3RZ Runners Only

My starter is on the fritz. Starts fine but the bearings are whining pretty bad. Gonna try to do this on Sat.

Rebuilt Denso from Amazon - no core return so you can keep the old one & rebuilt yourself.

http://www.amazon.com/Denso-280-017...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Here's a write up from TW on the starter removal. It's easy compared to the 5VZ.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...cking-starter-2-7-liter-3rz-fe-engine.178029/

I found this guy on E-Bay 100% positive & half the price of Amazon. I have the "All Weather Package" from the factory so I have to get the higher output starter.

Toyota Tacoma 2 7 95 09 4Runner 2 7L 96 00 T 100 2 7L 94 98 2KW Starter 17706 | eBay

PLEASE CONFIRM FROM THE COMPATABILITY DATA ABOVE THAT THIS IS THE CORRECT STARTER FOR YOUR VEHICLE.

THIS STARTER MOTOR IS FOR A 2.7L TOYOTA ENGINE

NOTE THIS STARTER IS A HIGHER OUTPUT DENSO 2.0KW STARTER, AND IS HIGHER OUTPUT THAN THE DENSO 22-17668 STARTER

IF IN DOUBT, OR IF YOU NEED ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL OUR TECH LINE AT 213-321-6964

This starter is remanufactured from an original DENSO starter core and meets or exceeds all the original specifications for the TOYOTA starter motor.

Note the following information regarding this starter motor:

THIS STARTER IS A DENSO OSGR SERIES, 2.0KW, 12 VOLT, CW ROTATION WITH A 9 TOOTH PINION.

This starter replaces the following part numbers:

DENSO 228000-2990, 228000-4090, 228000-4091, 228000-4092, 228000-4093

TOYOTA 28100-75120, 28100-75140, 28100-75140-84


WE ARE THE REMANUFACTURER OF THIS STARTER, AND THE ASSSEMBLY IS REMANUFACTURED IN OUR FACILITY. WE COMPLETELY DISASSEMBLE THE CORE ASSEMBLY, CHECK EACH COMPONENT TO OE SPECIFICATIONS, AND IF NOT TO THE OE SPECIFICATION, REPLACE 100%. THE STARTER IS THEN TESTED ON OUR DV COMPUTER TEST STANDS TO CONFIRM AND VERIFY IT MEETS ALL TOYOTA/DENSO SPECIFICATIONS.
 
So what exactly is a "3rd member"?? Because to be honest I really am no mechanic and it seems a little overwhelming to think about taking this on my self .. Even with a mechanically inclined friend. It is my DD. I do have access though to a lift I can use and would consider it if it's pretty straight forward.

3rd members are the entire rear differential assembly including the carrier, ring and pinion, lockers if you have one and the housing that bolts onto the rear axle.
 
Finally got the darn tool in for holding the crank still. Broke an adapter for my socket. Laid on some pb blaster for the night and I'm going to try again in the morning. I'm going to try and stay away from the starter bump but if that's what it takes then that's what it takes.

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All done....I think. I think I might have a leak off of the front of the oil pan in addition but I am going to watch it and see how bad it actually is. I think the worse of the two leaks has been taken care of. The oil pan cover is now totally dry. I did the oil pan once already to seal up a leak on the side. It looks like it has moved but from what I can see it is not a bad leak....just an annoying one. I am not dropping the front diff again unless I am forced to.
 
Hi Guys!

Last November I was very happy to pick up a 1996 Hilux Surf with the 3RZ-FE engine. Here in Europe we never got the Hilux Surf / 4Runner officially and therefore this is a Japanese import.

There are quite a few Hilux Surfs in the UK (where I am from), but almost all are 3.0 diesels and most of those have automatic transmissions (I already have a diesel Hilux pickup). Petrol- (gasoline) engined Surfs are pretty rare, and most of those are also automatics, and I personally hate automatic gearboxes. So I just jumped at the chance to get a manual (5 speed) Surf and pretty much bought it on sight, in the dark on a Sunday night in north Wales...

So what I got was a truck which seemed to have been neglected by the previous owner(s) and even overheated on the way home from buying it, as the last owner was too cheap to replace the radiator cap. On the plus side, I think it has never really been off-roaded.

The reason I wanted the truck is to build an expedition vehicle for a long overland trip across Russia in the depths of winter. I'll quite likely encounter temperatures below -50ºC and so a diesel is a no-go.

Anyhow, currently it is parked up in a rented garage in a town near where I live here in the Netherlands, and I'm doing a fairly comprehensive rebuild on it.

So far I've stripped all the front and rear suspension and will be replacing almost all of it. I've cleaned the rust up on the chassis (we have s*** weather here and salt) and just need to do a few spots of welding. The bodywork is pretty good, two little spots of welding needed on the rear arches but nothing cosmetic.

In terms of differences from a 4Runner, I have no EGR system (big smile), a swing-out spare wheel carrier, and a straight H-N-L transfer shift with push-button 2WD / 4WD. And it's right-hand drive of course.

Here she is parked outside my office in the Netherlands. After overheating on the way back from the seller, I swapped the radiator cap and thermostat back in the UK and it ran fine for 600 km all the way here (except for a leaking water pump):

DSC_0031a.jpg~original


A more recent picture:

DSC_0161_1.jpg~original
 
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Hi Guys!

Last November I was very happy to pick up a 1996 Hilux Surf with the 3RZ-FE engine. Here in Europe we never got the Hilux Surf / 4Runner officially and therefore this is a Japanese import.

There are quite a few Hilux Surfs in the UK (where I am from), but almost all are 3.0 diesels and most of those have automatic transmissions (I already have a diesel Hilux pickup). Petrol- (gasoline) engined Surfs are pretty rare, and most of those are also automatics, and I personally hate automatic gearboxes. So I just jumped at the chance to get a manual (5 speed) Surf and pretty much bought it on sight, in the dark on a Sunday night in north Wales...

So what I got was a truck which seemed to have been neglected by the previous owner(s) and even overheated on the way home from buying it, as the last owner was too cheap to replace the radiator cap. On the plus side, I think it has never really been off-roaded.

The reason I wanted the truck is to build an expedition vehicle for a long overland trip across Russia in the depths of winter. I'll quite likely encounter temperatures below -50ºC and so a diesel is a no-go.

Anyhow, currently it is parked up in a rented garage in a town near where I live here in the Netherlands, and I'm doing a fairly comprehensive rebuild on it.

So far I've stripped all the front and rear suspension and will be replacing almost all of it. I've cleaned the rust up on the chassis (we have s*** weather here and salt) and just need to do a few spots of welding. The bodywork is pretty good, two little spots of welding needed on the rear arches but nothing cosmetic.

In terms of differences from a 4Runner, I have no EGR system (big smile), a swing-out spare wheel carrier, and a straight H-N-L transfer shift with push-button 2WD / 4WD. And it's right-hand drive of course.

Here she is!

DSC_0161_1.jpg~original
Lol....so you thought
02894733681fdfebd08038e1a6695ef3.jpg~original


J/k I wish I wouldn't have had to build mine.....but it was fun. Gotta finish the ladder and rear bumper off. No time for fun.

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sorry for delay

So what exactly is a "3rd member"?? Because to be honest I really am no mechanic and it seems a little overwhelming to think about taking this on my self .. Even with a mechanically inclined friend. It is my DD. I do have access though to a lift I can use and would consider it if it's pretty straight forward.

Sorry, I haven't been on here much lately.
A complete 3rd member is the front (drive shaft side) half of the 'pumpkin' in your rear axle. It is held in place by 10 (I think) bolts, and houses your ring and pinion gears and a locker (if equipped).

I am no mechanic either, and it is super easy to swap. I did it by myself, with the help of a hydraulic floor jack, in an afternoon.

Let us know what you decide to do.

Regards

Durwin
 
Toytec Coilover Springrate for Stock 3rz

Is anyone running Toytec's 500LB coilovers (Ultimate or Boss) with a stock front bumper/no extra weight up front? How does it ride?

Toytec's website suggests the 500LB rate for 4 cyl models, but I would like a little firmer ride than stock so I'm thinking about the 550LB coilovers. I just don't want to go too stiff. I have no plans to add a front bumper due to power limitations of the engine.
 
Don't let the V6 guys fool you, your truck isn't that underpowered.

Really though, a front bumper isn't gonna slow you down a bit.

