Redarc brake controller install

I'll be the first to admit my electrical knowledge is limited, but wouldn't it be easier to run a split (1 wire to 2 wire) from the hot 12v from the 7pin connector to 2 brake lights, controlled by a relay triggered from the brake wire?

I'm sure you're theory would work, but for some reason I'm having a hard time visualizing how you plan to get the signal to the trailer, past the vehicle without it realizing that the trailer lights are on, thus screwing with the computer. Are you planning to run wires from the harness, bypass the under dash plug and go back into the harness under the vehicle before the 7pin connector?
 
I'll be the first to admit my electrical knowledge is limited, but wouldn't it be easier to run a split (1 wire to 2 wire) from the hot 12v from the 7pin connector to 2 brake lights, controlled by a relay triggered from the brake wire?

I'm sure you're theory would work, but for some reason I'm having a hard time visualizing how you plan to get the signal to the trailer, past the vehicle without it realizing that the trailer lights are on, thus screwing with the computer. Are you planning to run wires from the harness, bypass the under dash plug and go back into the harness under the vehicle before the 7pin connector?


Yes, correct. My idea would require an extra wire to run all the way back from brake controller to trigger the new relay. And it also isn’t great since the relay would be activated any time the brake lights are commanded on. So it would always be clicking when brakes are pressed. Which is probably annoying so hiding the relay in the back would be best under my idea. You could source the 12v from the 7-way area, absolutely. And yes you could have the relay output feed both brake light/turn signal wires. But I don’t think you can use the wire that actually feeds the trailer’s physical electric brakes because that particular wire won’t be working at 12 volts. It’s proportional to my knowledge, so even when manually applying brakes the wire may only have 6 or 8 volts to operate the brakes. This may not be enough to activate the relay. Now, it may very well be enough, I’m just not sure. And each trailer/tow vehicle is set up differently. Your trailer may require a maximum setting, resulting in closer to 12 volts to feed your relay idea and it all works fine. Someone else may only have theirs set to 50% maximum and therefore is only sending max of 6-7 volts to brake down that brake trigger wire.

The thing that I don’t know for certain is how the vehicle combines/converts the turn signal brake lights to feed the trailer. Remember: the vehicle has independent turn signal and brake lights. They come from 2 different sources and are combined somehow (maybe by a “magic box” like the old trucks were, maybe by a series of diodes or computers, I honestly don’t know). The trailer lights are the same wire to do both turn and brake. There isn’t a “trailer brake light wire”, only 2 turn signals. So it’s possible to have the relay affect other operations depending on where it goes in the chain. Like maybe pushing the brake while at a stop light would make trailer turn signals no longer flash since you over-rode the circuit by wiring directly to the turn signals. That’s why I would figure it would be best to access the brake light feed from where it naturally comes from the truck before it’s converted. So it basically mimicks OEM operation with a tandem, relay and diode controlled circuit.

There is more than one way to skin a cat. And I may very well have it wrong or less simple that’s totally possible. Whatever you do, just add fuses where applicable. The ideal scenario is to get a wiring diagram to confirm how the truck’s brake/turn signals are converted to a single output.
 
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etrailer.com - what a great site

Went to the e-trailer.com site and they have everything you need plus a video install on a 5th gen.
Couldn't ask for anything more.
Install was pretty easy after watching step by step instructions.

I went with the
- Redarc Tow Pro Elite
- Tekonsha Custom Wiring Adapter - Toyota #3041-P
- Toyota switch insert TPSI-002
 
Trailer finally became available and we picked it up today! 4Runner handled it with ease.

3419fa8e26c99511ad8d470171293ef2.jpg


2016 Trail Premium, with KDSS if that matters.
2021 Coleman Lantern LT 17B
Blue ox weight distribution hitch with 750 lbs bars
Redarc brake controller worked great. Have it at about 6 for the short drive home and it felt just fine. trailer is 3000 lbs and only has one axle with 10” brakes so that’s not too bad by my opinion.

I’m taking a decent trip soon on the freeway and such so we shall see how it all handles. I’m thinking some air bags are in the future to help out the rear suspension. Only dropped total of 1” but that’s with an empty trailer and truck... I made sure gas tank was full though.
 
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Took a leap and installed the Redarc Tow Pro Elite. Redarc now has a 4Runner specific harness, so no need for the Tekonsha or factory harness. I placed the brain in the kick panel and the control knob in the lower left blank below the steering wheel. The neg ground dongle was placed behind an existing ground 10mm bolt just above the left foot kick panel.

Install took about 45min total. Some notes:

1. I used the Redarc TPSI-002 blank panel for mounting the control knob. It was a perfect snap in fit into the lower left panel blank.
2. There is no need to pull out/remove the panel to access the blank. You can reach up behind the panel from below and snap out the blank. Once out, route your cable up and thru the opening. Assemble the switch, connect the cable and fit back into place in the panel. The brains of the control knob are a tight fit thru the opening, but they will go thru.
3. The white washer used on the control panel underneath the knob has some plastic casting on the back side where the LED sits. It should fit into the hole on the Redarc blank where the led passes thru, but it doesn’t. I drilled out the tiny led hole in the Redarc blank but it still didn’t fit. A sharp razor knife removed the casting so it now sits flush. You just have to hold that washer in place as you tighten down the set screw before putting on the knob.
4. My unit never went into Active Calibration mode as evidenced by flashing blue/yellow LED. It went immediately into sleep mode, or “breathing” mode as Redarc calls it. With my trailer hooked up, it worked fine. I called eTrailer and they indicated that all was fine and that the position it found itself in was sufficient for calibration. I’m going to email Redarc to be sure.

