About to pull the trigger on replacing my TB&WP- Should I add a exteral Tran Cooler?

[DeTwizzle]

About to pull the trigger on replacing my TB&WP- Should I add a exteral Tran Cooler?

So I called up Toyota's dealership and got a quote of what it would cost for the replacement of the timing belt and water pump. I was quoted $750.

Questions
1) Does that sound reasonable?

2) I have about 165k on the odom, and I'm scared of the "pinkmilkshake", would this be a good time to add the B&M 70268 super cooler?

3) If so, I have read that ppl are running them in lieu with the stock rad, or they are by-passing it altogether. I would prefer to by-pass the rad b/c you advert the possibility of the 'pinkmilkshake". If I was to go this route by by-passing the stock rad, does the new B&M cooler take all the radiator fluid, or does the stock radiator still hold the fluid, you're just by-passing the internal cooler in the stock rad?

4) I hear that by-passing the stock rad can be bad for vehicles in colder climates. I live in CO and sometimes it does get in the negatives, will this present a problem.

I know that there is a ton of info out there on this, so much that it will take days of reading to disseminate my questions. So if some of y'all wouldn't mind chiming in! Thx

 

[T4R_Finally]

Twizzle, google the B&M part number and look at the product details. It mentions something about some technology in it to deal with cold conditions. The whole point of doing this is to avoid the pink milkshake which means you need to cutoff any means of coolant mixing with your tranny fluid. In other words, yes you should bypass the tranny cooler in the radiator.

I'm researching the same things. Haven't made a mod yet and the more I look into it, the more I'm considering keeping it stock and, in lieu of an external tranny cooler, just put a new OEM radiator in it. Haven't made my mind up yet, though.

 

[the great him]

i would do the external trans cooler, and yes completely bypass the rad, eliminate it from the trans system. the B&M has a temp sensor or internal thermostat if you will that will prevent over cooling. i run dual coolers on my rig and can sometimes still see temps of over 200* if im climbing a hill or at low speeds or hauling a load. when im just cruising down the freeway i see temps around 140-150*. so yes it would put a tranny cooler in it. the factory "cooler" is about worthless and imo does nothing other than heat the fluid up to like 170+*. anyhow yeah hope that helps.

 

[4-Ripcord]

750 is pretty dang high for a TB/Wp job. Go to a few other dealer and get some quotes. My service was 600 or 650 or something, and that seems to be the Norm in pricing.

t4r and The kid are right on the B&M coolers, they have a built in cold fluid bypass valve so don't worry about over cooling. I have one and will be living and working in one of the coldest parts of NM for the next few months. Not worried about it.

If you want to avoid the milkshake, don't run it inline with the radiator. That defeats the point of even getting an external cooler. Just bypass it completely. Only run it inline with a radiator if its a new radiator. But if you get a new radiator, there is no need for the external cooler anyway. So you just have to pick which path you want to go there.

 

[SIKHILUXSURF]

i just replaced my old radiator with a koyo unit and ran the inline transcooler with a TRD transcooler externally. when i ran the TRD trans cooler by itself and bypassed the internal radiator cooler it ran to hot in the summer and i saw constant temps of 190-210 even! so i went back to running it in line. i think the pink milkshake is more likely chance if you have an original radiator or neglect your maintenance on your truck. if you keep your servicing intervals and take care of the vehicle you wouldnt have these issues. as most of the trucks that have gotten the pink milkshake or are indanger of it are all running original radiators.

 

[Nelsonmd]

i just replaced my old radiator with a koyo unit and ran the inline transcooler with a TRD transcooler externally. when i ran the TRD trans cooler by itself and bypassed the internal radiator cooler it ran to hot in the summer and i saw constant temps of 190-210 even! so i went back to running it in line. i think the pink milkshake is more likely chance if you have an original radiator or neglect your maintenance on your truck. if you keep your servicing intervals and take care of the vehicle you wouldnt have these issues. as most of the trucks that have gotten the pink milkshake or are indanger of it are all running original radiators.

Was koyo the OES of the radiator? If not, then it is very possible that the koyo is a different design that isn't susceptible to the pink milkshake. I haven't seen anyone tear one apart (probably because none have failed to my knowledge).

 

[DeTwizzle]

Thx 4 the input everyone.
I actually just ordered the B&M 70268, should be here in a few days.
I am actually gonna use Bigfishallday's thread he started.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...oler-transmission-cooler-install-3rd-gen.html

So, I am not super familiar with engines and transmissions. Correct me if I'm wrong.
1)The transmission coolant is a totally separate liquid from the coolant that sits in my radiator (and they are two different types of coolant), but the transmission cooler sits in the radiator, and if/when the transmission cooler rust through and lets the transmission coolant into the radiator to mix with it's coolant, this is when the "pinkmilkshake" happens?
2) Should I wait for the B&M cooler before I do the TB & WP, or is it okay to do it before, and install the cooler after?

