2.2 inch pulley Help!!!

[gamefreakgc]

Thanks for the replies! I don't have the O2 wideband yet, but planning on getting it.

I have noticed since reading your replies that the noise does seem to be worse when the fuel is lower, however it makes that noise all the time. Hopefully that's not the pump going bad.

UPDATE: The 4runner actually broke down last weekend in Davis, CA. Engine started shaking violently and it sounded terrible. Toyota dealership there told me it was my spark plugs and a coil, charged me 500 bucks to replace them.

5 minutes driving it off the lot, same lights come on. Took it back and they quoted me 1500 bucks to change the "faulty" knock sensor. I didn't trust their diagnosis, especially since they broke my antenna while in the shop, so I took it to my cousin who has experience working on cars.

After testing the car all day, we couldn't figure out if the car is leaning out and getting knock, or if the sensor is bad. We plugged into the URD kit and (neither of us know a lot about tuning) but it seemed like it was off-- didn't seem like the values were right...
Interestingly, we did notice a vacuum leak that we took care of, but the lights persist. Plus, there's this strange issue where sometimes the car will drive great and get good throttle response, and other times it revs up but goes nowhere and feels like it's towing a trailer. My cousin even noticed the bogginess when he drove it, but couldn't think of what would cause that.

Does anyone know of a tuner or T4R member in the bay area that may be able to help me out? I'm located in San Francisco now and my car has gotten to the point where if I don't figure this out I may have to sell it. I'm a recent college grad and I love this car more than anything, but it's costing me more than my hourly job can pay for at the moment and I'd hate to see it die due to neglect.

My next step is to try to get it tuned right so I can try to eliminate any other issues. I don't know much, but I'm trying to use the forum to learn as much as I can. Any suggestions/leads/tips are welcomed.

What codes are popping up? We can help with more specifics.

I'm not exactly near the Bay Area... but if you ever find yourself in Sacramento on a weekend let me know.

 

[J. B.]

I'm in the southbay and I have the 2.2 pulley.

I'll have to find my laptop w/ the maps and see if those will help you.

Post up what code you're getting... sounds like it's related to knock sensor and the ecu is pulling timing.
Mine is actually doing that right now. code is P0325. I just ordered a new wire harness from toyota. I hope my knock sensors are fine... but we'll see.

As mentioned already, the fuel pump whine is normal depending on what type of pump you have.

dump question... but assume you're running 91 octane fuel yes?

 

[gamefreakgc]

dump question... but assume you're running 91 octane fuel yes?

Not a dumb question! I didn't even think of that. Knew a guy who ran 87 in his supercharged 4Runner and wondered why it pinged! :doh:

 

[rarnett91]

First of all, thank you for all the replies! Great to have some experience people willing to help me out. :thanks:

I'll try to answer everything.

1. I'm using 91 octane fuel. Even tried racing fuel at one point but it didn't help me.

2. The bearings should be fine, but they're on my radar coming up. I had the supercharger installed at 60k and I'm at 138k now.

3. The code I'm getting is P0325 for the right side knock sensor. JB, do you think I should hold off on that repair? I found a shop that can do it for $444 not including parts. Better than the 1500 toyota quoted me.

Does anyone know if the 7th Injector kit "learns?" Reason I ask is because when I plugged into it for the first time last weekend, there was this random 25.5 value in one of the cells on both maps. I already emailed Gadget at URD and got the base map file, so I'm going to reupload that and try resetting my EFI like the documentation says.

And yeah if anyone is free to meet up, I can come to you. My cousin races cars on the weekends and he was helping me diagnose my car—he has no idea why my engine doesn't seem to be creating power. I do think it may be running lean... but honestly I don't have the expertise/equipment to figure that out for sure... in the meantime, I'm looking over the 7th injector installation stuff to make sure everything is hooked up right and I'm reading up the documentation from URD about tuning in the meantime trying to educate myself.

And thanks to everyone that has offered to send me fuel maps! That would be super helpful.

 

[rarnett91]

And I feel like I should clarify:

I installed my supercharger with the 7th injector kit, K&N filter all together at 60k back in 2008. Haven't messed with them at all till recently.

More recently in about August-ish, I removed the K&N in favor of the stock airflow and put on the 2.2 inch. Had no issues until this breakdown recently.

Toyota installed the stock plugs a couple weeks ago in Davis, so now instead of the IK22's I'm running the platinum plugs. Planning to reorder the IK22s when I get a chance, but for now I'm not sure if it makes that big a difference.

