35's can't be impossible...

It can be done.. A true 35 is a little harder, but still possible if you know what you are doing and willing to do some thinking and cutting. It is not for most 5th gen owners.

I run 34.1 now. 35s are in the plans in the next set. But you should not even consider them without a re-gear to 4.56 or 4.88. Also if you are having trouble keeping up on the trails... Think about suspension travel and lockers before jumping straight to 35s. Tire size is a factor that cannot be ignored, but I think a 34 class tire is plenty and is well matched to the 5th gen. I can pretty much keep up with most JKs on 35s.. but 5th gens have their limits...

Some things to consider
- It's all about alignment. Getting the wheels as far forward as possible is key. So UCAs with adjust-ability play a big role.
- BMC is mandatory
- Wheel spacers make things much worse due to the increased scrub radius. Keep back spacing in 4.0 - 4.5 range
- A LCA that could move the lower ball joint forward would be great, but these are only available in LT setups (which will get super expensive fast)
- You will probably need to relocate the washer bottle
- a small body lift (1/2") will help and is easy
- if your truck is for trails (not high speed desert bumps...). don't be afraid to increase the bump stops to run a bit more tire.

Lifts don't really allow for bigger tires (unless you also limit up travel via bump stops...). Its one of the most misunderstood myths.. There are also bracket lifts that do allow for bigger tires, but I don't think you want that.

If you want the cheap route to 35s.
- BCM
- Small body lift
- Be ready to increase bump stops slightly and trim what hits
- Adjustable UCAs with heim joints. These should allow you to get the wheels more forward while maintianing reasonable camber. But you need someone who is willing to dial in the alignment and adjust the UCAs. LR UCAs might also do the trick (but I dont' really trust them myself)

Awesome, thank you!
 
RSG in Lakewood, CO is putting one on 40s here in a week or so.

also, [MENTION=101664]ma_mu_[/MENTION]tech seems to be some guy in asian on 37s and crawling it...
 
Are going to ditch the kdss? I'm curious how you will work around it if you go long travel.

If I go long travel, which I doubt because it doesn't seem to be necessary, I would probably have to ditch the KDSS. I'd like to avoid ditching it, but will if needed.
 
Thanks, that's good info. What offset would I need? Would spacers (I have the 1.25" Spidertrax spacers) on the stock wheels help or hurt?

You could potentially get funny tire wear with the stock rim width but with my SCS wheels with 4.3" backspacing, it kept my 285's from rubbing my spindle and I didn't need a BMC. The spidertrax spacers should space them further out than my wheels but you might just have to trim the body mount or bumper corners more in comparison.

There's a ton of variables that you can consider while planning to go 35's. When it comes down to actually making them work on our trucks, you just have to have faith in your trimming and the drive to get it done and make it work. It's not that difficult, you just have to commit to it while trying not to hack up your truck too much in the process. They will safely fit if you want them too, you'll just have to trim, wheel, trim some more, until you are happy. This is a journey you must take yourself. None of us can trim your truck for you. We can offer you pointers but in the end, there still might be unexpected issues.

A wise alien once said, "do, or do not, there is no try"
 
Thanks all for your helpful replies. I was really thinking it would be near impossible to put 35's on for less than 10k, but you have given me hope.
 
In the end, don't let this thread die. There have been good suggestions and a follow up would help others in the future.

The thing with modding vehicles...it seems people don't do it much when thing are new(er) and still making payments on....

Once the 5th gen can be bought in the 10-15k range, you see a lot more of this happening. Best of luck and keep it update/finalized.
 
Ask a question about suspension - get flamed. Seems to be SOP for 5thgen forum.



Want to efff around with light bulbs? We then we got thousands of threads and plenty of room for that.
 
RSG in Lakewood, CO is putting one on 40s here in a week or so.

also, [MENTION=101664]ma_mu_[/MENTION]tech seems to be some guy in asian on 37s and crawling it...

RSG is also doing a SAS, and spending big $$$$$ on it. Far more than a LT setup.
 