 

[Devious81]

$750?!?!?!? That's a bit high. Come to Omaha and I'll do it with all OEM parts including cam/crank seals for $450. As for the trans cooler, I'd say do it. That's on the list of things to do on mine, and it gets just as cold here.

 

[LittleCaesar]

That TB/H20 pump quote is not all that unreasonable for CO. If it is for the second time, why not wait until 180K miles unless something is wrong now.

Make sure the 70268 is in front of the engine fan as much as possible. If I were you, I'd save up another $170 and get a Koyo 1998A radiator along with a new thermostat, upper and lowers hoses, a new cap, and some Toy coolant. Then run the 70268 in line with the ATF cooler in the new radiator.

 

[DeTwizzle]

^I was thinking about doing that. If I bought the Koyo, I wouldn't need the B&M cooler,right. Does the koyo have an internal tranny cooler? If it did, then wouldn't I be kinda over doing it?

And back to my most recent post... an I correct on how a 'pinkmilkshake" happens... it is question (1).

 

[the great him]

750 is pretty dang high for a TB/Wp job. Go to a few other dealer and get some quotes. My service was 600 or 650 or something, and that seems to be the Norm in pricing.

t4r and The kid are right on the B&M coolers, they have a built in cold fluid bypass valve so don't worry about over cooling. I have one and will be living and working in one of the coldest parts of NM for the next few months. Not worried about it.

If you want to avoid the milkshake, don't run it inline with the radiator. That defeats the point of even getting an external cooler. Just bypass it completely. Only run it inline with a radiator if its a new radiator. But if you get a new radiator, there is no need for the external cooler anyway. So you just have to pick which path you want to go there.

im with ripcord here, that is way high, just for sh*ts and giggles i asked a toyota dealer today(not the one my father inlaw works at either, so i wasnt getting any special rate...) how much it would be to replace my timing belt and water pump, they quoted me $571 out the door, and i asked him if i had this done and the cost was more with out them finding other things wrong and fixing them would they honor their quote(i told them i didnt have a lot of money to work with and that would be cutting it close) and they said that they will always honor their quotes, because the job is billed buy "flat rate" not what it actually takes the tech, and parts are a set cost... so yeah. that price of $750 is crazy... but i also had another dealer quote me over the phone today for $960 for the same job... both dealers in the portland metro area, both doing the same job, dont know why such a huge difference!?

 

[T4R_Finally]

^I was thinking about doing that. If I bought the Koyo, I wouldn't need the B&M cooler,right. Does the koyo have an internal tranny cooler? If it did, then wouldn't I be kinda over doing it?

And back to my most recent post... an I correct on how a 'pinkmilkshake" happens... it is question (1).

The koyo 1998 is a direct replacement for an auto trans 3rd gen and yes it has the integrated tranny cooler. I was looking into the external tranny cooler option but decided the stock radiator helped the truck make it 11 years in fine fashion, so replacing it should be sufficient, at least for my purposes. I just want some peace of mind against the pink milkshake. If you live where it gets really hot often and/or you plan on doing a lot of towing or serious off-roading, an extra tranny cooler is probably not a bad idea. I just bought the stuff I need to do a flush and fill today. I'm going to hold on to it and just put in a new koyo first of the year.

Oh, and yes, you are correct about how the milkshake happens. May as well pipe water directly into your tranny. It won't last long when that happens.

 

[SIKHILUXSURF]

Was koyo the OES of the radiator? If not, then it is very possible that the koyo is a different design that isn't susceptible to the pink milkshake. I haven't seen anyone tear one apart (probably because none have failed to my knowledge).

the Koyo is an oem replacement yes. they do not do any performance radiators for our vehicles. so the design is the same. none have failed because you are replacing a 10 plus year old radiator that was put in originally by the factory. you can expect a oem radiator to last 10-15 years. things break. so to me the theory is either people are just cheap bas****s and expect the radiator to last for ever or are not up to date on fluids. i drain and refill my radiator once a year to keep cooling fluids fresh.

 

[z28forlife]

def get a trans cooler. I spent 65 bucks from summitracing and it was at my door in two days. Took about an hour to install and I never have to worry about Pink milkshake again. Great feeling.

 

[Nelsonmd]

the Koyo is an oem replacement yes. they do not do any performance radiators for our vehicles. so the design is the same. none have failed because you are replacing a 10 plus year old radiator that was put in originally by the factory. you can expect a oem radiator to last 10-15 years. things break. so to me the theory is either people are just cheap bas****s and expect the radiator to last for ever or are not up to date on fluids. i drain and refill my radiator once a year to keep cooling fluids fresh.

That's what I figured. I just thought that they might have changeed the design a bit as a response to people losing their transmissions due to coolant leak. It seems like it should be easy enough to fix the design flaw.