Saltshaker
New member
thanks! so, will mobil 1 synthetic gear lubricant 75w-90 work? thats what autozone told me to get.
thanks again!
thanks again!
30,000 mile maintenance help!
- Thread starter Saltshaker
- Start date
vicpick58
New member
I have not changed mine yet, but will soon. I get the impression that Genuine Toyota transfer Gear Lube LF, is NOT the same as a differential lube like synthetic 75w90.
Although when I asked for transfer case lube from a dealer parts dept a while back when I was getting some motor oil, they had no idea what I was talking about.
I will try another dealer to get the correct product for the transfer case. I am pretty sure it is a special lubricant designed just for this application.
Most transfer cases take ATF and that is a lot more thin than gear lube. My last Grand Cherokee took a special t/c fluid that was only available at the dealer.
Saltshaker
New member
Thanks, I don't know what to do. Toyota told me then75w90 is fine and I asked a few dealers...
vicpick58
New member
OK I am more confused than ever about what lubricant to use in the transfer case.
I went to the local dealer parts dept today and bought some motor oil and an air filter for my upcoming 20k service. While I was there I asked for some of the "Genuine Toyota Transfer Case oil LF", they have no idea what this product is.
The parts guy went over and asked one of the service techs what they use in the transfer case, and was told they use 80w90 gear oil in all the differentials and transfer cases, they buy it by the drum.
I have read the thread in this forum about drain and refill procedure for the diffs and t/c and it seems that everybody used 75w90 synthetic gear lube in the t/c.
That just does not seem right to me, however I have only ever had GM, Dodge and Jeep 4x4s in the past, never a Toyota.
Do you guys really use differential gear lube in the transfer case?
Note: When I ordered the diff lube from Amsoil, their website shows no equivalent product for the Toyota transfer case, but does recommend their 75w90 severe gear lube for the diffs.
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chetJ
New member
Just got a quote from my dealer and a trusted mechanic of mine for the 30000 mile service. Both came to $265 without the air cabin filter scam. Does that sound right for those of you who have gotten this done?
Also is a change of the front and rear differential oil and the transfer case oil required at this service? Do let me know what you guys think. Thanks.
Also is a change of the front and rear differential oil and the transfer case oil required at this service? Do let me know what you guys think. Thanks.
harper7
Senior Member
No front and rear diff oil changes are not required at the 30k mile check. Mine came with a maintenance guide book that tells you exactly what needs to be done and you should have one too.Just have to read it and it's not that big of a deal to do it yourself.
harper7
Senior Member
3OK mile check
Here's what needs to be done and feel free to ask any questions . The dealers do the very minimum that they can get away with and just have a check list with this stuff on it that the mechanic goes down and checks the box.They will charge extra to change more fluids if you tell them it is driven primarily under and want it inspected to the "special operating conditions" part
Here's what the 30k checklist will look like with only checks in boxes to say that it has been done.
Check installation of driver’s floor mat-takes 15 seconds
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels-takes 1 minute as they are in clear reservoirs
Lubricate propeller shaft-Drive shafts 6 zerk fittings total and 3 on each...maybe 5 minutes and that's if they even do it-How would you know?
Re-torque propeller shaft bolt- These are the drive shafts,2 minutes top as all they do is make sure they are real tight if they even do that.
Replace cabin air filter-22 seconds once you have the new $10 filter- I timed it!
Replace engine air filter- all of 2 minutes again once you have the new filter
Replace engine oil and oil filter-Would take the longest but they probably start that then while it's draining and go thru the easy parrest of the checklist
Rotate tires Maybe 15 minutes and I can do it in 10 in my garage with a floor jack if I tried.
The rest of these are just inspect only items and not replace which are just looked at to verify that nothing obvious is wrong or out of place.This is also where they can run you up a big bill with add ons.
