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Old 02-06-2017, 07:40 PM #1
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2008 T4R A750 Tranny rebuild (no shutter fix)

EDIT: SHUTTER GONE!!!!!! After Driving for 400-500 miles and the problem still occurring, though less, i took it back to see what they wanted to do next. After talking to Mike Brown of ATRA who wrote a book on this specific transmission he said to drive around in 4th gear for a couple of days when applicable speeds are ok. Did just that and not once did i have the shutter. This confirmed to him that it was a "Flex Lock-up" Problem. With the TC replaced he suggested a Ford made Friction Modifier and to let him know the results. If this wasnt a fix then the problem lied 100% in the valve body. A solenoid bore needing work. Lucky for me, the modifier cleared it up completely. The shutter occurred 2-3 times in the first 50 miles or so. After that i havent had it once. The shutter is finally out of my life. The transmission shop explained how factory parts are prepared before assembly and decided that even he will be adding this modifier to every rebuild he does when applicable to help while fluids are being absorbed into clutches and other parts. So thats it. Problem is gone and im finally at ease.

Here is a link to the Valve Body portion that Mike Brown wrote. http://www.gearsmagazine.com/resourc...2010_4_all.pdf

First off i want to say that ive read a lot of useful information about this infamous problem with this transmission on these forums so i appreciate all of it. I thought id do a short post about what ive recently had "fixed" that did not actually fix anything.

To start, ive had to common low RPM 30mph(ish) shudder for a little while. Started infrequently and fairly calm. In recent months it became a bit more aggressive. So, time to take it in. I first took it to my normal shop who i typically trust. I told them about what id read and we decided to start with what was cheap to see if it would do anything at all. A Drain and fill. Not the full flush. The problem persisted so i decided to take it to a reputable transmission specialty shop. First, they discovered that my so called trusted shop left 2 quarts out when i had them do the drain and fill. Theyll here about it. Second, they discovered a worn U-Joint so i got that fixed to eliminate it as a potential cause. It was not that cause. Next we rode around with a computer hooked up to make sure the TPS (throttle position sensor) was working in sync with the transmission while also watching pressures on a gauge during the shift and shuddering. There was, from what i was told as i couldnt see the gauge, a flutter in the pressure during shifts to 3rd and 4th gear when the shutter would occur. From that point it was determined that the problem was the SLT (lock up solenoid). The process had begun to remove the solenoid until the pan had been removed and clutch material was floating around and also stuck to the magnets in the pan. From here it was decided that a disassemble and inspect was in order. They found, which i did in fact see with my eyes, that the clutch packs had definitely had some overheating. one of the splinned shafts was also discolored from heat as well. They later found a second solenoid, the SLU (pressure control solenoid) and the converter has been jacked up. A rebuild it is. They replaces both solenoid with Toyota factory ones, had a brand new converter installed and complete rebuild kit (gaskets, seals, clutches, filters, fluid change, cooler flushed). After $2800 bucks i received my runner back. The problem still exists. It was ever so slightly less apparent and is less frequent. But still there. Theyd reset the computer and told me to return after 500 miles but nothing is yet changing at 300 miles. So, having said all that. What do guys thing? Did i screw up in getting a rebuild? Id inspected the "hard" parts myself and saw no visible wear on parts not replaced. Could my problem lie elsewhere outside of the tranny? I dont expect my problem to magically go away after 500 miles. Im hoping for someone to point me in the right direction.

Last edited by NickTea; 02-28-2017 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 02-06-2017, 08:51 PM #2
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Moving this to 4th Gen section, where uses this transmission .
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:30 PM #3
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Moving this to 4th Gen section, where uses this transmission .

Thank you. I wasnt sure where since there are multiple vehicles that use this transmission. That works though.
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Old 02-06-2017, 10:27 PM #4
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First mistake was only doing a drain and fill. When the tranny shudders, its mainly due to contaminated ATF gummming up the clutch packs/ solenoids/ whatever. Anyway, Some Toyota dealers offer a "flush" service. This will take ALL the dirty fluid out. Next you HAVE TO Add (or Toyota) a tube of shudder Fix. Its a strong chemical that breaks down contamination where ever it is occurring. Regular ATF changing simply won't do the job the SF will. Sorry you spent $2800, I honestly believe you didn't have to.
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Old 02-06-2017, 11:37 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CookieRoe View Post
First mistake was only doing a drain and fill. When the tranny shudders, its mainly due to contaminated ATF gummming up the clutch packs/ solenoids/ whatever. Anyway, Some Toyota dealers offer a "flush" service. This will take ALL the dirty fluid out. Next you HAVE TO Add (or Toyota) a tube of shudder Fix. Its a strong chemical that breaks down contamination where ever it is occurring. Regular ATF changing simply won't do the job the SF will. Sorry you spent $2800, I honestly believe you didn't have to.
I sorta agree, but he still has the shudder issue even after the total rebuild.

