Another way to run it is having the intake/outtake pointing up on the cooler. I ran the line from the radiator through the passenger side to the intake on the left side of the cooler and ran the outlet on the right going to the driver side to a inline filter and back to the tranny. I would take pictures of it, but it's in the shop getting re-geared. For this, you don't need to change anything coming off the radiator.
a/t fluid overheat
- Thread starter atalarico
- Start date
Another way to run it is having the intake/outtake pointing up on the cooler. I ran the line from the radiator through the passenger side to the intake on the left side of the cooler and ran the outlet on the right going to the driver side to a inline filter and back to the tranny. I would take pictures of it, but it's in the shop getting re-geared. For this, you don't need to change anything coming off the radiator.
atalarico
Senior Member
Yeah, that crossed my mind but I'm going to stick with the tried/true/recommended side-ways mounting. If there is a .01% chance of something bad happening, it'll happen to me.
mtbtim
Elite Member
3/8" is the inner diameter of the transmission hose. 3/4" tubing is wrong. Just go to the auto parts store and you'll be able to find some 3/8" transmission hose. It fits a little tighter on the fittings but if you use some ATF to lubricate it first, they will slide right on.
Just watch the video I provided and you should understand the order of how to do it.
There is nothing wrong with mounting it facing up, per instructions, up or to the side is the same thing. It's when you direct in facing down is where they do not recommend. Either way will work, for anyone else considering it.
atalarico
Senior Member
Ah! Got it. I remember seeing some sort of danger with a vertical orientation and air bubbles or something, but I couldn't quite remember. Cheers!
mtbtim
Elite Member
And depending on what company you buy it from, the installation recommendations are different. True cool, who have their coolers manufactured at the same place as B&M, say you can mount it any way you want, even upside down and you can make either fitting the inlet or outlet. It doesn't matter.
Here's a question and answer from the True Cool website frequently asked questions area. Frequently Asked Questions | Tru-Cool
How should I mount the oil cooler fittings?
"Fittings can be located up, down or sideways. Combine that flexibility with a compact design and it’s clear that Tru-Cool offers distinct advantages that enable quick, easy design."
Now, is there a chance air could get trapped in there in an upside application. Maybe. Is it going to be enough air to have a huge affect on the cooling efficiency. Possibly. Don't really know.
It's still my theory that the fluid pressure will push most of the air out of the cooler, but I did talk to a guy from B&M that said air can definitely get trapped in the coolers and have a negative effect.
I just find it interesting how one company can say one thing and the other can say the total opposite. Maybe it's just a marketing strategy for True Cool to say their coolers have more installation flexibility than their competition.
Here's another interesting question and answer in regards to bypassing the radiator cooler:
Should I disconnect the radiator in-tank oil cooler when I install a Tru-Cool cooler?
"Do not disconnect the in-tank oil cooler if you can avoid it. Your in-tank cooler offers additional cooling and helps preheat the transmission. In colder climates the in-tank cooler should never be disconnected from the system."
atalarico
Senior Member
Ok, so this is going as I expected. I sprayed coolant everywhere because I kept unscrewing the drain plug until it finally all came gushing out.
The I tried catching as much as I could in the clean bucket but as I was starting to pour it back in I realized that I caught the stuff spraying everywhere and it picked up a ton of crap with it. There's a film of oil on top of the coolant in the bucket. Soooo I'm guessing I have to trash that now, right? I'm going to drain what I just put in too since I let half a quart get away from me before I realized I should stop.
I have 3/4 of a gallon of new pre diluted SLLC coolant, so that'll have to do for now and I won't be able to drive it until the next gallon(s?) come in from Amazon. I forget how much goes in the rad, so I'll just look at my order history.
I tried "rotating" the driver's side rad port by loosening that nut. It wasn't budging. I tightened the nut and it was moveable. Then I realized I was just bending the damn thing, and that's not ok.
So, it's zip tied to the passenger side since that port doesn't rotate on my denso rad.
What a mess. I'm calling it for today. Thanks for the help all. I'm cursed.
The I tried catching as much as I could in the clean bucket but as I was starting to pour it back in I realized that I caught the stuff spraying everywhere and it picked up a ton of crap with it. There's a film of oil on top of the coolant in the bucket. Soooo I'm guessing I have to trash that now, right? I'm going to drain what I just put in too since I let half a quart get away from me before I realized I should stop.
