5-Speed Swap Wiring Diagram
- Thread starter Team_Jake
- Start date
busmup808
New member
Help please
PARK NEUTRAL SAFTY SWITCH= on automatic transmission
CLUTCH DEPRESS SWITCH= on clutch pedal assembly?
CLUTCH START CANCEL SWITCH= on L dash
CLUTCH RELEASE SWITCH= don’t know where this is?
REVERSE LIGHT SWITCH= on manual trans
So basically I just want to confirm where the CLUTCH DEPRESS/RELEASE SWITCHES are please. Much Mahaloz in advance.
PARK NEUTRAL SAFTY SWITCH= on automatic transmission
CLUTCH DEPRESS SWITCH= on clutch pedal assembly?
CLUTCH START CANCEL SWITCH= on L dash
CLUTCH RELEASE SWITCH= don’t know where this is?
REVERSE LIGHT SWITCH= on manual trans
So basically I just want to confirm where the CLUTCH DEPRESS/RELEASE SWITCHES are please. Much Mahaloz in advance.
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Team_Jake
Member
[MENTION=105773]busmup808[/MENTION]
Clutch Depress Switch: it’s on the clutch pedal assembly, when you press the clutch all the way to the floor, the clutch pedal will engage with a switch allowing the vehicle to start.
Clutch Release Switch: also on the clutch pedal assembly, but the switch is always engaged until you start to push the clutch in. If using cruise control, once the button is disengaged, the cruise control will automatically cancel.
Clutch Start Cancel Switch: a button found on the left side of the steering wheel. It allows the vehicle to start without the Clutch Depress Switch needing to be engaged. It can be useful if you want to start the vehicle while sitting in the passenger seat (be sure the transmission is in neutral). It’s also very useful when crawling on a steep incline; if the engine stalls, have one foot on the gas and one foot on the brake, press the Clutch Start Cancel Switch, put it in gear, and use the starter to get the vehicle moving (especially useful with a doubler / crawl box).
Reverse Light Switch: an electrical connector on the passenger side of the transmission (I believe the only electrical connection on a manual transmission).
Hope this info helps! I actually just got back from Oahu, vacation with my wife and kiddo, I was able to bodysurf at Point Panic which has been a long time bucket list item I was able to check off.
Clutch Depress Switch: it’s on the clutch pedal assembly, when you press the clutch all the way to the floor, the clutch pedal will engage with a switch allowing the vehicle to start.
Clutch Release Switch: also on the clutch pedal assembly, but the switch is always engaged until you start to push the clutch in. If using cruise control, once the button is disengaged, the cruise control will automatically cancel.
Clutch Start Cancel Switch: a button found on the left side of the steering wheel. It allows the vehicle to start without the Clutch Depress Switch needing to be engaged. It can be useful if you want to start the vehicle while sitting in the passenger seat (be sure the transmission is in neutral). It’s also very useful when crawling on a steep incline; if the engine stalls, have one foot on the gas and one foot on the brake, press the Clutch Start Cancel Switch, put it in gear, and use the starter to get the vehicle moving (especially useful with a doubler / crawl box).
Reverse Light Switch: an electrical connector on the passenger side of the transmission (I believe the only electrical connection on a manual transmission).
Hope this info helps! I actually just got back from Oahu, vacation with my wife and kiddo, I was able to bodysurf at Point Panic which has been a long time bucket list item I was able to check off.
busmup808
New member
Team Jake
Much Mahaloz . I figured it out after looking at my FSM & EWD. So if I understand you correctly, if I get a small piece of wire and crimp 2 spades on each end of pins 5&6, the truck will start? There’s a guy on YouTube that did the same conversation, but plugged the park/neutral switch on the existing plug to make the truck start. If I can just jump pins 5/6, it would make a cleaner install
I was thinking of this:
Much Mahaloz . I figured it out after looking at my FSM & EWD. So if I understand you correctly, if I get a small piece of wire and crimp 2 spades on each end of pins 5&6, the truck will start? There’s a guy on YouTube that did the same conversation, but plugged the park/neutral switch on the existing plug to make the truck start. If I can just jump pins 5/6, it would make a cleaner install
I was thinking of this:
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St Runner
Member
It will start like that but I would not want to do a final install like that. Understand that all you are doing is grounding the starting circuit. that is what the park/neutral switch and the clutch depress/cancel switch do. If you ground it permanently it will start in any gear at all times. If you do choose to do it that way its better to do it in the body behind the glove box where the engine harness comes through and it is dry. Or better yet take that starting circuit wire and run it to the clutch depress switch or even to just a grounded switch somewhere and then you will have a theft proof vehicle
busmup808
New member
Mahaloz for the input, but this is just a temporary thing for me to move the truck around. I have a clutch/cancel switch with pigtail coming in next week and the clutch release sw/cruise release sw on the clutch assembly will be wired in correctly. I would never make this my final. I’m taking the wiring further and will be adding the 2HI & 4LO light up in the cluster when engaged. When done, I will post pictures of what I did to complete in detail.
busmup808
New member
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busmup808
New member
Inside wiring almost done
I only have one more wire to connect and that is the wht/red wire to the clutch release switch on the top of the clutch pedal assembly. I installed the blk, blk/wht, & blk/yel wires that I had from a factory wiring harness from when I purchased the truck. I will post pictures of how I did it. It made the wiring a plug & play.
I only have one more wire to connect and that is the wht/red wire to the clutch release switch on the top of the clutch pedal assembly. I installed the blk, blk/wht, & blk/yel wires that I had from a factory wiring harness from when I purchased the truck. I will post pictures of how I did it. It made the wiring a plug & play.
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busmup808
New member
It starts
Big Mahaloz to [MENTION=177008]Team_Jake[/MENTION] for the diagram and information needed to make this swap successful. You are much appreciated. It’s been a while since I stepped on a clutch to start a truck, let alone drive it. I think 2008 was the last time. I still have to finish my exhaust and install the front/rear driveshafts. I’ll do that tomorrow.
This picture shows the wiring harness that came with my truck. I think it was to do with the rear wiring for the hitch because it was tucked away by the rear taillight.
Big Mahaloz to [MENTION=177008]Team_Jake[/MENTION] for the diagram and information needed to make this swap successful. You are much appreciated. It’s been a while since I stepped on a clutch to start a truck, let alone drive it. I think 2008 was the last time. I still have to finish my exhaust and install the front/rear driveshafts. I’ll do that tomorrow.
This picture shows the wiring harness that came with my truck. I think it was to do with the rear wiring for the hitch because it was tucked away by the rear taillight.
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phattyduck
Elite Member
Yes, that's the dealer/port installed trailer wiring. Unplug/remove it and the control box if you don't ever tow - they do fail and cause problems sometimes.
-Charlie
aussiebobaustin
New member
I have a 2002 AT 4Runner where I swapped out the AT for a 5 speed MT.
I have added a clutch depressed switch that is indicating "Parked" to the ECU. Now the motor will only start if the clutch is depressed.
I added the resistor to the AT temperature sessor.
I removed the solenoids from the AT and mounted them near the console connected to the associated ECU cable ... the solenoids get hot so I need to heat sink them.
Now the CEL is off but I have the EVAP , CAT and one other system not ready . How do I get them ready for the state inspection ?
I assume that I may need to add a clutch not depressed switch to indicate we are in "Drive" to the ECU to get systems trained but not sure.
Ultimately I may need to get a 2000 4Runner wire harness and AT ECU but suspect the VIN will change and I don't want that .
Any ideas appreciated ... Bob
I have added a clutch depressed switch that is indicating "Parked" to the ECU. Now the motor will only start if the clutch is depressed.
I added the resistor to the AT temperature sessor.
I removed the solenoids from the AT and mounted them near the console connected to the associated ECU cable ... the solenoids get hot so I need to heat sink them.
Now the CEL is off but I have the EVAP , CAT and one other system not ready . How do I get them ready for the state inspection ?
I assume that I may need to add a clutch not depressed switch to indicate we are in "Drive" to the ECU to get systems trained but not sure.
Ultimately I may need to get a 2000 4Runner wire harness and AT ECU but suspect the VIN will change and I don't want that .
Any ideas appreciated ... Bob
Dxvidmadero
New member
I have one question, you have more experience with this.
Is my first time making a auto to manual swap and i have two 4 runners the firts one is 5 speed 4x4-1997and the onther is automatic trans 2002.
i have everything to make the swap but I reach the point on the 2 connectors of the ECM from the auto 2002 are not the same as the ECM from the 5 speed
coming from the engine to the 5speed ECM all fit except one because the body of the auto 2002 has 2 connectors. and i dont find a service manual for the 5 speed just fro the Auto. please help
Is my first time making a auto to manual swap and i have two 4 runners the firts one is 5 speed 4x4-1997and the onther is automatic trans 2002.
i have everything to make the swap but I reach the point on the 2 connectors of the ECM from the auto 2002 are not the same as the ECM from the 5 speed
coming from the engine to the 5speed ECM all fit except one because the body of the auto 2002 has 2 connectors. and i dont find a service manual for the 5 speed just fro the Auto. please help
phattyduck
Elite Member
Did you put in the complete engine/transmission harness from the '97 into the '02? There are a LOT of changes for the engine to chassis wiring between those two years...
-Charlie
-Charlie
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