SwayzeExpress
New member
I guess it was a nice way of saying you have negative rake lol but I agree it looks better this way
Another Bilstein 5100 question
- Thread starter ATLQuicksilver
- Start date
I guess it was a nice way of saying you have negative rake lol but I agree it looks better this way
throttle10
New member
1" spacer or 1.5" rear coil upgrade?
Hi T4R,
I am looking to add Bilstein 5100's all around with the fronts at 1.75" and am torn between a 1" cornfed spacers in the rear or upgrading the stock rear coils to 1.5"
Does anyone have experience and can provide insight into whether there are any pros/cons to either option? Spacer is the cheaper option but I wonder if the coils route has any performance benefits? Will I begin to see a positive rake angle with 1.5" coils in the rear and 1.75" lift up front?
Hi T4R,
I am looking to add Bilstein 5100's all around with the fronts at 1.75" and am torn between a 1" cornfed spacers in the rear or upgrading the stock rear coils to 1.5"
Does anyone have experience and can provide insight into whether there are any pros/cons to either option? Spacer is the cheaper option but I wonder if the coils route has any performance benefits? Will I begin to see a positive rake angle with 1.5" coils in the rear and 1.75" lift up front?
3wbdriver
New member
If you plan to off road it go with the rear coils. If you're only after looks the spacers will be fine. If you use the coils you will see almost zero difference from your current positive rake at the settings you describe, because you will be lifting both ends about the same amount.
YellowSnow
Banned
Just do the 5100/wheelers lift and be done with it. Spacers are garbage, and provide nothing for performance and ride quality. The way your 4R drives before/after is night and day, and the truck sits perfectly IMO in regards to rake. Here’s my Trail next to a stock TRD Pro for reference. 5100 front and back, T1/T13 Wheelers springs, front 5100 set to zero. I’m easily an inch to 1.5 inches higher than the Pro:
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Would swapping out springs alone (Dobinsons 238 & 599) front and rear for a mild lift affect ride much? or would shocks (5100s) also be necessary to increase firmness/reduce nose dive under braking?
I don't mind a bit of rake since I'll be towing a fishing boat a few times a month.
I don't mind a bit of rake since I'll be towing a fishing boat a few times a month.
I installed Dobinson C59-300 front coils last week. Wound up with about 1 1/2" of front lift. We like the leveled look now but not so much the ride. I think the truck feels more like a boat going down the road and not as stable/planted as before. Seem's to lean more on high speed curves. Will definitely be looking at adding Bilstein's in the near future.
OatBunch
New member
I just installed a full set of 5100s with Dobinsons 300 and 599 springs about 3 weeks ago. Completely changed the feel of the truck. Noticeably less body roll while cornering, and an even bigger reduction in the notorious nose dive under breaking. Bumps and potholes are less jarring now as well, so I expect a marked improvement off-road.
I think you may want to consider upgrading the shocks while you are in there. Since I upgraded both at the same time, I wouldn't be able to tell what part made the bigger difference, but I would bet it was more the valving of the shocks than the spring rate. Plus, why take the suspension apart more than once if you don't have to?
Completely agree! Now that I know what I know I should have installed the 5100's and left the stock springs.
91324
New member
Finally got around to installing my Bilsteins 5100s all around.
Fronts set to 1.75”. Rear has 1” Cornfed spacers.
Love the stance and it suits my needs as this is my daily driver that will only see light trails (no rock crawling).
Hopefully this helps people on the fence about what setting to use or how it’ll look.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Fronts set to 1.75”. Rear has 1” Cornfed spacers.
Love the stance and it suits my needs as this is my daily driver that will only see light trails (no rock crawling).
Hopefully this helps people on the fence about what setting to use or how it’ll look.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
SoCalRunner
New member
2inch rear lift
If i lift the rear with a 2" spring, will the OEM shocks be long enough? I dont have enough money to do springs and shocks at the same time,so i'm hoping to get the lift first.
thanks.
If i lift the rear with a 2" spring, will the OEM shocks be long enough? I dont have enough money to do springs and shocks at the same time,so i'm hoping to get the lift first.
thanks.
Finally got around to installing my Bilsteins 5100s all around.
Fronts set to 1.75”. Rear has 1” Cornfed spacers.
Love the stance and it suits my needs as this is my daily driver that will only see light trails (no rock crawling).
Hopefully this helps people on the fence about what setting to use or how it’ll look.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Exactly the look I'm going for on my white TRDOR. What steps/sliders are those?
