4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

[RandomGyro]

First piece of the puzzle received! Timely dispatch, excellent customer service, and great post-sale care from JBA. Thoroughly impressed with this packaging as well. (These are packed better than a certain electronics box store packs computers.)

Sorry for the low quality pic, I don’t “do” image hosting. (High quality wouldn’t do them justice anyway, haha.)

 

[69FIVEspeed]

I ended up doing the covid rancho quick lift and sway away rear coils-Bilstein not in stock, lift. front is a little soft but makes it dramatic when gas is ON!

 

[4wordSOUL]

Science not marketing bu11sh*t

Many aftermarket suspension vendors come up with clever terms like BOSS or ULTIMATE indicating the 'measurable' amount of performance their obfuscated marketing-speak tells you about what to expect from their products. Free your mind with Science and don't toy around with thoughts & prayers.

Toyota Long Travel IFS - Camburg vs Dirt King - YouTube

Suspension Construction and Limits | Everything About Toyota IFS Part 1 - YouTube

4 Common Myths About IFS Lifts | Everything About Toyota IFS Part 2 - YouTube

KDSS vs Swaybar Ultimate Test - YouTube

 

[rhoyneriver]

Hey all, I know this question has been asked a hundred times in this thread but I wanted to get some more current opinions now that people have a lot more experience with the various options.

I'm a stock 4Runner with larger tires on 17" rims. My car has XREAS and it's only got 80k miles, so in my opinion the ride is very comfortable. However, the tires do rub at full clock when I'm in parking lots etc. and since my wife has been driving the 4Runner more especially during inclement weather, I think it's finally time I address that with a new suspension or just doing a leveling kit.

I live in Kansas so the only times i'm on rough roads is when I make trips down to Arkansas (maybe once a year) and I don't really seek out mud/off-roading much. I wouldn't mind spending the cash on a quality setup, however I am not sure it's necessary especially since my factory ride still feels nice and not worn out. Should I just buy a 2.5/1.5" leveling kit and call it a day? I could also get by with just a 1" front leveling kit but I kind of want to get at least an inch lift in the rear.

Picture of the rig as it stands now:

 

[Blute]

Hey all, I know this question has been asked a hundred times in this thread but I wanted to get some more current opinions now that people have a lot more experience with the various options.

I'm a stock 4Runner with larger tires on 17" rims. My car has XREAS and it's only got 80k miles, so in my opinion the ride is very comfortable. However, the tires do rub at full clock when I'm in parking lots etc. and since my wife has been driving the 4Runner more especially during inclement weather, I think it's finally time I address that with a new suspension or just doing a leveling kit.

I live in Kansas so the only times i'm on rough roads is when I make trips down to Arkansas (maybe once a year) and I don't really seek out mud/off-roading much. I wouldn't mind spending the cash on a quality setup, however I am not sure it's necessary especially since my factory ride still feels nice and not worn out. Should I just buy a 2.5/1.5" leveling kit and call it a day? I could also get by with just a 1" front leveling kit but I kind of want to get at least an inch lift in the rear.

Picture of the rig as it stands now:

Wow that's some low miles and a nice rig.

Not sure I have any new info, but you could easily do a budget lift like the Daystar 2.5/1.5, or even do the Daystar budget booster in the front (they market it as a 1" booster because that's the thickness of the spacer, but it gives you 2") and then add a 1" spacer in the rear which is what I did after buying our vehicle several years ago. I got a 1" cornfed spacer for the rear.

Your boots on your CV axles may leak a little grease after the lift, but you can add some metal bands to take care of that. Plenty info in the forum.

 

[rhoyneriver]

Wow that's some low miles and a nice rig.

Not sure I have any new info, but you could easily do a budget lift like the Daystar 2.5/1.5, or even do the Daystar budget booster in the front (they market it as a 1" booster because that's the thickness of the spacer, but it gives you 2") and then add a 1" spacer in the rear which is what I did after buying our vehicle several years ago. I got a 1" cornfed spacer for the rear.

Your boots on your CV axles may leak a little grease after the lift, but you can add some metal bands to take care of that. Plenty info in the forum.

So I have reservations about going this route. I'll be paying a shop to install them and since I have XREAS, I'm seeing around $400-600 in labor and that's not counting the parts. At that point, I figure I may as well just buy 5100s all around and delete the XREAS. It wouldn't be that much more overall.

But, I'm not sure it would even improve ride quality? At the least it would give me a lift/level. I'd probably do OME springs while I'm at it.

 

[RandomGyro]

So I have reservations about going this route. I'll be paying a shop to install them and since I have XREAS, I'm seeing around $400-600 in labor and that's not counting the parts. At that point, I figure I may as well just buy 5100s all around and delete the XREAS. It wouldn't be that much more overall.

But, I'm not sure it would even improve ride quality? At the least it would give me a lift/level. I'd probably do OME springs while I'm at it.

The general rule of thumb that I was taught was: “If it rubs at stock, it’s still going to rub lifted.” Obviously this doesn’t apply to ALL lifts, wheel combos, spacers, etc…

I recently deleted my XREAS system and subbed in the Eibach Pro Truck Lift kit, and absolutely love it. You and I have a bit of a mileage disparity though, as my ‘06 is at 242,000+ So the ride quality was night and day as my XREAS was mostly shot. New ride is much stiffer, (supportive) very noticeable when cornering, but in a very, very good way. (It also eats bumps/holes with little to no transfer; even with my coilovers maxed out.)

Pending your wheels and their offset; you could consider a wheel spacer kit from SpiderTrax to help eliminate that rubbing at steering lock. I used JBA High Caster UCA’s with my lift, and retained OEM wheels; so spacers were mandatory for me without going to a different wheel. (Next year, maybe.)

Utilizing the +30mm offset OEM wheels, and a 275/70R17 tire, I was rubbing my UCA’s passed 180° wheel input. Now, with the spacers; the only rubbing I have is on my right side mud guard, because I binned this vehicle previously and reused the damaged liner affecting how the guard sits in the wheel well. (It’s a bit “bent” lol.)

I don’t do any major wheeling, I live in the flatland of Texas. I wanted a little extra ground clearance, aesthetic lift, and better off-road capability for when I do take it out hunting, shooting, camping, etc. My truck is RWD after-all…

Heavily edited photo attached before spacers were added.

 

[808toy]

Billstein Question

Aloha braddahs! I have a 08 4runner sport that I just grabbed. I don’t have a ton of money to spend, so I grabbed 5100s for all 4 corners. I want to throw on some 275s. Should I go 2.5 up front? I also have a 1 inch spacer for the back. Will this work or will there be reverse rake? Thank you.

 

[Blute]

Eibach Pro-Truck/Wheeler's T1/T12 lift installed

New lift installed! Tore out the XREAS and the old 2/1 spacer lift and replaced it with Eibach Pro-Truck shocks and Wheeler's T1/T12 coils. I had Wheeler's pre-assemble the front coilovers (bottom perch); their price for the assembled Eibach shocks with the T1 coils was a great deal and made the install much simpler. I also added a 1/4" topout spacer to the front left. Also went with a new pair of JBA UCAs, and new Mevotech sway bar end links front and rear (2nd Gen links for the rear).

I ended up with the following hub-fender measurements after a couple weeks of driving:
FL: 22 5/8” FR: 22 3/4"
RL: 23 3/4" RR: 24”

That's a good amount of rake in my opinion, with about 1 1/8" on the left and 1 1/4" on the right.

The only significant issue I ran into was the alignment bolts on the LCAs were all seized, so they wouldn't loosen during the install. I had to pry down on the LCAs just a bit to get the lower shock mount in. But when I took it for alignment, the shop was able to nudge the bolts just enough to get it within specs and about 3° of caster. I thought about replacing the LCAs now but I think I'm going to let it ride for awhile and worry about that later - they seem fine as well as the ball joints are ok and there is only just over 125k miles on the rig.

Anyway, it looks and rides great. And as always, I was able to get tons of good info on this forum!

 

[RandomGyro]

New lift installed! Tore out the XREAS and the old 2/1 spacer lift and replaced it with Eibach Pro-Truck shocks and Wheeler's T1/T12 coils. I had Wheeler's pre-assemble the front coilovers (bottom perch); their price for the assembled Eibach shocks with the T1 coils was a great deal and made the install much simpler. I also added a 1/4" topout spacer to the front left. Also went with a new pair of JBA UCAs, and new Mevotech sway bar end links front and rear (2nd Gen links for the rear).

I ended up with the following hub-fender measurements after a couple weeks of driving:
FL: 22 5/8” FR: 22 3/4"
RL: 23 3/4" RR: 24”

That's a good amount of rake in my opinion, with about 1 1/8" on the left and 1 1/4" on the right.

The only significant issue I ran into was the alignment bolts on the LCAs were all seized, so they wouldn't loosen during the install. I had to pry down on the LCAs just a bit to get the lower shock mount in. But when I took it for alignment, the shop was able to nudge the bolts just enough to get it within specs and about 3° of caster. I thought about replacing the LCAs now but I think I'm going to let it ride for awhile and worry about that later - they seem fine as well as the ball joints are ok and there is only just over 125k miles on the rig.

Anyway, it looks and rides great. And as always, I was able to get tons of good info on this forum!

Looks awesome!! How are you digging the nee ride?! Night and day difference for me versus the XREAS.

Any rubbing with the stock wheels/tires?

 

[Blute]

Looks awesome!! How are you digging the nee ride?! Night and day difference for me versus the XREAS.

Any rubbing with the stock wheels/tires?

Yep, ride is great. No rubbing, either.

I did have one issue after the install, I was getting an occasional creak/pop noise when turning at full lock. Did a little research, and turns out it was the steering stops grinding against each other. I guess with the lift they were hitting at a different angle, and would slip and make that noise. I put some grease on the stops and the noise is gone.

 

[tylrdvs277]

Thanks for the info! Going with a Dobinsons 2.5 inch so this will help with tires

 

[originalg00kster]

No problem. I liked the 6112s for the 2.5 diameter body but didn't realize the lift height was as aggressive as i wanted for my V8. Just didn't want you remove/reassemble to adjust height since it takes about an hour to adjust clips. Didn't want you to go through the pain I went thru.

Maybe the 650lbs springs may raise your V6 similar to the OMEs but I really don't know. Now I have an extra set of 600lbs springs in the garage after replacement.

Mike

haha fuhh, I just installed the 6112/5160's yesterday and I think its sitting lower than how I had it. I have it on the 4th clip. hahaha fml

 

[Chukardog]

Do I need new coils with Bilstein 2.5 lift?

Howdy-

Please excuse the newb question. I want to lift my 2008 4thgen 4wd V6 4.0 so I stop pounding the bottom of the vehicle when I'm hunting backroads.

I got Bilstein 5100s for front and back. I want the vehicle lifted to 2.5 with slight forward rake.

QUESTION-- DO I NEED NEW COILS? If yes, both front and back?

BTW I bought a full coverage skid plate from RCI to help protect the underside.

THANKS IN ADVANCE!

 

[Bluesky 07]

Howdy-

Please excuse the newb question. I want to lift my 2008 4thgen 4wd V6 4.0 so I stop pounding the bottom of the vehicle when I'm hunting backroads.

I got Bilstein 5100s for front and back. I want the vehicle lifted to 2.5 with slight forward rake.

QUESTION-- DO I NEED NEW COILS? If yes, both front and back?

BTW I bought a full coverage skid plate from RCI to help protect the underside.

THANKS IN ADVANCE!

IMO, yes and yes, and not just to get the height you want. This is my post from the previous page:
-----
General observation about original springs: replace them when you do your shocks. People often think the shocks make the ride, but as Motor Trend explains:
==
The springs are the foundation of a suspension system. They are what allow the up and down movement of the wheels with minimal impact on the chassis and the rest of the vehicle. The primary job of springs, though, is to hold up the weight the vehicle and its cargo.
==
The "youngest" 4th Gen (2009) is now 13 years old and an average one is likely at 150K or more. That means the typical 4th Gen's original springs have been carrying a 4,500 lb. SUV for well over a decade and the equivalent of 6+ times around the world. When I did my suspension, I knew I'd always wonder how different/better the ride would have been if I didn't do the springs. They're not that costly either so IMO, running new shocks with original springs doesn't make sense.
-----

Plus you're adding more weight with the full skids. Your truck and your $ but that's my 2 cents.

 

[Chukardog]

Hmmm that sounds like very sound advice Bluesky! I'll go for new springs. Any advice on the height or brand?

 

[gloch]

Any recommendations on a 5100 setup with new coils preassembled? Just looking to lift the front 2.5" and the rear an inch to put 275s on.

-gl

 

[Bluesky 07]

Hmmm that sounds like very sound advice Bluesky! I'll go for new springs. Any advice on the height or brand?

Thanks, I appreciate that.

I only have experience with my setup. Front: shocks/coils taken off a 2020 Tacoma TRD Offroad; rear: coils from a 2007 FJ Cruiser with Bilstein 4600 shocks. Rides and drives great on and off the pavement and the stance is about what you're looking for. I will say I'm considering the Eibach kit when my current gear hits end of life.

Forum note, to ensure another member sees something you want them to, you can do @ with their exact user name ( [MENTION=707000]Chukardog[/MENTION] for example) and they'll get a notification. That way they're see your post for sure.

 

[kingnba6]

I did the daystar lift without replacing the rear springs but i did replace all the struts and front coils and the truck is squatting in the rear. So I would suggest replacing rear springs too.

 

[AuSeeker]

Thanks, I appreciate that.

I only have experience with my setup. Front: shocks/coils taken off a 2020 Tacoma TRD Offroad; rear: coils from a 2007 FJ Cruiser with Bilstein 4600 shocks. Rides and drives great on and off the pavement and the stance is about what you're looking for. I will say I'm considering the Eibach kit when my current gear hits end of life.

Forum note, to ensure another member sees something you want them to, you can do @ with their exact user name [MENTION=707000]Chukardog[/MENTION] for example) and they'll get a notification. That way they're see your post for sure.

Just an FYI when "mentioning" someone you need to also make sure that no other letters, symbols, etc. touches any part of the mention, i.e. there needs to be a space before the @ and after the exact username, but no space between them if you do it correctly the username will be underlined after submitting your post and you can click on the mention and it will take you to the member you mentioned profile page, if none of that is there or works you haven't mentioned someone properly.

[MENTION=707000]Chukardog[/MENTION] and [MENTION=114846]Bluesky 07[/MENTION] in Bluesky post he has the parenthesis touching the @ symbol, I removed that parenthesis in the quote and now it is a mentioning but only in the quote.