, others say you must be level, straight, and drive at the proper speed. Can anybody confirm one way or another?

Also, how do I know if I get a DTC C120A code?

One more question. What are people using in place of the SST? I was just thinking I could use two wires, insert them into the proper terminals (4 and 12), and touch them together when necessary in the steps.

Sorry for all the questions, hopefully this can clear things up for others as well.

Thanks, Jason

I just went through this on my TE (freekin slip light and here's what I ended up learning.

First I tried skipping the DAC and Crawl control cal and the slip light wouldn't go out (no error codes). Then I did the process again, skipping the DAC (#4) but doing the Crawl Control and things been fine since. I ending up building a cable with a momentary contact, normally open push-button on the end.

So for TEs, the DAC cal (#4) gets skipped but the rest needs to be done. Having a cable with a push button or regular switch makes life much easier and will encourage you do do the entire cal process again after the springs take their set or if you tweak you lift.

 

[iDRiVaT4R]

I just lifted my rig yesterday with 100 miles on it. I did not have much time behind the wheel with the suspension stock, so I don't know if the VSC was overactive or not. Tonight, while taking a corner at a little speed (not reckless in any way), the VSC kicked in. As others have mentioned it was not cool. So, I may be performing this calibration.

Being that my rig is a Trail Edition, therefore using Crawl Control instead of DAC, do I just skip step #4?

I have read different things about the "drive straight and level for 10 seconds at 25MPH." Some have said you can just drive around, others say you must be level, straight, and drive at the proper speed. Can anybody confirm one way or another?

Also, how do I know if I get a DTC C120A code?

One more question. What are people using in place of the SST? I was just thinking I could use two wires, insert them into the proper terminals (4 and 12), and touch them together when necessary in the steps.

Sorry for all the questions, hopefully this can clear things up for others as well.

Thanks, Jason

Yes, those with a TE skip the skips pertaining to the DAC whereas those with other models skip the steps pertaining to the crawl control.

I was never able to drive on a level surface for 10 seconds going 25 mph so you should be fine just driving it around. Just make sure the truck is level when performing this calibration.

I just used a 5" wire. Stripped both ends, left one side stuck in one terminal and inserted the other side into the other terminal when required. I know The whole process sounds like a major task but once you get into it, it's fairly easy and quick.

If anyone needs immediate assistance regarding this calibration please send me a PM if your question doesn't get answered here in a timely matter.

Take care,
Nathan

 

[jbstrd]

Thanks for the replies. It does not seem too hard and sounds like it is worth while.

 

[Snooperstyle]

Mine went crazy this weekend in the mountains. Lots of driving on the Blueridge Parkway and forest service roads, and as everyone else describes, I have the "disease". One thing I tried, as others have, is to turn off the TRAC and VSC by holding down the button for over 3 seconds while stopped. It seemed to improve the situation slightly, but I was still able to get the vehicle to freak out on some turns that were not relatively too fast. Interestingly, the dash did not make the beeping noise when the VSC was off, but the brakes definitely purged and put me into the other lane a time or two. Anyways, I am going to try this solution. I just wanted to confirm that it is normal for the problem to exist EVEN IF I have the VSC off using the 3-second switching approach. This and brake assist are my two least favorite things about the vehicle. Hope I can figure it out. I wonder if recalibrating also makes brake assist less sensitive???? Anybody know? I will report back. Thanks.

 

[jbstrd]

After trying it on my own, it did not seem to help much. I took it to the dealer and they performed the calibration no questions asked and free under warranty. It still does it, but it is definitely better.

 

[Snooperstyle]

^^Good to know. Thanks.

 

[NorthWest 4R]

Did this reset after my lift instal before I ever drove it, still have not set anything off one time or had a problem. Guess it worked

 

[Hellamatic]

Another option that I used for my Tundra: I went on trusty ol' ebay and ordered an OBD-II/USB cable and a copy of the TechStream software with the Toyota patch included.

Techstream is a generic OBD-II communication software, and you purchase patches for each specific brand of vehicle - ie, I installed the Toyota patch, so I can communicate with Toyotas. Techstream can also be used with Nissans, however, it will not work until you buy a Nissan patch.

There's a tool in Techstream that allows you to perform calibration of the VSC system. It is also handy for checking MIL status, and for customizing some different vehicle features. I recommend buying it for anyone that spends any amount of time working on their vehicle - I think the whole kit cost me around $50 if I remember correctly

 

[Dr-V]

Work perfect in my 2004 sr5

Thanx for the post, i did the calibration with 2 stripped speaker cables, easy to do, thanx, took me over 20 minutes to do.

 

[Randyman...]

Hello all,

Before I attempt this and screw it all up, I wanted to get clarification on a few points, please

I have an SR5, so no Crawl Control calibration needed on mine.

Question #1: Do I complete the "(b) Perform zero point calibration of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor" task in full including driving straight for 10 seconds and then proceed to "4. PERFORM DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL CALIBRATION (w/ Downhill Assist Control)? It would seem that entering "Test Mode" a second time to complete the Downhill Assist Calibration might clear the previous Zero-Point calibration?

Question #2: In the "4. PERFORM DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL CALIBRATION (w/ Downhill Assist Control) instructions, it never says when to turn the key back on (only says to turn the ignition off in two different steps). I'm assuming I need to turn on the ignition at some point to get the "Downhill Assist" buttons to function for the calibration? I assume the ignition is turned back on after re-connecting terminals 12 + 4?

Lastly - What's the importance of the comment:"* DTCs 36 (Zero Point Calibration of Yaw Rate Sensor Undone) and 39 (Zero Point Calibration of Acceleration Sensor Undone) are stored if the shift lever is not in P."? It's very confusing the way it's stated...


Any clarifications are appreciated! My VSC is not noticeably acting up, but I just raised the front a little and corrected for some driver's lean. I'd think a re-calibration is a good idea. Graci!

:driving:

 

[eddiebx]

Don't quote me on this as I kind of just improvised a bit after following the directions to the tee didn't work.

First point, yes I too noticed that the FSM appeared to have forgotten to tell you to turn the ignition back to the on position for some of the steps, I sat there trying to perform crawl control calibration until the cows came home before I realized :rofl:

As far as re-entering the test mode to do the crawl/dac calibration, I think it's probably fine to re-enter it if you want w/o messing up the previous calibration data. I think somewhere in the FSM it says that new calibration data can only be saved in test mode once after clearing the calibration data; so just entering test mode w/o the clearing step shouldn't affect it.

Personally, I just did the crawl control calibration immediately after setting the new calibration data; and then went for a drive. It seems to work fine either way though, I tried both ways and I didn't notice any obvious differences; both times the slip light went off and stayed off w/o a hitch.

I searched this topic a while back and I think the crawl/dac "calibration" is really just to tell the brake master cylinder that your vehicle has these functions. I think that's why for example the crawl calibration really just calls for you to push all the buttons and spin the knob so the master cylinder knows its there, so to speak.

As far as your last question, it's basically just telling you to keep the damn shift lever in park when performing the zero point calibration or else you're going to get a check light

 

[Randyman...]

eddiebx - Thank you so much for your prompt & detailed reply! This gives me the confidence to attempt this later today. You rock :drummer:

 

[Randyman...]

Update Success!

I cleared the data and went through both steps back-to-back, and then turned off the key, disconnected the wire, started the truck and drove off. Seemed to "take" on the first try (no lights). Took all of 3-4 minutes and can likely be done in under a minute including the drive :driving:

Thanks to iDRiVaT4R for posting this thread, and to eddiebx for the astute clarifications - Much obliged

Here is how I would edit the instructions.

SR5 and LE (w/o Crawl):

A. Clear the zero point calibration data.

(1) Turn the ignition switch off.

(2) Check that the steering wheel is centered.

(3) Check that the shift lever is in P.

(4) Turn the ignition switch to ON.

(5) The ABS warning light and slip indicator light come on for 3 seconds to indicate that the initial check is completed.

(6) Using SST, connect and disconnect terminals 12 (TS) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3 4 times or more within 8 seconds.

Front view of DLC3

(7) Check that the slip indicator light comes on.


B. Perform zero point calibration of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor.

(1) Turn the ignition switch off.

(2) Check that the steering wheel is centered.

(3) Check that the shift lever is in P.

(4) Using SST, connect terminals 12 (TS) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3.

(5) Turn the ignition switch to ON.

(6) Keep the vehicle stationary on a level surface for 5 seconds or more.

(7) Check that the slip indicator light comes on for several seconds and then blink in the test mode pattern (0.125 seconds on and 0.125 seconds off).

C. PERFORM DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL CALIBRATION (w/ Downhill Assist Control)

(1) Turn the downhill assist control switch off.

(2) Push the downhill assist control switch and check that the downhill assist control indicator light is blinking.

(3) Turn the downhill assist control switch off.

(4) Turn the ignition switch off and disconnect SST from the DLC3.

(5) Drive the vehicle straight ahead at 40 km/h (25 mph) or more for at least 10 seconds. (I was unable to do this task, just driving it around should be OK)
HINT:

If DTC C120A is not output, calibration was performed successfully.

Nathan

At least that's what I did

 

[JamesWhite]

I did my lift few months ago, I did n't know the calibration and didn't feel anything unusual. Do I still need have it done? Thanks!