To be honest I think they aren't necessarily needed. I wheeled once stock and got hit by the mod bug. In a month I had KO2 285s, icon UCA and fox 2.5 w/res for wheeling. I went with the so cal group up white mountain which I think is a double black diamond trail. I was scared but a stock 4runner did it without getting stuck and just some nicks in a skid plate. After that I realized these rigs are capable by themselves. I noticed you have 3in lift and I recommend UCA with that. I am looking for armor and an ARB rear locker over bigger tires.
 
Wha?? Even my mom knows of lawndart and she drives a shitty impala. :help:

For real though. If you check out all his wallet inferno threads you will get an idea of what it takes and whether or not you want to spend super car cash on a 4Runner. lol

I didn't know of you, I saw your name in this thread saying you run 35's. And since someone mentioned you, I hoped you would see the thread and provide input as someone who has actually done what I want to do.

Now I can look into your build thread and hopefully learn a lot and I thank you for that information. There are some helpful people in this thread and, as usual, a few guys who have nothing to add but BS.
 
KDSS will not be your first limiting factor for 35's...as others have noted, there are a lot of other "parts" that will need to be dealt with first before KDSS starts restricting your travel. (edit...sorry misread your earlier post...nevermind I think you know this)
Anyhoo, I've seen Manstuh's rig as pretty much everyone has here in Denver. He has done it without LT, but he also has done a BMC, added front and rear high clearance bumpers, trimmed fenders for the bushwacker flares, and re-geared. Is it cheaper than a LT setup? Yes. Is it still close to 5 figures $$$? Yes.

I'm in the middle of changing up my suspension setup and adding some weight (roofrack, ladder, drawers, fridge)...all parts ordered, BMC done, wheels on the way too...but I am building for 305's. I've been where you're at (check my sig)...I built for 33's and it was great...wheeled it, no problems, no rubbing. Now, I just want something different, so I'm building for that...is it going to be that much more capable? probably not, but its what i want and I gets what I want! :)
 
Yes, KDSS will not limit you from running 35s. And you can have a very capable and versatile truck with KDSS and 35s. But you must re-gear to get it to work correctly with those tires. And while you are doing that, it would be a waste of labor not to add a front locker.

Also if you want to really step up the capability of the truck... I'm talking playing on extreme obstacles.... LT or SAS is the only way to go (everything else is childs play). You can still do plenty without it, but there will always be built rigs you won't have a chance of keeping up with. You just have to decide how far you want to take it.

I've got my rear LT and my front extended (the extended front just helps a little)... I've been considering just pulling the trigger and going all out LT. I've been within a phone call from going for a full 3.5" kit up front. But I come to my senses and decide to spend the money on a new front axle for my crawler.

In the end it just does not make a ton of sense to make a 5th gen that capable, because you will beat up the body using that capability. Now, using sound logic and modding cars/truck don't usually go together well. So yea, I'll probably eventually tear into my 5th gen LOL, but for now I think it is built to the point where the capability matches the limits of the body well.

Also, as far as this forum goes... We have a lot of people here who pay to get their trucks built. There is nothing wrong with that and I respect them as much as anyone else. But it makes the info here often result in bit of a pissing match vs actual tech talk. The other thing is a lot of people on here don't want to modify their trucks. Which is also fine and "smart", but its also boring. Finally, we have a ton of people who think there is some "magic" to picking that perfect tire... that gets great mpg and still performs amazing offroad. They believe in the gimmicks of things like crawl control... and quite frankly a Subaru would better meet their overall needs. This creates tons of noise and very little true tech talk about building for off-roading as a hobby...Then there is the overlanding lifestyle trend which is almost like fashion for off-roading. Bottom line, tons of diversity here. It's fine, but I wish we could have a off-road tech section so all the useful information would not quickly get buried. There have been tons of threads just like this one... They just get lost in the clutter of what light bulbs, wax, Light bars, RTT...
 
Last edited:
It would be worth a call to frontrange offroad if you're serious about this. I think they could build a custom set of a-arms like their front IFS they run on a 3rd gen. It's a 5th gen setup fit to a 3rd gen, but it bolts to the OEM locations and runs 37's without rubbing. It's a different animal for sure - but the rub points are basically the same. Plus their A-arms are designed a little differently in a way I like giving more clearance.

If it were me - I'd be ready to think about upgrading the rear axle to a 9.5 from a Land Cruiser. The 8.2 seems to be pretty durable. I'd run it until it fails, but recognize that you're asking a lot from a pretty small differential.