Inspect the following:
__ Automatic transmission fluid None leaking on ground means good as there is no dipstick- I doubt if they even pull the fill plug to see if it's full and not dark or black-check
__ Ball joints and dust coversNo play in front (can easily feel when rotating tires)wheel and no torn boots means good-check
__ Brake lines and hoses None leaking or torn-check
__ Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs 4 More then 5mm pad left (again 3 seconds to look at when wheel is removed during tire rotation)I've never heard of these pads wearing out at 30k miles!-check
__ Drive shaft boots (4WD)- cv axle boots-not torn or leaking-check
__ Engine coolant look at reservoir and make sure it's not low or unusual color-check
__ Exhaust pipes and mountings not loose or falling off- check
__ Front differential oil (4WD) open fill plug(top one) and verify that it is full- it should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. I stick my pinky finger in the hole to feel for diff fluid and the can then see it and see how dark it is....btw -it stinks bad!Same with the transfer case and rear diff.-check
__ Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band
and fuel tank vapor vent system hosesMake sure no obvious leaks or nothing coming loose.-check
__ Fuel tank cap gasket Look inside cap to make sure the gasket isn't ripped or coming loose- You would have gotten CEL lights already if it was leaking-check
__ Radiator and condenser make sure nothing out of the ordinary like leaks,cut hoses ,leaves blocking the front or between them-check
__ Rear differential oil see front diff above-check
__ Steering gear box make sure nothing loose or obviously wrong-check
__ Steering linkage and boots No torn boots or plat in the tie rods(again would be felt when rotating tires)
__ Transfer case oil (4WD) see front diff above-check
Most dealership mechanics would have this done in an hour tops and get paid for 2-3 hours worth and how he makes extra money, thus the incentive to do it fast and who knows what stuff gets pencil whipped since this is a Toyota with only 30k miles. Not even broke in yet!
Nobody is going to maintain or care about your vehicle better then you yourself can.Most of them do the minimum that they can be held liable for or proven which isn't alot when it comes down to it. Most anything could have happened once you leave their garage. I know some live in apts,condos and such that make it hard to do so they have an excuse. All of the factory manuals we have here and people here to educate,answer questions and help is priceless.With well less then $100 in parts for a 30k mile check and from the money you saved would could buy the tools and have the peace of mind to know it's actually done.
Here's what needs to be done and feel free to ask any questions . The dealers do the very minimum that they can get away with and just have a check list with this stuff on it that the mechanic goes down and checks the box.They will charge extra to change more fluids if you tell them it is driven primarily under and want it inspected to the "special operating conditions" part
Here's what the 30k checklist will look like with only checks in boxes to say that it has been done.
Check installation of driver’s floor mat-takes 15 seconds
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels-takes 1 minute as they are in clear reservoirs
Lubricate propeller shaft-Drive shafts 6 zerk fittings total and 3 on each...maybe 5 minutes and that's if they even do it-How would you know?
Re-torque propeller shaft bolt- These are the drive shafts,2 minutes top as all they do is make sure they are real tight if they even do that.
Replace cabin air filter-22 seconds once you have the new $10 filter- I timed it!
Replace engine air filter- all of 2 minutes again once you have the new filter
Replace engine oil and oil filter-Would take the longest but they probably start that then while it's draining and go thru the easy parrest of the checklist
Rotate tires Maybe 15 minutes and I can do it in 10 in my garage with a floor jack if I tried.
The rest of these are just inspect only items and not replace which are just looked at to verify that nothing obvious is wrong or out of place.This is also where they can run you up a big bill with add ons.
Inspect the following:
__ Automatic transmission fluid None leaking on ground means good as there is no dipstick- I doubt if they even pull the fill plug to see if it's full and not dark or black-check
__ Ball joints and dust coversNo play in front (can easily feel when rotating tires)wheel and no torn boots means good-check
__ Brake lines and hoses None leaking or torn-check
__ Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs 4 More then 5mm pad left (again 3 seconds to look at when wheel is removed during tire rotation)I've never heard of these pads wearing out at 30k miles!-check
__ Drive shaft boots (4WD)- cv axle boots-not torn or leaking-check
__ Engine coolant look at reservoir and make sure it's not low or unusual color-check
__ Exhaust pipes and mountings not loose or falling off- check
__ Front differential oil (4WD) open fill plug(top one) and verify that it is full- it should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. I stick my pinky finger in the hole to feel for diff fluid and the can then see it and see how dark it is....btw -it stinks bad!Same with the transfer case and rear diff.-check
__ Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band
and fuel tank vapor vent system hosesMake sure no obvious leaks or nothing coming loose.-check
__ Fuel tank cap gasket Look inside cap to make sure the gasket isn't ripped or coming loose- You would have gotten CEL lights already if it was leaking-check
__ Radiator and condenser make sure nothing out of the ordinary like leaks,cut hoses ,leaves blocking the front or between them-check
__ Rear differential oil see front diff above-check
__ Steering gear box make sure nothing loose or obviously wrong-check
__ Steering linkage and boots No torn boots or plat in the tie rods(again would be felt when rotating tires)
__ Transfer case oil (4WD) see front diff above-check
Most dealership mechanics would have this done in an hour tops and get paid for 2-3 hours worth and how he makes extra money, thus the incentive to do it fast and who knows what stuff gets pencil whipped since this is a Toyota with only 30k miles. Not even broke in yet!
Nobody is going to maintain or care about your vehicle better then you yourself can.Most of them do the minimum that they can be held liable for or proven which isn't alot when it comes down to it. Most anything could have happened once you leave their garage. I know some live in apts,condos and such that make it hard to do so they have an excuse. All of the factory manuals we have here and people here to educate,answer questions and help is priceless.With well less then $100 in parts for a 30k mile check and from the money you saved would could buy the tools and have the peace of mind to know it's actually done.
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1engineer
Moderator
Very nice [MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION]! This should help many with your explanation alongside each item. I like that little maintenance guide.
vicpick58
New member
After this post was written I found the correct transfer case lube it is
P/N 08885-81080
Milesar
New member
Funny enough I am sitting at the dealer now getting my 30k service. I do have the "Plus" care thingy that covers Mx through 60k.
Just got the talk that my cabin and engine air filters need changing and it is not part of the recommended mx and so I would be charged.
Think I'll be taking a look at the Mx manual when I get my vehicle back.
Just got the talk that my cabin and engine air filters need changing and it is not part of the recommended mx and so I would be charged.
Think I'll be taking a look at the Mx manual when I get my vehicle back.
chetJ
New member
This may be a dumb question, so I apologize if it is. I know that i can get any service on my truck done at a shop of my choosing and this will not impact the warranty as long as I have the receipts. What happens to my warranty though if I choose to do some of the 30k service myself and some items that I do not feel competent enougj to do myself as yet, from the shop I trust?
I realize a DIY video is unnecessary for the cabin filter and engine air filter. However, if you have never done anything with your vehicle besides put gas in it, this is a good place to start breaking your fear. The videos show how easy it is to replace the cabin air filter and engine air filter. Both of these replacements can be done in less than five minutes combined. You should not be paying a shop to do either of these for you.
Cabin Air Filter
V6 Engine Air Filter
Cabin Air Filter
V6 Engine Air Filter
I started a thread concerning intervals folks were using in changing their differentials and T-case oils, but it didn't get very far. The 30K service interval that harper7 posted (and 1Engineer quoted in post #29 above) is pretty much replicated for the 60, 90 and 120K services. In each of these services, it just calls for inspecting these fluids, but never calls for replacement unless you are driving under severe conditions. Toyota recommends replacing these oils every 30K under severe conditions. This just doesn't seem logical (inspect, but no replacement recommendation for normal driving conditions).
An internet search found that Toyota evidently issued a TSB in 2008 that recommended using a 75W85 GL5 synthetic in the differentials; moving away from the previously used 75W90 weight. These fluids appear to be quite pricy. However, when I checked with my local dealer today, they indicated that they do not use the Toyota recommended 75w85 and 75W synthetic oils in the differentials and T-case (respectively). They use a 75W90 in all three units. Are the Toyota differential and T-case fluids have extended service lives, or did Toyota just overlook the recommended maintenance for normal driving conditions?
An internet search found that Toyota evidently issued a TSB in 2008 that recommended using a 75W85 GL5 synthetic in the differentials; moving away from the previously used 75W90 weight. These fluids appear to be quite pricy. However, when I checked with my local dealer today, they indicated that they do not use the Toyota recommended 75w85 and 75W synthetic oils in the differentials and T-case (respectively). They use a 75W90 in all three units. Are the Toyota differential and T-case fluids have extended service lives, or did Toyota just overlook the recommended maintenance for normal driving conditions?
MLA
New member
Grizz, these are great videos. I wish we had a sub section under the "Modifications, Write-Ups, FAQs" thread for simple how to videos like this. I really appreciate all the time some of the members take to post detailed write ups with photos, but sometimes a quick video is easier to follow. [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION], care to break out a go pro during your next oil change?
On a seperate note, the dealer down here quoted over $500 for the 30,000 routine maintenance. I thought that sounded like highway robbery. Are the dealers able to charge whatever they want, or is there some standard set by Toyota? I'm also curious: how much work is involved in "re-torquing the propeller shaft bolt and "lubricating the propeller shaft?"