And I don't really have an answer for you, maybe call up toytec and see what they think, my Tundra coils felt OK with no front bumper for a few months, but I'm not too picky about ride quality.

wn4QPx1.jpg
 
So the 3RZ is rated at some 150 HP. That's way more than the 22R motor in my 85 Taco 4x4 and 5 HP more than the 350 V8 in my 1974 Chevrolet pickup. I towed big trailers with that one without issue. It's 4X what I had in my VW camper back in the day, and yet it feels like much less.

Part of the problem seems to be that it makes the 1-2 shift way too early unless I bury my foot in it - ECT button engaged and otherwise. Manually shift it and performance seems quite adequate. Wind it up and it runs great - pulls big hills in OD in ways my Taco never would.

Is this normal? I don't have any CEL codes or anything. State of tune is good, valve job recent, mileage combined in the low 20's.

Can the shift points be reprogrammed or do I just resign myself to driving it like a stolen car?
 
So the 3RZ is rated at some 150 HP. That's way more than the 22R motor in my 85 Taco 4x4 and 5 HP more than the 350 V8 in my 1974 Chevrolet pickup. I towed big trailers with that one without issue. It's 4X what I had in my VW camper back in the day, and yet it feels like much less.

Part of the problem seems to be that it makes the 1-2 shift way too early unless I bury my foot in it - ECT button engaged and otherwise. Manually shift it and performance seems quite adequate. Wind it up and it runs great - pulls big hills in OD in ways my Taco never would.

Is this normal? I don't have any CEL codes or anything. State of tune is good, valve job recent, mileage combined in the low 20's.

Can the shift points be reprogrammed or do I just resign myself to driving it like a stolen car?

The horrible automatic trans is to blame for the sluggish feeling, the Toyota 4 cylinders love to be wound out to 5K, and at most throttle positions the transmission likes to shift at about 3500, so you end up just barely touching the real powerband before it throws it into the next gear and puts you back at 2K where it feels sluggish.

I recently drove a 22RE with an auto behind it for the first time, and unless I manually shifted it or slammed my foot in it, it felt like I was barely moving. That was a real eye opener, having driven even a 22RE equipped 5 speed truck on 35's with 4.10's and it felt peppier.
 
I recently drove a 22RE with an auto behind it for the first time, and unless I manually shifted it or slammed my foot in it, it felt like I was barely moving. That was a real eye opener, having driven even a 22RE equipped 5 speed truck on 35's with 4.10's and it felt peppier.

Aye. My Taco had a 5 gear. Felt a lot peppier than my T4R even though it wouldn't pull Cajon Pass in anything over 3rd.

Never mind the VW bus. I didn't expect much and it delivered exactly that.
 
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@ UnderFire - that's a super rig well and truly done well. I like that bumper - would be outstanding for my rig here in Moz for the goats and donkeys and cattle that just appear.
I would suggest going with the rated coil-overs as suggested already - they will be a slightly stiffer ride than standard as they come.

We cannot buy the parts you guys get here - there is a local company that will supply stuff you can normally order on Amazon - the wheel spacers I would like listed on Amazon for 92.00 $USD equates to 350.00$USD through them. That's for 2 wheel spacers:mad:
Hate to know what they will quote for a bumper like that.

All the best,
Moz
 
@ UnderFire - that's a super rig well and truly done well. I like that bumper - would be outstanding for my rig here in Moz for the goats and donkeys and cattle that just appear.
I would suggest going with the rated coil-overs as suggested already - they will be a slightly stiffer ride than standard as they come.

We cannot buy the parts you guys get here - there is a local company that will supply stuff you can normally order on Amazon - the wheel spacers I would like listed on Amazon for 92.00 $USD equates to 350.00$USD through them. That's for 2 wheel spacers:mad:
Hate to know what they will quote for a bumper like that.

All the best,
Moz
I know there's a lot of the same stuff on ebay but probably equates out to the same thing. Shipping would be rhe expensive part.

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For sure - postage is the main issue.
I can afford to purchase the items it is just the cost of postage that blows it right out the water.
My old dear comes out for a visit every now and again from the UK, I will buy a few small bits one at a time and have them delivered to her and she can bring them out. I am a bit screwed though on big stuff.
LED dash lights will be about my most affordable mod at the moment.
Regards,
Moz
 

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