2.2 inch pulley Help!!!

[MTD]

Yeah, most people buy the 7th injector because it's a fairly easy kit to install and you get all the parts needed. I've already decided against it and will be doing water/meth injection when I add a smaller pulley since I don't even have to bother with the ECU. Down the road I might even run a 2.1 or 2.0 pulley and upgrade the injectors and get the AEM FIC (I've looked at that same model and was much more impressed).

You and I have similar plans of attack it seems. I am going to get the fic, then an AEM meth kit, and then pulley down, and possibly big injectors after that. If I don't go meth though I'm gonna go straight for big injectors I think. Idk I gotta get it tuned as is first to know anything.

 

[MTD]

Also from what I'm seeing in logging Afr at stock boost there is not any fueling problems on the top end. Its only part throtle boost I am seeing it go lean. This means that the closed loop maps are the culprit in my case..

 

[gamefreakgc]

Also from what I'm seeing in logging Afr at stock boost there is not any fueling problems on the top end. Its only part throtle boost I am seeing it go lean. This means that the closed loop maps are the culprit in my case..

I definitely fall off at high RPMs. No pinging but I feel it.

This is where water/meth systems shine - for those low RPMs. No need to mess with timing or closed/open loop and such, just have the pump turn on low at 1-2 PSI and you won't have to worry.

 

[A.Wilson013]

Alright, I'll stop being a lazy POS and offer some help.

Going to install R4 on my desktop and carry this beast out to the garage to pull my tune. Dyno tuned for 7th injector/2.2 pulley with a couple small changes for when not at WOT...

Now to find my R4 disc... And kick myself for not installing a disc drive on my HTPC... it's much easier to move around.

 

[shootmymime]

Send me the map from your 2.2 tune.

 

[A.Wilson013]

So pissed. Photographic proof that I carried all this stuff to the garage before realizing I loaned my serial cable to a friend over a year ago.

 

[A.Wilson013]

There was a disc in my glove box labeled "map"... I'll check that out.

And that oil is from my little pickup... Not the 4Runner

 

[shootmymime]

Go get one.

 

[A.Wilson013]

Go get one.

Trying this new thing called "not buying shit every day"... Sorry mate. And everyone else.

I'll try to link up with my buddy in the next couple of days and use his laptop/my cord...

 

[angus]

So does anyone have a spare pulley sitting around? I'm planning on making one in the machine shop because I'm a poor SOB who doesn't want to spend $90 on a piece of aluminum

Ahh to be young again...

I think that if you ask around - even "real" machinists would tell you that they would buy the $90 pulley instead of making one.

Even if you got the material free, the "learning curve" is steep.

After you make one, I'm sure you'll see that $90 is a STEAL.

Buy from atkins rotary.

 

[angus]

Also from what I'm seeing in logging Afr at stock boost there is not any fueling problems on the top end. Its only part throtle boost I am seeing it go lean. This means that the closed loop maps are the culprit in my case..

You're correct, the issue is that you will get pinging without pulling some timing.

Since you are running meth you will most likely get away with stock timing if you can fool the edu out of closed loop - the split second signal modifier will do that.

I find that I almost have too much fuel with the 7th kit - although it is giving me about 1psi more boost froth fuel going through the blower.

I may actually step down in 7th injector size to get more tuning resolution if I get picky but for now it runs fine.

 

[shootmymime]

Ahh to be young again...



I think that if you ask around - even "real" machinists would tell you that they would buy the $90 pulley instead of making one.



Even if you got the material free, the "learning curve" is steep.



After you make one, I'm sure you'll see that $90 is a STEAL.



Buy from atkins rotary.

I'm in college and have a full machine shop at my disposal. Manual and Cnc lathes as well as mills of both kinds. It would actually be pretty easy compared to some of the other project I've gone for school.

 

[MTD]

You're correct, the issue is that you will get pinging without pulling some timing.

Since you are running meth you will most likely get away with stock timing if you can fool the edu out of closed loop - the split second signal modifier will do that.

I find that I almost have too much fuel with the 7th kit - although it is giving me about 1psi more boost froth fuel going through the blower.

I may actually step down in 7th injector size to get more tuning resolution if I get picky but for now it runs fine.

Not on meth yet, I am gonna tune it with the FIC before I move to the more powa point lol. My whole point about that post tho was that the stock injectors CAN indeed keep up to the air the s/c puts out for at least a little while. So I'm gonna get a soild tune on stock injectors then move to meth.

 

[rarnett91]

Update

Just wanted to follow up in case anyone was following this thread.

Had some life stuff get in the way, but last week I finally got the 4runner fixed up. They did A LOT. I had the spark plugs, wires, and coils changed, new fuel filter (gadget recommended that), new air filter, 2 new knock sensors and harness, new timing belt, new thermostat, new water pump, and probably a couple other things I'm forgetting.
Just wanted to do as much preventative maintenance done as possible while it was all opened up.


So I drove it for a few days then brought it back to get a few Dyno runs in.

And that's where the problems came up. Turns out my car is running SUPER lean after about 3500 rpm, which is when the 7th should be kicking in to my understanding. They said my AFR went all the way up to 16.
I called Gadget at URD and he said it could be my fuel pressure, but I think it's more likely that my 7th injector has an issue.