He asking how to resolve the issue now, from what I have read the shudder is an issue pertaining to the torque converter design, maybe the Shudder Fixx additive might work, I have read that it contains lubricants to help solve the issue, this is the first I have read that Shudder Fixx cleans out contaminates to solve the issue.

Anyway here's a link to where you can buy Shudder Fixx online as well as a product description, you may find it at a local parts store as well, it's worth a try and it won't do any harm to your transmission.

"The original transmission shudder fix
A concentrated friction modifier formulated specifically for instantly eliminating torque converter lock-up shudder
Provides four times less wear than regular ATF
For use in any automatic transmission fluid (not for use in Ford Type F or CVT applications)
Voted top product by transmission professionals"

https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-1961.../dp/B0002JMLQU
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Old 02-07-2017, 01:04 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker View Post
I sorta agree, but he still has the shudder issue even after the total rebuild.

He asking how to resolve the issue now, from what I have read the shudder is an issue pertaining to the torque converter design, maybe the Shudder Fixx additive might work, I have read that it contains lubricants to help solve the issue, this is the first I have read that Shudder Fixx cleans out contaminates to solve the issue.

Anyway here's a link to where you can buy Shudder Fixx online as well as a product description, you may find it at a local parts store as well, it's worth a try and it won't do any harm to your transmission.

"The original transmission shudder fix
A concentrated friction modifier formulated specifically for instantly eliminating torque converter lock-up shudder
Provides four times less wear than regular ATF
For use in any automatic transmission fluid (not for use in Ford Type F or CVT applications)
Voted top product by transmission professionals"

https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-1961.../dp/B0002JMLQU
After that extensive rebuilt, sounds as though more damage was done to the tranny. I think (amateur's opinion, an expert can chime in here) SF could've helped, the majority of us who experience the shudder get it done relatively quickly. Maybe there is "material" still in the tranny that the rebuild didn't address. Anyway,(OP infers he has had the problem for months). Maybe it was too late for him. I find it disturbing that after all that money, the problem persists.

OP, you CAN NOT hurt anything by adding the SF now and see if that helps.

Good luck!
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Old 02-07-2017, 01:17 PM #7
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Don't ever do a rebuild in my opinion it's just a waist of cash! In a rebuild all they are doing is exchanging parts if they are out of spec and mixing old parts with new parts. The best way to go is a remanufactured transmission. The units are completely taken apart cleaned and parts replaced with new parts from the factory. If and when my transmission finally goes this is the route I plan on going. 270K on original so who knows when I'll need a replacement.

As for the shudder I had some issues with it about 100 thousand miles ago. Ended up doing a flush with AMSOIL ATF and problem went away.

http://www.transmissionsexpress.com/...smissions.html

Good explanation of the difference.

http://www.jasperengines.com/blog/ja...-transmissions

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Old 02-07-2017, 02:12 PM #8
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Originally Posted by sfb275 View Post
Don't ever do a rebuild in my opinion it's just a waist of cash! In a rebuild all they are doing is exchanging parts if they are out of spec and mixing old parts with new parts. The best way to go is a remanufactured transmission. The units are completely taken apart cleaned and parts replaced with new parts from the factory. If and when my transmission finally goes this is the route I plan on going. 270K on original so who knows when I'll need a replacement.

As for the shudder I had some issues with it about 100 thousand miles ago. Ended up doing a flush with AMSOIL ATF and problem went away.

Transmissions Express-Your One-Stop Source for Quality Remanufactured Transmissions - Toyota Transmissions

Good explanation of the difference.

JASPER Offers Remanufactured Toyota A750E and A750F Transmissions | www.jasperengines.com

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What year?
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Old 02-07-2017, 02:31 PM #9
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What year?
2007 V8 sport! With 271030 miles on it.

