4th Gen Warped Rotors
- Thread starter NCSCOTT
- Start date
Mashimaru
New member
i'm another who had front/rear rotors warped.. Red Mcombs Toyota here in S.A. were happy enough to resurface them for me at my 25k service along with new front/rear pads.. nearing my 30k i seem to have that warped feeling again in breaking... ( kinda of like a nudging back and forth feel).. i'm heading into my 30k service soon and wondering if i could ask for replacements rather than another go at cutting the rotors.. wonder if they would do it..
any suggestions would be appreciated, Thanks
any suggestions would be appreciated, Thanks
NCSCOTT
New member
Mashimaru said:i'm another who had front/rear rotors warped.. Red Mcombs Toyota here in S.A. were happy enough to resurface them for me at my 25k service along with new front/rear pads.. nearing my 30k i seem to have that warped feeling again in breaking... ( kinda of like a nudging back and forth feel).. i'm heading into my 30k service soon and wondering if i could ask for replacements rather than another go at cutting the rotors.. wonder if they would do it..
any suggestions would be appreciated, Thanks
Well, I started this thread because I thought mine were warped. 14500 miles later (43.5K Now) they have not gotten any worse. I feel it intermittently. It is very a slight amount of surge. This is completely different than any other vehicle I have had that warped the rotors. They all got progressively worse as time went on. Anyway.
If they have already turned the rotors once I go back to my original statement. If you turn your rotors they will just warp again twice as quick the next time since they have less metal to get rid of the heat that builds in the rotors every time you stop.
I would ask them to replace the Front rotors. The pads may be fine. The fronts are more than likely the problem.
Make sure you read the threads on the 30k service. Don't let the dealer talk you into unnecessary services like Brake fluid flush, fuel injector service, transmission service, (unless you tow often), and collant flush. All of these are just Stealer money makers and are completely unnecessary on a 30k mile vehicle.
Spark plug replacement is required with the V-6 not the V-8. The Cabin air filter and engine air filter are very easy to change also. Both filters and plugs should take the average person a hour to a hour and a half and save you alot of money.
Don't let them talk you into anything else without researching it here.
Good luck,
NCSCOTT
Front Brakes..Looking for Answers
I have an '03 SR5 V8 with 27,500 miles that mostly sees around town driving. Around 21000 miles, the front brakes started to squeak and the brake pedal pulsed. I had new ceramic pads and aftermarket rotors put on. Immediately after, I would feel the vehicle surging, or limping to a stop, and the pedal still pusled. It got worse and after reading a lot of the posts in this forum about problems with aftermarket parts, I had my mechanic put Toyota rotors on the truck. I kept the ceramic pads on.
The aftermarket rotors had warped and had a runout of .022. The new OEM rotors have improved the situation, but I still experience the surging/pusling, especially when the truck has been driven for a period and is warmed up. This is especially true when braking on an off-ramp coming off the expressway. The surging is completely absent when the truck is cold like first thing in the morning.
The vehicle rides out straight and true without a hint of vibration at all speeds. It's only when I press the brake pedal that I feel the surging/pedal pusle.
Anyone have any ideas what I may be missing? My mechanic did a runout check on the front wheel hubs and one measured .002 and the other at .004. That doesn't sound very significant, does it?
Thanks for your help.
I have an '03 SR5 V8 with 27,500 miles that mostly sees around town driving. Around 21000 miles, the front brakes started to squeak and the brake pedal pulsed. I had new ceramic pads and aftermarket rotors put on. Immediately after, I would feel the vehicle surging, or limping to a stop, and the pedal still pusled. It got worse and after reading a lot of the posts in this forum about problems with aftermarket parts, I had my mechanic put Toyota rotors on the truck. I kept the ceramic pads on.
The aftermarket rotors had warped and had a runout of .022. The new OEM rotors have improved the situation, but I still experience the surging/pusling, especially when the truck has been driven for a period and is warmed up. This is especially true when braking on an off-ramp coming off the expressway. The surging is completely absent when the truck is cold like first thing in the morning.