Very pleased with the smooth install, easy wiring harness and setup.

5c28443846daa970fbfd85545b5b696b.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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To update, I spoke with the folks at Redarc and they confirmed that the unit is calibrated even though it didn’t go into the blue/yellow led pattern. They also confirmed that the white washer should not be used with the 002 switch blank.

With the washer removed, I decided to move the control head up a bit higher to the next level of switches so it would be easier to see. You can still reach up by hand behind to pop out the blank and pop in the control head without taking any panels apart.

I leave tomorrow for a 10-hour trip to an mtb race in Missouri. Will report my experience afterwards.
96538644ad1734e564117183efce74b0.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi all - just received shipment of the REDARC parts and the Tekonsha wiring harness.

I've watched some videos and read through this post and other posts. I'm confused as to why I would need to splice into any of the factory wires.

It seems to me with Tekonsha wiring harnes + Redarc, I just have to connect the 2 and plug and play.

Here's a picture

p4089575455-3.jpg


Aside from connecting these two parts and plugging the white connector to the truck.. what all else do I need to do?

Any local OC help would be great : )
 
Hi all - just received shipment of the REDARC parts and the Tekonsha wiring harness.

I've watched some videos and read through this post and other posts. I'm confused as to why I would need to splice into any of the factory wires.

It seems to me with Tekonsha wiring harnes + Redarc, I just have to connect the 2 and plug and play.

Here's a picture

p4089575455-3.jpg


Aside from connecting these two parts and plugging the white connector to the truck.. what all else do I need to do?

Any local OC help would be great : )

People are splicing onto the included harness from Toyota. If you got their harness, no splicing is needed.
 
I realized where my issues is... Etrailer recommended the wrong harness.

I should have purchased this Attention Required! | Cloudflare Teknosha 3040P

Instead they recommended Attention Required! | Cloudflare which is not "plug and play" - Teknosha 3040-s
I guess I am confused now--according to a previous post, Etrailer now has a 4runner specific kit that does not require the Tekonsha adaptor? Sorry, I am completely wiring illiterate so wanting to take the easiest route and want to be sure I order correctly. Thanks for help!
 
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I guess I am confused now--according to a previous post, Etrailer now has a 4runner specific kit that does not require the Tekonsha adaptor? Sorry, I am completely wiring illiterate so wanting to take the easiest route and want to be sure I order correctly. Thanks for help!

I'll never buy anything from etrailer again. They are supposed to know the ins and outs and guided me in the wrong direction.

Like you, I'm not inclined to this stuff.

I'm sure you can find a single device. I wanted to go with the redarc based on reviews.

For a an easy installation you need the following

  1. Brake controller of your choice
  2. Teknosha iring harness - 3040 P
  3. Knock out oem-like dial holder Amazon.com: REDARC TPSI-002 Tow-Pro Switch Insert: Automotive
 
I'll never buy anything from etrailer again. They are supposed to know the ins and outs and guided me in the wrong direction.

Like you, I'm not inclined to this stuff.

I'm sure you can find a single device. I wanted to go with the redarc based on reviews.

For a an easy installation you need the following

  1. Brake controller of your choice
  2. Teknosha iring harness - 3040 P
  3. Knock out oem-like dial holder Amazon.com: REDARC TPSI-002 Tow-Pro Switch Insert: Automotive

Response I got from Etrailer -

"he 3040-P wont plug directly into the Redarc Controller. 3040-P will only plug into Tekonsha brake controllers. The white end on both the 3040-P and 3040-S both plug into your 2010 Toyota 4runner. The black end of the 3040-P would have to be cut off and then crimped into the pigtails coming out of the plug for the Redarc controller. This would make it the same as the 3040-S. The nice thing about the Tekonsha 3040-S is the colors are the same as the Redarc plugs pigtail. So you would just have to match red with red, blue with blue, and so on. Unfortunate Redarc doesnt make a direct plug and play for your vehicle yet for why we recommend the 3040-S for your vehicle.
"

I'm more confused and I give up... I will be taking it to a trailer shop to do the install.
 
Sorry to hear you are having such a frustrating experience.
Is this what you ordered for your main unit--it comes with a "plug and play adapter"? Attention Required! | Cloudflare
Took a leap and installed the Redarc Tow Pro Elite. Redarc now has a 4Runner specific harness, so no need for the Tekonsha or factory harness. I placed the brain in the kick panel and the control knob in the lower left blank below the steering wheel. The neg ground dongle was placed behind an existing ground 10mm bolt just above the left foot kick panel.