So now I'm going to be trying to run down whether it's a wiring issue, whether the box is toast, or whether the injector isn't firing. If anyone has experience troubleshooting this and has tips let me know! Will update as soon as I can.

 

[shootmymime]

Just wanted to follow up in case anyone was following this thread.



Had some life stuff get in the way, but last week I finally got the 4runner fixed up. They did A LOT. I had the spark plugs, wires, and coils changed, new fuel filter (gadget recommended that), new air filter, 2 new knock sensors and harness, new timing belt, new thermostat, new water pump, and probably a couple other things I'm forgetting.

Just wanted to do as much preventative maintenance done as possible while it was all opened up.





So I drove it for a few days then brought it back to get a few Dyno runs in.



And that's where the problems came up. Turns out my car is running SUPER lean after about 3500 rpm, which is when the 7th should be kicking in to my understanding. They said my AFR went all the way up to 16.

I called Gadget at URD and he said it could be my fuel pressure, but I think it's more likely that my 7th injector has an issue.



So now I'm going to be trying to run down whether it's a wiring issue, whether the box is toast, or whether the injector isn't firing. If anyone has experience troubleshooting this and has tips let me know! Will update as soon as I can.

Do you have the r4 software to see if the injector is firing or where the program is reading rpm vs boost? My problem was my belt was slipping and not creating boost like it should.

 

[rarnett91]

Do you have the r4 software to see if the injector is firing or where the program is reading rpm vs boost? My problem was my belt was slipping and not creating boost like it should.

Interesting! So I do have the software and I've plugged into the unit only once before to reload the stock fuel map recently—for some reason there was this HUGe 25.5 value randomly on both maps. I have no idea why because according to URD the unit doesn't learn, and I've never messed with it ever so... either someone messed with it or the unit is faulty.

As for the belt, as the guys did the Dyno they checked visually for wobbling and slippage and didn't see any, however this could be a possibility for sure.

How do I check that on the software? When I plug in and rev the engine in park I do see the blue tick jumping around, but does that necessarily mean the injector is working, or that there's just power to the box?


Also, would slippage really cause that huge of an AFR problem? It seems like with slippage it would fluctuate more. On the graph it's a hugeee change with minimal fluctuation.

 

[shootmymime]

Interesting! So I do have the software and I've plugged into the unit only once before to reload the stock fuel map recently—for some reason there was this HUGe 25.5 value randomly on both maps. I have no idea why because according to URD the unit doesn't learn, and I've never messed with it ever so... either someone messed with it or the unit is faulty.

As for the belt, as the guys did the Dyno they checked visually for wobbling and slippage and didn't see any, however this could be a possibility for sure.

How do I check that on the software? When I plug in and rev the engine in park I do see the blue tick jumping around, but does that necessarily mean the injector is working, or that there's just power to the box?


Also, would slippage really cause that huge of an AFR problem? It seems like with slippage it would fluctuate more. On the graph it's a hugeee change with minimal fluctuation.

So what your looking for is while floored down the highway your watching that blue rectangle to see where it's at.

So it will turn the injector on for some amount of time (we know by lower afr) then suddenly the aft jump like It has turned off while you still have your foot in it?


Try that and let me know what the 7th injector is reading while your floored.

 

[rarnett91]

So what your looking for is while floored down the highway your watching that blue rectangle to see where it's at.

So it will turn the injector on for some amount of time (we know by lower afr) then suddenly the aft jump like It has turned off while you still have your foot in it?


Try that and let me know what the 7th injector is reading while your floored.

Well, I guess I know that the box has power at least because the blue tick does jump around while floored, but I'm just curious if it's firing at all. I know the box says it is, but maybe there's a connection issue of some kind? Is it possible for the unit to say it's firing but in reality it's not?

It just seems odd that at 3500 when it should be kicking in the AFR is terrible. To my understanding, the URD kit doesn't activate till 3000 or 3500 rpm right?

Also how can I tell besides visually if the belt is slipping?

Thanks for the help btw. I'm driving about an hour south tonight to my cousin's shop and he's going to help me diagnose it so this info you're giving me is very helpful.

I'm also attaching the dyno results just in case that helps. One is the normal printout and the other is the same results just with the AFR larger.

 

[shootmymime]

The bottom of the charts say that it's firing. The air fuel ratio looks good. Maybe rich around 3600 rpm it's down around 10. Why did you only rev it up to 3000-3600 rpm.

Do you not have an afr gauge mounted in the truck?

 

[rarnett91]

The bottom of the charts say that it's firing. The air fuel ratio looks good. Maybe rich around 3600 rpm it's down around 10. Why did you only rev it up to 3000-3600 rpm.

Do you not have an afr gauge mounted in the truck?

Well, the dyno guy said it started running lean so that's why he let off. I wasn't in the car and I was standing aside while he did all this. He said the AFR was at 16 so he let off the gas. He said that would be why my car has been surging at open throttle and higher rpms.

And no, I don't have an AFR gauge. The dude recommended an AEM one and a boost gauge and said I could do some tuning while driving around since that'd be cheaper than doing it on the dyno.