5vz-fe Removal

[Atoyot Rennur4]

If you are going to pull the transmission anyways go ahead and do that first. Keep the transmission and transfer case together, bolt the engine mounts back down, remove both the driveshafts(those *&&^%^@$ need some force to get apart)and unbolt the crossmember while it is supported I assume you have the shift levers off and the clutch slave removed so you should be able to pull the transmission back or strap and winch if you have too. I would keep the 5 speed transmission along with the rear driveshaft, clutch pedal,slave and master cylinder and the ecu and engine harness together. Easier to sell or use as a full 5 speed swap

As of this moment I have not disconnected anything on the transmission. I plan to keep the entire drive train and the clutch pedal hopefully to sell or maybe use one day.
How should I remove the front drive shaft? It is unbolted from differential and Tcase. If memory serves me right, at the differential all bolts are removed so It should break loose there. On the Tcase there are still 4 bolts, nuts removed, sticking thru drive shaft. I figured I need to remove rear drive shaft and slip Tcase toward rear of vehicle to free up front. Is that correct?

 

[St Runner]

I use the gap in between the bolts to get a pry bar in. sometimes a shock from a hammer helps as they tend to rust together

 

[St Runner]

Once it breaks loose you can squeeze it together and pull the shaft out

 

[TheDurk]

As of this moment I have not disconnected anything on the transmission. I plan to keep the entire drive train and the clutch pedal hopefully to sell or maybe use one day.
How should I remove the front drive shaft? It is unbolted from differential and Tcase. If memory serves me right, at the differential all bolts are removed so It should break loose there. On the Tcase there are still 4 bolts, nuts removed, sticking thru drive shaft. I figured I need to remove rear drive shaft and slip Tcase toward rear of vehicle to free up front. Is that correct?

Not really. The rear end of front shaft is nuts on studs in the flange but the front is nuts and bolts through holes in the diff flange. So if you remove the front bolts completely, you just need to compress the front shaft enough that the front yoke circular rim clears from the hole in the front diff flange. Then the front end drops free and you can pull it forward off the studs.

Same for the rear. Separate the diff end first because those are bolts. TCase flange has studs.

 

[Atoyot Rennur4]

Got the motor out. It just took a little prying. Unbolted the flywheel so I could put it on my engine stand and was surprised to see oil coming out the bolt holes. I drained the oil from the pan and put the bolts back in a couple of turns. Been a long time since I worked on a manual transmission. I never remember oil coming out the flywheel bolt holes before. Is that normal?

 

[phattyduck]

Got the motor out. It just took a little prying. Unbolted the flywheel so I could put it on my engine stand and was surprised to see oil coming out the bolt holes. I drained the oil from the pan and put the bolts back in a couple of turns. Been a long time since I worked on a manual transmission. I never remember oil coming out the flywheel bolt holes before. Is that normal?

Many Toyota motors are drilled through on the flywheel/flexplate bolt holes. Make sure to use a thread sealant on re-assembly... Ask me how I know!

-Charlie

 

[Atoyot Rennur4]

Wiring harness

I took the glove box door off and took a peek inside. I have heard people say to pull wiring harness from behind glovebox. I have taken the #10 nuts off firewall and see that huge pile of wires coming thru firewall. At first glance it doesn't seem like you just unclip a single easy to get to connector. How do you disconnect that harness?

 

[St Runner]

It unclips much easier than you would think. Remove the glove box and you will see the ecu and the engine harness wires. Depending on your year and trim you should have three bundles that clip into the ecu and two bundles that clip separately off to the side. Unclip those connectors and the whole engine wiring harness will pull right out

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Then unplug all the connectors on top of engine plus cam and crank sensors and oil pressure switch.

There is also a bolt holding the harness on the drivers side motor mount you need to remove. Then just lay the entire harness over the drivers fender.

If you pull engine and trans together just lay the harness in top of engine and unplug the O2 sensors.


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[phattyduck]

I took the glove box door off and took a peek inside. I have heard people say to pull wiring harness from behind glovebox. I have taken the #10 nuts off firewall and see that huge pile of wires coming thru firewall. At first glance it doesn't seem like you just unclip a single easy to get to connector. How do you disconnect that harness?

You need to remove the top/back of the glove box and you can see everything you need to do. It is then just 4 plugs to disconnect and pull into the engine bay:

The only challenge is removing the little door that holds the passenger airbag connector at the top of the glove compartment. Everything else is straightforward.

-Charlie

 

[rkymtnman]

going to pull the motor on my kid's '99 today. It died an early death unfortunately and will be (eventually) transplanted in to a donor. Will use your write up as a guide (THANKS for putting it together!)

Anyway - when I pulled the motor on my 2000 Saab, it was easier to unhook all wiring from the ECU and pull the motor with all wiring attached to the motor. When we dropped the motor back in to the donor vehicle, we only really had to reconnect the harness to the ECU. (plus a couple others)

I have read all I can find on this, downloaded FSMs and am ready to roll but never saw any talk about pulling the motor with the harness attached to it. I know Saabs are seriously qwirky...any reason to do something similar with the 4runner?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

going to pull the motor on my kid's '99 today. It died an early death unfortunately and will be (eventually) transplanted in to a donor. Will use your write up as a guide (THANKS for putting it together!)