 

[J. B.]

you need to address the P0325 code first.

I'm pretty sure it's a bad connection in the wire harness for the knock sensor. A new harness from Toyota is around $25. Believe it is:

TOYOTA OEM WIRE, SENSOR 82219-34010

It takes some effort to get to it... have to remove s/c and intake manifold to get to it in the center of the 'V' on the engine.

Here's a thread on replacement:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/149425-toyota-3-4l-5vz-fe-knock-sensor-location.html

Once that is cleared up, make sure you have the correct base map for the 7th injector loaded. Then we can address any other issues.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Toyota installed the stock plugs a couple weeks ago in Davis, so now instead of the IK22's I'm running the platinum plugs. Planning to reorder the IK22s when I get a chance, but for now I'm not sure if it makes that big a difference.

That might be part of the problem. The platinum plugs don't provide as much protection against pre-detonation (also known as knock) and could mess with the timing.

The code is almost certainly a problem with the knock sensor. When it goes bad it'll seriously retard your timing and steal any and all power. JB's got you on the right track. With some time and being careful it's not a hard job. $444 sounds about right since it's more of a time-consuming task than a hard one.

I might add though, you'll probably want them to put a Toyota sensor in there, not a random aftermarket one. Toyotas can be picky with sensors like that. You might have to buy it and provide it to them but ask them first since not all shops will do that.

 

[J. B.]

Ah yes, forgot to address the plugs... but yeah, I'd go back and put in new IK22 plugs.

Also, no, the 7th injector piggyback controller doesn't "learn"
You can adjust the maps for tuning, but once it's loaded, that's what it's working with.

 

[angus]

I think you guys should all consider a proper dyno tune for your URD kits.

I had to do mine 2X to get it sorted but it was worth it - URD's tune is crap.

Their service is Crap.

And they will lie to you.

Forget them, if I need to buy anything else I'd rather buy a different vehicle so I don't have to deal with them again.

^^ and when I say "forget" - what I really mean is a different word that begins with "F".

Sorry but I feel like for all their hype, I got nothing but BS.

 

[Robb235]

I would replace the knock sensor wiring harness first. Those have been known to go bad.

 

[MTD]

I think you guys should all consider a proper dyno tune for your URD kits.

I had to do mine 2X to get it sorted but it was worth it - URD's tune is crap.

Their service is Crap.

And they will lie to you.

Forget them, if I need to buy anything else I'd rather buy a different vehicle so I don't have to deal with them again.

^^ and when I say "forget" - what I really mean is a different word that begins with "F".

Sorry but I feel like for all their hype, I got nothing but BS.

Two acronyms(lol):

AEM FIC

 

[J. B.]

Two acronyms(lol):

AEM FIC

It's all pretty similar stuff. The split second piggyback isn't even a URD part.... so....

And yes, mine has been on a dyno and tuned.
My laptop is in a box in storage somewhere, otherwise I would have sent out my map files already. There is definitely power and fuel economy to be gained by fine tuning and not just using the base maps supplied by URD (or whoever).

 

[rarnett91]

Thanks for the info guys! I already ordered the wiring harness, and am picking it up for around 8-10 bucks from a Toyota Dealership in SF.

As for the knock sensors, I found them on RockAuto and they say they are Denso, which I've heard are basically OEM Toyota parts. I guess that would technically be aftermarket, but I've heard they're still good to use. Do you guys think that's a good way to go or should I go through the dealer? Online they seem like the same part.

Do you guys think it's worth the money to get the NGK spark plug wires and a couple OEM coils?
I just replaced one coil at Toyota in Davis, and the car runs and sounds a lot better— so now I'm wondering if they could all be on their last legs. Not sure what the lifespan of those is, but they definitely look kinda old compared to the new one I just got installed.

One last question: my cousin was concerned that the engine could be throwing that code because it's picking up knock—is that possible? I just don't want to do all this work for the harness and sensor and then find out it was something else causing the sensor to trip.

In the meantime, I'm going to try to get that compression test before I do the repair and see if there's any leak.


Small update:

Last night I took out the EFI fuse, reset the fault code, and uploaded the new base map I got from Gadget. Let the car idle for a few minutes and warm up, drove like 20 feet and the code came back on. So I guess the map wasn't the problem.


Thanks again for all the help guys!

 

[MTD]

It's all pretty similar stuff. The split second piggyback isn't even a URD part.... so....

And yes, mine has been on a dyno and tuned.
My laptop is in a box in storage somewhere, otherwise I would have sent out my map files already. There is definitely power and fuel economy to be gained by fine tuning and not just using the base maps supplied by URD (or whoever).