91324
New member
I bought these from a fellow T4Rorg member. They're pretty sweet - you can remove the steps to turn the rails into sliders, somewhat - they don't really protrude from the side of the 4Runner too much to be able to protect it a lot, but it looks good.
Rails: N-FAB Rock Rail (Black) - T104RKR4R | 4wheelparts.com
Steps: https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/n-fab-rock-rail-detachable-steps/7560
YellowSnow
Banned
Those are not sliders...they are nerf bars.
barker916
New member
5100's 2.5 / 1.5 with stock 20's
Hey everyone,
So my 2010 4Runner LE's X-REAS decided I need a new suspension. Going with 5100's all around, my problem is confirming if I have/need to stick with 1.75 / 1" with my stock 20's or can I go with the 2.5 /1.5 knowing once I have the $$$ ( month or two) I will switch 17 or 18's and new tires. I would rather start with rims and tires but my hand is being forced.
Just want to make sure no issues going with 2.5 front and 1.5 rear ( besides looking goofy on Pizza cutters ). Dont wanna spend extra $$ going from 1.75 to the 2.5 two months later if I dont have too.
I've read all the threads but not a lot for people sticking with the stock 20's and full 5100 settings and the 1.5 spacer, which may be for a reason I am unaware of.
Thanks in advance.
Hey everyone,
So my 2010 4Runner LE's X-REAS decided I need a new suspension. Going with 5100's all around, my problem is confirming if I have/need to stick with 1.75 / 1" with my stock 20's or can I go with the 2.5 /1.5 knowing once I have the $$$ ( month or two) I will switch 17 or 18's and new tires. I would rather start with rims and tires but my hand is being forced.
Just want to make sure no issues going with 2.5 front and 1.5 rear ( besides looking goofy on Pizza cutters ). Dont wanna spend extra $$ going from 1.75 to the 2.5 two months later if I dont have too.
I've read all the threads but not a lot for people sticking with the stock 20's and full 5100 settings and the 1.5 spacer, which may be for a reason I am unaware of.
Thanks in advance.
J0HN_R1
New member
There would be no foreseeable issues.
You could save yourself some $ though by just buying new tires for the factory 20's (paint them gloss black or gunmetal), & getting a set of SpiderTrax spacers to make them flush.
:bluejump:
J0HN_R1
New member
Lift install complete...
Front = Bilstein 5100 set @ 2.5" (max)
Rear = Bilstein B8 650lb 1" lift springs
Wheels = Fuel Vector D600 18x9" / 1mm Off-set
Tires = Goodyear DuraTrac LT285/65/18 (studded)
* yes, they rub slightly on the mudflaps and the front bumper where it meets the fenderliner (between 9 & 10 o'clock on the front tire).
Front = Bilstein 5100 set @ 2.5" (max)
Rear = Bilstein B8 650lb 1" lift springs
Wheels = Fuel Vector D600 18x9" / 1mm Off-set
Tires = Goodyear DuraTrac LT285/65/18 (studded)
* yes, they rub slightly on the mudflaps and the front bumper where it meets the fenderliner (between 9 & 10 o'clock on the front tire).
SoFloT4Run
New member
Front = Bilstein 5100 set @ 2.5" (max)
Rear = Bilstein B8 650lb 1" lift springs
Wheels = Fuel Vector D600 18x9" / 1mm Off-set
Tires = Goodyear DuraTrac LT285/65/18 (studded)
* yes, they rub slightly on the mudflaps and the front bumper where it meets the fenderliner (between 9 & 10 o'clock on the front tire).
looks great! would you mind sharing your hub to fender measurements on both the front and rear?
thanks
barker916
New member
Much appreciated JOHN_R1. I have 4 Wheel Parts install this for me, I just called and asked about the 1.5 spacer for the rear and he said i dint need it. Which is strange to tell a customer who wants to spend money no. He said with 5100's all the way around and 2.5 in the front it will be level and good to go. Said I only need the space if I'm going to be hauling a lot of weight in the back.
*should I just order it and have them install it anyways or will it give the the factory nose down rake ( which I hate ). I just dont wanna keep going back to fix things I could have just done in the beginning.
16RedRunner
New member
You put 5100's set at 2.5 in front with nothing in rear no way will that be level.Here is mine 5100 all the way around front set at 1.75 and 3/4 cornfed spacer in rear.Even at 1.75 with nothing in the rear the front sat higher than rear.