The other option is a solid axle. Around here shops will do a Tacoma swap to a Dana 44 front for about $6k. That leaves you $4k for rear suspension and a front locker. It would get you to 35's under $10k. I don't think a D44 is strong enough, but that's what a lot of tacoma mall crawlers run up front. It probably works okay if you're easy on it. Otherwise I'd want a D60 or custom LC80 front axle under there.
 
Also, as far as this forum goes... We have a lot of people here who pay to get their trucks built. There is nothing wrong with that and I respect them as much as anyone else. But it makes the info here often result in bit of a pissing match vs actual tech talk. The other thing is a lot of people on here don't want to modify their trucks. Which is also fine and "smart", but its also boring. Finally, we have a ton of people who think there is some "magic" to picking that perfect tire... that gets great mpg and still performs amazing offroad. They believe in the gimmicks of things like crawl control... and quite frankly a Subaru would better meet their overall needs. This creates tons of noise and very little true tech talk about building for off-roading as a hobby...Then there is the overlanding lifestyle trend which is almost like fashion for off-roading. Bottom line, tons of diversity here. It's fine, but I wish we could have a off-road tech section so all the useful information would not quickly get buried. There have been tons of threads just like this one... They just get lost in the clutter of what light bulbs, wax, Light bars, RTT...

I think a lot of the differences on this forum come from where we people came from as far as the "off-road" world...back when "overlanding" was called wheelin' and camping. True overlanding has been around a long time, don't get me wrong, but 20 years ago when I first started to build my Jeep, we just called it wheelin' in the U.S.!:) I think those of us that come from Jeeps, or solid axle trucks, were always taught rigs were built not bought...and we got flamed if we didn't do the work ourselves. That lead to a lot of trial and error, and some disastrous errors. I still like to wrench on my own rig, but have I paid someone else to do things cause I was too lazy and can afford it now? Of course! I like threads like this...I like to see who chimes in, and I too agree it would be great to have a tech section, but inevitably those posts will still end up in this section cause most forum members seem to read only here.

Anyways, back to the OP, keep reading, keep budgeting, and keep coming back here for more info. I learn something almost everyday here!
 
Last edited:
Thank you for posting! I have a 3" lift, stock TE wheels, and spidertrax spacers. It sounds like the only thing left to do is some cutting, is that right? Do you have any pictures of the cuts you had to make, specifically to the body mount? Thanks again for posting.



I think you will need a front bumper too. I don't think you could fit 315/70s on a stock bumper... I had to trim and whatever to fit 285/70s
 
It's possible, but it will never ever be perfect. The more money you throw at it the closer you get to not hearing the tire up against the body and having the ability to turn at full stuff.

K02s run small, so a 315 k02 is really like a 34x11.5

Basically you need to cut away most of the BM, and then cut out a significant portion of the firewall/wheel well and replate it, then run high clearance fenders or increase your bump stops, and most important - keep a spare steering rack and half shafts on hand for when you break either.

Or you can drop 8 grand on a long travel front suspension and be pretty much there.

If you're doing the work for 35s, you might as well do a little bit more for 37s

 
Last edited:
Okay, so I ordered a set of 35's, along with some needed items to clear them (more on that once I get everything installed)... but I want to re-gear. So my question is for you guys that have 35's, what gear ratio did you go with if/when you re-geared? 4.56's, 4.88's, other??? Thanks again for your help.
 
Okay, so I ordered a set of 35's, along with some needed items to clear them (more on that once I get everything installed)... but I want to re-gear. So my question is for you guys that have 35's, what gear ratio did you go with if/when you re-geared? 4.56's, 4.88's, other??? Thanks again for your help.

I was in the same boat as you as far as 4.56 vs 4.88. I ended up going with 4.56 as I wanted to keep it as driveable (somewhat low RPMS) as possible for DD duty which sees the rig sans swingout, roof rack, and camping gear.

I have 315's and a lot of weight when in trip mode and tow now that I have a trailer so that's where the 4.88 looked more tempting. in the end I was able to lug around the trailer and weight ok with the 3.73 so I figured the 4.56 would make it pretty well off.

I'm assuming your situation doesn't match mine so its kind of tough to give you advice but that was my take on it.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,071
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top