Waterman2112
Member
Spent this Saturday installing my new Sway-away rear springs and 5100s on my 2015 TE non KDSS - for the record there was a bit of finagling required to get the springs into position. How 2” or 3” springs get in there is beyond me, but they’re in.
I read in the forum to use a bottle jack to move the axle down, which I did but noticed a couple of the brackets and harness holders for the brake and wheel sensors were limiting movement… definitely did not like what I saw on the brake line thing, so I have attached a little file to illustrate. Recommend loosening the brackets shown in the picture to give safe rear articulation during install.
Generally I like the results – but the rake is back so when I do the UCAs next week (have the Camburgs with Moog BJs ready to go) I will have to raise the Boss units in the front by about an inch or so. Ride quality is improved with some stiffness but not overly so. She definitely takes harsh road surface irregularities better than before and the rear end holds better when cornering.
I read in the forum to use a bottle jack to move the axle down, which I did but noticed a couple of the brackets and harness holders for the brake and wheel sensors were limiting movement… definitely did not like what I saw on the brake line thing, so I have attached a little file to illustrate. Recommend loosening the brackets shown in the picture to give safe rear articulation during install.
Generally I like the results – but the rake is back so when I do the UCAs next week (have the Camburgs with Moog BJs ready to go) I will have to raise the Boss units in the front by about an inch or so. Ride quality is improved with some stiffness but not overly so. She definitely takes harsh road surface irregularities better than before and the rear end holds better when cornering.