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Old 02-07-2017, 10:06 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CookieRoe View Post
After that extensive rebuilt, sounds as though more damage was done to the tranny. I think (amateur's opinion, an expert can chime in here) SF could've helped, the majority of us who experience the shudder get it done relatively quickly. Maybe there is "material" still in the tranny that the rebuild didn't address. Anyway,(OP infers he has had the problem for months). Maybe it was too late for him. I find it disturbing that after all that money, the problem persists.

OP, you CAN NOT hurt anything by adding the SF now and see if that helps.

Good luck!
As far as material still in the transmission goes, i wouldnt imagine so. I watched them complete tear down to till every part was out of the housing. They said they put everything in whatever machine they use for like 12 hours to extensively clean everything. I mean, the parts that were replaced were damaged but still, after spending that i would thing it would be gone. It did come with a 3 year unlimited mile warranty for parts and labor. Its going back for its first check up this week at 500 miles. Which i have to do or they void the warranty. They will know im pissed.
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Old 09-13-2017, 03:43 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTea View Post
As far as material still in the transmission goes, i wouldnt imagine so. I watched them complete tear down to till every part was out of the housing. They said they put everything in whatever machine they use for like 12 hours to extensively clean everything. I mean, the parts that were replaced were damaged but still, after spending that i would thing it would be gone. It did come with a 3 year unlimited mile warranty for parts and labor. Its going back for its first check up this week at 500 miles. Which i have to do or they void the warranty. They will know im pissed.
Glad you got the shudder figured out, on the plus side you know you have a solid tranny for a long time!

Who was this guy that wrote a book on the tranny?
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:40 PM #12
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Glad you got the shudder figured out, on the plus side you know you have a solid tranny for a long time!

Who was this guy that wrote a book on the tranny?
The OP mentioned his name in his "EDIT" in the first post....Mike Brown, the OP also posted a link to an article by Mike Brown about the valvebody in the first post as well!
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Old 01-29-2022, 04:29 PM #13
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Anyone ever heard of A750 rebuild case problems / tranny help request

New member. Canít find an appropriate thread and havenít hit my 15 but this thread is pretty close. I already posted this in the New Member forum but trying to hit my 15 and the sticky said itís okay to repost same question to multiple threads but rules said itís not, so not sure what to do.

INTRO

New member first post looking for advice on what I suspect is a transmission problem with my A750F tranny on my 2008 T4R Sport 4wd 4.0 v6 with 196000 miles, and maybe more importantlyÖ.on how best to get advice from this forum given the 15 post requirement and being new here.

Iíve already read through every A750F thread I could find, although this is a big forum so itís very possible I missed something, probably many things given thatÖ

This is my first car in 15 years and I am not a ďcar guyĒ so I have been trying my best to get up to speed quickly by reading articles and watching videos online but obviously there is still a TON I donít know and things I donít even know I donít know, so apologies upfront for any ďstupidĒ questions or posts - Iím trying my best to educate myself and learn from the very knowledgeable, friendly, and helpful people on this forum. My goal is to be humble, grateful, and open minded. Very appreciative upfront for anyone who takes the time to read or respond to my posts!

BACKGROUND

I just purchased a used 2008 T4R Sport v6 that now has 196,000 for $11,300 all in with taxes and fees. It came with a 15 day 500 mile warranty. After about 45 days and 2,500 miles (drove it from Chicago, where purchased, to Colorado) Iím having what I suspect are transmission issues so Iím outside the warranty. I donít have a strong handle on previous owners driving habits / maintenance record. It passed the dealers 21 point inspection but I fear I was sold a lemon. I now realize I shouldnít have trusted the dealer and had a mechanic inspect it. Also I should have been tipped off by the weak warranty. I also should have it looked at as soon I started having issue. Yes yes I know I know. But thatís spilt milk, Iím stuck with it now so please donít flame me on what I now know were stupid decisions not doing my due diligence and taking action right away. Iím a noob learning the hard way.

ISSUES

At first the car drove great and then around 2,000 or so miles from purchase it had a little trouble getting into gear, but once it was there it drove fine. Accelerating slowly seemed to help ease gear shifts at this point.

Then, it started having issues upon starting. Started fine but I had trouble getting it into gear at all. It was like I was in neutral even though I was in Drive revving without going anywhere. I had to rev it up to 3k rpm to get it moving / into gear which it kind of slid into but then it was fine. This seemed to be exacerbated by cold temps. The warmer the car, the easier to get it moving.

