Essentially its the you eff'ed up light.
a/t fluid overheat
- Thread starter atalarico
- Start date
Essentially its the you eff'ed up light.
atalarico
Senior Member
While you were wheeling prior to the light coming on, was it in 4Lo?
Yes, a mix of 4hi and low between 2nd and L gears. More around the actual time it turned on, I was climbing up a steep grade with limited traction. 4lo and 2 or L for that usually.
Why do you ask?
jgue467
Senior Member
Since its the first time in 6 yrs of ownership, maybe the fan/clutch isn't pulling air thru as well as it once did at low speeds?
The external bypassed trans cooler won't affect the a/c operation, not even in texas 105+ heat. Actually the heat from the a/c condensor raises my trans temps (i only run an external trans cooler) by about 4-6 degrees (after shutting off a/c I can see the drop within 2 mins).
I too plan to add an external fan for the in-town towing situations, once up to speed it all cools down to under 190 - so the aim is to get to the same with in-town stop/go towing where it currently can get to 217-221 until a steady speed is reached again. OD being off doesn't help much if at all in city driving for me, only on the highway. Luck!
The external bypassed trans cooler won't affect the a/c operation, not even in texas 105+ heat. Actually the heat from the a/c condensor raises my trans temps (i only run an external trans cooler) by about 4-6 degrees (after shutting off a/c I can see the drop within 2 mins).
I too plan to add an external fan for the in-town towing situations, once up to speed it all cools down to under 190 - so the aim is to get to the same with in-town stop/go towing where it currently can get to 217-221 until a steady speed is reached again. OD being off doesn't help much if at all in city driving for me, only on the highway. Luck!
atalarico
Senior Member
Ya know, I definitely crossed paths with threads talking about fan clutches in this whole process. I mean, it's almost a 20 year old car, and I'm sure it's the original clutch. I'm going to look into adding this to the list of replacements too.
I couldn't tell if there's a decent way to check the clutch other than overheating stuff. Thoughts? Never mind, I found this other thread! I'm going to check this out later!
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atalarico
Senior Member
Ok, so I got everything prepped but getting stumped on how to mount this thing. Do I want to zip tie it right to my freshly cleaned condenser with the foam pads in between or do I want to use these metal mounts and mount it off of the condenser?
It's on the drivers side because I'm going inline and that seems the most direct to go inline , right?
Oh, and my fan clutch is probably in need of replacement. Tried spinning it freely and it barely goes (like that guys video). So that's on the list now.
It's on the drivers side because I'm going inline and that seems the most direct to go inline , right?
Oh, and my fan clutch is probably in need of replacement. Tried spinning it freely and it barely goes (like that guys video). So that's on the list now.
atalarico
Senior Member
Yup easily frustrated today. Definitely need way more hardware to mount this than what's included. No clue what kind of screws to use and I haven't a clue why I can't find any in series install walk throughs to help me figure out which side to put this on and what to mount it to. Agh. I give up for today.
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
Ok, so I got everything prepped but getting stumped on how to mount this thing. Do I want to zip tie it right to my freshly cleaned condenser with the foam pads in between or do I want to use these metal mounts and mount it off of the condenser?
It's on the drivers side because I'm going inline and that seems the most direct to go inline , right?
Oh, and my fan clutch is probably in need of replacement. Tried spinning it freely and it barely goes (like that guys video). So that's on the list now.
Mounted on that side, with the ports faced to the drivers side makes it more difficult to run the hoses because of the position of the radiator out port pointing to the passenger side. Somewhere a hose is going to have to make a 180 turn to go to the drivers side. Now I didn't do it but my Amazon Denso radiator was delivered with a very loose exit port fitting and you could turn it. (supposedly very common) I'm not sure how far you can turn it. I actually still have it in my scrap heap so maybe i'll see how it works.
I mounted the cooler the manufacturer suggested way - as close to the condenser as possible. I also only went through the condenser by removing the 4 bolts that hold the radiator bracket on and just moved the top of the radiator forward to get my hand down there to use the zip ties. Super easy.
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JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]'s walk through is exactly what you need
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atalarico
Senior Member
mtbtim
Elite Member
Here Bro, I think my video will help you. But to give you some quick advice, using the heavy duty zip ties that come with the kit to affix it to the AC condenser is the easiest way to go. I chose to push the zip ties through the radiator as well for two reasons. One, it disperses the weight of the cooler between two parts thus putting less concentrated weight just on the condenser. Two, I figured if I ever had to replace a zip tie, I'd probably be pushing it through both anyway because I doubt I'd want to loosen the radiator so I could get my hand in there.
As [MENTION=107674]JRZEE2000TR4LTD[/MENTION] recommends, facing the ports towards the passenger side in a sideways mount made running the lines easier, at least it did for me and I basically copied how others before me did it.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2nVbwe2t2T8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
fourfive
Senior Member
No coupler needed just maybe some extra 3/8 trans hose.
I have my external cooler in the side mount with the ports facing the driver side. I did this b/c I had more room to run the hoses. I also rotated the L shaped port on the driver side of the radiator so there weren't any turns in the hose. It's rotated at about the 2 o'clock position.
mtbtim
Elite Member
I don't understand your question. There's no need for a coupler whether you're running the cooler in-series or bypassing. When running in-series, you go from the send line off the transmission to the passenger side of the radiator cooler. From there, the fluid exits the driver side of the cooler and runs to the external cooler. If mounting it sideways, you'd have it going in on the bottom fitting and leaving through the top fitting. Then it returns to the metal return line on the transmission.
If you are planning on bypassing, the fluid leaves the transmission on the send line, goes directly to the external cooler and back to the transmission return line. You can use some your old tubing to connect the ports of the radiator cooler together so leftover ATF in the cooler doesn't leak out and it will also prevent coolant from leaking out if the trans cooler inside the radiator cracks and allows coolant inside.
I hope this clarifies things for you.
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
That's good to know that fitting can be re positioned. I thought it might but wasn't sure. I would have done it the way you did it too because there is definitely more room.
fourfive
Senior Member
I think it was a 19mm box end wrench i used to just loosen the nut and then the fitting would freely rotate. Once it was in the position i wanted, i just tightend down the nut.
mtbtim
Elite Member
I was also thinking of going that route but when I read a write-up from [MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION] saying he had to bend the driver side L-shaped cooler fitting a little to clear the fan shroud, I decided to run the lines to the passenger side. I didn't like the idea of cranking on that fitting, because any time you bend metal, you fatigue it and increase the chances of it cracking. You obviously just can't point the fitting towards the 3 o'clock position because the lower radiator hose connection is in the way. Did you have to bend the fitting to clear the fan shroud to have it at the 2 o'clock position?
Any chance you could share some pictures of how you ran your lines? I'm sure people would appreciate seeing how you did it.
Drcoffee
Senior Member
Did I say bend the fitting? I clocked it to clear the fan shroud but I don't believe I actually bent it. Going the drivers side was far easier and offered more room to pass around the radiator than the passenger side.
I must have but its doing fine.
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mtbtim
Elite Member
Here's your quote from the thread you started:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/107129-transmission-cooler-pass-radiator-not-pass-9.html
"From underneath you can see the radiator port rotated to the 11 o'clock position. I had to bend the pipe out about a 1/4" to clear the fan shroud. The other line connects to the Magnefine in-line filter before returning the fluid to the transmission. These filters are designed for 30,000 mile service life but if you forget to replace it, it has an internal valve to bypass the filter if the filter gets clogged."
atalarico
Senior Member
Ah hah! That makes it crystal clear now. I mis-read the write-ups somehow.
OK, so going to attack this when I get home, and thanks to everyone's patience and very clear explanations, I'm going to:
-Attach the cooler to the driver's side using the zipties that run through the condenser and the radiator. I guess I just stick those on the cooler's 4 corners that are in contact with the condenser?
-If I can use a box wrench and reorient the L-shaped return port on the radiator to clear the lower rad hose, I can mount the cooler with the ports facing the driver's side.
-Buy some more 3/4" coolant tubing (I don't know why I keep saying 3/8) to run from the driver's side radiator port and on up to the bottom port on the cooler. The last time I was at Autozone, the only thing I could find (without asking) was just a little 4' section of pre-cut tubing. I have one of those already that I used for the transmission flush, but if it doesn't reach for some reason, is there a better way to go about sourcing this that I can get tonight? Hardware store maybe?
-I'll take the included tubing (hoping that it's the correct diameter) and connect the top port on the cooler and run it all the way back to the hard return port on the transmission. This might be where the length of the included tubing comes into to play though.
-I'll ziptie all of the tubing to secure it.
Any thoughts on the order of operations here? I'm thinking that if I mount the cooler with the hoses connected and free hanging, I can get a better idea of where I should mount it without interference from other stuff.
Is yours mounted on the drivers side? I can't tell from that sentence, but if so, that's what I'll be attempting too!