Yes and mostly no... The split second piggy back is out of date and doesn't offer anywhere near the same number of features as the AEM. Its not that URD makes it or not either its the fact that there is tech out there that is clearly superior and urd continues to supply customers with sub par products.

Now I am not saying that if you have a urd 7th kit that you should tear it out and switch, but if there are customers in the market they should know what they are getting and what other options there are so they can make an informed choice.

 

[J. B.]

Yes and mostly no... The split second piggy back is out of date and doesn't offer anywhere near the same number of features as the AEM. Its not that URD makes it or not either its the fact that there is tech out there that is clearly superior and urd continues to supply customers with sub par products.

Now I am not saying that if you have a urd 7th kit that you should tear it out and switch, but if there are customers in the market they should know what they are getting and what other options there are so they can make an informed choice.

That I can agree with.
Perhaps you could share the wisdom in the supercharger thread as well?
(maybe you have already and I haven't seen it. but thanks)

 

[MTD]

That I can agree with.
Perhaps you could share the wisdom in the supercharger thread as well?
(maybe you have already and I haven't seen it. but thanks)

I am working on putting together a writeup on making a piggy back PNP harness and a tuning guide with reference maps for the s/c thread. I should be done with it by the end of June since finals are next week and I will be in AZ for overland expo the week after.

 

[J. B.]

Thanks for the info guys! I already ordered the wiring harness, and am picking it up for around 8-10 bucks from a Toyota Dealership in SF.

As for the knock sensors, I found them on RockAuto and they say they are Denso, which I've heard are basically OEM Toyota parts. I guess that would technically be aftermarket, but I've heard they're still good to use. Do you guys think that's a good way to go or should I go through the dealer? Online they seem like the same part.

Do you guys think it's worth the money to get the NGK spark plug wires and a couple OEM coils?
I just replaced one coil at Toyota in Davis, and the car runs and sounds a lot better— so now I'm wondering if they could all be on their last legs. Not sure what the lifespan of those is, but they definitely look kinda old compared to the new one I just got installed.

One last question: my cousin was concerned that the engine could be throwing that code because it's picking up knock—is that possible? I just don't want to do all this work for the harness and sensor and then find out it was something else causing the sensor to trip.

In the meantime, I'm going to try to get that compression test before I do the repair and see if there's any leak.


Small update:

Last night I took out the EFI fuse, reset the fault code, and uploaded the new base map I got from Gadget. Let the car idle for a few minutes and warm up, drove like 20 feet and the code came back on. So I guess the map wasn't the problem.


Thanks again for all the help guys!

The Denso knock sensor you got online is fine. I would not spend the extra money for one from the dealer.
Most likely your sensor is fine and it's just an issue with the wire harness.
Look through the thread I linked earlier and also search knock sensor wire harness or the P0325 or P0330 code.
The code is for a problem with the circuit communicating with the ecm.

If you engine was knocking, the knock sensor and ecm would pull timing to take care of it -- that alone wouldn't throw a CEL. You have a problem with the circuit (most likely the wire harness).

Also, a compression test won't tell you about leaky valves or cylinder rings -- you need to do a leak down test. Compression test can be done right prior to the leak down so you know how your compression numbers measure up.

Getting new wires with the new plugs is a good idea. I'd pass on the coils unless they are actually bad.

 

[J. B.]

I am working on putting together a writeup on making a piggy back PNP harness and a tuning guide with reference maps for the s/c thread. I should be done with it by the end of June since finals are next week and I will be in AZ for overland expo the week after.

That's great! That'll surely help a lot of people out.

Have fun at the expo!

 

[MTD]

That's great! That'll surely help a lot of people out.

Have fun at the expo!

Thanks will do!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Yes and mostly no... The split second piggy back is out of date and doesn't offer anywhere near the same number of features as the AEM. Its not that URD makes it or not either its the fact that there is tech out there that is clearly superior and urd continues to supply customers with sub par products.

Now I am not saying that if you have a urd 7th kit that you should tear it out and switch, but if there are customers in the market they should know what they are getting and what other options there are so they can make an informed choice.

Yeah, most people buy the 7th injector because it's a fairly easy kit to install and you get all the parts needed. I've already decided against it and will be doing water/meth injection when I add a smaller pulley since I don't even have to bother with the ECU. Down the road I might even run a 2.1 or 2.0 pulley and upgrade the injectors and get the AEM FIC (I've looked at that same model and was much more impressed).