**35's on a 4th Gen - The Fitment Guide**

[Antono24]

Neither am I. 315s are shipping now, should go on next week with 2.5" of lift and no body lift. Buddy has identical wheel specs with 35s, test fitting this weekend if I have time

Glad to see you didn't listen to the nay-sayers on instagram.35s are the way to go.

I am ordering mine on black friday and will also not be running a bodylift. Gonna run bump stop spacers and new bump stops from plastic's guy and cut it till it fits. Thought about doing the 2in fender trim to make it look like glass fenders

 

[NinjaOne]

Glad to see you didn't listen to the nay-sayers on instagram.35s are the way to go.

I am ordering mine on black friday and will also not be running a bodylift. Gonna run bump stop spacers and new bump stops from plastic's guy and cut it till it fits. Thought about doing the 2in fender trim to make it look like glass fenders

Hahaha, I think I ordered before anyone actually responded lol

I'll likely doing that to the fender as well, should only need to take 1/2" off but will take a little more to make it look better

 

[Drunner97]

I don't know what you have for rear bump stops, but you will need bump stop spacers without a body lift.

My 1.5" BL is the exact amount to keep me from rubbing the top of my wheel wells. Any more wheel offset and I would rub too.

MT LT would make it easy to fit 35's in the back with their 3" spacers. Though with more droop on one side you might rub with the inside of your opposite tire due to the axle angle.

I'm running the 3" MT spacer right with wheeler's bumps right now, but I'll be cutting and adjusting as soon as I put the new shocks on to make them fit so I can get some up travel back.

 

[stuffinit]

lots of good info.
I'm building a daily driver, but imo the tires look too small on the big 4runner.
I'm planning to run some tall skinnyish tires, something like 34x10.5r17 (only tire on tirerack that size is bfg at at 328/tire lol) or more practically something in the 255/265 by 70-80 range.

probably on a 17x8 wheel with 4.5" backspacing.

For suspension my plan is for some 5100's on new moog fj coils. Hoping to just had 1/2 inch on lift in the rear and then level the front.

I'd definitely do the body mount chop and fold the pinch welds
plan on removing the mud flaps and the running boards. and i will bump stop before it hits the fender. Potentially even Air bumps. Besides some fender liner and plastic fascia trimming. what else am going to need to clearance? When any part of my suspension needs replacing I'll likely upgrade. so if control arms could be an issue will probably come soon enough.

What size tires do you think i could realistically fit with just a small lift/level and all the common "big tire" clearencing.

-stuffinit:zoom::moon: (ha)

 

[Inv4drZm]

lots of good info.
I'm building a daily driver, but imo the tires look too small on the big 4runner.
I'm planning to run some tall skinnyish tires, something like 34x10.5r17 (only tire on tirerack that size is bfg at at 328/tire lol) or more practically something in the 255/265 by 70-80 range.

probably on a 17x8 wheel with 4.5" backspacing.

For suspension my plan is for some 5100's on new moog fj coils. Hoping to just had 1/2 inch on lift in the rear and then level the front.

I'd definitely do the body mount chop and fold the pinch welds
plan on removing the mud flaps and the running boards. and i will bump stop before it hits the fender. Potentially even Air bumps. Besides some fender liner and plastic fascia trimming. what else am going to need to clearance? When any part of my suspension needs replacing I'll likely upgrade. so if control arms could be an issue will probably come soon enough.

What size tires do you think i could realistically fit with just a small lift/level and all the common "big tire" clearencing.

-stuffinit:zoom::moon: (ha)

You could easily do 285/70/17's if you are going to do all the clearancing. I had those with basically just a level kit on the front and it looked mean, check out the first handful of pages on my build thread, I have pics. The pizza cutters should fit about the same.

Also, mine's a daily driver and it has 35's and stock gears, no problems there. If you are going to be wheeling hard just get the 35's to begin with (or plan on them for your next set). If it's only a daily then sure, stay smaller.

 

[stuffinit]

You could easily do 285/70/17's if you are going to do all the clearancing. I had those with basically just a level kit on the front and it looked mean, check out the first handful of pages on my build thread, I have pics. The pizza cutters should fit about the same.

Also, mine's a daily driver and it has 35's and stock gears, no problems there. If you are going to be wheeling hard just get the 35's to begin with (or plan on them for your next set). If it's only a daily then sure, stay smaller.