I have 3/4 of a gallon of new pre diluted SLLC coolant, so that'll have to do for now and I won't be able to drive it until the next gallon(s?) come in from Amazon. I forget how much goes in the rad, so I'll just look at my order history.
I tried "rotating" the driver's side rad port by loosening that nut. It wasn't budging. I tightened the nut and it was moveable. Then I realized I was just bending the damn thing, and that's not ok.
So, it's zip tied to the passenger side since that port doesn't rotate on my denso rad.
What a mess. I'm calling it for today. Thanks for the help all. I'm cursed.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Sounds like you need to cleanse the bad juju on your rig. Go sacrifice a chicken, dip a crow's foot into the blood and draw whatever symbols you need to to ward off the evil spirits.
And, go get yourself a tasty high alcohol content beer and forget your truck troubles for a while. Doctor Timmy's orders.
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
My Pep Boys has red and pink coolant. Matches the exact specifications as the toyota stuff.
https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/879899/00053
https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/879901/00053
atalarico
Senior Member
Seriously. Thanks for the orders, doc! A friend,who knows about Toyota wrenching because of his 84 supra, came over, saw the the mess, and promptly handed me a beer. He reminded me it's not my daily, it's Friday, I don't need to get to work tomorrow, and to "know when to fold 'em, know when to walk away, know when to run!"
Did I mention Kenny Rogers is my friend? Jk.
So, yeah, things learned yesterday;
-Using a vice grip on those damn spring clips for the rad hoses isn't a good idea. Long needle nose pliers work way better.
-That butterfly screw for the radiator drain plug isn't hollow on the denso rad like I think the OEM one was. So, don't keep unscrewing it hoping it'll start a little stream to drain into your clean bucket. Oh, and probably leave the radiator cap on when you're draining from the bottom?
Always learning.
The included 5/16 hose does reach from the transmission return line (driver's side) to the cooler with a couple feet to spare. It's OK to use that diameter right? There aren't any complicating issues from using a slightly smaller diameter as far as pressure on the system or anything? I'm going to order 5 feet of 3/8" transmission/oil hose from Amazon for the cooler return to metal hardline on the transmission. Does this stuff look OK to you all? https://www.amazon.com/Derale-13016-Transmission-Engine-Hose/dp/B004XONNTE Oh and since I'm ordering, I'm getting the filter you recommended too.
Thanks!
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fourfive
Senior Member
The cooler is mounted in the middle of my AC condenser with the ports facing the driver side.
I did not bend the L shaped fitting. In the 2 o'clock position, it give me just enough clearance from the lower radiator hose and fan shroud.
Some pics of how I mounted my B&M cooler and how I ran my lines. I mounted it in the middle of the condenser in order to give my ac condenser a little more exposure for airflow coverage. The drawback is that the bar in the middle is blocking some airflow to my B&M cooler. I used the supplied zip ties and as mentioned earlier it is mounted only to the condenser and not radiator + condenser but it is still very secure.
Attachments
atalarico
Senior Member
That is a very nice setup! I'm pretty convinced that our radiators are different though. I unscrewed that nut around the L-shaped port, and that thing wasn't rotating for the life of me. In fact, I could see the inlet port physically moving when I was trying to rotate the L-return port. I didn't want to break that section of the radiator, so I stopped. Once I replaced that nut and was trying to force on the 5/16 hose (yeah I know, too small) the L-shaped port moved toward the driver side. I figured maybe it only rotated with that nut on, so I kept pushing...until I realized I was physically bending the port.
To me it looks like I can see the difference in construction between my radiator's L-return and yours (attached the Amazon product photo). It's too bad though because I *really* like your install and how it's on the driver's side. There's so much less going on over there and more room for it to breathe. Ah well, the zipties have been tightened anyway, so it is where it is now (almost exactly where mtbtim's video shows).
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atalarico
Senior Member
Well shoot...I started looking locally for the parts I'm about to order from Amazon one last time. Local dealership has the un-diluted SLLC coolant for $29/gal (compared to $33 and 3 days shipping even with Prime from Amazon).
It turns out NAPA has bulk transmission oil hose in 3/8" inner diameter (https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NBGH1937/NBGH1937) for $3.33 a foot, which isn't that bad right? NAPA also carries the Magnefine filters for about $10 cheaper than Amazon.
Edited to remove a bunch of crap because I'm an idiot who didn't think to check if there's a NAPA near the dealership that might have all of this in-stock, instead of driving all over town.
Ok, this is happening, dammit!
:crybaby:
It turns out NAPA has bulk transmission oil hose in 3/8" inner diameter (https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NBGH1937/NBGH1937) for $3.33 a foot, which isn't that bad right? NAPA also carries the Magnefine filters for about $10 cheaper than Amazon.
Edited to remove a bunch of crap because I'm an idiot who didn't think to check if there's a NAPA near the dealership that might have all of this in-stock, instead of driving all over town.
Ok, this is happening, dammit!
:crybaby:
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mtbtim
Elite Member
I echo the last statement. You my friend are a great candidate for a cooler. Since you've replaced your radiator, I (and the cooler manufacturer) recommend installing it in series with the radiator per the installation instructions.
The stupid Spam Bot strikes again.
atalarico
Senior Member
Ok, so I'm taking a break because it's almost 100 out, and Euro 2016 and air conditioning are a good break.
I realized I bought the 3/8 filter not realizing that I was hooking it up between the rad and cooler. I already have the 5/16 hose that was included with the cooler attached to the radiator return port because it seemed like a decent enough fit and it was a way to save some money.
I was able to wrestle the 5/16 hose on to the filter ports, but I just want to make sure there won't be any issues with this.
Yes, I'll be replacing the zip ties that secure the hose to the filter with hose clamps, but I just wanted to see how it would look for now.
So far today;
-filled up the rad with a coolant. I got the concentrate this time because it seems like it's more cost effective than the pre-diluted. However, it's definitely a different and darker red color even after I diluted it. I know the pre-diluted stuff I got was SLLC and it seems like the concentrate is only LLC. Are these different? Is it ok that I just mixed a gallon of the LLC (50/50) with the pre mixed SLLC? (UPDATE; yes, they are different, but it's ok if they're mixed. Pink SLLC change interval is 100k and the red LLC is 50k)
-I ran the 3/8 hose to the transmission. I was able to reuse the hose abrasion protectors and hose clamp from the original hose I removed. Removing the hose from the hardline was a pain until I realized I should use a screw driver to push it off instead of pulling it. It seems like these hoses act a bit like Chinese Finger Traps, and pulling just tightens them
I have to add some more abrasion protectors here and there but otherwise it's coming together!
I realized I bought the 3/8 filter not realizing that I was hooking it up between the rad and cooler. I already have the 5/16 hose that was included with the cooler attached to the radiator return port because it seemed like a decent enough fit and it was a way to save some money.
I was able to wrestle the 5/16 hose on to the filter ports, but I just want to make sure there won't be any issues with this.
Yes, I'll be replacing the zip ties that secure the hose to the filter with hose clamps, but I just wanted to see how it would look for now.
So far today;
-filled up the rad with a coolant. I got the concentrate this time because it seems like it's more cost effective than the pre-diluted. However, it's definitely a different and darker red color even after I diluted it. I know the pre-diluted stuff I got was SLLC and it seems like the concentrate is only LLC. Are these different? Is it ok that I just mixed a gallon of the LLC (50/50) with the pre mixed SLLC? (UPDATE; yes, they are different, but it's ok if they're mixed. Pink SLLC change interval is 100k and the red LLC is 50k)
-I ran the 3/8 hose to the transmission. I was able to reuse the hose abrasion protectors and hose clamp from the original hose I removed. Removing the hose from the hardline was a pain until I realized I should use a screw driver to push it off instead of pulling it. It seems like these hoses act a bit like Chinese Finger Traps, and pulling just tightens them
I have to add some more abrasion protectors here and there but otherwise it's coming together!
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mtbtim
Elite Member
Ok, so I'm taking a break because it's almost 100 out, and Euro 2016 and air conditioning are a good break.
I realized I bought the 3/4 filter not realizing that I was hooking it up between the rad and cooler. I already have the 5/16 hose that was included with the cooler attached to the radiator return port because it seemed like a decent enough fit and it was a way to save some money.
I was able to wrestle the 5/16 hose on to the filter ports, but I just want to make sure there won't be any issues with this.
Yes, I'll be replacing the zip ties that secure the hose to the filter with hose clamps, but I just wanted to see how it would look for now.
So far today;
-filled up the rad with a coolant. I got the concentrate this time because it seems like it's more cost effective than the pre-diluted. However, it's definitely a different and darker red color even after I diluted it. I know the pre-diluted stuff I got was SLLC and it seems like the concentrate is only LLC. Are these different? Is it ok that I just mixed a gallon of the LLC (50/50) with the pre mixed SLLC? (UPDATE; yes, they are different, but it's ok if they're mixed. Pink SLLC change interval is 100k and the red LLC is 50k)
-I ran the 3/4 hose to the transmission. I was able to reuse the hose abrasion protectors and hose clamp from the original hose I removed. Removing the hose from the hardline was a pain until I realized I should use a screw driver to push it off instead of pulling it. It seems like these hoses act a bit like Chinese Finger Traps, and pulling just tightens them
I have to add some more abrasion protectors here and there but otherwise it's coming together!
I think you are misspeaking a little here. As far as I know, Magnefine doesn't make a 3/4" filter. That would be a huge fitting. From looking at their website, they sell 3/8" and 1/2". SO, I'm guessing your mistaken with the size. Maybe you bought the 1/2" instead of the recommended 3/8".
I do see a problem with using a 1/2" filter and 5/16" hose because the next time you go to change the filter, it's going to be a pain in ass to get off. You're also adding extra stress to the hose at that point so it may be more inclined to fail there.
You again mentioned using 3/4" line to run to the transmission but I'm guessing you're talking about the outer diameter of the hose and not the inner diameter. This does make it confusing for others reading about what you're doing with your install. I know this might sounds a little knitpicky but I try my best to give accurate information in my posts so I don't end up giving people bad information or steering them in the wrong direction.
With getting the rubber hoses off the metal transmission lines, you can either trying getting a good grip either with your hand or a tool to twist the line to break it free or you can always just cut it off with a razor blade. The tool I'm talking about that I've found works great for removing hoses is a Spark Plug Wire Puller. Here's a link to what I'm talking about:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-51750-..._SR160,160_&psc=1&refRID=79ACA2E92MZAEY4GDT2P
You're getting there dude and kudos for taking the challenge and doing the work on your rig yourself instead of paying somebody else to do it for you.
atalarico
Senior Member
I just can't stop saying 3/4 when I mean 3/8. Good god, this brain of mine. I'm going to edit that post too so as to not cause any confusion.
So, now that I am clear on it being 3/8", it probably won't be a big deal other than a slight pain to change the filter, right? At that point I'm probably going to cut it off to remove it and then just get a 5/16 filter...and as I type this out I realize how absurd this is. I should just go to NAPA, spend $20 and get some more 3/8 hose, more hose clamps, and be done with it.
Still too hot and not in the shade to work out there. This soccer game just won't end either.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Yes, just get the right size hose and be done with it. The 3/8" hose will also come off the radiator fitting and metal transmission line a little easier too since it's a little wider. If you use a little ATF to lubricate the fitting and the inside of the hose before you try to connect, it makes it much easier to slide on.
Also, try to make cleaner cuts of your hoses. One of the lines connected to the magnefine filter is pretty crooked. I used a PVC pipe cutter to cut my hose and it made perfect cuts every time.
Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
Also, try to make cleaner cuts of your hoses. One of the lines connected to the magnefine filter is pretty crooked. I used a PVC pipe cutter to cut my hose and it made perfect cuts every time.
Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
I believe the hose included with the cooler is 11/32. Read that somewhere. Someone called BM and that's what they told them.
I thought 3/8 hose fit pretty good. Obviously on 1/32" larger. Shouldn't be a big deal.
I like these for cutting ANY hose.
Finger Release Ratcheting PVC Cutter
EDIT Didn't see Tim mentioned the PVC cutters. They work very well and are cheap and you can replace the blade.
I thought 3/8 hose fit pretty good. Obviously on 1/32" larger. Shouldn't be a big deal.
I like these for cutting ANY hose.
Finger Release Ratcheting PVC Cutter
EDIT Didn't see Tim mentioned the PVC cutters. They work very well and are cheap and you can replace the blade.
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