The vehicle rides out straight and true without a hint of vibration at all speeds. It's only when I press the brake pedal that I feel the surging/pedal pusle.
Anyone have any ideas what I may be missing? My mechanic did a runout check on the front wheel hubs and one measured .002 and the other at .004. That doesn't sound very significant, does it?
Thanks for your help.
Can some of the residual brake pulsation come from a front end that's not alligned correctly?
Just curious because I believe my right front is toed out just a smidge, but the truck still runs down the highway straight.
I rotated my tires last week and i noticed the outer side of the front right pad was wearing a little bit more than the inside. I still have a lot of pad material left, and will be swaping out the rotors when I do my front breaks, in another 10K miles.
I guess it wouldnt be a bad idea to get an alignment done at the same time.
Anyone know of a good shop (with good service, good price, and great quality) that does alignments, that isn't the dealer?
Just curious because I believe my right front is toed out just a smidge, but the truck still runs down the highway straight.
I rotated my tires last week and i noticed the outer side of the front right pad was wearing a little bit more than the inside. I still have a lot of pad material left, and will be swaping out the rotors when I do my front breaks, in another 10K miles.
I guess it wouldnt be a bad idea to get an alignment done at the same time.
Anyone know of a good shop (with good service, good price, and great quality) that does alignments, that isn't the dealer?
greasefingers
New member
No bad alignment will usually not affect the braking. Pulsation is always a brake issue.
Every vehicle that I have owned, the outside edge of the tire wears faster than the rest of the area. And for some reason it is always the passenger tire that suffers the most from this. It is usually too much toe-in; and causes the tire to scrub on the outer edge.
Every vehicle that I have owned, the outside edge of the tire wears faster than the rest of the area. And for some reason it is always the passenger tire that suffers the most from this. It is usually too much toe-in; and causes the tire to scrub on the outer edge.
starflt said:
Are you sure it isn't just the transmission downshifting while you're slowing down?? Try to rule everything possible out... Shift to neutral as you're coming to a stop when the vehicle is warmed up. If it doesn't do it, then you're not paying attention to what the vehicle is doing; it's probably just downshifting through the gears as you slow down. My 4Runner does this and if you pay attention to the tach, you'll see it jump a couple hundred RPM each time it drops another gear.
Ricky
RickyCRX said:
It's not the tranny. In an effort to rule out other causes, as you say, I have brought the vehicle to a stop in neutral. Same thing. Also, when braking, if I take my foot off the brake pedal, the surging stops. Additionally, I have used only the emergency brakes to rule out the rears. No pulse or surging when I have done this, so I assume it is the fronts.
IIRC, the rear 'parking brake' uses a drum inside the rear rotors to stop the vehicle. In this case, you are not using the rear discs to stop the vehicle if you used that as a test.
You said you put new pads and rotors on the front and the problem is still there? I'd try turning the rear rotors to see if that helps.
Ricky
You said you put new pads and rotors on the front and the problem is still there? I'd try turning the rear rotors to see if that helps.
Ricky
Koz said:
So, if I understand correctly, the emergency brake doesn't use the rear pads/rotors? If that's the case, it could be the rears. And yes, after replacing the pads/rotors the first time there was still a slight pulse, about like there is now with the same pads, but new OEM rotors. I guess the first thing to check woudl be the runout on the rear rotors. I'll check that and let you all know.
I'm still curious why this condition would be completely absent when the truck is cold. Any thoughts on that?
Could bad tires (Dunlop) contribute to rotor warpage?
I'm experiencing what seems like rotor warpage but it's intermittent. On rougher roads it seems like I can feel the 'bumps' through the brake pedal.
I've also had the steering wheel vibration when the truck was new but it is very slight now.
Any thoughts?
I'm experiencing what seems like rotor warpage but it's intermittent. On rougher roads it seems like I can feel the 'bumps' through the brake pedal.
I've also had the steering wheel vibration when the truck was new but it is very slight now.
Any thoughts?