Anyway - when I pulled the motor on my 2000 Saab, it was easier to unhook all wiring from the ECU and pull the motor with all wiring attached to the motor. When we dropped the motor back in to the donor vehicle, we only really had to reconnect the harness to the ECU. (plus a couple others)



I have read all I can find on this, downloaded FSMs and am ready to roll but never saw any talk about pulling the motor with the harness attached to it. I know Saabs are seriously qwirky...any reason to do something similar with the 4runner?

If you pulling the engine and trans together that's all you have to do with the exception of the front starter and Alt harness. That's how I pulled the engine and trans out of the wrecked 96. Don't forget the harness anchor bolt on top of the drivers side motor mount. If you forget you will rip the connector apart that goes to the 4wd actuator.


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[rkymtnman]

If you pulling the engine and trans together that's all you have to do with the exception of the front starter and Alt harness. That's how I pulled the engine and trans out of the wrecked 96. Don't forget the harness anchor bolt on top of the drivers side motor mount. If you forget you will rip the connector apart that goes to the 4wd actuator.


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Thank you Sir! We pulled the harness off the ECU and should have to motor out in a bit. I am planning to pull the trans but was thinking I'd do it by itself. This '99 is wrecked and we are planning to use the motor and trans in the next 4runner and will part out whatever we don't need. This one is low mile so figure we'll do a timing belt, water pump, fresh gaskets and a clutch and pop it in the yet-to-be-found donor. Was a really nice 4runner before the kid t-boned a bmw with it. Live and learn.

Thanks for the tip.

EDIT: On second thought....probably WAY easier to pull it all in one piece....especially with the front clip off the 4runner.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Thank you Sir! We pulled the harness off the ECU and should have to motor out in a bit. I am planning to pull the trans but was thinking I'd do it by itself. This '99 is wrecked and we are planning to use the motor and trans in the next 4runner and will part out whatever we don't need. This one is low mile so figure we'll do a timing belt, water pump, fresh gaskets and a clutch and pop it in the yet-to-be-found donor. Was a really nice 4runner before the kid t-boned a bmw with it. Live and learn.

Thanks for the tip.

EDIT: On second thought....probably WAY easier to pull it all in one piece....especially with the front clip off the 4runner.

Check your valve clearance too and think about a rear main seal while it's on the engine stand. I took a sawzaw to the whole rad support to make engine-trans-XFR case removal out of my wreck easier. Pictures in here somewhere of it.

My build and repair thread documents a lot of engine removal and install.


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[rkymtnman]

Check your valve clearance too and think about a rear main seal while it's on the engine stand. I took a sawzaw to the whole rad support to make engine-trans-XFR case removal out of my wreck easier. Pictures in here somewhere of it.

My build and repair thread documents a lot of engine removal and install.


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Saw that in your thread. Thinking I'll do the same with ours. My crane is one of those less than "robust" Harbor Freight deals so the lower I can keep it the happier I'll be. Will definitely replace the rear main while we have it out and have a look at the clearances. Don't know how long it will take us to source the recipient 4runner - and we aren't really in a hurry so we'll take out time to make this motor bullet proof for another couple hundred k's while it is out and we have the time.

Thanks for all the advise...i really appreciate it.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Saw that in your thread. Thinking I'll do the same with ours. My crane is one of those less than "robust" Harbor Freight deals so the lower I can keep it the happier I'll be. Will definitely replace the rear main while we have it out and have a look at the clearances. Don't know how long it will take us to source the recipient 4runner - and we aren't really in a hurry so we'll take out time to make this motor bullet proof for another couple hundred k's while it is out and we have the time.



Thanks for all the advise...i really appreciate it.

It took around three years trolling Craig's List to find mine in Dillsburg PA. Got it for 550 needing a engine and trans. The trans that his uncle's garage said was toast is doing fine.


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[rkymtnman]

It took around three years trolling Craig's List to find mine in Dillsburg PA. Got it for 550 needing a engine and trans. The trans that his uncle's garage said was toast is doing fine.


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That is one really nice thing about living in Colorado...there are literally a couple that seem to come up every week. Just need to find the "right one" and we are being patient. Generally, if the car is from here, there is zero rust. High miles....but zero rust. Will probably re-do the suspension while we are at it. The wrecked runner has a locking rear diff and a manual trans. Trying to find at least something with a manual is the tricky part.....we'll swap the rear end if we have to. The down side is people think they are plated in gold out here because everyone seems to want one. All part of the fun.....the chase seems to be in our blood I guess. We love to fix/drive a bit/flip vehicles but think this 4runner will be in the stable for a while.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

That is one really nice thing about living in Colorado...there are literally a couple that seem to come up every week. Just need to find the "right one" and we are being patient. Generally, if the car is from here, there is zero rust. High miles....but zero rust. Will probably re-do the suspension while we are at it. The wrecked runner has a locking rear diff and a manual trans. Trying to find at least something with a manual is the tricky part.....we'll swap the rear end if we have to. The down side is people think they are plated in gold out here because everyone seems to want one. All part of the fun.....the chase seems to be in our blood I guess. We love to fix/drive a bit/flip vehicles but think this 4runner will be in the stable for a while.

When I put insurance on it two weeks ago the State Farm said it was worth 5200 with 258,000 miles on it.


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[19963.4lsr5]

When I put insurance on it two weeks ago the State Farm said it was worth 5200 with 258,000 miles on it.

I've put 1000 miles on it since commissioning. I'll go back to driving my 44mpg Saturn when this tank is empty.


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[Kiefy4Runner]

Great write up! Will use in the future!:bolt: