3VZE knock sensor
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TY4Runnin92
New member
Hi, I own a '92 4Runnner as well as a Repair Manual. Here is what I've found out:
It is located in the engine block OR in the cyl head.
You may need a special Toyota tool or equivalent socket to remove and install the knock sensor.
Here are the steps:
1) Drain Engine cooling system.
2) Remove air cleaner hose.
3) Remove timing belt cover.
4) Remove air intake connector.
5) Remove fuel pressure regulator.
6) Remove intake manifold.
7) Remove water bypass pipe.
8) Disconnect sensor wire.
9) Remove sensor wire with appropriate SST tool or equivalent.
10) Install sensor and tighten to 33 foot lbs.
From here on I'm hoping you can get there on your own. According to the diagram, it appears as though the knock sensor is in the manifold somewhere to the right (if you standing in front of the car). Good Luck, and if you need help just send me a PM or post and I might be able to send a picture of the page(s). Audios!
-Danny
*Note* The diagram is actually a pic of the 3vz-Fe. Now, they don't show the 3vz-E so I figured just how different could they possibly be?
It is located in the engine block OR in the cyl head.
You may need a special Toyota tool or equivalent socket to remove and install the knock sensor.
Here are the steps:
1) Drain Engine cooling system.
2) Remove air cleaner hose.
3) Remove timing belt cover.
4) Remove air intake connector.
5) Remove fuel pressure regulator.
6) Remove intake manifold.
7) Remove water bypass pipe.
8) Disconnect sensor wire.
9) Remove sensor wire with appropriate SST tool or equivalent.
10) Install sensor and tighten to 33 foot lbs.
From here on I'm hoping you can get there on your own. According to the diagram, it appears as though the knock sensor is in the manifold somewhere to the right (if you standing in front of the car). Good Luck, and if you need help just send me a PM or post and I might be able to send a picture of the page(s). Audios!
-Danny
*Note* The diagram is actually a pic of the 3vz-Fe. Now, they don't show the 3vz-E so I figured just how different could they possibly be?
Last edited:
Griffin1340
New member
So Face2six, was it the sensor itself or just a bed wire lead? I am in the process of doing the same thing myself, timing belt is new and installed and next on the adjenda is the int. man. Just looks to be a pain in the butt to get off.
Griffin1340
New member
Griffin1340 said:
So to answer my own question. Yup! a pain in the butt to fix a bad wire!
Why would a engineer put something so important in such a stupid place?
Well either way good for another 140k.
Soory for the late reply- glad you got the wire off with out busting the sensor
I broke the connector on the sensor while doing a top end rebuild ...WHAM $170
heres a tip from the peanut gallery:
for those who find them selves in the same situation you probably dont need to disconnect the wire from the sensor. Disconnect the other end of the wire from the where plugs into the wiring harness is a better option. The older the sensor the more brittle the plastic socket on it gets. You cant even breath on it without breaking it. so if you need to replace sensor itself or the wire connecting it, then BE SO CAREFUL. IF not just leave it alone. The Fuel manifold thingy will come right off with out messing with it. IIRC the wire sits in a slot on the head itself
And Yah, Dont get me wrong , I love my 4runner when it runs, but as soon as you have to do any thing under the hood I start hating it.
The antiknock sensor is just one of many examples of how poorly engineered this vehicle is. It s like a freakin rubix cube. Wait till you try do do something as simple as pullin a starter. Its a joke. Took me 2 hours just to figure out how I was going to get it out and another 2 hours to get it out. Just pulled one on a ford bronco - took 10 minutes.
If your like me and not really all that experienced of a toyota mechanic, and you need to work under the hood, best thing to do , assuming the guys down at the local toyota dealership are cool, is to go ask those guys. There are lots of tricks and shortcuts that can make life easier that neither Chiltons nor Haynes have an clue about.
I broke the connector on the sensor while doing a top end rebuild ...WHAM $170
heres a tip from the peanut gallery:
for those who find them selves in the same situation you probably dont need to disconnect the wire from the sensor. Disconnect the other end of the wire from the where plugs into the wiring harness is a better option. The older the sensor the more brittle the plastic socket on it gets. You cant even breath on it without breaking it. so if you need to replace sensor itself or the wire connecting it, then BE SO CAREFUL. IF not just leave it alone. The Fuel manifold thingy will come right off with out messing with it. IIRC the wire sits in a slot on the head itself
And Yah, Dont get me wrong , I love my 4runner when it runs, but as soon as you have to do any thing under the hood I start hating it.
The antiknock sensor is just one of many examples of how poorly engineered this vehicle is. It s like a freakin rubix cube. Wait till you try do do something as simple as pullin a starter. Its a joke. Took me 2 hours just to figure out how I was going to get it out and another 2 hours to get it out. Just pulled one on a ford bronco - took 10 minutes.
If your like me and not really all that experienced of a toyota mechanic, and you need to work under the hood, best thing to do , assuming the guys down at the local toyota dealership are cool, is to go ask those guys. There are lots of tricks and shortcuts that can make life easier that neither Chiltons nor Haynes have an clue about.
Griffin1340
New member
Heh Heh! Kinda funny you mentioned the starter! I learned 'the hard way of course' of how much of a PITA it was as well. On my 4R it was a loose starter lead that was causing the truck to not start. I pulled the starter thinking it was a dead spot in the starter that was the issue...and found the wire lead had rotted off. Simple 3 hour fix...Yeah right!
Yup, I think I had 3- 3/8" drive extensions 2- universal joints and a block of wood into the starter job by the time I quit cussing at it!:awais:
Well I'm a glutton for punishment...I own Harley's too!:biggrin2:
But by the time I had the knock sensor wire replaced it was soldered and butt crimped with a stainless steel wire, then heat shrink tubed, wrapped in a aircraft grade aluminum foil insulated shroud... Always said that if I had a race car shop it would be called "Overkill Inc!" :cursin:
Yup, I think I had 3- 3/8" drive extensions 2- universal joints and a block of wood into the starter job by the time I quit cussing at it!:awais:
Well I'm a glutton for punishment...I own Harley's too!:biggrin2:
But by the time I had the knock sensor wire replaced it was soldered and butt crimped with a stainless steel wire, then heat shrink tubed, wrapped in a aircraft grade aluminum foil insulated shroud... Always said that if I had a race car shop it would be called "Overkill Inc!" :cursin:
jazmynpuma
New member
Seems mine went bad too, but I am disabled, on a fixed income and unable to work on my own 4runner. Shop quoted $400, but said if I provided the part, $160 labor. I found the part on ebay for around $65. I just hope they don't break the thing putting it in. A friend normally works on it for me, but lacks the time nowdays. Mine is a 1992 SR5 4X4 that was very badly abused before I got scammed into buying it. However, so much time and effort has been put into it now.. that even when the Toyota Dealer advised me to take it to a junkyard, I simply didn't want to give up on it. I mean really.. at one time it was a nice vehicle, I guess. It tries hard to be reliable despite the terrible abuse it went though. Ever just feel so sorry for an old car that you end up making a hobby out of restoring it, even if its not a classic?