I am glad to hear that there's at least a slight possibility that just the tires might do the trick. The shaking is right between 60-70 mph. The Shaking occasionally ceases for a while too. It also seems to want to wander a bit, but equally in either direction. It will track fine most of the time, but pulls occasionally to one direction or the other, not like an alignment where it's always one direction. Never had vehicle do that.
I should be able to report next week if the tires solve the problem.....I have to say I am a bit skeptical, though I have been known to be wrong on occasion (ok, lots of occasions).
I am glad to hear that there's at least a slight possibility that just the tires might do the trick. The shaking is right between 60-70 mph. The Shaking occasionally ceases for a while too. It also seems to want to wander a bit, but equally in either direction. It will track fine most of the time, but pulls occasionally to one direction or the other, not like an alignment where it's always one direction. Never had vehicle do that.
I should be able to report next week if the tires solve the problem.....I have to say I am a bit skeptical, though I have been known to be wrong on occasion (ok, lots of occasions).
I'd ask for my $ back because they didn't diagnose the problem correctly and what they did was probably pointless. I highly doubt they actually removed the rubber boot that covers up the inner tie rod to inspect it before they got your approval. Sounds like guess work to me.
I know it sounds like WTF??, but I still maintain that the u-joint(s) may be your problem. Get under there with the truck in "N" and the tires blocked and shake the drivelines and see if there's any up/down or side-to-side play in the u-joint(s). Here's the best part - it won't cost you $585 to check, just about 2 minutes of your time!
It's very hard to tell the difference between out-of-balance tires, bad wheel bearings, bad u-joints, and a whole list of possibilities just by how it feels on the highway. You seem to have ruled out any obvious steering issues, alignment, bearings, or unbalanced tires. I would also go out and really test your suspension, maybe it is a bad strut like drinkmolson said. Push down on each corner of the truck and see if they all react the same way.
Same symptoms as everyone else... a mild and just somewhat annoying shake that you just can't narrow down. Mine creeps in about 63-65 and will leave as you increase speed past 75 or 76ish. It comes and goes in that 70-72 range too. I bought my used 2002 Limited 4WD in Feb 11 with around 79K miles on it, it now has 89K miles. It had this mild "tire out of balance" shake from the day I bought it. I assumed it was the crappy tires it had and I planned to replace them, so not big deal right? So far I have:
1.) New Michelin LTX2 tires (Costco) at 81K
2.) Returned to Costco for a rebalance at 81.5K
3.) New OEM 880 /906 springs
4.) New Bilstein 5100 (Tundra spec)front / Yellow 4Runner HD's rear
4a.) Toyota dealer allignment (they did not note any worn parts)
5.) Wheeler's steering rack bushings (LUV!)
6.) Tundra (OEM)231 rotors / calipers
7.) replaced rear drums (61K) with stock used known to have original weights
8.) rotated my spare into each corner and test drove.
9.) jacked up each corner and spun wheel, PERFECTLY round.
10.) removed and thoroughly lubed rear propeller shaft
11.) lubed front propeller shaft
I noticed that the rear tail piece of my drive shaft has a pretty hefty weight on it, but considering the frequency of the shake is clearly the same as a rotating tire, I doubt the shaft is an issue. As you can tell, I have done quite a bit to my 4Runner since I bought it and none of the listed items eliminated the "out of balance" feel. It is mild, but still noticable and because it's right at 70-72 where you want to drive, it's really a pain. It seems to me that it's somewhere in the rear and I even tried indexing the rear wheels around the drum, thinking the drum and wheel might have some slight out-of-balance that magically cancel each other at some point, but I never hit zero, but there is a point where I think it gets a little worse. Even so, you would think that drums that definitely have their original weights in place, and tires that have been balanced twice, would be close enough to zero and provide a smooth ride.
I can't imagine the axle shafts being the culprit, but they are about the only thing I haven't replaced that spins at that frequency. Any thoughts?
Bad front wheel bearings will growl or whine louder when you turn the direction away from the bad bearing. So if the right bearing is bad, when you turn left, you'll hear it. Also, with the wheel up in the air you can try to jiggle the wheel by pushing in at the top and the bottom alternating... and if it moves, it's the bearing that has the play. You shouldn't be able to move the wheel that way. However the shake test can be a little difficult on big heavy wheels and tires. It's much easier on economy cars. lol
Well here is some insight.. I swapped on my FJ Cruiser Stock wheels and Tires that have about 8 k miles on them They roll perfect and smooth on my FJ, they rolled fine and smooth on the 4runner....
Then I took the truck off road for the first time, banged it around a bit, drove it home at many speeds around 70 mph, no issues. Took it to the tunnel car wash today... BAM. From speeds 45mph and up there is a vibration that really gets bad at 72 mph..
Im going to see tonight if some mud or something fell off the under carriage and has caused this to just start happening.. :roadkill:
This is an interesting case because the car wash was the instant change and I watched the car the whole time through the tunnel.
Brian, how do you diagnose a bad set of wheel bearings?
Bad front wheel bearings will growl or whine louder when you turn the direction away from the bad bearing. So if the right bearing is bad, when you turn left, you'll hear it. Also, with the wheel up in the air you can try to jiggle the wheel by pushing in at the top and the bottom alternating... and if it moves, it's the bearing that has the play. You shouldn't be able to move the wheel that way. However the shake test can be a little difficult on big heavy wheels and tires. It's much easier on economy cars. lol
How many of you with this problem are running stock Toyota wheels???
I had all these same problems the minute I drove my brand new 2002 Runner off the lot.
I also read how most of the new 4 Runner owners in the early 2000's on Yota tech experienced this same this same
thing with numerous sets ot tires and trips to the dealer trying to fix the shaking/balancing issues.
Get rid of the crap stock wheels!!!!! That solved all my shaking/balancing problems.