Soon after that it started having additional issues at speed on highway where the tachometer would shoot up by 3k rpm (from 2k up to 5k rpmís) as if the car was in neutral before dropping and clunking into gear. I think this is called gear slipping. Didnít happen all the time and again, seemed to work better when the car was warmed up on the road for a bit but still occasional clunky shift before warming up and sometimes when starting from a stoplight.

Now Iím at the point where the car will not get into gear at all. When I press on the accelerator, itís as if Iím in neutral - engine revs but doesnít go into gear / move forward at all no matter how high I rev it. Iíve tried all combinations of moving the shifter between L, 2, 3, 4 and D; 2H, 4H, 4L; CDL diff lock; warm and cold engine. Nothing. Only gear that works is reverse and even for that I have to rev it up to 3k before it starts moving backwards. In D, if I really punch it, at around 5k rpmís I get a slight rumble from the center of the car as if something is going to happenÖor explodeÖbut then nothing. Car is on the side of the road now. Very sad.

Also, the dash is a Christmas tree. MIL/check engine light solid; MAINT light solid; Slip indicator / TRAC light solid (not affected by pressing the TRAC button); VSC light flashing (not affected by pressing VSC button).

UPDATE: DTC Codes

Red X light (Indicates there is a problem in one or more of the vehicle's systems. The red LED is also used to show that DTC(s) are present. DTCs are shown on the Code Readerís LCD display. In this case, the Malfunction Indicator (ďCheck EngineĒ) lamp on the vehicle's instrument panel will light steady on.)

Solid Monitor Icons (When a Monitor icon is solid, it indicates that the associated Monitor has completed its diagnostic testing)
M - Misfire Monitor
F - Fuel System Monitor
CC - Comprehensive Component Monitor (CCM)
O - Oxygen Sensor Monitor
OH - Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor

Flashing Monitor Icons (indicates that the vehicle supports the associated Monitor, but the Monitor has not yet run its diagnostic testing)
C - Catalyst Monitor
EV - EVAP System Monitor

MIL "Freeze Frame"
P2714 - Pressure Control Solenoid D Performance Or Stuck Off

MIL alone (no additional text on display such as Pending, Freeze Frame, Permanent or ABS)
P0441 - Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0455 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak)
P0771 - Shift Solenoid E Performance / Stuck Off
P2757 - Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance/Stuck Off

MIL "Pending"
P0441 - Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0455 - Evap System Large Leak Detected
P0771 - Shift Solenoid E Performance / Stuck Off
P0776 - Pressure Control Solenoid B Perf/Off
P0781 - 1-2 Shift Malfunction
P0894 - Transmission Component Slipping
P2714 - Pressure Control Solenoid D Perf/Off
P2757 - Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance/Stuck Off

ABS
C1201 - VEHICLE STABILITY CONTROL (VSC) CANCELLED DUE TO ENGINE CONTROL MODULE FAILURE.


The dealer I bought the car from wonít help and theyíre 1,200 miles away in Chicago anyway so no chance of me towing it there.

CURRENT THOUGHTS AND PLAN

I will need to get the car towed and am trying to avoid having to tow it twice, so Iím trying to figure out the right place to take it in my new home of Basalt, CO where I have no experience with the mechanics and only know a handful of people to get recommendations from.

Iíve called around and basically everyone is telling me I am going to need a rebuilt/reman transmission. Iím holding out hope that itís something smaller, like rusted electrical / solenoids, gas cap (which I donít think it is), ATF exchange (as Iím doubting the tranny fluid was ever drained and filled), etc. but Iím trying to make a decision about where to take it based on the worst case scenario - a dead tranny - so that I donít have to tow it all over town and pay multiple people to drop the pan/remove the tranny to inspect it. I rather go to the right place first that can do the nuclear option if needed as well as any smaller repairs if thatís all it takes to get it moving again without getting ďsoldĒ a rebuild / reman if I donít really need one.

From this Forum, interent research, and conversations with friends - while opinions vary - it seems Iím best off NOT going to the dealerÖthat they will just try to sell me a reman at top dollar straight away. Iíve also heard donít go to a general mechanic as, if it is a transmission issue, they will likely outsource it to a tranny specialist or send me to one. So, Iím thinking Iíll take it to a transmission specialist right offÖwhich here in rural CO with a car that wonít drive forward, leaves me with only 2 options within AAA 50mile towing distance.