Awesome. My thoughts are that a low amount of lift would mean the widest part of the tire would end up sitting right at the body mount area, effectively reducing the tire size capability. When lifted the upper third of the tire sits near the body mount. The upper 3rd is way narrower then the middle which is what allows for the bigger tires to be ran.

I'm hoping that by going with a narrower tire, I will be able to increase height capability by changing where the outside/inside arcs are. The narrower tire tucking in more before it hits the outer fender.

Now what are your opinions on wheels. If I'm going with a narrower tire, would the wheels need as much backspacing/negative offset? The further out I push the wheel the more the outside arc of the tire would stretch toward the fender/body mount.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Awesome. My thoughts are that a low amount of lift would mean the widest part of the tire would end up sitting right at the body mount area, effectively reducing the tire size capability. When lifted the upper third of the tire sits near the body mount. The upper 3rd is way narrower then the middle which is what allows for the bigger tires to be ran.

I'm hoping that by going with a narrower tire, I will be able to increase height capability by changing where the outside/inside arcs are. The narrower tire tucking in more before it hits the outer fender.

Now what are your opinions on wheels. If I'm going with a narrower tire, would the wheels need as much backspacing/negative offset? The further out I push the wheel the more the outside arc of the tire would stretch toward the fender/body mount.

Are you planning on flexing the suspension or is it strictly street use?

A suspension lift will only help clear tires on the street. When wheeling the tire will travel the same path and there will be situations where it is stuffed all the way in the wheel well and you will need to turn sharp. I could lower my truck (with 35's) right now until it was on its bumps and it wouldn't rub anywhere, and I haven't done that much trimming.

I was basing my advice from what you said; it sounded like you are willing to do all the clearancing that is necessary. In that case it doesn't really matter what tire/wheel setup you run; a 35" is doable if you wanted to make it work. Otherwise the pizza cutters are easier to fit, if you like the look.

Personally, if I am putting more aggressive wheels and tires on, I would make sure they poke out to at least the side of the vehicle if not a bit more. SCS wheels are about the perfect offset/backspace for this.

 

[NinjaOne]

Are you planning on flexing the suspension or is it strictly street use?

A suspension lift will only help clear tires on the street. When wheeling the tire will travel the same path and there will be situations where it is stuffed all the way in the wheel well and you will need to turn sharp. I could lower my truck (with 35's) right now until it was on its bumps and it wouldn't rub anywhere, and I haven't done that much trimming.

I was basing my advice from what you said; it sounded like you are willing to do all the clearancing that is necessary. In that case it doesn't really matter what tire/wheel setup you run; a 35" is doable if you wanted to make it work. Otherwise the pizza cutters are easier to fit, if you like the look.

Personally, if I am putting more aggressive wheels and tires on, I would make sure they poke out to at least the side of the vehicle if not a bit more. SCS wheels are about the perfect offset/backspace for this.

You run spacers up front with the SR8s? Rubbed the UCAs, frame and chopped body mount with the SR8s and 315s, just switched to the F5s with -38mm and now I rub the bumper and body. Should be fully cleared in the next couple weeks, just need to find a bigger hammer :hunter:

And yes, agree 100%

 

[Inv4drZm]

You run spacers up front with the SR8s? Rubbed the UCAs, frame and chopped body mount with the SR8s and 315s, just switched to the F5s with -38mm and now I rub the bumper and body. Should be fully cleared in the next couple weeks, just need to find a bigger hammer :hunter:

And yes, agree 100%

No spacers and no rubbing on the UCA. That seems odd to me, though I haven't looked to see how close mine is, Camburg UCA. Could it be an alignment issue?

Darn, so no more SR8's

 

[NinjaOne]

No spacers and no rubbing on the UCA. That seems odd to me, though I haven't looked to see how close mine is, Camburg UCA. Could it be an alignment issue?

Darn, so no more SR8's

All-Pro UCAs, ~+5-5.5° caster, ~2.5" lift

Clears the uniball/spindle area by a mile, rubbed on the tube portion towards the front of the vehicle at lock. The 17x9.5", -38mm F5s clears both the UCA and the shock resi's now, so just TLC with a hammer and the chopping bumper left to pretty much fully clear 100% of the suspension cycle front and rear.

My LCA's were replaced, I wonder if the replacements don't limit steering as far as stock? OEM replacement at a dealer, so it should be the identical and still had the Toyota part stickers on it

I'll post the final details RE: OP post once I finish clearing them, don't anticipate running a body lift or anything tho. Another alignment is next with TC cam tabs

 

[momo.75]

No spacers and no rubbing on the UCA. That seems odd to me, though I haven't looked to see how close mine is, Camburg UCA. Could it be an alignment issue?

Darn, so no more SR8's

Selling your SR8's?

 

[Inv4drZm]

Selling your SR8's?

Not me, [MENTION=119029]NinjaOne[/MENTION] might.

I'm just crying over his loss, I like those wheels.

 

[NinjaOne]

Selling your SR8's?

Not me, [MENTION=119029]NinjaOne[/MENTION] might.

I'm just crying over his loss, I like those wheels.

I do love how the SR8s look, especially with 35s


Only reason I got the F5s there was a set locally for cheap and a friend offered to buy my SR8s. Fixed my UCA rubbing which was the biggest reason I was considering switching, wasn't willing to cut the UCA :guitar2: Bonus is they are 2 lbs lighter than the SR8s and are still SCS wheels

 

[MrSeth]

Cool to see the 35 thread is still alive.

https://flic.kr/p/2bky9Tv

 

[ryanking61]

Tire Size: 35x12.50R17
Tire Make/Model: Goodyear MTR w/ Kevlar
Wheels: 17x9 - -12mm offset/ 4.5" backspacing
Bodylift: Roger Brown 1.5"
Suspension Lift: 3" Toytec Bilstein Coilovers with 620# Eibach Coils; 2" Toytec rear
Aftermarket UCAs: Total Chaos Uniballs
Caster: 3.0* but need more
Bumpers: Front Relentless Fabrication Summit Bumper
Trimming: Remove mud flaps front and rear, significant cutting to body mount, removed fender liners, hammered pinch welds, cut metal sub fenders near body mounts
Bumpstops: Toytec 2" Bumpstop drop rear, no bumps front
Notes: I do not have adjustable rear links, but under a mall crawling test flex the rear does not rub. However, we'll see how it does when I hit the trails in 3 weeks. The front rubs on the body mounts still at full lock, not sure how well it will stuff under compression. I definitely have more cutting to do but I'll know after this next trip.

Body mount cut up pretty well:



Pinch weld hammered:






Seems like some more grinding is required:



Stuffed:



And the final reveal:

 

[cloud]

Cool to see the 35 thread is still alive.

https://flic.kr/p/2bky9Tv

What snorkel is that? I'm taking the plunge Friday and getting 35s! Can't wait to chop the hell out of my truck


Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

 

[Drunner97]

You run spacers up front with the SR8s? Rubbed the UCAs, frame and chopped body mount with the SR8s and 315s, just switched to the F5s with -38mm and now I rub the bumper and body. Should be fully cleared in the next couple weeks, just need to find a bigger hammer :hunter:

And yes, agree 100%

Not me, [MENTION=119029]NinjaOne[/MENTION] might.

I'm just crying over his loss, I like those wheels.

I'm running SR8s with 315s and 1.25" spacers but I might be taking them off soon as I put the new shocks on. Only reason I was running spacers to begin with was because I was rubbing my Icon resi. The only thing I rub is the frame rail a hair and still slightly on the cab mount but that can be chopped more. I am running 16s though.

 

[ryanking61]

Body Mount Relocation

Has anyone looked into relocating the body mounts farther back? If you look back in my initial post, I'm still really close to the body mount at full lock. Any suggestions to fix this besides relocating?

 

[Drunner97]

Has anyone looked into relocating the body mounts farther back? If you look back in my initial post, I'm still really close to the body mount at full lock. Any suggestions to fix this besides relocating?

Keep cutting or get better castor. Shouldn't need to relocate unless you're planning on running 37s.

 

[MrSeth]

What snorkel is that? I'm taking the plunge Friday and getting 35s! Can't wait to chop the hell out of my truck


Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

It is a snorkel meant for a 1990-1997 80 series land cruiser, there was a bit of drilling and cutting to make it work, but it works great!

Chopping is nerve racking until you hit the trails and go home without plastic parts in the back of your 4Runner. Measure 5 times, cut short, test it and cut more if needed.

:girl: