Also, do you think this set up will be fine on stock parts? There will be no real off roading, basically mall crawler.
Another Bilstein 5100 question
- Thread starter ATLQuicksilver
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Also, do you think this set up will be fine on stock parts? There will be no real off roading, basically mall crawler.
Also, do you think this set up will be fine on stock parts? There will be no real off roading, basically mall crawler.
echofoot
New member
Running Cooper Discoverer AT3's in 275 flavor with no rubbing.
Most people can run 285 KO2s with minimal trimming from what I gather.
You'll be fine completely stock.
ThinBlueTR4
New member
like he said.
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3wbdriver
New member
MmmYesQuite
New member
you will get reserve rake - 1.75 and 1 inch rear is even. If you want any of the stock rake 1.75 and 1.5 inch spacer
Installed my 5100s @.85" yesterday and got an alignment today. First impressions are very positive and it looks perfect for my tastes. I'll post up some pics when I get a chance.
One thing I got to thinking about is whether or not I got my upper rear shock isolators installed correctly. I got to that point and burned up about 30 minutes searching for a specific answer here but couldn't find it... ended up just installing the bushings/washers they way I thought they should go. Here's how I did it, but please tell me if I need to fix something:
Each rear 5100 came two metal washers and two rubber isolators. I slid one washer on the shock shaft (so that it would cup the isolator) and then slid an isolator down on top of it, with the "centering protrusion" facing up. Then I installed the shock, slid the other isolator down on top so that it's centering protrusion was facing down, and then topped it off with the other washer and nut. Before tightening, I made sure those protrusions on the isolators were in the hole on the shock mount to help isolate the shock shaft from rubbing on metal. Does this sound right, or was I supposed to recycle that bottom mount from the old shock? There wasn't much thread left after I did it that way, so using the old isolator (which seemed a better design) might not fit anyway.
One thing I got to thinking about is whether or not I got my upper rear shock isolators installed correctly. I got to that point and burned up about 30 minutes searching for a specific answer here but couldn't find it... ended up just installing the bushings/washers they way I thought they should go. Here's how I did it, but please tell me if I need to fix something:
Each rear 5100 came two metal washers and two rubber isolators. I slid one washer on the shock shaft (so that it would cup the isolator) and then slid an isolator down on top of it, with the "centering protrusion" facing up. Then I installed the shock, slid the other isolator down on top so that it's centering protrusion was facing down, and then topped it off with the other washer and nut. Before tightening, I made sure those protrusions on the isolators were in the hole on the shock mount to help isolate the shock shaft from rubbing on metal. Does this sound right, or was I supposed to recycle that bottom mount from the old shock? There wasn't much thread left after I did it that way, so using the old isolator (which seemed a better design) might not fit anyway.
Ok, just got off the phone with Bilstein and I apparently did it incorrectly. The good thing is that you aren't supposed to re-use any of the old shock components. The bad news is that the guy said, on our application, the washers should not "cup" the isolator, but rather have the domed side touching the isolator. He said this allows more free articulation of the shock shaft while offroading.
From what I can tell in photos, a number of other people have done it incorrectly too though. I'm wondering if it's worth the hassle to pull them back off to make that change?
Decipher
New member
For those looking for reference, I recently changed my original 5100 setup from one classic setting to another.
My original setting was .85 front, stock rear on factory sized 265/70R17 tires (Falken Wildpeak AT3W)...This setup was great and I loved the ride. It just ended up not being noticeable to anyone but me and I needed the little extra lift for off roading.
Next to a stock 4Runner
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My original setting was .85 front, stock rear on factory sized 265/70R17 tires (Falken Wildpeak AT3W)...This setup was great and I loved the ride. It just ended up not being noticeable to anyone but me and I needed the little extra lift for off roading.
Next to a stock 4Runner
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Decipher
New member
Before shots:
.85F/stock rear 265/70R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W. Spidertrax 1.25” spacers
After Shots:
2.5F/1.5R daystar spacers, BFG KO2 285/70R17 C load, Spidertrax Spacers
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
.85F/stock rear 265/70R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W. Spidertrax 1.25” spacers
After Shots:
2.5F/1.5R daystar spacers, BFG KO2 285/70R17 C load, Spidertrax Spacers
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Decipher
New member
rowdydaoudy
New member
Anyone have advice on the 5100 set up versus PTR13-35140 (FJ TRD set up)?
While I have no personal experience with the FJ kit, it is considered a more premium setup than straight 5100s: new springs, bigger shock bodies, remote reservoir on rear shock, etc. I strongly considered going that route but, in the end, decided against it for the following reasons:
Price - slightly cheaper to go with 5100s, although the FJ kit could be considered a better bargain for what you get. The $200 difference isn’t huge, but it’s still there.
FJ Parts - the parts are different on the FJ kit than the T4R PRO kit. Why is this? The answer is that nobody knows. Springs are different, and all shock numbers are different. If this was an ideal setup for the 4runner, I’d think Toyota would’ve used it. We know Toyota likes to use the same parts across multiple vehicles, so this never sat quite well with me.
Replacements - when you get down to it, both the 5100 and FJ shocks are wear parts. Sometimes they last awhile and sometimes they don’t. When a 5100 goes out, you know you’ll be able to easily find a replacement at a reasonable price. I don’t think this is the case with the FJ shocks, since I’m sure replacements are quite costly and getting your hands on it won’t be as easy. Additionally, the 5100s have a lifetime warranty, whereas the FJ shocks don’t...actually if used on a 4Runner, they probably have no warranty, assuming you’re honest about it.
I wanted about an inch lift on the front so either option would’ve worked for me in that regard, but the 5100 also offers more built in flexibility for lift height.
Either way, I don’t think you can go wrong with the 5100 or the FJ kit. The 5100 just made more sense to me sense to me, and I’ve been very satisfied with their performance so far. Time will tell on durability, but I’m not concerned because they have a good reputation.
That would be a waste of money since you would be buying springs and top hats too. Give the “no spring compressor” method a shot. It’s really a piece of cake, and I don’t see how it would be much more difficult than a bolt in setup. Although I’m fairly experienced with wrenching, I’m meticulous and I take my time doing things. This is one of the few installs I’ve done where everything went exactly as it should (with the exception of the rear shock washers as I mentioned above, but that’s still up for debate). Ask questions here if you run into a snag, but I have no doubt that most people with the proper tools can handle it. This video helps tremendously too - although it’s for a Tacoma, it’s identical: Front Shock Install. The only thing I did differently, is I stuck a 2x4 under the brake rotor so it wouldn’t drop when I lowered the lower control arm. I also disconnected the ABS sensor in case I did something to stretch it.
If I had to do it again, I would completely remove the sway bar, but I was able to do it just by unbolting the end links.
