5th Gen Oil Recommendation? New Owner!

What’s your go to oil?

  • Total voters
    541
I'm probably the weird one here who likes to use Liqui Moly for my oil. Used to use it in my GTI and now use it in my wife's RAV4 and the 4Runner.
 
drewsro said:
I'm probably the weird one here who likes to use Liqui Moly for my oil. Used to use it in my GTI and now use it in my wife's RAV4 and the 4Runner.
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Not weird at all. Perfectly normal to want to use a quality oil and not off brand junk. Do you happen to have a data sheet on it?
 
2016 4Runner SR5 said:
You're the only one I have seen with fitment issues using the OEM aluminum housing. I put one on my 2016 4Runner, 2019 Highlander, and I bought one for my Dad for his 2019 4Runner. All of them fit like a glove with zero issues. Not sure what's going on with yours but there is more to the story. As for the gear oil, good call. I swapped mine front and rear at 11K and there was A LOT of speckle in the rear diff fluid. Front looked brand new but I was still happy to get it out of there. Engine oil every 5k, gear oil every 30k, transmission and transfer case every 50k Absolutely no one will convince me otherwise either. It is literally impossible to over maintain a vehicle. I challenge the people that say "you're overthinking it" to prove me wrong.
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Well said sir!!!!! Not sure what happened with the aluminum housing, it spun into the upper housing with just my fingers and when the aluminum oil filter housing met the upper aluminum housing that was it; metal on metal. I tried to torque it down but it barley moved. After letting the rig idle for about 5 minuets I noticed seepage, very very little but it was there. Tried to torque it again and it wasn’t moving. So I just put the plastic one back on for now.
The gear oil looked worse than I expected and the magnet had much more shavings than I had expected also. Either way just glad to get that Amsoil in.
 
Hammer0313 said:
Well said sir!!!!! Not sure what happened with the aluminum housing, it spun into the upper housing with just my fingers and when the aluminum oil filter housing met the upper aluminum housing that was it; metal on metal. I tried to torque it down but it barley moved. After letting the rig idle for about 5 minuets I noticed seepage, very very little but it was there. Tried to torque it again and it wasn’t moving. So I just put the plastic one back on for now.
The gear oil looked worse than I expected and the magnet had much more shavings than I had expected also. Either way just glad to get that Amsoil in.
Click to expand...

May sound like a stupid question but you did put the new o ring on the aluminum housing right?
 
2016 4Runner SR5 said:
You're the only one I have seen with fitment issues using the OEM aluminum housing. I put one on my 2016 4Runner, 2019 Highlander, and I bought one for my Dad for his 2019 4Runner. All of them fit like a glove with zero issues. Not sure what's going on with yours but there is more to the story. As for the gear oil, good call. I swapped mine front and rear at 11K and there was A LOT of speckle in the rear diff fluid. Front looked brand new but I was still happy to get it out of there. Engine oil every 5k, gear oil every 30k, transmission and transfer case every 50k Absolutely no one will convince me otherwise either. It is literally impossible to over maintain a vehicle. I challenge the people that say "you're overthinking it" to prove me wrong.
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Hey, what are you using in your transfer case?
 
2016 4Runner SR5 said:
Not weird at all. Perfectly normal to want to use a quality oil and not off brand junk. Do you happen to have a data sheet on it?
Click to expand...

What kind of data you looking for? This is the first time I'm using it for the 4Runner (just changed it Saturday). The last two oil changes were Penzoil and Toyota oil.
 
drewsro said:
What kind of data you looking for? This is the first time I'm using it for the 4Runner (just changed it Saturday). The last two oil changes were Penzoil and Toyota oil.
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Spec sheet, chemical makeup. Toyota oil has extremely high Moly, 787 PPM and that's the old formula. New formula is said to have an even higher Moly content however I have not seen a data sheet on it to verify those claims. Curious to see where this stuff comes in.
 
2016 4Runner SR5 said:
My 2016 is just shy of 20K miles so it'll be a while but when the time comes I will spend the money on the Toyota 75W oil that belongs in it.
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Same here, I just changed the transfer case at 31K miles. It looked about the same as the new Toyota 75W I put in it. It was pricey though at $87/ liter. Doesn't bother me though as I don't see a few extra $ worth possibly something going wrong prematurely and costing much more. I'm no expert but that's my thinking.

I changed the rear differential at 5K, 15K, and at 31K. Each time it was grey and had sludge buildup on the drain plug magnet. I used royal purple 75-90 this time and Mobil 1 previously.

I held off on the front differential until 31K as I had heard numerous people report that it looked new at this interval. When I changed mine it was the light grey in color and had a good amount of sludge buildup on the drain plug magnet.

Oil I change every 5K. I loin free in the AZ desert acms it's cheap to change oil.

