Thanks so much. You bet i will be hitting you up on this.
It's easy..the venting is the difficult part. If u need advice let me know.
It's easy..the venting is the difficult part. If u need advice let me know.
How does the aux tank get filled?
Haa I just put on the parts I tell them to get. I average it's a 13K Build.
No codes to date. I had to think for a few days on how to fit an aux tank and got the idea from my neighbors Jeep Wrangler. The Tank sits between the frame rails in the rear. I took some measurements and it looked very possible to give it a shot. I managed to source a used 87-95 Jeep Wrangler YJ 22 Gallon plastic fuel tank and stuffed it under the truck as a trial fit and I was confident it would work.Very nice build indeed. :first:
Well documented and photos are great.
Looks like you had a good grew working on this beast.
Conrats to all involved.
Can you post up how the Aux Tank has been fitted and functions from filling to refilling the main tank as this has been a subject here for some time on the forums.
No codes thrown with the Aux tank inline?
If you have any part numbers for tank items, measurements & diagrams for brackets, braces and skid plate used for the Aux Tank, that would be a great help!



Jeep YJ 20 Gal correct..I've seen it sold as 22 gal but most I've seen are 20 Gal..That is the 20 gallon tank, correct?
Yes it does. The platform behind the PS Pump was cut out and a hole made in the fender to fit the grommet mount of the Tacoma Bottle. Very easy install.Nice job! I've been planning the Expedition One washer bottle route but now seeing this, you need to tell me more. Does the Tacoma bottle not run through the fender?
It has a HD side step and its waiting on the ARB Snorkle for 5th Gen.Nice work, I may copy the fuel tank.
No plans for sliders or skids? Perhaps rocks aren't a concern for its environment.
I would have gone uniball on the UCAs. The Moog balljoints of late are mostly pretty terrible, and with the frequent service the Icon shocks will need, replacing uniballs regularly wouldn't be an issue.
The rear Suspension was set up for load carrying, great flex and a smooth ride. Icon progressive coils, Timbren bumps and the stock TRD Bilstein shocks were used.
Timbren bumps Icon progressive coils installed and coil bump trimmed. The rear suspension has gained up travel utilizing the full stroke of the Bilsteins. Flex numbers are great as the stuffed wheel has more up travel.
Rear sway bar was removed.
![]()
Thanks for sharing this. It's giving me some ideas for my rear end so I can keep TRD Pro shocks with a heavier rear bumper. Do you have the part # for those Icon coils?
I have those Arms on my truck and hammer the suspension pretty well. Uniballs in Guyana do not last. Within 3 months we have had to change them due to terrible squeaking and rattle noise!!. The dirt and mud takes a terrible toll on uniballs..Nice work, I may copy the fuel tank.
No plans for sliders or skids? Perhaps rocks aren't a concern for its environment.
I would have gone uniball on the UCAs. The Moog balljoints of late are mostly pretty terrible, and with the frequent service the Icon shocks will need, replacing uniballs regularly wouldn't be an issue.



The part number is on the coil, quoted in your post.Thanks for sharing this. It's giving me some ideas for my rear end so I can keep TRD Pro shocks with a heavier rear bumper. Do you have the part # for those Icon coils?
Have you tried the newer stainless uniballs? I was of the same negative opinion of uniballs based on past experience, but the new WSSXTs last at least twice as long as the 1" uniballs in the lower shock mounts.I have those Aums on my truck and hammer the suspension pretty well. Uniballs in Guyana do not last. Within 3 months we have had to change them due to terrible squeezing and noise!!. The dirt and mud takes a terrible toll on uniballs..
Frequently greased balljoints dont have any issues..
I use products and parts I believe in.