4th Gen Warped Rotors

i got these Irotors. which are supposedly good rotors.. they are slotted and drilled..
see the reason i was changing the brakes is because of this brake pulsation while coming to a stop as if there is a high spot somewhere in the rotor or the pad..

so i just did a whole brake job new rotors and oem pads.
but same problem still...

my mechanic said the calipers worked well when he looked at them..
but there is not really any shaking in the steering wheel. it feels like its coming from the rear brakes..
it stops straight and they feel good..

i was just looking at the old rotors and pads.. the front rotors and pads look good, smooth rotors and the pads were worn down equally..

the rear ones looked a little bit off center, meaning the front side of the pad was wore down more than the other side of the pad one set a little worse than the other rear set.. but not much..

but looking at the rotors, one of the rears has a spot that is cleaner than the rest of it.. this is on the inside of the rear..
but i dont know which side this rotor came off.. shoot!
shoulda marked them.. well its either the rear left or right..


so i bet one of the rear calipers are not working perfectly..

and no i never tow anything and the brakes were just changed 3 4 days ago. i noticed it right away same pulsation..

i have been very easy on them so i know they are not warped ..

the front brakes look and feel perfect.. no more shaking at 62mph...

so my mechanic lifted the rear and spun the wheel and you can hear when it goes around and touches the pad.. so we check other side, and get the same sound.. the wheel spins round and touches the pad...

so he told me to just drive it and see if it gets better or worse..

so ive been reading threads and people complain bout this but still never found any resolution....

so worse case i would buy new rotors for the rear, or should i have them rebuilt..
or do ya think i should buy new factory rear rotors?>
 
Well it could be one of two things. Either a caliper is stuck on both sides, or the rotors are just baldy warped. Do not resurface them, waste of money and will only last for about 500 or so miles. Buy the Irotors that you bought for the front. Don't buy the factory ones, obviously they warp easily. Good luck.
 
thanks for advice,, i read somewhere that the rear brake lines get beat up.. and they tend to stretch so when you let off the brakes the collapse again and the fluid does not go all the way back to the master ..so the caliper does not open all the way leaving a bit of the pad still touching the rotor..

im thinkin bout getting stoptechs stainless steel brake lines..
hopefully fix the rolling surges.. after taking a close look at the old rear rotor with a high spot on the inside of the rotor.. it can only be either the rotor or the caliper/brake line set up..
whatta ya think?
dan
 
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Someone on here did the stoptech SS brake lines. Try searching and when you find him, PM him and see if he experienced the pulsation before and after. I don't feel the pulsation, but it might be masked buy my warped rotors. I'm still on my factory rotors and pads at 56k and I tow, so there pretty beat up. I plan on doing a complete brake job very soon once I get the money. As for the stretching brake lines, might be a possibility, or one of your calipers only works right sometimes.
 
My First Post Here-

This is beginning to sound like a common 4th gen problem. I joined this forum specifically to find an answer here (or to blow a little steam.) :)
I just bought a 2004 4runner Limited with the same symptoms as I have read above. Pulsing to a stop. The truck is Toyota Used Car Certified with 38k miles. As per the dealer, a brake job was done at the dealership. My Dad and I drove it home and coming to a stop our heads were bobbing like Beavus and Butthead jamming to tunes. Called the dealer (several hundred miles away) and got the answer " Brakes not covered" ( I knew that but....)
I'm a racer and build my own cars so wrenching is just another day. I will fix the brakes but Im a little hacked and now question the dealer's integrity for passing the truck as "Toyota" Used Car Certified.
 
ya my brakes are good now.. i was easy on em for 300 miles then i seated em in per stoptechs instructions... warmed em up and gradually seated in pads and rotors.. they are perfect now.. i think the problem is the stock pads are sticky.. i can feel the residue left on the rotor really sticky. so basically burn em in
so im cool with this now,, but now im getting the vibration at 60mph.. it does it more now somehow.. i bet it could be that the pads sit right on the rotor and are causing the vibration.. thats why after a while the brake pads wear down and the vibration goes away for the most part...
 
actually they are good.,, i found out they are made from brembo blanks... the brake dust has gone down alot since i put em on..
they are really good at this point.... im glad i got em...
ya may go with those hawk pads.. i went with oem pads...
so theres nothin wrong with the calipers or brake lines..but it may be a cool upgrade to do the stainless steel lines..
my next mod is the trd intake.. also popped in the XM sat to my scion headunit.. awesome....
 
Well I'm enjoying a little satisfaction here! :bigok:
The dealership, *not Toyota * is standing behind their Toyota Certified Preowned Vehicle and repairing my rear brakes at their expense. (They let one slip by their 160 point Cert check as good to go with bad rotors ) The comprehensive 3mo/3k warranty is still good but Toyota Extended Care would not cover it.
 
I took my '05 4Runner in today with the warped rotors. It was especially bad at freeway speeds when you had to slow down or stop.

Well, the dealership not only turned the front rotors, but they replaced the front pads as well under warranty. The car is 500 miles away from being out of the factory warranty, although I bought an extended warranty from Shaun.

Haven't driven on the freeway yet but I have a lot of pedal and it is braking smoothly around town.

Of course I paid $80.00 for basically what amounted to an oil change and tire rotation. It seems they couldn't roll the tires to the other corners of the car once they had them off for brake service without charging me for it.

LOL!!
 
cknsls@adelphia said:
I
Of course I paid $80.00 for basically what amounted to an oil change and tire rotation. It seems they couldn't roll the tires to the other corners of the car once they had them off for brake service without charging me for it.

LOL!!


So True.
IMO, The dealership missed the opportunity to "Sell You" on return business after warranty and to get free and positive word of mouth advertising had they just swapped the wheels for free.

Greed wins again......
 

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