CONCLUSION: For my driving habits I am going to change the differentials every 15K and transfer case most likely every 30K. The transfer case will probably be ok at longer intervals, but it will be easy to do every other differential change.
Judy thought I would share my experiences with the oil changes.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
I'm going to handle my own basic maintenance chores on my new to me 4runner. Looking at using the Quaker State Ultimate Durability 0-20 ,,,, has anyone found it hard to find? Amazon is out and my local Walmart doesn't have it. Strange...

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
2016 4Runner SR5 said:
Spec sheet, chemical makeup. Toyota oil has extremely high Moly, 787 PPM and that's the old formula. New formula is said to have an even higher Moly content however I have not seen a data sheet on it to verify those claims. Curious to see where this stuff comes in.
Click to expand...

in the interest of helping you find an alternative from TGMO if necessary, here's a recent UOA someone ran with Redline 5W30 to show you the moly levels...almost all reports are 500+. you won't find a cost savings using Redline over TGMO but if for some reason you need to substitute and you insist on high moly, that is likely a good brand to consider.

their oil has a really strong High Temp High Shear rating as well, higher than some 30 weights...which means great things for long run (10k miles) durability and staying in grade under stress.
https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/5W20_MO_PROD_INFO.pdf

hope that may be helpful.
 
bugkillr said:
I'm going to handle my own basic maintenance chores on my new to me 4runner. Looking at using the Quaker State Ultimate Durability 0-20 ,,,, has anyone found it hard to find? Amazon is out and my local Walmart doesn't have it. Strange...
Click to expand...


Find Oil Change & Retail Locations Nearby | Quaker State lists locations that carry QS products. I just checked inventory at local Target stores. Not all stores carry 0W-20. Walmart is offering next day delivery to a store nearby.
 
MidniteTRD said:
in the interest of helping you find an alternative from TGMO if necessary, here's a recent UOA someone ran with Redline 5W30 to show you the moly levels...almost all reports are 500+. you won't find a cost savings using Redline over TGMO but if for some reason you need to substitute and you insist on high moly, that is likely a good brand to consider.

their oil has a really strong High Temp High Shear rating as well, higher than some 30 weights...which means great things for long run (10k miles) durability and staying in grade under stress.
https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/5W20_MO_PROD_INFO.pdf

hope that may be helpful.
Click to expand...

^^^^^This^^^^^

Redline is a good High moly oil but has the added benefit of group 4&5 base oil, stays in grade too. Redline Professional Series oils All have a higher cSt across the line; good stuff. Guys over on the Ram forums call redline Hemi Homey, proven to be one of the best, and produced some of the best UOA’s I’ve ever seen.
 
mcox522 said:
Same here, I just changed the transfer case at 31K miles. It looked about the same as the new Toyota 75W I put in it. It was pricey though at $87/ liter. Doesn't bother me though as I don't see a few extra $ worth possibly something going wrong prematurely and costing much more. I'm no expert but that's my thinking.

I changed the rear differential at 5K, 15K, and at 31K. Each time it was grey and had sludge buildup on the drain plug magnet. I used royal purple 75-90 this time and Mobil 1 previously.

I held off on the front differential until 31K as I had heard numerous people report that it looked new at this interval. When I changed mine it was the light grey in color and had a good amount of sludge buildup on the drain plug magnet.

Oil I change every 5K. I loin free in the AZ desert acms it's cheap to change oil.

CONCLUSION: For my driving habits I am going to change the differentials every 15K and transfer case most likely every 30K. The transfer case will probably be ok at longer intervals, but it will be easy to do every other differential change.
Judy thought I would share my experiences with the oil changes.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

^^^^^ That’s a solid maintenance strategy right there sir, that’s good stuff^^^
What engin oil are you running?
 
I've pained over this as well for my 2019. After significant reading and research over at BITOG I came to a solid conclusion. The Toyota 4.0 isn't picky, is going to run longer than most engines regardless of what you put in it. I settled on QSUD 0W-20 and a factory Toyota filter. I did my first change at a little over 2K and will probably do another at 7500 and settle into a 7500oci from then on. You can pay as much as you want or as little as you want but in the end it probably will make little difference. For the last 32years or so I've bought into an early first change and then regular intervals after that. With QSUD and a factory filter I think the change was less than $30.

Now that being said if you have a sludgy DI engine you may want to look harder. I had a 2.7 Ecoboost that I only used Pennzoil Ultimate Platinum due to the reported issues.
 
Hammer0313 said:
OK guys here is an update:

The aluminum housing did not work for me, it didn’t leak but it did Seep oil very slowly. And the center tube didn’t seat very good at all, the slightest movement from side to side it would pop out. This was the OEM aluminum housing from Toyota! FYI- No need to bend the tabs to get the center tube out.

Rear Diff: Just look at the photos, rig only has 2966 miles on it and the gear oil looked worn. Glad I got that out!
Click to expand...

That oil "looks" brand new to me. No pic of the magnetic drain plug?
 
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