Install took about 45min total. Some notes:

1. I used the Redarc TPSI-002 blank panel for mounting the control knob. It was a perfect snap in fit into the lower left panel blank.
2. There is no need to pull out/remove the panel to access the blank. You can reach up behind the panel from below and snap out the blank. Once out, route your cable up and thru the opening. Assemble the switch, connect the cable and fit back into place in the panel. The brains of the control knob are a tight fit thru the opening, but they will go thru.
3. The white washer used on the control panel underneath the knob has some plastic casting on the back side where the LED sits. It should fit into the hole on the Redarc blank where the led passes thru, but it doesn’t. I drilled out the tiny led hole in the Redarc blank but it still didn’t fit. A sharp razor knife removed the casting so it now sits flush. You just have to hold that washer in place as you tighten down the set screw before putting on the knob.
4. My unit never went into Active Calibration mode as evidenced by flashing blue/yellow LED. It went immediately into sleep mode, or “breathing” mode as Redarc calls it. With my trailer hooked up, it worked fine. I called eTrailer and they indicated that all was fine and that the position it found itself in was sufficient for calibration. I’m going to email Redarc to be sure.

Very pleased with the smooth install, easy wiring harness and setup.

5c28443846daa970fbfd85545b5b696b.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I realized where my issues is... Etrailer recommended the wrong harness.

I should have purchased this Attention Required! | Cloudflare Teknosha 3040P

Instead they recommended Attention Required! | Cloudflare which is not "plug and play" - Teknosha 3040-s

Response I got from Etrailer -

"he 3040-P wont plug directly into the Redarc Controller. 3040-P will only plug into Tekonsha brake controllers. The white end on both the 3040-P and 3040-S both plug into your 2010 Toyota 4runner. The black end of the 3040-P would have to be cut off and then crimped into the pigtails coming out of the plug for the Redarc controller. This would make it the same as the 3040-S. The nice thing about the Tekonsha 3040-S is the colors are the same as the Redarc plugs pigtail. So you would just have to match red with red, blue with blue, and so on. Unfortunate Redarc doesnt make a direct plug and play for your vehicle yet for why we recommend the 3040-S for your vehicle.
"

I'm more confused and I give up... I will be taking it to a trailer shop to do the install.
 
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I just received and installed an Elite into my 2010 Trail. Installation would be a lot easier for an invertebrate, wish I'd thought to bring a trained octopus. But it's in there and connected and we'll see if it works.
FWIW I ordered from eTrailer and received the Tekonsha 3040-S harness, not the P with the extra grounding wire. I installed it according to the directions and will find out if it works, if I ever get a travel trailer...
Unfortunately it also came with the wrong panel insert, so I either have to DIY one or wait another week to get one in the mail.
 
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I just installed my Redarc brake controller. Thanks to this thread it was very easy!! Just wanted to provide some info.

I bought the Tow Pro Elite V3 controller, the TPSI-002 switch insert which fits perfectly in the 4Runner, and the TPH-021 Redarc wiring harness. This is the single harness that plugs into the factory 4Runner brake controller plug and then directly into the brake controller. No additional adapters needed.

I installed the controller where everyone else seems to; behind the panel on the drivers side center console using Velcro and zip ties. The adapter is long enough to run from that location, but the ground wire may not reach to the location near the door some have used. I put the ground on the metal mount for the OBDII harness. There is a hole there to use a screw, washers and a nut.

I installed the switch/knob at the “party mode” spot. This works best for me. I haven’t tested the switch yet because I don’t have a trailer with brakes. (I’ll be using RVShare to rent trailers for a bit.) I’ll try and remember to come and update this after I’ve tested it.

To me, this was the only real option. I didn’t want anything large and obtrusive and I didn’t want to fool with a Bluetooth option. Bluetooth may be easier on the front end with an install but using it is much more of a pain...
 

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Thanks and a 4th Gen recommendation

This is my first post, in any forum, so forgive my poor etiquette in advance!!
I just finished installing the Redarc Tow-Pro Elite v3 in my 2006 4Runner.
Thanks to all previous posts, very helpful!

Anyway, I dremeled out an unused switch, as others have:
control%20knob_IMG_0602.jpg


Next, I opened up all areas that most have mentioned, and then some. I settled on the compartment to the left of the drivers side foot rest:
foot%20pedal_IMG_4350.jpg


To get to that compartment you need to pull off the foot rest (which pops right off with some might), then unscrew the black plug thingy:
peg_IMG_4347.jpg


In that compartment I found a blue bracket that seems to have been made for the Redarc! There were two unused wire couplings on top of the bracket, that were secured with a plastic holder, that were easily moved behind the blue bracket, as marked:
harness_IMG_4341.jpg


I used two self tapping screws to secure the Redarc:
Redarc_IMG_4346.jpg


Done:
done_IMG_4351.jpg


Oh, I also used my stock wire harness that came with my 4Runner (it was still in the glove compartment!). I T'ed into the ground wire, and grounded accordingly.

Thanks again to everyone who posted to this. I hope this helps anyone with a 4th Gen. I pick up my Mean Bean teardrop trailer in August and hope everything works!
 

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