zonarunner
New member
I'm surprised by the amount of people who did not know about this mod. Awesome pictures. Looking forward to hitting the trails with ya
A-Ha's Build.
- Thread starter aha2988
- Start date
I keep thinking the same thing! I mean come on, this is pretty common knowledge now! Lol
Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
I'm just busting your chops bud! ignore my idiocracy.
Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
aha2988
New member
Wiring FJ case to 4runner Dash
Got the project wrapped up this past weekend. Did the wiring friday night then buttoned up the under side sunday.
Wiring was super simple the gauge cluster pulls power from the fuse box under the steering wheel. The center diff lock light, 4lo and 4wd have signal wires that come from the gauge to the 4wd ECU. A Haynes manual spells this out extremely clear in one of the rear schematics.
I will be removing wire from the necessary materials list as I didnt have to use any of my own. I chose to make a 4" jumper lead off the sensors but it wasnt required.
The wires that plug into the originial tcase actuator assy, lead back into the 4wd computer as well. So once you unplug the computer you now have wires that run back to the transfer case from inside the cab. I just chose two colors I knew weren't already grounded somewhere (multi meter magic) and cut them from the connector. I used yellow and the blue w/ red strip. the 4wd ECU is screwed to the bottom kick plate under the glove box. just remove the glove box and the one screw holding the kick plate them your there.
On the Other connector. Brown w/ white stripe is 4lo signal to gauge and green with red stripe is the center diff lock actuator, in this case my 4wd indicator.
4lo sensor is front driver side, 4wd sensor is passenger side. then just run the other lead not used from the sensor to a ground.
the connector:
After getting that all buttoned back up I moved on to sealing the hole. Ordered a piece of 1/8th rubber online and cut to fit. I used hollow punches to create the holes for the bolts.
eyeballed where to put rivet holes and started drilling
then just put the rivets in
Onto the next task :dancin:
Got the project wrapped up this past weekend. Did the wiring friday night then buttoned up the under side sunday.
Wiring was super simple the gauge cluster pulls power from the fuse box under the steering wheel. The center diff lock light, 4lo and 4wd have signal wires that come from the gauge to the 4wd ECU. A Haynes manual spells this out extremely clear in one of the rear schematics.
I will be removing wire from the necessary materials list as I didnt have to use any of my own. I chose to make a 4" jumper lead off the sensors but it wasnt required.
The wires that plug into the originial tcase actuator assy, lead back into the 4wd computer as well. So once you unplug the computer you now have wires that run back to the transfer case from inside the cab. I just chose two colors I knew weren't already grounded somewhere (multi meter magic) and cut them from the connector. I used yellow and the blue w/ red strip. the 4wd ECU is screwed to the bottom kick plate under the glove box. just remove the glove box and the one screw holding the kick plate them your there.
On the Other connector. Brown w/ white stripe is 4lo signal to gauge and green with red stripe is the center diff lock actuator, in this case my 4wd indicator.
4lo sensor is front driver side, 4wd sensor is passenger side. then just run the other lead not used from the sensor to a ground.
the connector:
After getting that all buttoned back up I moved on to sealing the hole. Ordered a piece of 1/8th rubber online and cut to fit. I used hollow punches to create the holes for the bolts.
eyeballed where to put rivet holes and started drilling
then just put the rivets in
Onto the next task :dancin:
Attachments
aha2988
New member
Attempting to keep the rear A/C
So obviously that air duct isn't going to pass through the new shifters. So I've attempted to create a modified one with 1-1/4" vacuum hose. Its shoty but seams to work. It definitely adds tension to the 4wd shifter but its not like your going back an forth with that all the time anyway. I definitely think if I added a thick leather boot, i'd lose the room for at least one of the hoses. but here are the pics. I think they're pretty self explanatory.
After testing the air flow in the rear vents, it definitely works but its not the best. Questionable how much difference it makes over just having the front dash vents on full. Its a solution for now until I stumble across some smaller vacuum hose. the console doesn't line back up 100% with the modified duct. Adding duct tape to that connection would improve the flow, however you'd have to remove the tape anytime you uninstalled the console.
Now just to finalize the Tcase install underneath
So obviously that air duct isn't going to pass through the new shifters. So I've attempted to create a modified one with 1-1/4" vacuum hose. Its shoty but seams to work. It definitely adds tension to the 4wd shifter but its not like your going back an forth with that all the time anyway. I definitely think if I added a thick leather boot, i'd lose the room for at least one of the hoses. but here are the pics. I think they're pretty self explanatory.
After testing the air flow in the rear vents, it definitely works but its not the best. Questionable how much difference it makes over just having the front dash vents on full. Its a solution for now until I stumble across some smaller vacuum hose. the console doesn't line back up 100% with the modified duct. Adding duct tape to that connection would improve the flow, however you'd have to remove the tape anytime you uninstalled the console.
Now just to finalize the Tcase install underneath
Attachments
Last edited:
aha2988
New member
Fitting the Drive shafts.
So the Fj case moves the front and rear drive flanges forward about 1". Its just a shorter housing. The 4runner shafts account for this, they just have to be adjusted. Adjusting the rear is as easy as pumping more grease in the shaft. The fronts a little more of a headache. It was easiest to just go ahead and pull the front shaft.
Remove the zerk fitting
I used a block an hammer to compress the shafts and press the grease out.
arty:
arty:
My Jeep buddy came to work on his a little to :bluejump:
So no more center Diff lock issue, no more leaky actuator. On to the next little odds an ends. Probably more cleaning lol
So the Fj case moves the front and rear drive flanges forward about 1". Its just a shorter housing. The 4runner shafts account for this, they just have to be adjusted. Adjusting the rear is as easy as pumping more grease in the shaft. The fronts a little more of a headache. It was easiest to just go ahead and pull the front shaft.
Remove the zerk fitting
I used a block an hammer to compress the shafts and press the grease out.
arty:arty:My Jeep buddy came to work on his a little to :bluejump:
So no more center Diff lock issue, no more leaky actuator. On to the next little odds an ends. Probably more cleaning lol
Attachments
aha2988
New member
yea man, drives just fine. Loving the new 2wd availability. I'll have to take some time to measure an see if its worth noting but the turning radius improved greatly it feels like, and when I take off from a stop I don't feel the front end trying to take off without me.
Shifting into low gear is a little sketchy. obviously have to be in neutral with the transmission and stopped but the input shaft in the tcase is still spinning when you throw the lever so it grinds a little bit. Maybe giving it more time after shifting to neutral would allow it to stop but it doesn't seem to be a big deal.
shifting into 4wd is quick an easy pull it back for 4wd, throw it forward to get back into 2wd.
Very happy with this modification so far. there is definitely more road noise with the hole in the floor. I never took the time to seal the shift boot down really well other than two existing bolts. I plan to use some peel an seal window framing tape to seal that down and close any air gaps I might have in the main seal. I think I can improve the road noise but not eliminate it completely. Adding a leather shift boot would benefit as well.
zonarunner
New member
Awesome! Congrats. Happy you like the mod. You should do the write up as a separate post so people can find it when then search.
aha2988
New member
I dont think i tried that combo when i test drove, I'll have to see. maybe being in 4wd would stop the shaft from spinning allowing a smother shift into the low drive.
I can't make it to easy now... I figured searching would pull up the post titles if nothing else.
I see what you're saying. Stock can't get to 4lo without going through 4hi first. Right?
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aha2988
New member
yep, I'll have to confirm but I believe this is the case.
aha2988
New member
I won't be messing with a speed sensor until I swap rear axles. the odometer reads off the rear wheel speed sensor. Not worried about correcting just a few mph.
There is a speed sensor in the transfer case, right?
What does it do?
I haven't looked into that. Just want to make sure I don't have any surprises.
Called about one this morning. The awd case is actually worth more and mine is in perfect condition. May try and do some trading.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What does it do?
I haven't looked into that. Just want to make sure I don't have any surprises.
Called about one this morning. The awd case is actually worth more and mine is in perfect condition. May try and do some trading.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