Both places seem to have good reputations - one is independent, has been here forever, and seems to be ďtheĒ place whereas the other is a Mister Transmission franchise but by all accounts also has a stellar reputation. But this is where things get interestingÖ

The independent shop says they will NOT open the transmission and instead, after diagnosing/determining the issue is inside/with the tranny and not something else, they would order a reman A750F. Why? Because they have seen too many A750 rebuilds / point repairs over the years come back after 30-50k miles with ďcase problemsĒ and that there is no way to tell if the tranny is going to have a case issue or not - that itís a crap shoot and given their experience, itís a gamble not worth taking. They want to charge me $4,700 total - parts and labor - for the reman tranny. Eek! Thatís almost half the cost of the car that has nearly 200k miles on it already. Yowzers! (PS - they charge $110/hr labor)

Now, Iíve searched extensively to see if anyone else has had case problems with the A750F/E after a rebuild and Iíve found nothing, zero, zip! So that has me wondering, is this reputable shop not actually that reputable? As in, are they just trying to sell me the most expensive option OR do they not know how to rebuild/repair an A750 correctly such that when they have done it in the past, theyíve had them come back with case issues 30k-50k miles later?

Thoughts?

The other shop - Mister Transmission - said they will open up my tranny and if it can be repaired / rebuilt for less than a reman, thatís what theyíll do, and if not, theyíll put a reman in there. They charge $1,200 flat fee on labor but havenít gotten back to me with part prices. Depending on prices, Iím leaning towards going with them but if ďcase problemsĒ on A750 rebuilds really is a known issue, then maybe Iím better off just going to whichever will charge me the least for a reman.

Both have 12k/12month warranty but Mister Transmission ups it to 100k/3year on a reman parts and labor included.

Thoughts?

Also - what do you think about other options like buying a used tranny and having a general mechanic install it?

QUESTIONS SUMMARY - TLDR

-Has anyone ever heard of A750ís having ďcaseĒ problems or any other type of issues after a rebuild? Is this a known ďthingĒ?

-In general, what do you recommend for a nearly 200k mile 2008 SportÖa used tranny, spot repair (if possible), rebuild, or reman A750 transmission? Also, any sense on reasonable price ranges for these options? It seems like thereís lots of disagreement on this topic.

-Overall, am I better off trying to sell the broken car ďas isĒ and putting whatever money I can get for it along with my savings from NOT fixing it into a different car? The car has other issues - muffler is falling off, rear windshield wiper doesnít work, has rust from Chicago winters, rear seat release/fold down button is missing, and center console (Temp, audio system) lights burnt out. Plus, I donít have any personal attachment to it as itís new to me.

-Any other advice / things Iím not thinking about / should consider? For example, is it worth exchanging the ATF to see if that fixes it (seems like a lot of people advise against this and itís only delaying the inevitable)?

Again, Iím not mechanical, so except for very simple stuff where I can follow detailed instructions, Iím not confident / able to do much on my own, sadly.

THANK YOU SO MUCH IN ADVANCE!!! Really appreciate your advice and please let me know if there is more info I can include to help!
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Last edited by DrJabberwocky; 01-31-2022 at 09:05 PM. Reason: updated with DTC codes
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Old 01-29-2022, 07:14 PM #14
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Your post is very long but I feel for you, BUT I stopped reading about halfway though once I got the jest of your problem.

The first thing I would have done upon experiencing the first transmission slipping issue would have been checking the fluid level which was most likely the issue BUT by not doing so you most likely have damaged the transmission to the point it now has to be rebuilt or replaced, increasing the RPMs while it's slipping will only damage the clutch plates, the fluid in the transmission provide the hydraulic pressure to press the clutch plates together without that pressure the plates just slip and eventually wear out.

These Toyota transmissions are as close as you will get to being bulletproof if the proper maintenance is done and it's possible if it's a low fluid issue adding some fluid to get the proper level may get the transmission working again, but be prepare for that to not happen since you didn't check the fluid level when you first started having an issue, an be happy if it does.

If it's not low on fluid some from the "rust belt" have had issues with the electrical connector on the transmission corroding and losing connection, have someone check the connector,

That being if it need replacing I would go with a low mileage (under 150,000 miles) used transmission from a savage yard and paying someone to install it.

Without knowing the codes I can't comment on them at this point, but the transmission is the biggest issue you have right now and should be addressed first.
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Old 01-29-2022, 08:11 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrJabberwocky View Post
New member. Canít find an appropriate thread and havenít hit my 15 but this thread is pretty close. I already posted this in the New Member forum but trying to hit my 15 and the sticky said itís okay to repost same question to multiple threads but rules said itís not, so not sure what to do.

INTRO

New member first post looking for advice on what I suspect is a transmission problem with my A750F tranny on my 2008 T4R Sport 4wd 4.0 v6 with 196000 miles, and maybe more importantlyÖ.on how best to get advice from this forum given the 15 post requirement and being new here.

Iíve already read through every A750F thread I could find, although this is a big forum so itís very possible I missed something, probably many things given thatÖ

This is my first car in 15 years and I am not a ďcar guyĒ so I have been trying my best to get up to speed quickly by reading articles and watching videos online but obviously there is still a TON I donít know and things I donít even know I donít know, so apologies upfront for any ďstupidĒ questions or posts - Iím trying my best to educate myself and learn from the very knowledgeable, friendly, and helpful people on this forum. My goal is to be humble, grateful, and open minded. Very appreciative upfront for anyone who takes the time to read or respond to my posts!

BACKGROUND

I just purchased a used 2008 T4R Sport v6 that now has 196,000 for $11,300 all in with taxes and fees. It came with a 15 day 500 mile warranty. After about 45 days and 2,500 miles (drove it from Chicago, where purchased, to Colorado) Iím having what I suspect are transmission issues so Iím outside the warranty. I donít have a strong handle on previous owners driving habits / maintenance record. It passed the dealers 21 point inspection but I fear I was sold a lemon. I now realize I shouldnít have trusted the dealer and had a mechanic inspect it. Also I should have been tipped off by the weak warranty. I also should have it looked at as soon I started having issue. Yes yes I know I know. But thatís spilt milk, Iím stuck with it now so please donít flame me on what I now know were stupid decisions not doing my due diligence and taking action right away. Iím a noob learning the hard way.

ISSUES

At first the car drove great and then around 2,000 or so miles from purchase it had a little trouble getting into gear, but once it was there it drove fine. Accelerating slowly seemed to help ease gear shifts at this point.

Then, it started having issues upon starting. Started fine but I had trouble getting it into gear at all. It was like I was in neutral even though I was in Drive revving without going anywhere. I had to rev it up to 3k rpm to get it moving / into gear which it kind of slid into but then it was fine. This seemed to be exacerbated by cold temps. The warmer the car, the easier to get it moving.

Soon after that it started having additional issues at speed on highway where the tachometer would shoot up by 3k rpm (from 2k up to 5k rpmís) as if the car was in neutral before dropping and clunking into gear. I think this is called gear slipping. Didnít happen all the time and again, seemed to work better when the car was warmed up on the road for a bit but still occasional clunky shift before warming up and sometimes when starting from a stoplight.

Now Iím at the point where the car will not get into gear at all. When I press on the accelerator, itís as if Iím in neutral - engine revs but doesnít go into gear / move forward at all no matter how high I rev it. Iíve tried all combinations of moving the shifter between L, 2, 3, 4 and D; 2H, 4H, 4L; CDL diff lock; warm and cold engine. Nothing. Only gear that works is reverse and even for that I have to rev it up to 3k before it starts moving backwards. In D, if I really punch it, at around 5k rpmís I get a slight rumble from the center of the car as if something is going to happenÖor explodeÖbut then nothing. Car is on the side of the road now. Very sad.

Also, the dash is a Christmas tree. MIL/check engine light solid; MAINT light solid; Slip indicator / TRAC light solid (not affected by pressing the TRAC button); VSC light flashing (not affected by pressing VSC button).

I donít have a code reader so I canít tell you the DTCís but am trying to get my hands on one and will update this post once I do.

The dealer I bought the car from wonít help and theyíre 1,200 miles away in Chicago anyway so no chance of me towing it there.

CURRENT THOUGHTS AND PLAN

I will need to get the car towed and am trying to avoid having to tow it twice, so Iím trying to figure out the right place to take it in my new home of Basalt, CO where I have no experience with the mechanics and only know a handful of people to get recommendations from.

Iíve called around and basically everyone is telling me I am going to need a rebuilt/reman transmission. Iím holding out hope that itís something smaller, like rusted electrical / solenoids, gas cap (which I donít think it is), ATF exchange (as Iím doubting the tranny fluid was ever drained and filled), etc. but Iím trying to make a decision about where to take it based on the worst case scenario - a dead tranny - so that I donít have to tow it all over town and pay multiple people to drop the pan/remove the tranny to inspect it. I rather go to the right place first that can do the nuclear option if needed as well as any smaller repairs if thatís all it takes to get it moving again without getting ďsoldĒ a rebuild / reman if I donít really need one.

From this Forum, interent research, and conversations with friends - while opinions vary - it seems Iím best off NOT going to the dealerÖthat they will just try to sell me a reman at top dollar straight away. Iíve also heard donít go to a general mechanic as, if it is a transmission issue, they will likely outsource it to a tranny specialist or send me to one. So, Iím thinking Iíll take it to a transmission specialist right offÖwhich here in rural CO with a car that wonít drive forward, leaves me with only 2 options within AAA 50mile towing distance.

Both places seem to have good reputations - one is independent, has been here forever, and seems to be ďtheĒ place whereas the other is a Mister Transmission franchise but by all accounts also has a stellar reputation. But this is where things get interestingÖ

The independent shop says they will NOT open the transmission and instead, after diagnosing/determining the issue is inside/with the tranny and not something else, they would order a reman A750F. Why? Because they have seen too many A750 rebuilds / point repairs over the years come back after 30-50k miles with ďcase problemsĒ and that there is no way to tell if the tranny is going to have a case issue or not - that itís a crap shoot and given their experience, itís a gamble not worth taking. They want to charge me $4,700 total - parts and labor - for the reman tranny. Eek! Thatís almost half the cost of the car that has nearly 200k miles on it already. Yowzers! (PS - they charge $110/hr labor)

Now, Iíve searched extensively to see if anyone else has had case problems with the A750F/E after a rebuild and Iíve found nothing, zero, zip! So that has me wondering, is this reputable shop not actually that reputable? As in, are they just trying to sell me the most expensive option OR do they not know how to rebuild/repair an A750 correctly such that when they have done it in the past, theyíve had them come back with case issues 30k-50k miles later?

Thoughts?

The other shop - Mister Transmission - said they will open up my tranny and if it can be repaired / rebuilt for less than a reman, thatís what theyíll do, and if not, theyíll put a reman in there. They charge $1,200 flat fee on labor but havenít gotten back to me with part prices. Depending on prices, Iím leaning towards going with them but if ďcase problemsĒ on A750 rebuilds really is a known issue, then maybe Iím better off just going to whichever will charge me the least for a reman.

Both have 12k/12month warranty but Mister Transmission ups it to 100k/3year on a reman parts and labor included.

Thoughts?

Also - what do you think about other options like buying a used tranny and having a general mechanic install it?

QUESTIONS SUMMARY - TLDR

-Has anyone ever heard of A750ís having ďcaseĒ problems or any other type of issues after a rebuild? Is this a known ďthingĒ?

-In general, what do you recommend for a nearly 200k mile 2008 SportÖa used tranny, spot repair (if possible), rebuild, or reman A750 transmission? Also, any sense on reasonable price ranges for these options? It seems like thereís lots of disagreement on this topic.

-Overall, am I better off trying to sell the broken car ďas isĒ and putting whatever money I can get for it along with my savings from NOT fixing it into a different car? The car has other issues - muffler is falling off, rear windshield wiper doesnít work, has rust from Chicago winters, rear seat release/fold down button is missing, and center console (Temp, audio system) lights burnt out. Plus, I donít have any personal attachment to it as itís new to me.

-Any other advice / things Iím not thinking about / should consider? For example, is it worth exchanging the ATF to see if that fixes it (seems like a lot of people advise against this and itís only delaying the inevitable)?

Again, Iím not mechanical, so except for very simple stuff where I can follow detailed instructions, Iím not confident / able to do much on my own, sadly.

THANK YOU SO MUCH IN ADVANCE!!! Really appreciate your advice and please let me know if there is more info I can include to help!
I just skimmed your message so forgive me if I missed something but if I were in your shoes, I'd have it towed to Bighorn Toyota in CO Springs and have them perform a transmission fluid exchange.

A transmission flush might be the nail in the coffin, so you'll want to ensure the fluid is exchanged (also a simple DIY if you're mechanically inclined).

These transmissions are pretty bulletproof and some of the symptoms you're describing are consistent with low (or incorrect) fluid. Any records from the selling dealer regarding pre-sale services performed? Any fluid drips on the driveway or undercarriage?
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